Once disassembled, it only takes minor carpentry skills and a few tools to replicate it from a new piece of plywood. It looks like yours is made of the cheap fiber board that many were made of. The one on my '84 version was completely broken at the hinge and had to be replaced. The only really hard part is prying out the old staples. And be careful with the plastic light shields on the front. They make new ones but they are pricey. Once tou have it stripped just match it to a piece of new and trace out all the holes and edges. With a drill, a cheap jigsaw and a few hours you can make a duplicate piece decently enough. Spray it white, remount all the hardware and voila!

Shawn

I am on the EBD apron repro pre-order list, but have sold my game. If anyone wants my spot for the apron, send me a PM and I will switch my spot over to you. First PM, first dibs.

Added over 6 years ago: Apron spot has been claimed.

I see now from pictures that missing steel pin. Does anybody sell that part? Is there a good source for new playfield screws? I’ve tried to reach Gatecrasher. I’ve ordered new plastic posts from PBR. I have a new rubber set from Marco that I haven’t installed yet. There are several mistakes on my game with the rubber rings which I want to correct.

Just finished restoring mine.

DPV_0276 (resized).jpgDPV_0278 (resized).jpgDPV_0279 (resized).jpgIMG_20171215_190312 (resized).jpgDPV_0268 (resized).jpg

Here's the full story .

WOW !! That's a great story!! Great job! You inspired me! Thank you very much.

A question to the EE experts: is it factory that the blade switches under the rollovers aren´t protected with fishpaper? Or is that just missing on my EBD?

Are there any nice custom price and rule cards available for Eight Ball Deluxe apron?

Standard:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Bally/Bally_Eight_Ball_Deluxe_instruction_cards.zip

Custom, but low quality:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/card/cardd.htm

None:
http://www.pinballcards.com/
http://pinballboy.com/all-rule-cards/

Looks nice but no download?
http://s498.photobucket.com/user/iko3185/library/PinCardz?sort=6&page=2

Some in this tread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/8#post-2737174

PinCardz through Facebook or through this link. Click on the link for Eight Ball Deluxe. I bought them for my Eight Ball Deluxe and my Mata Hari. Outstanding quality. Warning there are also adult cards listed if there are kids or your wife is in the room!

http://madvoodoo.com/#/twoPane/category/2

Also, I was able to have them change some of the bonus rewards (for my Mata Hari) through their Facebook message link. So if their default scores don’t match what you need, should be able to request changes.

Starting to tear into my Eight Ball deluxe project. 2 questions for the group-
What kind of speaker would you recommend as a slight upgrade from the factory 4 ohm/15 watt ? Not spending too much money. (Amazon is your friend)
Also, does anybody know a good source for the volume pot attached to the coin door? Mine has the typical high pitch bleed through at higher levels.
Thanks

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ct2154-nd

Or try running it back and forth a few times. Often its just corroded wipers.

Thanks!

Bally did not use fish-paper on their leaf switches/blade switches

Couple questions for the group-
Would like to verify the blue-finned post numbers. I seem to have 9 short and 22 tall.
Also, if anyone has or can easily replicate the clear plastics under the light shields, I would love to purchase a set. I have the lower ones near the flippers, though as already mentioned, they are not a perfect fit. I have my old ones with all the bell stand offs, so can move those over to new ones. I see a few fplks have made their own out of 1/8" lexan which seems like should be durable. I don't really have the correct equipment to make my own.
Any help much appreciated.

Get a Dremel set. Find a local plastic supplier in your area and get a plastic cutting knife.
You can also use tin snips to cut the plastic into a rough shape.
Finally, get a drill with deferent bits. I hope this helps.
Note: if you got the money to burn you can have the plastics laser cut and or old school,
pay to have steel rule dies made and have the plastics press cut.

During my current restoration of a EBD I got kind of tired of looking at the schematics to find the color of a particular wire and where´s it´s supposed to go to so I created this "Tech Chart" that lists all coils, lamps and switches with their respective connectors, wires, transistors etc.
I checked everything thoroughly but there still might be errors in the document.

Maybe it´s of help to somebody else - otherwise just ignore.

If somebody wants to use the same format for another pinball of that era I´m happy to provide the editable docx format.

EBD TechChart.pdf

Time to blow out the last EBD playfield with overlay installed. $200 US to USA shipped. Has minor dust particles, or depressions under overlay in some areas. Alignment is off a bit mostly at the bottom big lenses. Over all a very nice replacement for a worn out playfield. Overlay is cold laminated, & no further protection is needed.

IMG_0005 (resized).JPG

IMG_0006 (resized).JPG

IMG_0007 (resized).JPG

IMG_0008 (resized).JPG

Here's the one I made during my EBD restoration.

Eight Ball Deluxe.pdf

Sold my last EBD with overlay installed.

I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the tech thread. Scoring question for the EB8 experts. I was playing around with a 4 player game. Sometimes some points are added to a shooters 2nd or 3rd ball before the ball is even fired. It's added as the ball is lifted up to the launch position. I've seen 3000 or I think 6000 points added. Is there a problem with the game or is there a legit reason why these points are being added? I'm still learning the scoring on this game. Thanks.

Bleed over from vibrating switch contacts? Does the game playfield pass the thump test?

Exactly what it was. It was a couple of the Deluxe targets being too close. So when the billiard targets reset, the Deluxe targets sometimes triggered adding 3000 or 6000 phantom points. Thanks.

Anyone else have this problem? It only happens on an extremely slow moving ball, but it's happened more than once.

This is a new CPR playfield and I've got the drop targets flush with the playfield. I also have the entire mech mounted with the targets as close to the front of the playfield as possible.

Oddly enough, I've got an operator friend's game I've been using as a reference and the same thing happens on his and the drop targets are a tad higher than the playfield on his.

I'm stumped.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

Yes, seems like a common issue on original and CPR.

It appears the easy solution is a piece of plexi (or even some cereal box cardboard in a pinch) cut and tacked to the inside bottom of the drop target mech to bring the drop target heads (when down) to be flush with the top of the playfield.

Happens on mine too, ALL the time. Gets frustrating, but I deal with it.

I've already added layers of mylar to get the targets flush with the playfield. The new targets must be a tad shorter than originals because they were a good 1/16" lower than the playfield. I may add a bit more and see what happens.

I find it interesting they didn't allow for adjustment like on the other drop target mech.

I have tought about drilling, tapping, and adding a screw and wing nut for adjustment. It would look nicer and work well.

Bally, on later revisions of their drop targets, added a metal "L" bracket in order to feel in the space between the drop targets.
Midway/Bally #0390-00100-0000 ; #0390-00100-00XF, BRACKET: FILLER ( 6 REQ'D.)

interesting.

Have any photos or reference on what this looks like? It would be cool to try and replicate.

I'm confused with the part numbers. You have two listed and say 6 required. Also, any idea if/where they're available?

Bally/Midway listed the part# two different ways on two deferent pages just giving the part #'s
(specs)
0.039 thick metal, 1/4" wide, 1 13/16" long (inside), 5/8" top (inside)
#5 holes (2 req'd)3/8" spaced: center too center.
The top center hole is approximately 17/32" from the bottom edge.
The bottom center hole is approximately 5/32" from the bottom edge.
Reference: Bally's Kings of Steel or Beat the Clock for part shape.

Thanks and I get it now. The pieces also make sense. The 5/8" part fills the gap in between the targets.

Does anyone know if these are available anywhere and also, can they be fitted on an older mech like on EBD?

Didn't somebody already mention that the CPR play fields are a bit thicker than the originals? Referring to t-nuts being a tad short for catching machine threaded screws. Could be the clear coat makes them thicker. If that is so, wouldn't it also makes sense the drop targets would not line up with that top surface the same way. Possibly being a bit lower and causing this issue?

Yes! The part was made for Bally drop target assemblies. You should have bought some back in 1984
when they were available.

Now you tell me.

Maybe not the prettiest, but they work. Wish I could have laser cut them.

Not sure I like the look. I might leave them until one of my friends asks, "WTF are those?" Then they get yanked and I deal with the ball traps.

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

image (resized).jpeg

I think they look ok. I wouldn't mind having them on mine. Nice job BK

I need a set PLEASE!

Hi Bryan,

I had the same problem with my EBD. I used two strips of 1/2" self-adhesive wood veneer which I placed under the drop targets ends for the length of the sheet metal Bally assembly (started with one, then went to two). That solved the problem for the next 30-40 years.

All I had to do was to raise the drop targets ~1/16th of and inch and the balls would never settle there again.

-Nate

Just do the NVRAM & be done with it forever

Picked up an EBD '81 version that has all red ringed posts instead of blue. Doesn't look like they were added in recent years. Anyone ever see this game with red posts?

I have but it was one of the first 400 and also had the solid white pop bumpers. Of course those probably would have been replaced with translucent orange by now. I don't suppose yours has a plastic playfield? There weren't many of those but I think they came with red also.

Post a pic! I want to see it...

Serial #1475

2ACB9067-6D3A-496E-9A34-7D8E9051BC7C (resized).jpeg

Wood playfield. Only some prototypes had plastic

Pretty cool! My understanding is that they started with S/N 1000 so that would make yours a pretty early one. My ‘81 is like 11xxx I think.

Better get some plastic lane guides on there! (Where the ball feeds to the flippers)... and some new in line targets too...
The red doesn't look too bad! I thought it would be worse...

Mine is in Red too. I prefer the red over the blue. And, of course, long ago, the upper lane guides were replaced (or originally were) translucent red. Blue never looked right to me on all the re-releases. But then I have been playing this one since 1981!. Yes, White Bumper caps broke their tabs so Translucent got purchased at the Distributor in the 80's. since they were out of Amber rings, they sold me EBD amber caps with Red Centaur Rings. Been that way ever since and I have always liked the look.

The Special inserts were Milky Red, not translucent red like the NOS Bally playfield I installed back in the late 80's.

If course, I have always wondered if the game would look better with Green Posts since, after all, it is a Pool Table Game.