(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,165 posts - Hot topic!
  • 297 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by FatPanda
  • Topic is favorited by 128 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,031 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20200712_130505 (resized).jpg
C315D1CA-1456-4EA2-9693-8B2C7602D819 (resized).jpeg
4960B26E-91E5-4C2B-88B3-E510D46F7D35 (resized).jpeg
C4D89FD1-DBB9-4BD5-B616-F7860B61ADD1 (resized).jpeg
13DDFAED-9A25-4F48-9998-6C9C37F1793E (resized).jpeg
7FF6689A-3238-4BD2-8047-FE636437087B (resized).jpeg
paint (resized).JPG
ebd paint (resized).jpg
lime-gelato (resized).jpg
IMG_20191014_134829 (resized).jpg
received_211879930150217 (resized).jpeg
received_228371625055606 (resized).jpeg
received_558647451726706 (resized).jpeg
received_591598881560598 (resized).jpeg
received_695042861347430 (resized).jpeg
EBD Homepage 2020.jpg

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 3165 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 64.
#3051 53 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Getting ready to pull the pop bumpers. Is there a guide on removal ? Any big-time gotcha's ??

Pretty basic. Remove the switches. There will be a small plate were the switch screws mate to on the opposite side of the bumper base. Be careful not to lose them. Pull bumper caps off. Remove the 4 screws under the pf from the base and pull out. Oh I forgot, remove the 2 screws from the coil bracket to remove the coils then replace the brackets and screws to keep all together.

#3052 53 days ago

Having some issues after my playfield swap. Initially, I wasn't getting controlled playfield lamps or solenoids. I found a loose wire in J3 on the SDB. Fixed that and then accidentally put the connector on incorrectly. It had been replaced in the past and it was in 2 pieces, not a full 25 pin housing. I misaligned the lower portion and pins 12 and 13 kinda melted. Fixed that and it seemed to work fine. Got solenoids and insert lights back. Then I installed the Bally LED flicker eliminator boards from Comet and since then they don't work. Without the flicker boards, I get no controlled lamps on the playfield and the light that belongs to the SEB doesn't light either (it is incandescent). With the anti flicker boards installed a few lamps are always lit but they still don't function properly. I'm not sure what happened or what I may have done wrong. Verified the lamp bus wire is making continuity from the rectifier all the way to the shoot again light. Any tips on where to start?

#3053 53 days ago

Hi all!
I'm planning to make my harness more reliable and change all the board connectors.... Is there a list somewhere with all the 0.1 and 0.156 connectors needed for the job? I could count but I'm lazy and afraid to miss one

#3054 53 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Having some issues after my playfield swap. Initially, I wasn't getting controlled playfield lamps or solenoids. I found a loose wire in J3 on the SDB. Fixed that and then accidentally put the connector on incorrectly. It had been replaced in the past and it was in 2 pieces, not a full 25 pin housing. I misaligned the lower portion and pins 12 and 13 kinda melted. Fixed that and it seemed to work fine. Got solenoids and insert lights back. Then I installed the Bally LED flicker eliminator boards from Comet and since then they don't work. Without the flicker boards, I get no controlled lamps on the playfield and the light that belongs to the SEB doesn't light either (it is incandescent). With the anti flicker boards installed a few lamps are always lit but they still don't function properly. I'm not sure what happened or what I may have done wrong. Verified the lamp bus wire is making continuity from the rectifier all the way to the shoot again light. Any tips on where to start?

It may be a longshot in your case, but I've had some quality control issues on the Bally anti-flicker boards myself. Nothing I couldn't fix, but it took time to figure out the problems were with the anti-flicker boards themselves vs. issues with my lamp board/wiring.

On one set of boards, I had one that had incomplete solder on one of the header pins (picture below). That was causing one of my control lamps to never light.

On another set of boards, I had another incomplete solder example on two of the header pins resulting in two control lamps never lighting.

Using a third set of boards one time, and I had a series of control lamps continue to flicker as if the anti-flicker boards weren't installed. Some lights worked great, but a group didn't. Traced that group of lights....they all went back to anti-flicker board #3, the last in the chain for power. The jumper wire provided with the anti-flicker PCBs had a busted pin in the 2-pin connector. Re-crimped on a new pin, worked like a champ.

In hindsight now that I'm thinking about it, I've bought and used three different sets of the Bally anti-flicker kits and all three had issues that I had to rework! Still a good, inexpensive product that I'd use again, despite the quality issues I've encountered.

IMG_7617 (resized).jpg
#3055 53 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

It may be a longshot in your case, but I've had some quality control issues on the Bally anti-flicker boards myself. Nothing I couldn't fix, but it took time to figure out the problems were with the anti-flicker boards themselves vs. issues with my lamp board/wiring.
On one set of boards, I had one that had incomplete solder on one of the header pins (picture below). That was causing one of my control lamps to never light.
On another set of boards, I had another incomplete solder example on two of the header pins resulting in two control lamps never lighting.
Using a third set of boards one time, and I had a series of control lamps continue to flicker as if the anti-flicker boards weren't installed. Some lights worked great, but a group didn't. Traced that group of lights....they all went back to anti-flicker board #3, the last in the chain for power. The jumper wire provided with the anti-flicker PCBs had a busted pin in the 2-pin connector. Re-crimped on a new pin, worked like a champ.
In hindsight now that I'm thinking about it, I've bought and used three different sets of the Bally anti-flicker kits and all three had issues that I had to rework! Still a good, inexpensive product that I'd use again, despite the quality issues I've encountered.[quoted image]

I'll check them out, but without them installed, I get zero controlled lamps and I believe that is the issue I need to fix.

#3056 52 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

I'll check them out, but without them installed, I get zero controlled lamps and I believe that is the issue I need to fix.

Did you verify the voltage on the switched supply? Check all fuses with meter not visually.

#3057 52 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Did you verify the voltage on the switched supply? Check all fuses with meter not visually.

All fuses check out fine. Not sure where to get a good reading on the voltage. I have an auto ranging meter.

#3058 52 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

All fuses check out fine. Not sure where to get a good reading on the voltage. I have an auto ranging meter.

Test points on rectifier board. The trace wire that is soldered to all of the socket mounting brackets is the hot side of the circuit. You can measure between that trace wire and the cabinet ground braid or test point grounds on the boards.

#3059 52 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Test points on rectifier board. The trace wire that is soldered to all of the socket mounting brackets is the hot side of the circuit. You can measure between that trace wire and the cabinet ground braid or test point grounds on the boards.

Tested using the cab ground braid and the GND point on the rectifier and both ways, I'm getting between 1.8 and 2.5 vdc jumping around. I know that's not sufficient to get the lamps going.

#3060 52 days ago

Start with the rectifier board. Unplug J1 thru J4. Measure all test points. Values are on pinwiki.com

The j3 connector at solenoid driver has connections to that board and you probably sent voltages to critical areas and fried something. maybe the lamp driver or a rectifier bridge?

If rectifier board passes for to the solenoid driver test points and so on. Don't forget to plus J1 thru 4 back in. Power down before undoing or reconnecting anything.

#3061 51 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Start with the rectifier board. Unplug J1 thru J4. Measure all test points. Values are on pinwiki.com
The j3 connector at solenoid driver has connections to that board and you probably sent voltages to critical areas and fried something. maybe the lamp driver or a rectifier bridge?
If rectifier board passes for to the solenoid driver test points and so on. Don't forget to plus J1 thru 4 back in. Power down before undoing or reconnecting anything.

Thanks for the starting point. Found that BR1 was shorted. Replaced that and controlled lamps are back.

#3062 51 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Thanks for the starting point. Found that BR1 was shorted. Replaced that and controlled lamps are back.

Awesome

#3063 51 days ago

Hi,
Figured I would do a two week update on my COVID-19 project.

First ,a big thank you callout to Rich aka Lovef2k. What a great guy and a great help to the pinball community. He has gone way above and beyond in helping me/ others in putting back together these classic treasures. Thank you Rich!!!

So two weeks ago, bought the game, with parts “in the box”. First fire up resulted in “zilch” !

Two weeks latter , after replacing 3 boards, 9 coils, re pinned a few connectors, replaced about 30 incandescent light bulbs, rebuilt the 3 drop target assemblies ( what a PITA they are),
found 3 wiring hacks, and cut every one of my fingers on those damn 555 light bulb sockets, she is up and running. !

I still have four insert lights giving me a problem. Two are sockets, two are transistors on the light board. I also need to do all the nice to do / cosmetic stuff.

What a cool game. Love the call outs. The two player stripes/ solids feature makes this an ultimate “bar/ buddy/drinking” game. The “memory” feature is great (but don’t get me started on rebuilding that f$&@ing 7 drop).

Thanks again to Lovef2k. More to come !
Sully

978912B7-49BE-484F-BCA0-0D2D86B4C13F (resized).jpeg8F72E9D3-F3C9-4D89-B468-89FC601B296B (resized).jpeg0C51E3E8-B0FF-4B55-A50D-4C4710B8E061 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpg

#3064 49 days ago

I'm in the re-assembly phase after installing a hardtop and I'm running into a few things that don't seem right on my EBD. Here's one....my game has this stud at this location. It seems like an odd placement for a stud....shouldn't this be another blue plastic post? What do you guys have at this location?

IMG_8266a (resized).jpg
#3065 49 days ago

Here's another one....my original playfield had a hole where the red X is and this shorter (1.5") ball guide wire installed in it behind the upper left flipper. According to the EBD manual, that ball guide wire is part #M-121-93 and is 2.5" long (and would go in the holes where the red arrows are).

Anyone know where I can find the proper ball guide wire part #M-121-93? I can't find it by that part number, and looking at wire form after wire form at Marcos and other places is like looking for a needle in a haystack!

IMG_8267a (resized).jpg
#3066 49 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

my game has this stud at this location. It seems like an odd placement for a stud....

Use the image gallery in this thread to look up reference photos. Metal post is used.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well?gallery#g

#3067 49 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I'm in the re-assembly phase after installing a hardtop and I'm running into a few things that don't seem right on my EBD. Here's one....my game has this stud at this location. It seems like an odd placement for a stud....shouldn't this be another blue plastic post? What do you guys have at this location?[quoted image]

I just noticed this myself yesterday. My game also has metal post. I figured smaller, so as not to interfere with targets/drop and still prevent a ball trap.

#3068 49 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Here's another one....my original playfield had a hole where the red X is and this shorter (1.5") ball guide wire installed in it behind the upper left flipper. According to the EBD manual, that ball guide wire is part #M-121-93 and is 2.5" long (and would go in the holes where the red arrows are).
Anyone know where I can find the proper ball guide wire part #M-121-93? I can't find it by that part number, and looking at wire form after wire form at Marcos and other places is like looking for a needle in a haystack!
[quoted image]

Both things are correct. the hole with the red x is not. But the flipper should hide it.

#3069 48 days ago

Getting close to moving the harness over to the new pf. What's the call on moving the bulbs? Looks easiest just to keep them all attached to the harness and slide them all over in one shot. Any reason(s) not to do that?? Tnx..

1 week later
#3070 38 days ago

These are the screws that hold down the plastics on my EBD. They're about 1/2" or so in length and have this sort of flattened pan head. I've seen them on other machines so I know they're out there. Thing is, I cannot for the life of me find 'em. Anyone have any idea who might have these in stock? I only need one but would certainly pick up a handful for future projects. Tnx!!

screw1 (resized).jpgscrew2 (resized).jpg
#3071 37 days ago

I have seen the flat top screws on some games but have not seen them new anywhere. I just use #6 by ½ inch pan head screws since that's what I have seen on most games.

#3072 37 days ago

It’s a flattened truss head. They were used on early games mostly like Playboy but I found some on later games. They are not available. I just use a regular truss head like used in most Bally games after 1980.

#3073 37 days ago

My EBDLE refurb is almost finished. I need a few pieces if anyone has these leftover after a restore. I prefer used stuff since I know alot of collectors buy all new stuff and generally have things laying around they don't need. Could use the following:

1 orange pop ring
1 pop cap (the 2 that I have do have the screw holes so it doesn't need to have it's little tabs)
2 blue lane guides
Right inlane clear plastic (could also use a left side and flip it over)
1 metal bell spacer (smaller one)
The large upper right plastic that covers the 8 ball drop target and the weird curved clear plastic under it. I could also use the other clear ones if anyone has unbroken ones, but they seem rare.

PM me if you can help me finish this baby out. Thanks.

RC

#3074 37 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

These are the screws that hold down the plastics on my EBD. They're about 1/2" or so in length and have this sort of flattened pan head. I've seen them on other machines so I know they're out there. Thing is, I cannot for the life of me find 'em. Anyone have any idea who might have these in stock? I only need one but would certainly pick up a handful for future projects. Tnx!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

#8 x ½" truss head.

#3075 37 days ago

For top plastics I have #6 truss head screws.
IMG_0001[1] (resized).JPG

#3076 35 days ago

Tnx guys, Marco carries #6 Truss heads. The old boards a mess but am enjoying the process..

#3077 34 days ago

Replacing all 3 pop bumper bodies (yellowed, cracked w/ missing clips). Obviously have to transfer the bulb + contacts. They seem pretty well wedged in. What's the approach on these? Just firm pressure from the contacts side in?

pop1 (resized).jpgpop2 (resized).jpg
#3078 34 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Replacing all 3 pop bumper bodies (yellowed, cracked w/ missing clips). Obviously have to transfer the bulb + contacts. They seem pretty well wedged in. What's the approach on these? Just firm pressure from the contacts side in?

Yes - mine were pretty tight as well when I replaced the bodies but they do pop out with enough pressure.

#3079 34 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I have seen the flat top screws on some games but have not seen them new anywhere. I just use #6 by ½ inch pan head screws since that's what I have seen on most games.

Almost all the screws Bally used back then were "custom".

That's why you won't find exact copies of them mass-produced.

When I reproduced the coin door carriage bolts, I reverse-engineered them from scratch. I could have just went with standard carriage bolts but Bally used a larger radius on the heads. The same goes for the rest of the screws. I have found Phillips head screws that are close enough for me but they aren't 100% "exact" and you never will find 100% exact unless you have them custom-made.

When I replace the screws I go all-stainless.

#3080 34 days ago

Working on a PF swap for a friend. He sent along his (what I know) IPB repro playfield. It doesn't have any of the holes drilled or marked, other than the large major holes. No post holes. On the back it's the same, no mounting holes marked.
Right now my plan is to sand the back of the original playfield and clamp it on top of the new playfield with a layer of heavy paper in between and drill the holes that way. On the back I'll probably trace the back of the old PF and mark the mounting holes.
If anyone has a better solution I'm open to hearing it.
It was a shock to me when I went to install the T nuts after taking it out of it's box and realized nothing was drilled.

#3081 34 days ago
Quoted from izzy:

Working on a PF swap for a friend. He sent along his (what I know) IPB repro playfield. It doesn't have any of the holes drilled or marked, other than the large major holes. No post holes. On the back it's the same, no mounting holes marked.
Right now my plan is to sand the back of the original playfield and clamp it on top of the new playfield with a layer of heavy paper in between and drill the holes that way. On the back I'll probably trace the back of the old PF and mark the mounting holes.
If anyone has a better solution I'm open to hearing it.
It was a shock to me when I went to install the T nuts after taking it out of it's box and realized nothing was drilled.

I believe HEP does the drill through method on both sides. I'd mark the backside of the old PF with a paint pen on the original underside holes, that way when you drill the underside you don't use any of the topside drill through holes. Hopefully that makes sense.

#3082 34 days ago

Thx. i'm going to dimple the backside from the pattern I make. Most of the holes on the back don't go through, but are mounting holes.

#3083 33 days ago

I use a nice machinists scale and a pair of digital calipers and spot the holes as close to perfection as possible.

You won't get that laying an old playfield on top and spotting the holes.

#3084 33 days ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Almost all the screws Bally used back then were "custom".
That's why you won't find exact copies of them mass-produced.
When I reproduced the coin door carriage bolts, I reverse-engineered them from scratch. I could have just went with standard carriage bolts but Bally used a larger radius on the heads. The same goes for the rest of the screws. I have found Phillips head screws that are close enough for me but they aren't 100% "exact" and you never will find 100% exact unless you have them custom-made.
When I replace the screws I go all-stainless.

Hey Jeff, I'm with ya on the stainless. I do the same. Your coin door trim bolts are the bomb. I like the fact that there are no markings on the heads and I buff the tops with a Dremel and they look like chrome after.

So was the small screw used on the rails to hold plastics pan head or trusd head?

#3085 32 days ago

It's a "modified truss" head. I have stainless replacements for all the playfield screws including those. I had some of them custom-made as far as the lengths but not the crappy hand-ground heads some of the playfield screws have. The heads of my stainless machine screws match the stainless sheet metal screws used so everything looks the same.

#3086 27 days ago

Finally got everything working!!!

Original playfield, play field protector, new NOS plastics, new posts, new Apron, new legs, all new boards ( except talk board), new drop targets, new bumper plastics.

Now do I keep or sell to fund another project hmmm!

8105A948-FD6F-48F1-AE43-19802ECA4233 (resized).jpeg6D184601-00FF-415E-A623-00B5AA6203E8 (resized).jpeg7742CB5D-B054-4D43-A1A0-5A40B412F94E (resized).jpegD5A886A3-FD8F-4466-9EFC-CC32ED1275FD (resized).jpegFF1A6153-C33D-4D9C-AC30-3687C584F7E1 (resized).jpeg
#3087 27 days ago

Beautiful! Keep it! One of the best games Bally ever made.

#3088 27 days ago

Very nice !

#3089 27 days ago

About to toss the topside hardware (screws, bolts) in to the polisher. I've used the walnut media in the past w/ a bit of Flitz. What's the collective experience on how long to tumble?

#3090 27 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

About to toss the topside hardware (screws, bolts) in to the polisher. I've used the walnut media in the past w/ a bit of Flitz. What's the collective experience on how long to tumble?

Small stuff like hardware should only take overnight.

#3091 24 days ago

Putting up my 81 EBD. Game plays as it should. Nice cabinet, perfect backglass, worn playfield. Comes with a CPR Gold playfield, not installed. A second oem? backglass i'm told, can't tell the difference. New plastic set and new inline drop targets. Located in North East PA. $3500 no trades at this time.

J.

#3092 24 days ago

Hey guys, having an issue on my EBD(original version). It has the rottendog power supply in the cabinet. The primary issue with the game was that the bridge rectifier was bad on the Rottendog. I went ahead and replaced it and the game fires right up and played. However, after maybe an hour of being on, the bridge rectifier is hot enough to cook eggs on. The insert lamps also begin to dim at this point. I'm thinking the rottendogs single bridge gets overwhelmed by all the insert lamps? Any suggestions are welcome, thanks!

#3093 21 days ago

I'm trying to carefully note which fasteners go where as I'm depopulating the front side. I noticed that there was never a fastener in the marked hole on our game. What belongs there? I'm guessing a #6 wood screw into a star post? Tnx..

missing fastener (resized).jpg
#3094 21 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

I noticed that there was never a fastener in the marked hole on our game. What belongs there?

The image gallery at the top of club threads are a valuable resource, you'll find some playfield pictures with your answer

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well?gallery#g

Here's an example (zoom in):
https://images.pinside.com/e/41/bb/e41bb86424bfacb3831668288a2a52d554677dc3.jpg

#3095 21 days ago

Tnx Quench ! Didn't know those pics were up there. Answers that question..

#3096 21 days ago

Finally found a Susan B. Anthony 1 for 5 plays coin insert. I have the wrong coin mechanism but at least it looks better. It’s on free play anyway.

A0B09690-71EC-4BF9-9163-CC74599CED84 (resized).jpeg
#3097 21 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Finally found a Susan B. Anthony 1 for 5 plays coin insert. I have the wrong coin mechanism but at least it looks better. It’s on free play anyway.
[quoted image]

Why did it have to be a 5 game? Is the coin slot itself for SBA? There is a slight difference

#3098 21 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Why did it have to be a 5 game? Is the coin slot itself for SBA? There is a slight difference

I don’t have the correct slot, yet. I just figured if it’s a quarter a play, then 5 plays for a dollar is a slight bargain. I’ve found plenty of 6 plays for a SBA dollar. The 5 plays seems to be pretty hard to find. Most of the usually sites are out of stock. Planetary Pinball had them in stock. My coin mechs are only .25 cent mechs, but I just ordered a SBA mechanism off of Big Daddy’s. I’ll need a few more parts if I want it to actually work.

#3099 21 days ago

Here's a little twist that I haven't seen publicized to date. There's a mini-post just to the right of the upper ball guides. On my '84 machine, it is a non-thru-hole screw type (with no sign of damage at/about the area). On surveying the same area on the CPR board, this appears to be a thru-hole for a T-nut. Anyone else seen this? How did you resolve it? Imagine a # 6 or 8 threaded mini-post does the job but wanted to hear what others have done. Tnx..

mini-post new pf 5 (resized).jpgmini-post old pf 3 (resized).jpgmini-post old pf 4 (resized).jpg
#3100 20 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I don’t have the correct slot, yet. I just figured if it’s a quarter a play, then 5 plays for a dollar is a slight bargain. I’ve found plenty of 6 plays for a SBA dollar. The 5 plays seems to be pretty hard to find. Most of the usually sites are out of stock. Planetary Pinball had them in stock. My coin mechs are only .25 cent mechs, but I just ordered a SBA mechanism off of Big Daddy’s. I’ll need a few more parts if I want it to actually work.

.

It's funny that I see the SBA slot sometimes on the far right slot and sometimes the center slot on Bally games. I think the right is actually correct because of the plastic containers inside the coin box being 2 sizes. If you were to use the center slot, your SBA's would land in the .25 bin. Stern, on the other hand has 3 plastics bins with a smaller one that fits in the center and the .25 bins on either side. Besides the SBA coin mech you will need to remove the small set screw at the end of the coin shute. Also you will need the metal coin slot that has the longer opening or maybe file the .25 a little longer. Finally there is a small metal diverter at the opening where the coin falls from the shute just before hitting the trip wire. It's just a flat piece of metal, very small. The .25 opening has it also but it is offset to prevent a SBA or larger coin from passing through. Check your door for that as it may already be in there.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 157.00
$ 799.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
From: $ 10.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
There are 3165 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 64.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside