Thanx, guys. So I can just use the existing posts and stack the metal piece on top of the plastic piece? I don't suppose you could snap a pic of what the proper finished assembly looks like? I should have the plastic pieces in hand by Wednesday.

Here ya go...

Shawn

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Thank you, Shawn. That helps very much....so much so that it confirms that I think I'm still missing some pieces besides the plastic. I appear to have only that top part of the post/standoff from the screw head down to the top of the plastic piece. I need to find, somehow, the post/standoff from the underside of the plastic to the playfield. So far I've come up short with Marco's, and my EBD OPS manual doesn't call out the post/standoff pieces with part numbers. I'll search some more today.....thanx again.

You are not going to find it because the "topcoat" post you are looking for is part of the plastic!

Aha! I guess I'll find out Wednesday - I ordered the complete EBD plastics set from CPR last week. It's hard to tell from CPR's pictures if the post is there on the underside....I hope sure it is. Thank you!

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hate to disappoint you, but those posts won´t be part of the CPR set
And they are hard/impossible to find

Note: a Pinsider did make replacement posts.
but who?? I do not know but I did see an add for them.

Thanx - that's kinda what I feared/figured. Bally must've used that ball guide design on other pins of the same era which should hopefully widen up the search. I'll keep looking!!

You're looking for these. Best found on old plastics. I call them Bally bell spacers. Any spacers will do for the time being.

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I'm slowly gathering all the parts for my playfield swap. I've currently got a mix of the blue posts, some star and others the concentric ones that I believe were original. Does anyone happen to know how many are in the game and whether they are 1" or 1 1/16" or 1 1/8"? I still need to get a full set of plastics and have my new drop targets clear coated but hoping to get on this thing before long.

My eight ball deluxe did something weird today. knocked down the 8 ball with 2-3 other drops down, shot the ball into the saucer, the bonus added up, but the machine reset the drops instead of kicking the ball back out of the saucer. It only did this three or four times messing with it after. About the same time this was going on it failed to kick the ball into the shooter lane as well. Heard the coil go but no ball came out. Any ideas?

Last night I have the playfield up to replace some bulbs, shouldn't have messed anything up. I hope

I just started working on a friends machine. The main fuse (3 amp?) in the black twist in holder was blown. I replaced it with a new one and everything seemed to be OK except the upper left flipper seemed weak.

If pressure is applied against the upper left flipper when pressing the flipper button, the same main fuse blows. I would expect that a different fuse would blow before this one.

Any ideas?

Also, if someone here could post a picture of the flipper wiring and end of stroke switch on the lower left flipper, that will help me in determining if the wiring is correct.

While the bell posts are not reproduced finding used ones isn't that difficult. They were used on several Bally games from the 70s and 80s - not just Eight Ball Deluxe.

Finding immaculate ones is more challenging but they don't have to be perfect for the lower plastic lane guides because they are somewhat hidden by the top set and the metal lane guides.

The posts are nickel plated and are often pitted but can usually be cleaned up to some extent unless they are too far gone.

I had an EM game that needed the same type of posts and had a machinist
make them out of aluminum... The owner never knew.

I just put up a bunch of EBD parts for sale. Let me know if you need anything.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-ebd-used-parts

Bryan_Kelly - PM sent.

Merf's Pins EBD Apron arrived. Very nice. Well made. Finishing touch to EBD.
</blockquote

Glad you like the EBD ball arch. brenna98 and I worked really hard on these to make an apron we would be proud to put in our games. We just have a handful of the EBD ones left so if anyone still needs one contact brenna98 and we will send an invoice if we have any left by the time you PM.

Why is the 1984 model not listed on Pinside?

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It's essentially the same game. Are all the different versions of Stern's Harley Davidson listed seperately?

So....looks like the 1984 Edition doesn’t have enough ratings for it to be included in the Pinside top 100. That’s why it is missing. So all the 1984 owners, submit your rating and let’s get the 1984 on the list!

Looking to sell the last remaining stock of reproduction EBD aprons. These are leftover from preorder people backing out. If any new owners would like a shiny new apron and shooter, please PM me.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-eight-ball-deluxe-final-merf-s-pins-stock#post-4540609

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only 5 left. who wants one?

I have a 1981 EBD tech issue.

On startup, My nicely restored EBD comes to life. Upon pushing start, it fails to kick out a ball, the inserts don’t light and 3 ball drop target drops. Otherwise, all flippers and other coils work.

Attempting to fix the game, I moved it to the workroom and plugged it in. All issues resolved. I moved it back to where the other games are and it has resumed with the same problems after playing several games.

Does anyone know this game well enough to point me in the direction of a common link in the symptoms?

I confess that I’m not much good at electronics, but can do basic continuity checks etc and solder.

Thank you in advance

Chris

Connectivity issues with the switch matrix plugs on the MPU. (upper left board in the head)

Check for corrosion and/or wiggle/ reseat plugs and test again. It will continue to plague you unless you find the exact plug/pins causing the issue(s).

Furthermore, this is more of a general Bally/general pinball problem more than it's specifically an EBD problem.

Does your solenoi

Is the Solenoid Expander relay clicking when you put the game in lamp test? If not figure out why not and your solenoid issue will be fixed.

Felt good to finally clean this one up. New posts and rubbers plus a few coats of novice and wax.

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All three versions of EBD are the same game but they were each separate units that were released years apart from each other.

If the Limited Edition makes the list then the Classic version should be eligible too. Actually, all three versions of EBD should be made into one entry since they are the same gameplay even though the original version is the most-popular for other reasons.

Same with Harley. No difference.

I am slowly getting an Eight Ball Deluxe running again after it has sat for 5 plus years.

Using the factory mpu that suffered some corrosion damage, the right inlane switch will register a slam tilt and the machine will reset. Using an Alltek board the machine plays fine and has no switch matrix issue.

Any suggestions on what steps should be taken to repair the mpu? Is it likely a bad chip issue?

Thanks

Update on Oct 8. My friend decided to buy a new mpu.

Sounds like a switch matrix problem. The D-rollover and Slam tilt are next to each other on the same (2nd) row. https://www.pinitech.com/switch_database.php?name=Bally_Eight_Ball_Deluxe

Here's the old pinrepair site: http://www.vecchiflipper.it/Guide/bally/index3.htm#smatrix

It's probably a resistive short on the factory MPU board caused by the battery corrosion. The short usually happens under the DIP Switches so might not be obvious.
Disconnect the J2 and J3 connectors from the MPU board.
Grab your multimeter and set it to resistance mode (200k range if it's not an auto ranging meter).
At the MPU J3 pin header, measure the resistance between:
-- pin 15 and pin 16 (switch matrix return lines I6 and I7 respectively)
-- pin 14 and pin 15 (switch matrix return lines I5 and I6 respectively)
-- pin 9 and pin 10 (switch matrix return lines I0 and I1 respectively)

The three readings should be around 115k ohms. Let us know if the reading between pin 15 and 16 is less and post clear pictures of the MPU board if that's the case.

Hi, I'm working on a different game, but it has the bell standoffs. Wondering what is the best way to remove them and then install in new plastics.
By the way, that's a great job you did on reproducing those pieces.
thx

Put the tip of your soldering iron into the hole of the bell standoff.

I'll give that a try on an old plastic. CPR recommended drilling them out, which is what I have done in the past. Looking for a slicker solution.
thx

Congrats on that find! I hope the pinball gods are as kind to me someday - I'm keeping my eyes peeled for similar scores in the Denver area but everything lately seems to be overpriced DMDs.

Congrats, Sounds about like mine. I’m hoping the hardtop comes out soon!

Looking for some guidance on how to address this minor problem. About 2 times out of 10 on average, the outhole kicker can't get the ball to the trough - the ball falls back to the kicker and it's retried (see video below - kicks #6 and #8 fail). The only time it really aggravates me is when it does it several times in a row, which has happened a few times.

Are there any adjustments that can be made? Replace the coil? Thanx for any input!

I had some clear plastic protector sets cut out with the laser from 2mm thick acrylate.

There was some free space on the plate and I filled it up with a few sets of clear inlane guides for Eight Ball Deluxe. They are an exact copy of the original clear plastics that were in my game. Here's how the new set looks once installed:

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In case somebody is interested in a set (of 2 guides), then send me a PM with your address.

For good understanding: I'm not setting up a business, just trying to help people with yellowed or broken plastics. I only have a limited amount of sets. I'm charging 8€, worldwide shipping included (in an enveloppe). This is a photo of a new set (obviously here with blue protective film still on, the actual plastics are crystal clear of course...).

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Had that exact issue on my Flash Gordon. It took quite a while to find. I originally thought it was the kicker head hitting the ball off center which I have had before. Then I replaced the coil sleeve assuming it was just too slow. In this case it was the drain switch wireform, it would not go down enough not to lift the ball slightly. It has a lower limit and if incorrectly set it can hold the ball up a bit. If the ball sat in the "U" shape at the bottom of the channel waiting to be kicked and got over the wireform it would push out of the way to the left (when looking from behind), let the ball sit down properly and get kicked correctly. If it entered just so, the ball could lean on the uphill side of the "U" and on the wire form holding the ball up just a bit. The ball would then be slightly to the left when watching from behind waiting to see it get kicked. The ball movement had enough wobble to not make it over the hill. On my FG, it would occasionally misfire, then sometimes have to try 5 times in a row before it succeeded.

Thanx for that....I'll take a closer look when I'm home from work tonight!

Wow...your playfield, side boards, apron, etc. look super vibrant and pristine. Care to share some additional hi-rez pix of your entire machine? Part of me would love to see it, another part of me not so much as it'll make me feel bad about my own EBD.

Well thank you sir! Here it is:

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I restored my EBD about a year ago. It took me about 200 hrs if I recall well. Here is the restoration thread.

Absolutely gorgeous. And thank you for your restoration thread - the attention to detail in both your machine and documentation is outstanding. And, as I feared, I'm now feeling inadequate about my EBD.

Issue resolved (or worst case, made a lot more reliable)! Upon closer examination of the kicker assembly, I noticed the little plastic shroud around the coil mounting backet post was a bit loose/wobbly. Because of this, the kicker arm would rest back closer to that post. When that happens, the part of the kicker that touches the ball would not be square with ball and instead be off to the side a bit (a bit like BJM-Maxx described). I'm thinking this is what might be causing the occasional "misfire" on my machine.

I took the cotter pin off the post and removed the plastic shroud. I then cut down and wrapped some electrical tape around the post, then forced the plastic shroud back down over the taped post so it's nice and tight and reinserted the cotter pin. It's solid now....no movement on the post. And this forces the kicker to be square up on the ball.

Before applying this bit of jury-rigging, the kicker would fail to launch the ball into the shooter lane about 2 times out of 10 on average. After, it's worked 50 for 50 so far. Time will tell how solid this is, but I'm pretty happy for now. Unexpected side benefit - the kicker action actually seems a lot quieter now.

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I have used these with good results but of course out of stock. Maybe somebody has them:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7176-1

Stupid problem that keeps happening...….

Pop bumper caps keep coming off. The tabs keep breaking. As you know, the EBD pop bumper tops are hard to find and cost a ton compared to others. Anyone else have this issue and have a solution?

Plaw

I haven’t had this issue. If you haven’t done so already, I think you have to turn them a little to lock them in.

What actually happens is that I push them in, turn them so they lock. I am getting a failure where the entire locking tab breaks at the connection point of the tab to the cap. It is a shear type failure.

PBR has the trim rings for $3 each and a set of three caps is $20. I've probably put several thousand games on mine since I bought them new including several trips to TPF and the Houston arcade show where it got plenty of abuse and they are still like new. Perhaps you have another issue?

Shawn