What kind of vehicle are you using? In many SUV's or minivans you will not need to remove the head at all, just taking the legs off can make it fit (and will save you a bunch of work).

I have two early EBDs and both of them need the backglass surround repainted. Does anyone have the mixing formula or a paint brand/color code that is a good match for the yellowish/cream color?

Wow, those side exit lanes allow the ball to drain more than I recall on just about any other game. Is it just the nature of the beast or has anyone adjusted anything or added posts to cut down on that?

The upper posts under the left and right sling shot plastics have pre-drilled holes in the playfield for moving the posts up and down for conservative, medium and liberal adjustments. Only takes a few minutes to change them.

I hadn't noticed that. Thanks for the tip.

Interestingly, the left post had two other holes drilled (it was set in the middle position), but the right post had no additional holes.

I've had my EBD now for almost 35 years, and I've never noticed any real difference in behavior between having the slingshots adjusted in those positions.

I tried a lot of switching back and forth, but it didn't seem to matter. I don't even remember now which position I finally left them in.

And Yes, the outlanes are pretty mean on this game.

You find your paint code yet for the backbox trim? If not I can post a pic and details of what I have later today after I get home

Hey guys. Joined the club yesterday with a project machine. I’m so excited to get started. Brought home a good example of an early production game with white caps. Playfield is a bit worn but not horrible. Backglass has some peeling paint. The game is completely disassembled. The cabinet is empty except the powered board and transformer. It came with a bin full of parts. Looks like everything is there. More importantly the package included a new CPR Playfield and shay backglass. Cabinet and head are decent. At some point will likely strip and paint them but the initial phase will be to clean everything up and restore all the guts, swap the Playfield , get it running and then play the hell out of it for a while. Thanks pinsider Cheddar for everything!

A few pics. You can see the side of the head where someone added some cream paint over the original. A little ME and alcohol pulls that up without disturbing the paint underneath.

Dave
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And coin door restoration starts the process.

Dave

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Thank thank you Mathazar. I thought about it but I was thinking there are plenty of similar threads and I’m just a home hobbyist average guy. I would like to do a thread so maybe your encouragement we’ll get me to do it.

Dave

Thank you Kris. Sounds like you are in full bore too. You ate the first chip and within months had the whole bag. . I think you have a good handle on things. I look forward the seeing your threads.

I took your suggestion and started a new thread to document the work..

Dave

Does anyone know what paint types/colors are needed for the playfield? I am thinking about touching up some of mine.

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I think your pf is better then mine.

Dave

I don't believe there's specific color for the pf. These pf's were made by different manufacturers for the same title. Also each ages differently due to sun light, environment and exposure, etc. etc.

Your best bet is to try and match the colors by trial and error of send to a pro for touch up.

Anybody have problems with saucer shots sometimes skipping over and past the saucer? It is aggravating especially when lit for big points or special. It’s an NOS pf and new plastics all from many years ago. I’ve tried pushing the outer clear guide plastic as far inward as it can go while tightening it down which seemed to improve it but still happens sometimes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

I know what you mean very frustrating ! Makes me not want to play it

I tried this.It's not pretty but works quite well. It had to be anchored in two places otherwise it swivels.

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@calipindave, Nice Star Lube/Sizer. I have 3 of them! Been casting my own for a very long time.

Ha yes @yfz450. I saw that in the pic and wondered if anybody would know what it was. That’s my other main hobby. My brother and I are active Cowboy Shooters. (As well as target and some trap). I cast for everything we shoot.

Dave

Must be getting hard to get lead in that state of yours? I've been hording many years, sitting on well over 1500lbs of ww ingots, should last me awhile.

Yeah. Impossible....been casting forever and have saved up for a rainy day.

Dave

That's a tough area on this game. If the saucer mech is off slightly the ball will not eject and fall back into the saucer, or over shoots the saucer in your case. I have done 3 resto EBD's and this happened to me as well. It's possible that the clear plastics there are worn down. Can you try moving the lower clear plastic upward to close the gap?

Ughhh. I just got done switching over the playfield lighting (and under the playfield) to LEDs, and some of them are flickering, even though they're supposed to be non-ghosting.

Also, the right target bank is not popping up at all. I don't think I bumped anything but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Nothing yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Or you can modify your existing lamp driver board by adding resistor networks to the lamp outputs. I use 560 ohm networks. The wire goes to the common on each of the resistor networks and then attaches to the controlled light buss just like the Alltek board. Works great and costs less than $5 for parts.

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check the fuses under the playfield for your target re-set issue

Yes, it seems the outlandish prices on items attract watchers to see if it really sells for that price. I've done that too.

They seem fine. I'm wondering if I knocked a wire loose somewhere when I was installing the LEDs.

Ok, this is weird. Although the 7-drop-target bank doesn't reset (pop back up) at the start of the game, or for a second player, it does pop up when doing the solenoid diagnostic test. That implies there is power to the assembly, but why isn't it popping up as it should during the game?

Here's the paint I used. And as you know the code is not ledgable Hopefully get it from S/W tomorrow

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I have noticed that seller asks for very high prices for their games. I think the average price for a LE is around $2500. To me the original version was the best. I restored 3 of them and sold them for total of almost $18K. But, they were full blown restos with CPR pf's and chrome up the wazoo lol.

Well, thank you for pointing me in the right direction! As soon as I put an incandescent bulb back in that spot everything works properly. So it wasn't that the coil failed, it was that that bulb somehow regulates electrical flow, and without it things won't be running at the proper voltage.

As xTheBlackKnightx said on another thread...

"IMPORTANT TECHNICAL NOTE:
DO NOT USE a LED in the SEB lamp, as this will not work in the circuit theory based on necessary voltage unless the circuit has been adjusted with resistance based on a standard Ohm's Law calculation. A lot of new owners do not seem to understand the SEB design technology and why/how it was used. Read the base schematics closely. The SEB lamp is part of lamp matrix, not the SDB, and does not draw power from this part of the game. The proper 6.5v from the SEB lamp is extremely important in order to draw enough current to the MOC3011 opto-isolator on the SEB and activate. I have already seen young technicians not understand these aspects and make this mistake repeatedly on this series of games.

The SEB lamp is not "just another feature lamp".

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To all,

Does anyone know the size of the screws that attach the top of the pop bumpers to the skirts? Can't seem to find it.

Plaw

IIRC it's a specialty screw about 3/4 in long with course thread. I probably have a few extra ones if you're not in a hurry. My pins and parts are in storage and I just moved so it will take a week or 2 to get to them.

New to the forum...
Had an EBD (‘81) for 20 years and a new playfield from CPR. Trying to swap out and convert to the socketed lamp boards used on EBD Limited. I have both my EBD and a limited playfield to use as a guide, but the Limited is a little hacked here and there.
My question is relative to the playfield fuses. My EBD has 1 fuse, Limited Edition 3. I know the 1 amp gets the 2 browns and 2 yellows for the coils...same as original.
What do I hook up to the other 2, for lighting. Looks like they both have a line (1 blue, 1 black with white stripes) that runs back to power board. Then, I assume I just ground the other side to lamp sockets?
Anybody done this?
Thx

I thought about doing that since I had the 3 boards but I thought it would be too much work. I did however swap out the 555 sockets to bayonet 44 style. For me the 555 sockets at the time were not user friendly with LED lamps. I think also that the 81 and LE versions have different colors for all the controlled lamp wiring IIRC. Do you have the LE manual, it should tell how the fuse block is wired? I have one but it's in storage at the moment.

Thx for the reply...I just ordered the Limited manual. I literally matched the Limited wire for wire with my original, until I was only left with what looks like grounds to groups of light sockets, since much of the ground wire is removed when using the boards. I’ll see what the manual says.
Thx

You can find it in its' entirety online.

I have a strange problem with the 2x and 4x multiplier on my EBD (1984 version).

When I hit the 2x, sometimes the LED under the playfield briefly lights the green 4x before switching to the 2x LED. Other times it lights up the 4x and doesn't switch to the 2x indicator. If I actually get to the point of hitting the 4x target, the LED doesn't advance to that (it stays on 3x), and no sound indicates that any change occurred.

The wiring doesn't look like there is any problem, but if I trace the wires back to the board is there a way to know whether they are connected to the appropriate socket? Is there a diagram that shows where each wire (2x and 4x) should be connected?

I'm guess the lamp module is correct because in attract mode the lamps 2x, 3x, 4x, and 5x light up in the proper order. Is that a correct assumption?

I also have ALLTEK boards replacing some of the originals. Do those wiring diagrams still pertain to me?

Also, why on the wiring diagrams do they show 2 4x locations and not a 5x location--is that a typo?

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yes the pin outs are the same for the Alltek driver. The 5x might be switched on the aux lamp driver.

Also you should check the leaf switches for adjustment. If the switch blades are too close, vibrations will cause the switch to close momentarily causing the 4x to light up. Or if it sticks, the 4x will stay lit and 2x will go out because the game thinks the 4x target was dropped. If that's not the issue then maybe the diode is on it's way out.