Yeah I'm pretty sure nothing in that lot had proper legs for high speed. I ended up giving it the legs from my World Cup Soccer 94 (they are fairly close imo) when I bought brass replacements.

I'm guessing that I have EBD and meteor swapped partially. My rear legs are rounded/front sharp square bottom, vice versa on meteor.

These were on high speed. It came along later, several months after i had brought BK2K/Meteor/EBD home.

Meteor now has the rounded edge bottom.

Really I'm not obsessed with making sure they're original, but I figured I'd send the RIGHT ones off for powder if I had them.

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I would do the same. Those might be the original HS legs. Scrape that black and see if there's chrome under the paint. There may have been surface rust that somebody wanted to cover up.

Mmmmm... Possibly. I think HS looks okay with the WPC legs I robbed off my WSC, so I'll probably just leave them be. I don't think I'm gonna go stupid with powdercoating on that one because I'm not entirely convinced it's a long term keeper once (if) I finish this hardtop. Looks close enough to what the ad showed for my tastes.

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Ha, I know what ya mean. I have 2 HS to restore. One will be a nos pf and the other is a hard top. The Nos I had auto cleared since the factory clear was crap.

My shooter lane was trashed and I went WAY too far trying to make it right.. which it isn't, and won't ever be I don't think...I need to just paint the stupid thing and move forward. It's been an awful experience--to no fault of Outside Edge. I hope it goes smoother once I half ass the shooter lane enough to call it "finished". I've become very jaded lol

I was ready to--reluctantly--dump this EBD just at the thought of having to do this again

Well I think you won't have as much work doing the hardtop on EBD. It only has 1 star roll over not 2. No ramps or habitrails to deal with. Less weight than HS. I don't recall the issue with your HS shooter lane. If you're not happy with, try stripping to bare wood and use a wood bleaching product, this may remove the dark stains. It's worth a shot. There may also be a vinyl product similar to contact paper that has adhesive that you can apply if you can find it with a wood grain pattern? I'm going to look into that...

EBD just got dropped 2 hours south, with a friend of mine. He wants to suffer through a hard top and I was all but resigned to selling it and buying a different one later. It's in far better hands with him than it would have been with me.

I snagged the metal pieces to drop for powdercoating.

On HS I just got way too aggressive and I've been trying to dig my way out. I'm sure it'll be fine, but it's not been a fun experience. I'm just going to paint the ball trough and clear it. Who cares at this point, I'm over dwelling on it.

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So you sold EBD or is he just working on it?

Didn't sell. Took my friend up on an offer I couldn't refuse and farmed out the work. He's far better suited to take it on. I'm going to try to lightly touch up a few spots on the cab when he's done--hoping to avoid completely repainting--but we'll see how it goes. He's got a lot ahead.

Here's the laundry list:

-hardtop
-bulb socket swap to bayonets
-board bulletproofing (MPU already replaced with an Alltek)
-powdercoating rails/lockbar/legs/rear glass channel, high gloss black
-cabinet touch up / restencil if needed
-new plastics, planning on buying the CPR set
-new backglass, planning on buying from Shay
-whatever else pops up along the way

I figure this will take a while--i told him not to make this a priority. But I'm over the money worries, and I'm ready to make this thing gorgeous.

Good deal! Another thing I would do is change out those damn IDC connectors and replace with standard Molex. Mainly on the MPU and solenoid driver. Also replace the high current fuse clips on the -54 if it's still original. They tend to overheat and tarnish causing a higher than normal current draw. Those 2 fuses run the GI lamps. IIRC it's F2 and F5 but double check for sure.

Whoops, yeah, forgot to include 'fixing the wiring'. It's got some hacks and a lot of the connectors are just... Yuck.

I fully expect this job to take a while, so I'll miss EBD while it's gone but it's going to be so nice when I get it back!

Anybody know what this diode is for? This does not look factory. It’s 2 different color wires. I never really noticed it before. There was a piece of tape over it but it fell off.

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I believe that's for the tilt ball mechanism. That diode is normally part of a leaf switch attached to the end of the tilt ball trough.

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Thanks. Looks like someone removed the tilt ball trough from my game.

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How was the hardtop install? I'm scared to death of messing up that hole you have to route out for the star rollover whenever I end up doing one.

My friend is saying that since I dropped off my EBD he's had no sound (he says there's a hum but nothing else?). When it was here the sound worked fine but the pitch was a bit high -- not alvin high, but higher than it 'should' be. Alas, no sound now and he's pretty sure everything got plugged back in correctly. Does the pitchiness hint at any particular reason why it might have altogether stopped working when I drove it 2 hours south to deliver to him? I'm a bit stumped tbh

Flaky sound and or speech volume pots
Re-cap sound board.

Has he tried sound test either on card or at coin door?

Sound test from the menu showed no results. I assume from the card you mean the board? I have not tried. Is that the red button in thre top left corner?

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Yes sound board. The volume pots on these are notorious for failure since dirt and oxidation gets in them. It looks like one of yours is missing the blue cap? Sometimes sound will return if you turn the pots a few times to loosen the crud in them. But since he mentioned the sound was funny before it's possible that it just new caps. That happened to me before.

Also I'm not seeing the 2 pin connector that goes to the speaker. Easy to miss since it's so small. I think it goes to J2 on the S&t board.

Sorry old picture. I think you mean this one. And yes its plugged in, no sound.

Wish it were that easy. I do get faint crackles and a hum. But no actual sounds.

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I will try messing with the one blue pot that's left and also the red button.

By the way I do have the new capacitor kit for the sound board on the way. I figured it was way overdue for one anyway. I'll try to see if I can get a new pot in on the same order.

Replace both posts. Double check the volume pot at coin door and the connection there also. Also count how many flashes you get on the sound board's led upon powering up.

Sounds good. Will report back with results later tonight. Thanks for the help. I'm still pretty green with Bally machines. I've spent most of my time on System 11 Williams.

Pots not posts. Stupid auto correct!

The hole is already made and you need to take a Dremel tool and slowly grind out the Hardtop hole till it flush with the wood. Hardtop made a video on how to do this also. Its really easy if you take your time. I started the Hardtop project on a Sunday afternoon and by Thursday night it was up and running.

Thanks. I didn't see any hardtop install videos that deal with the star rollover situation. I'm just worried about screwing it up. Dremel by hand can easily go wrong.

Well after messing with the sound and speech pots I now have speech. But still no sounds. Checked the manual, setting 18 is set to 03 which is most all scoring has noise with background sound. The red button made him say all the sayings. But no other noises. Wondering if maybe there is an alltek setting off with the dipswitches.

I definitely have a 24pin plug in the head that needs repinned ASAP. It is dark brown and gets very hot.

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The owner said the sound worked prior to moving the game so I would think the dips are correct. I never saw that 24 pin connector get burned in any of the Bally games I ever had. If it's getting hot, you need to investigate the power supply. Have you looked at the Pinwiki site for Bally/ Stern games? Sorry to say but I think you have some work to do! Since you have speech, the S&T is booting properly. Perhaps the sound pot is bad or the IC chip for sound went out. U12 AY3-8912. U8 is for speech so you know that is good.

AFAIK that connector has been that exact amount of burnt the entire time I've owned it, and probably for yeeeeears before. I noted that when I was looking it over upon bringing it down to my basement. Weird it never had any sound issues until I brought it back up and delivered it elsewhere but I'm not surprised to hear the boards could need some work. I highly doubt they've ever been worked on.

Go to outsideedgeproducts.com and look under Hardtop FAQ and there it will show you how to clean out the rollover hole.

Ah thank you. Found it. I was looking under the video section on the site and on YouTube.

Weird and unexpected things can happen to a 40 year old pin that wasn't designed for this life expectancy.

I Have stripped down pins for restoration that worked but then would have a locked on transistor on Sol driver board after reinstall or other problems w lamp etc. He should investigate and see which wire is getting hot on that connector and trace it.

Couple quick observations on the EBDLE I recently picked up. This game has a standard Bally coindoor decal (some have the Bally/Midway) and it has the cream and gold apron (most I've seen have the black and red Bally apron). I'm guessing this could be from using up stock of the old aprons. I suppose it could have been from a pf swap where an owner of an EBD 81 wanted a nicer playfield, but why not swap aprons. This one also has full sockets underneath, no lamp boards, like later ones.

I am in need of 2 plastics, if anyone can help. I need a the plastic that covers the 8 ball target and one of the inlane plastics is broken. Also, one of the horseshoe targets was replaced with a red generic one, so I could use a used original if anyone has one of those also. I think that's all from my initial once over.

Thanks,
RC

RC. The bally midway coin sticker was used on the 84 version ebd. The LE was still only Bally.
You could be right about the apron. Especially if it's an early one. Check serial number. Bally found ways to save money. The LE was born because they needed a way to use up those weird cabs that were originally designed for Rapid Fire and was a huge flop. So Centaur 2 and Mr. and Mrs. Pacman were also born.

The lamp socket thing is unknown weather original or not. Your assumption seems right that it probably was swapped from an original ebd. If you have the original LE manual compare wire colors on the schematic. I'm pretty sure the colors were slightly different from 81 ebd to Le. If the pf was swapped whoever did it had a ton of modifications to do on the wiring harness due to the weird configuration of the board layout and design not to mention converting the lamp sockets to wired individually. See if you can find a year stamped on the edge of the pf.

I probably have some used horseshoe targets.

I'll double check for that date. Regarding the coin door decal, I was going by the IPDB owner submitted pics. Flyer shows Bally decal, owner pics show Bally/Midway. Just figured they changed part way through production. No biggie to me. Just happy to have the game.

I'm buying a new set of plastics since I have a couple that are broken; I might have some useable extras. I'll check and get back with you.

Excellent, I appreciate it.

I see different coin door stickers on ballys all the time. It wouldn't make sense to have the black sticker since LE wasn't a Midway. Doors get swapped often due to break ins and abuse.

My LE had a Black/Red sticker originally. And I am pretty sure that was the original sicker as I bought it from an arcade in 1984.

I replaced it with a Silver Bally sticker, mainly because the original had been both torn, and written on with a magic marker.

The silver one was the only one I could find at the time. So I used it even though I knew it wasn't the same.

Parts were much so harder to find in the '80s without the internet.

Date code on the pf is March 1981, so it was a swap. Dammit, who stole my playfield, lol?

That makes sense since production started April 81

The EBDL and Centaur II had the original black and red Midway coin door stickers on them as they came from the factory. I've had several over the years and they came from different operators around the country. They were original owners and did not alter the doors.

After reading orbians post I decided to look up LE on the ipdb and I read some interesting facts. The LE did come with a black coin door sticker though the flyer shows the original Bally.
It also came with both styles of the switched lamp single sockets and the board style sockets. They must have switched in mid production. Black apron.
It also has green lamp sockets which I have only seen on LE and 1983 84 version. So it looks like you probably have the original PF in there if you have the green sockets. First ebd has white. The early date stamp really may only mean they made more play fields than games and you have an early LE.

What's the serial number of your LE?

Shows E8B1718

GI sockets seem to be white also.