Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

5 years ago



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  • 1,954 posts
  • 237 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 100 Pinsiders

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There are 1954 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 40.
#1801 10 months ago

I swapped out for new. None are cracked. 2X was missing but the rest are there. If you need one let me know just pay shipping. PM me.

targets01 (resized).jpg

#1802 10 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Pictures? Everything is fixable with a little work. There's only one way to wire it up right and obviously yours is ungrounded.
Shawn

I am currently working on my POTO power problem. When I'm done with that, I'll be able to show you all what is going on with my EBD. Thanks for your help!

#1803 10 months ago
Quoted from PINBALL-LUST:

I am currently working on my POTO power problem. When I'm done with that, I'll be able to show you all what is going on with my EBD. Thanks for your help!

can't wait to see it

1 week later
#1804 9 months ago

Got a 1984 EBD recently and I love it! Reminds me of my youth Still working out some issues for it to be 100% operational but I am optimistic. The on/off toggle switch under the cabinet gave up the ghost yesterday and can't seem to locate one to replace it. The hardware guys say it's an application specific switch. Anyone have an extra lying around on a defunct or parts only machine they would be willing to part with? Here is a pic of the switch:

on-off toggle ebd (resized).jpg

#1806 9 months ago

Thanks, Mk1Mod0! Just ordered it -- and will remember Digi-Key for future needs. Appreciate your help.

#1807 9 months ago

I’m replacing my slingshot switches - the lower ones. There is a diode between where the wire goes to the first post and second post on the first switch. Do I need that diode? If so, can I just use the diode from the old switch?

#1808 9 months ago
Quoted from BorisSWort:

I’m replacing my slingshot switches - the lower ones. There is a diode between where the wire goes to the first post and second post on the first switch. Do I need that diode? If so, can I just use the diode from the old switch?

Only 1 diode is needed per side since the switches are wired parallel. I would replace the diodes since you will be working on it anyway. Very cheap. 1N4148 or 1N4004

#1809 9 months ago

Anybody an idea where to get the EE lamp sockets from that were used in EBD? I checked Marco and a few other places but no success.
I believe I saw a thread here where somebody replaced all his sockets with new ones but I can´t find that anymore....

#1810 9 months ago

I restored my EBD recently and replaced all #555 sockets with #47 bulb holders. Works perfectly.

#1811 9 months ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

Anybody an idea where to get the EE lamp sockets from that were used in EBD? I checked Marco and a few other places but no success.
I believe I saw a thread here where somebody replaced all his sockets with new ones but I can´t find that anymore....

Those sockets are NLA, no longer available. I did 2 EBD swaps and changed from 555 wedge base socket to the 44 bayonet style. They are much more reliable and the LEDs fit better.

#1812 9 months ago

I am working on the in-line drop target assembly and the 2x was broken and missing the yoke assembly A-3941 and the pivot stud S 458-32. Marcos had the 3941 but they do not have the 458-32,they have the 458-27 I have pictured on the bottom for the standard target .Does anyone have or know what I can use as an replacement? Maybe a clevis pin from ace hardware

Thanks, Lee

20180507_050026_001 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#1813 9 months ago

Wondering if anyone could help me with a playfield light issue on my EBD Classic? A couple of weeks ago, an issue started with the billiard ball lights on the playfield. In Player 1 mode, as balls 1 thru 7 start to light up as a result of targets dropping, balls 8-15 start lighting up dimly and progressively get brighter (when 8-15 should be all off). Conversely in Player 2 mode, as balls 8-15 light up as a result of targets dropping, balls 1-7 start lighting up dimly and progressively get brighter (when 1-7 should be all off).

In addition to this occurring during gameplay, a very similar thing occurs when the playfield lights are in attract mode in-between games. Here's a short video to see exactly what I’m talking about:

I’ve tried re-seating all of the connectors on the Alltek LED light board in the back box. I visually inspected the wires to the LEDs and I don’t see anything loose or in need of re-soldering. Any suggestions to point me in the right direction? Thank you!

#1814 9 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Wondering if anyone could help me with a playfield light issue on my EBD Classic? A couple of weeks ago, an issue started with the billiard ball lights on the playfield. In Player 1 mode, as balls 1 thru 7 start to light up as a result of targets dropping, balls 8-15 start lighting up dimly and progressively get brighter (when 8-15 should be all off). Conversely in Player 2 mode, as balls 8-15 light up as a result of targets dropping, balls 1-7 start lighting up dimly and progressively get brighter (when 1-7 should be all off).
In addition to this occurring during gameplay, a very similar thing occurs when the playfield lights are in attract mode in-between games. Here's a short video to see exactly what I’m talking about: » YouTube video.
I’ve tried re-seating all of the connectors on the Alltek LED light board in the back box. I visually inspected the wires to the LEDs and I don’t see anything loose or in need of re-soldering. Any suggestions to point me in the right direction? Thank you!

I would try putting the incandescent lamps back in and see if anything changes. Also contact Alltek support and explain the issue. They are usually quick on the reply. Is jumper installed from alltek to switched lamp bus as per alltek instructions? Verify switched lamp voltage is in spec.

#1815 9 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Wondering if anyone could help me with a playfield light issue on my EBD Classic?

Alltek board requires the extra jumper wire to connect directly to a controlled lamp. Did that get disconnected?

Without the jumper wire installed the controlled lamps definitely behave strangely.

#1816 8 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would try putting the incandescent lamps back in and see if anything changes. Also contact Alltek support and explain the issue. They are usually quick on the reply. Is jumper installed from alltek to switched lamp bus as per alltek instructions? Verify switched lamp voltage is in spec.

Quoted from gorgar007:

Alltek board requires the extra jumper wire to connect directly to a controlled lamp. Did that get disconnected?
Without the jumper wire installed the controlled lamps definitely behave strangely.

Thanx, guys. I put back in the incandescents, no change. I confirmed that the jumper wire from TP13 on the Alltek board is still attached to the control lamp on the back box. I've got a VM, but I'm a newbie at pinball ownership and am not sure where to check voltages or what the values should be. Can you point me in the right directly for that?

The Aux Lamp Driver Board in my EBD is still the original Bally one - should that be updated to the Alltek LED/Lamp Driver board as well? The configuration I have now did work flawlessly for about 3 months till I hit this issue.

Thanx again!

#1817 8 months ago

Will someone please explain all the differences between the EBD's.

I ordered a new Arch and shooting gauge and just wanted to make sure mine is the correct cabinet. The Arch and shooting gauge that's ordered is for a 1981 version.

#1818 8 months ago

3 versions:
81 (Original) White base apron, yellow stripping, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=762&picno=28160
82 (LE, in a Rapidfire cab) Black base, red stripping I think.... http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=763&picno=12276
84 (Bally/Midway) Black base, red stripping, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=5021&picno=19057

#1819 8 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Thanx, guys. I put back in the incandescents, no change. I confirmed that the jumper wire from TP13 on the Alltek board is still attached to the control lamp on the back box. I've got a VM, but I'm a newbie at pinball ownership and am not sure where to check voltages or what the values should be. Can you point me in the right directly for that?
The Aux Lamp Driver Board in my EBD is still the original Bally one - should that be updated to the Alltek LED/Lamp Driver board as well? The configuration I have now did work flawlessly for about 3 months till I hit this issue.
Thanx again!

If you have a TP13 then you have an Alltek driver already. Original driver does not have the LED support. Either the Alltek is failing or there's a short in the lamp circuit. Try contacting Alltek support via email. They reply quickly.

#1820 8 months ago
Quoted from roar:

3 versions:
81 (Original) White base apron, yellow stripping, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=762&picno=28160
82 (LE, in a Rapidfire cab) Black base, red stripping I think.... http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=763&picno=12276
84 (Bally/Midway) Black base, red stripping, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=5021&picno=19057

roar ....Thanks very much ! I really appreciate it.

#1821 8 months ago
Quoted from roar:

3 versions:
81 (Original) White base apron, yellow stripping, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=762&picno=28160
82 (LE, in a Rapidfire cab) Black base, red stripping I think.... http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=763&picno=12276
84 (Bally/Midway) Black base, red stripping, http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=5021&picno=19057

This is correct, but there are more differences other than the arch. The '81 version does not use lamp boards; it's all individual sockets. The later versions have decaled cabinets, not painted, and have a lot more particle board. The playfields require a little work to move between games (the software is the same, some of the connections are not). And the LE has the cabinet nobody likes to work on.

#1822 8 months ago
Quoted from ts4z:

And the LE has the cabinet nobody likes to work on.

I agree, I had a Centaur II and working on it was a challenge.

#1823 8 months ago

Would someone (or does anyone know of somebody) who would be interested in redoing a EBD 81 cabinet for me. I can sand it down & have it ready. PM please. Thanks.

I am in Moorhead MN. I could bring to Mnpls area.

#1824 8 months ago
Quoted from dragdaily12:

Ebd woodie. 1 year in the making. Seek peek pics. Waiting on custom backglass but this is the topper in progress.

I know this is an old post but I just got an '81 EBD with a really worn playfield

I really like how this playfield turned out, did you sand off the old playfield then added decals to get this look?

#1825 8 months ago

Just received the new arch (apron) and shooter gauge from Merf's Pins. These are very well made. I am very happy with everything. Great customer service. Answered all my emails promptly.

I hope they do many other titles.
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#1826 8 months ago

I'm struggling to remove the arm mechanic to be able to replace the 8 Ball drop target. I've yet to even attempt removal on the rest of the drop targets, start small right?

What all needs to be removed to successfully get this out? The screw assembly shown in the picture is where I think the issue is but that entire assembly moves as one and when I apply pressure in various areas to attempt to unscrew it doesn't budge.

EBD_drop_target (resized).JPG
#1827 8 months ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Just received the new arch (apron) and shooter gauge from Merf's Pins. These are very well made. I am very happy with everything. Great customer service. Answered all my emails promptly.
I hope they do many other titles.

Received mine today too....WOW.....

It's gorgeous!

Can't wait to get my TAF apron....

#1828 8 months ago

Merf's Pins EBD Apron arrived. Very nice. Well made. Finishing touch to EBD.

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#1829 8 months ago
Quoted from jmulvenon:

What all needs to be removed to successfully get this out?

Remove the three screws for the bottom plate and remove it. Then that corner will slide off of the spacer and you can pull the whole thing out.

Shawn

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#1830 8 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Remove the three screws for the bottom plate and remove it. Then that corner will slide off of the spacer and you can pull the whole thing out.
Shawn

My man! Thanks!

#1831 8 months ago

Is it possible to adjust the height of the main target bank? I see how to adjust the bank shot and eight ball but not the main bank.

#1832 8 months ago
Quoted from gorgar007:

Is it possible to adjust the height of the main target bank? I see how to adjust the bank shot and eight ball but not the main bank.

no there isn't. If you have CPR pf then the targets might be sitting too low because of the extra thickness of the pf wood and the clear coat. The ball will get stuck on the drop target bank if the targets are down. You will need to find a way to shim the targets up by placing something on the bottom bracket of the bank where the targets rest when down. Perhaps a flat piece of metal that can be mounted there. I used thick washers.

#1833 8 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

no there isn't. If you have CPR pf then the targets might be sitting too low because of the extra thickness of the pf wood and the clear coat. The ball will get stuck on the drop target bank if the targets are down. You will need to find a way to shim the targets up by placing something on the bottom bracket of the bank where the targets rest when down. Perhaps a flat piece of metal that can be mounted there. I used thick washers.

I used some foam weather stripping. Kind of cushions the targets as they drop. Has to be just the right thickness though.

#1834 8 months ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I used some foam weather stripping. Kind of cushions the targets as they drop. Has to be just the right thickness though.

Yeah about 3/32 to 1/8 inch.

#1835 8 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Yeah about 3/32 to 1/8 inch.

I also thought of using foam similar to beer seal but was afraid the foam would crush or dry rot over time.

1 week later
#1836 8 months ago

If anyone has a worn playfield, look into these hardtops... and cast your vote for eight ball deluxe to be produced!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-hardtops-thread#post-4447510

#1837 8 months ago

Hey all,

My dad has an eight ball deluxe that has a broken component (seems like a cotter pin of some kind) on the upper flipper but neither of us can find out exactly what the part is called, or where to get a replacement. I've attached a picture to try and show exactly which part it is. It's the little pin that the pen is pointing at. Anyone have an idea on where we can get a replacement for it?

7493 (resized).jpeg
#1838 8 months ago

Some might call it a flipper pawl or a side lever assembly. It is connected to the flipper plunger/link assembly and held on by a 3/16" c-ring. Here's what each side looks like. If you just need the c-ring they can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Does that help?

Shawn

IMG_0518 (resized).JPGIMG_0519 (resized).JPG
#1839 8 months ago

I miss my 84.....great game! Hope to rejoin the club again someday

#1840 8 months ago

Went to do repair work on a Black Pyramid last week. Wanted to buy it soooo bad. I miss mine.

#1841 7 months ago

I'm really hoping someone can help me with a playfield light issue I'm having....

I converted a 1984 Bally Eight Ball Deluxe "Classic" pinball machine from standard lamps to LEDs using a new Alltek Lamp Driver board. Everything worked fine for about 4 months. Now, when a certain number of lights illuminate in the "rack" on the playfield (the Middle Playfield Light Distribution board), the remaining lights (which should be off) dimly illuminate.

See the video I posted on YouTube which illustrates the exact problem and includes photos of all the PCBs in the pin:

I've tried:
- Replacing the 4-month old Alltek Lamp Driver board with a new one (TP13 is installed/attached to control lamp)
- Replacing the original Bally Aux Lamp Driver board with a new Alltek (tried with TP3 both attached to and detached from control lamp)
- Replacing the original Bally Power Rectifier board with a new Gulf Pinball board
- Cleaning the traces and solder joints on the original Bally Middle Playfield Light Distribution board.

What I haven't done:
- Replace the original Bally Middle Playfield Light Distribution board (I don't have one / can’t find one)
- Re-pin any Molex connectors. On the surface, it doesn't seem necessary as the behavior is acting like a "crosstalk" power issue affecting multiple (all) lights on the Middle Playfield Light Distro board
- Replace any LEDs (for the same reason as above)
- Re-solder any connectors (for the same reason as above)

Have any of you guys seen anything like this before?

Thank you in advance for any help/guidance you can provide!

#1842 7 months ago

Start looking for a short in your wiring. I doubt its your boards. Somewhere a wire is getting crossed and when that lamp lights up it causes the problem by shorting all the others. My quick and easy guess.

Shawn

#1843 7 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

- Replacing the 4-month old Alltek Lamp Driver board with a new one (TP13 is installed/attached to control lamp)
- Replacing the original Bally Aux Lamp Driver board with a new Alltek (tried with TP3 both attached to and detached from control lamp)

What DC voltage are you measuring at these points (TP13 and TP3) when they're hooked up?

#1844 7 months ago

Does anyone know the pn for the EOS switch for the upper flipper? The one to the right of Mikester08's pen in the picture. I've been looking online and see a bit of differing part numbers? The tab broke off mine.

Thanks,
Kraig

#1845 7 months ago
Quoted from brody:

EOS switch for the upper flipper?

Bally #ASW-A20-34

#1846 7 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Some might call it a flipper pawl or a side lever assembly. It is connected to the flipper plunger/link assembly and held on by a 3/16" c-ring. Here's what each side looks like. If you just need the c-ring they can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Does that help?
Shawn

Hey Shawn sorry for the late response but yes that helps. do you know where i can get a full assembly like that for the upper flipper?

#1847 7 months ago
Quoted from mikester08:

do you know where i can get a full assembly like that for the upper flipper?

http://www.pbresource.com/KT-BFLIP03.html

You can find the individual parts by scrolling down.

Shawn

#1848 7 months ago

Can anyone tell me if there are supposed to be two pieces (upper and lower) to the Left and Right Ball Guide Assemblies? I just noticed my EBD has only the one metal one and some plastic replacement kits I've seen come with clear plastic ones. Can't find a clear picture of this area of the playfield on the internet, but some I've seen looks like it has both the clear plastic (on bottom) and the metal (on top) separated by posts. If that's the way it's supposed to be, does anyone know where to get the proper posts? I have the clear plastic pieces on the way to me - meanwhile this is what my EBD looks like in its present Left and Right Ball Guide configuration. And yes I'll be replacing the rubbers soon and the playfield could use a good cleaning as well:

IMG_5565 (resized).jpgIMG_5566 (resized).jpg
#1849 7 months ago

there should be a plastic guide underneath the metal guide using the same bell posts

#1850 7 months ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

there should be a plastic guide underneath the metal guide

Correct,it keeps the ball from touching and running down the metal ball guide piece.

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