GI sockets white and switched lamps green or all of then white?

White for gi and a mixture of white and green for controlled lamps.

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Hmm, maybe yours was in the transition phase from white to green sockets. Do you have a single fuse or triple fuse block under the PF?

There is a single fuse near the right flipper mech.

I think it was an exchanged playfield...
Sometimes, in repair shops back in the day you would have
up to three or more EBD that needed service... people would
swap ( whole playfields ) here and there... in order to get one or two out of the shop
ASAP.
Sometimes, a game would come in with a heavily vandalized cabinet but the playfield
is still good... You end up swapping this for that etc,etc,etc.
I had to do three High Speeds... When done, one "A" game, one "B" game (went to the auction)
and one leftover junk parts ( cabinet went into the trash ).

I agree with @vec-tor. AFIAK, only the original EBD had the single fuse. But in order to swap a classic ebd pf into an LE cab, some minor wiring mods had to be done for the switched lamps behind the back glass due to the cab configuration. If you have an LE manual, I would compare some random wire colors from the pf to the schematics and see if they match up. If not you might want to buy a classic manual as well.

Assuming pcbs are still (now and forever) unobtainium, I'm assuming my best option forward to rid myself of the awful '81 wedge setup for controlled lights is to just swap for bayonets.. Yes? Any suggestions where would be best to buy enough in bulk, for a reasonable price?

Pinball Resource. I just ordered new bayonet sockets and wire. Sockets are part # A2916, .92 each, and the wire is on the Tools/Supplies tab under Material. Part # is MAT-PF-BRAID, .20 per foot. I ordered 20 feet, I have no idea how much I'll need.
You should also order one each of the A2913 and A2914 laydown sockets. The A2913 goes right underneath the upper drop target bank reset coil, and the A2914 goes under the star rollover on the left side.

That's great info. Are the pbr sockets single or double solder tabs? What gauge is the trace wire?

Could the pcbs be re-engineered by the folks over at https://pinballreplacementparts.com?

I used their pcbs for my Meteor and love them.

EDIT: I shot them a message asking if they would be interested in reproducing the lamp boards.

Probably not enough demand for them to make it worth making them....

You have to add new connectors to your wiring harness anyway which is enough work. I think once you have bayonets in there and LEDs you won't have to think about it anymore. Plus with the PCBs you still need to used wedge base lamps.

Thank you!

Would A2914 from Pinball Resource be the best choice for GI lamps under the sling shots? Or maybe A2915 or A4762?

http://pbresource.com/sockets.html

Back in the day when I was doing multiple EBD playfield transfers, I would
redo the main power buss to the lamp sockets so as you only needed
to use a hex head driver. You just unscrewed the screw that held the lamp socket
in place... One then had an easy access to the #555 lamp with out having
to bend the lamp socket back and forth.

The A2916 has two tabs, you do not use the "B" tab (click on thumbnail pic). Wire gauge is the same as the old wire.

Oops, I forgot the G.I. sockets. For those, you'll want to use the A1363 flush mount socket. They have to be stapled in place.

I also found something when rebuilding the pops that I had not seen before. When you remove the bottom part of the bumper assembly from the coil, the metal and fiber yokes just fall off the end of the plunger. On my EBD the end of the plunger by the yokes has been pounded by what must have been the round end of a ball peen hammer and the metal and fiber yokes have been crushed together and will not come off the plunger. I had to find new plungers.

This looks like factory work. Has anyone else noticed this?

Thanks for the info.

Heard back from the folks at pinballreplacementparts.com and they have advised that they have had enough interest in these EBD lamp pcbs that they classified the project as "very possible". They indicated they have access to a set of boards for exact measurements. Fingers crossed.

Yep. Those yokes have a raised little flared section near the opening that the plunger fits into. They are pretty tight. Put the plunger in a vise and hit the yoke with a hammer and it will pop off. These are different from the ones on most Bally 80’s games.

Random question but was there a 1981 EBD variant that had a bluish tone on the eight ball? My cab was clearly black/gray but I noticed the CPR glass is decidedly bluer and the Shay glass is more like my original.. Anyone know for sure?

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You have to remember... every ones copies are going to be shades deferent than the OEM
lot. What ever computer copier software skews the colors a bit...
I saw three different shades of the moon on Williams Space Shuttle pinball backglass.
Apparently who ever was doing the backglasses for the game Space Shuttle, had
different values of red/orange/yellow pigment. The CMYK thing, I guess from
different manufacture shops. Or, the pigments were running low and were being extended
with thinners.

Oh I know that. I thought the same but the last bluish one I saw the guy claimed to be OEM and purchased in the 80s so I wasn't sure.

I’m so glad you posted this. I also have a Shay backglass but my original is packed away. It’s not just the blue that’s different. Look at the huge difference in the green of the pool table and the green of the light fixture.

The color of the boots on the girl on the left is quite different too.

Ugh, exactly. Guess I'm back to my original plan of buying from Shay. Quality ain't cheap.

Original that sold on eBay today

E34EB093-8919-4945-A1AB-5DBEEBDD0B6C (resized).jpeg

I actually won that, but after I paid and he was gathering it to be picked up he noticed some condition issues.. So I passed.

Wait isn’t that the CPR version?? Did the eBay seller say that was an original? I’m confused!

If you look on CPR’s website theirs look really blue now.

That's what I said when I saw it! But he insisted it was NOS, from the 80s. I have no reason to doubt his claim. Really I had no interest in anything that seemed colors were off.. But for $150 figured I could deal with this.. Until he showed several small bubbles. I already have bubbly glass, noooo thanks.

My original had several issues. I can tell you I’m very happy with my Shay glass. It’s worth it.

I was really hoping to fix mine.. But there's no way. It's lifted far too much now imo. Shay glass is the only repro I've seen that meshes with the quality I feel I want. Can't have crummy glass go along with a hard top and powdercoated everything...
IMG_20200124_053153 (resized).jpgIMG_20200124_053228 (resized).jpg

How has the hardtop worked out for you? This is something I'd like to do to my EBD-LE in the future.

I'm not doing it on my EBD. My friend volunteered to do the work and I agreed. I'm in the middle of hardtopping a high speed and I hate it--but not because of anything to do with the hardtop itself. I got too aggressive trying to fix the shooter lane (which looked awful) and that's had me stalled for a long time. I suspect the hard top itself will be fine.

I bought a space shuttle with a hard top and I really like it. It's punishingly fast.

Hmmm...that's something I hadn't thought about. How does the hardtop work with the shooter lane?
Does it not cover it, and then leave a ridge somewhere? Or is the "concave" part of it actually in the hardtop itself?

It goes around the top outside edges, not in the groove itself.

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I'm wrapping up my EBD restore. And the game is now playing. The issue I need help with is the 7 bank reset.

What is happening is I cannot get the full bank of drops to reset. The two big coils fire but they aren't powerful enough to lock the targets up.

Although when I unhook the individual target drop coils on the bank. I do have the power to reset the full bank. Has anyone else had this issue of not enough uummff? To reset the targets?

Ok problem solved. After isolating individual coils on the 7 drop bank, it turned up no results. I moved down the return line and ended up disconnecting the trough coil. The 7 bank reset, no problem. Tested the coil on the bench and BAM bad diode. Apparently the game didn't care because it was putting a ball into the shooter lane no problem. So the diode was just weak enough to allow that coil to work but pull power off of the bank reset. By way of the 1,9 drop target coil. What a chase.

Thanks @treborlicec for the help.

I had a weird occurrence yesterday that I had never seen before (and it seems like a software bug).

I've had this machine for 35 years (and for a long time it was my only machine), so I know it very well.

The game powered on as usual, but when the game was started the blue 50K lamp (for completing the DELUXE) was already lit. The other lamps were lit (or unlit) as expected - except that in the backbox, ALL of the DELUXE letters were lit, including the final 'E' (which should never happen).

Looking at the wiring diagram, I could see no connection between that playfield insert and the letters in the backbox.

I powered the machine off and back on, but the problem remained. I played a couple of games to see if I could detect anything else unusual, but everything seemed fine otherwise.

Furthermore, when I hit the Eight Ball (after the other targets were down) to activate the DELUXE, I then had both the Deluxe Special and Deluxe 50K lights on.

Eventually, I did complete the deluxe. At this point the machine said "Nice shot, you got the Deluxe", awarded me 2 credits, and flashed all of the backbox deluxe letters (as it should when the "final" deluxe is made).

Following this, the backbox letters went back to off (as they should), and the 50K insert went off as well. Now it is all functioning as normal again.

It certainly has never done this before - it's like it got confused as to it's position in the backbox deluxe sequence. It is running an Altek CPU board, but it's been using that for at least 10 years, and this has never happened previously.

Obviously this isn't a big deal, but after 35 years I didn't expect to be surprised by this machine now.

Note: the lamps are controlled by the 5101 ram chip.
----- You could have a bad cell/cells in the ram chip.

Fellow EBD owners and lovers, I am in need of some plastics for my game. I'm sure some of you fine folks have purchased new sets and may have what I need leftover. I need the right inlane plastic, the left plastic that covers the bonus x drops and the clear plastic guide that runs under it, also the right plastic that covers the 8 ball drop and the clear plastic guide that runs under it. I also need a single horseshoe target in case if anyone has one of those.

Thanks in advance.

RC

The 2X target on my 1981 EBD intermittently does not reset between balls, I would say it stays down 20% of the time. When this happens the player gets 5,000 points at the start of the ball so the game realizes that the target is down and it does give a double bonus at the end of the ball. I had the drop targets replaced by a professional back in December and this problem only started in the last week. I suspect that the 2X target is sticking on something but I am not sure what to look for, everything looks solid as far as I can tell. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

When the targets reset, does it "stay down", or does it come up and then fall back down again?

If it is falling back down again, then it may be a couple of things -
1) the spring that pulls the target forward and down, is broken/loose/missing/weak
2) the small edge on the target that is supposed to catch on the edge of the playfield may be worn down
3) the edge of the playfield itself may be worn, preventing the target from latching onto it

If it is not coming up at all, then most likely there is a problem with how the target is attached to the reset arm...is it missing the cotter pin that holds it on?

When the 2X target does not reset it stays down. I will check the cotter pin! Thanks!

On my '81 EBD, the frame around the backglass has been painted black for some reason.

I like the black better than the white, but should I paint it white anyhow to make it easier to sell?

From the IPDB pics it looks kind of creamy white. Has anyone found a stock color that matches the original white?

Thanks,

Alan

If those two lamps also flashed as they should during attract or the effect before each ball serve (and the final E was flashing along with the other letters) that sure seems like a software glitch alright. Maybe a glitch in a connector or chip socket that broke contact long enough to corrupt something temporarily?

Don't know, I've been watching it but it has not happened again.

I painted the head of my 81 EBD with this (lemon balm) closest match I could find.

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Thanks for the reply, mcuzz.

Looks nice, did you brush or spray that?

Here's my WTB ad in Marketplace for some plastics that I need to finish up my EBD for PinBrew.

SOLD!

Parts - Wanted

WTB: '81 Eight Ball Deluxe plastics Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for these four plastics for my '81 EBD: Found 1. clear plastic M-1330-184-11 Found 2. clear plastic M-1330-184-12 Found 3. clear plastic M-1330-184-13 4. very large pl...”

2020-03-04

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

Wanted

Archived after: 5 days

Viewed: 72 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)