Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982Quoted from Blitzburgh99:I have a CPR Gold Eight Ball Deluxe playfield that I would like to trade for a really nice Fireball Classic. Would be perfect pair next to my 84EBD. PM if interested.
Now available for sale. $1000 OBO. PM me if you want.
Added over 7 years ago: ***sale pending***
Added over 7 years ago: STILL AVAILABLE
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?
The light boards are connected to the harness via a .156 size plugs. You'll have to identify and gather the right wires to assemble the connectors. Shouldn't be too bad except for the bottom one. You're likely to be short on that one, unless the harness is run basically the same. If that is true, you shouldn't have any trouble. Good luck with it and let us know if we can help.
Shawn
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?
The light boards are connected to the harness via a .156 size plugs. You'll have to identify and gather the right wires to assemble the connectors. Shouldn't be too bad except for the bottom one. You're likely to be short on that one, unless the harness is run basically the same. If that is true, you shouldn't have any trouble. Good luck with it and let us know if we can help.
Shawn
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:but it appears the connectors on the end in the head are not the same as the 81.
There are some minor differences but nothing that can't be bypassed or overcome. As one example, the dedicated solenoid lines that branch off the 81 are placed opposite in the plug of the one in the 84. I made one of these to be able to test an 81 harness in my 84 machine.
Shawn
Quoted from PinballTilt:I also just realized that the solenoid expander board needs that 555 lamp to function. I think the wire to that has been cut. Can someone send or post a picture of that area to me? Specifically this is a le if that makes a difference.
They must have had an issue previously with the solenoids and who knows what else got screwed up until I troubleshoot
Can someone pm me a picture of the solenoid expander board and light area? The previous owner hacked that up and I want to confirm the wire colors for the light. My board and solenoid arrive tomorrow and i would like to play this game for the first time. Thanks
So, two bulbs in the pictures. The exposed one is the solenoid light, the other is the apron credit light. Both are powered by a double 18ga purple wire. The solenoid lamps other side is blue with a green chaser. The apron credit lamps other side is yellow with a white chaser.
Shawn
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Has anyone, (or is it even possible) installed the light boards from an 84 version playfield in an 81 version?
I've got an 81 version game I've started to restore and I recently picked up a mostly populated 84 playfield with the light boards. I was originally going to use the 84 playfield harness in my 81 game but it appears the connectors on the end in the head are not the same as the 81.
My '81 appears to have an '84 playfield with the light boards. I can take pictures of anything you might need to see. I'm about to get pretty familiar with it.
Quoted from ryan1234:Any fellow EBD owners know where/how to get new roms for free play? Whould love to hear from someone who has done it and what was all involved.
Thanks
Ryan
Andy spitler can make the free roms.
Hello,
Have a pole for EBD Pinitech UNO white led displays.
What would you choose?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-pinitech-displays-what-color
Quoted from alimerick:Hello,
Have a pole for EBD Pinitech UNO white led displays.
What would you choose?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-pinitech-displays-what-color
Amber for me...
Quoted from alimerick:Hello,
Have a pole for EBD Pinitech UNO white led displays.
What would you choose?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-pinitech-displays-what-color
Amber all day long.
1st time post - long time stalker... I need a little help. I've been restoring an EBD LE for about 8 months now. It was in rough shape for sure, but it's on the road to recovery. All/ most of the electronics work again, and the game functioned correctly enough for me to go to the next step, which was paint touch up and clear coat. I'm at a point now that with Fall approaching fast I need to get the final clear coats done before it gets cold.
So here's the question: Does anyone have files that I can use to print slide decals via color laser printer for the following items?
20,000 40,000 & 60,000 (black font) going up the right side to the 8-ball drop target
5,000 & 10,000 in front of 2X & 3X drop targets.
I have scans of my playfield, but these are too bad and I've no skills at Photoshop. I have a laser printer and the slide decal paper however. Here are some pics of what I started with, and with a little help, I'll post a few after pictures to show what this forum and members can accomplish.
I kind of miss the reasoning for some of the "free play"options used by many.
I can understand why some might want to just push the button and not have to drop a coin into a machine used in a home environment.
When you take a machine to a show you also might want it set to free play.
But you don't need to do any mods or hacks to achieve this.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:But you don't need to do any mods or hacks to achieve this.
How does one achieve this without any modifications? Hope you aren't suggesting setting a ridiculously low replay score to get credits. That may be fine for shows but I still like to try to achieve a "free" game at the normal scoring levels even in the home environment.
Quoted from Mageek:How does one achieve this without any modifications? Hope you aren't suggesting setting a ridiculously low replay score to get credits. That may be fine for shows but I still like to try to achieve a "free" game at the normal scoring levels even in the home environment.
Free play roms.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Free play roms.
That would be a modification would it not ? The point made by Gatecrasher was without any mods or hacks
Quoted from Mageek:That would be a modification would it not ? The point made by Gatecrasher was without any mods or hacks
I guess it's a matter of opinion. You're not changing the physical aspect of the game by changing roms, you can always switch back.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I guess it's a matter of opinion. You're not changing the physical aspect of the game by changing roms, you can always switch back.
True.
Perhaps the picture I posted above needs explanation. It is simply the coin mech switch tie wrapped to the credit button. Only takes 5 minutes to move one of the switches and costs the price of a tie wrap. It can easily be put back in it's original coin acceptor position for pay to play.
Quoted from Mageek:Perhaps the picture I posted above needs explanation.
For me, no, I thought it was a great idea. Good for pinball shows and what not.
Quoted from vec-tor:For me, no, I thought it was a great idea. Good for pinball shows and what not.
It is clever.
Quoted from Mageek:How does one achieve this without any modifications? Hope you aren't suggesting setting a ridiculously low replay score to get credits. That may be fine for shows but I still like to try to achieve a "free" game at the normal scoring levels even in the home environment.
That's exactly how you do it. Set the 1st replay level to 100 points and then make the 2nd replay level what the 1st would normally be and make the 3rd level what the 2nd would normally be.
That way you get the free play plus still have full functionality of the free game scoring levels. No mods needed at all and you retain full functionality of the replay features too. Absolutely no difference from wiring up a switch except you only have two replay score levels instead of the possibility of having three.
On the other hand when you activate the free play function of an aftermarket MPU it disables the free playing scoring altogether. Same goes for most of the hacked ROMs I've seen. Even if there are reprogrammed ROMs that enable free play + still allow replay scoring for additional free games, you haven't achieved anything that you couldn't have by setting the 1st replay scoring level low.
In my home environment though I leave all the coin mechs fully functional exactly as they were intended. In other words, there is no free play. You must insert the quarter to play. That's what makes game play the most fun for me since that's the way I was playing these machines when they were brand-new.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:In my home environment though I leave all the coin mechs fully functional exactly as they were intended. In other words, there is no free play. You must insert the quarter to play. That's what makes game play the most fun for me since that's the way I was playing these machines when they were brand-new.
Bingo!
Quoted from solderboy:So here's the question: Does anyone have files that I can use to print slide decals via color laser printer for the following items?
20,000 40,000 & 60,000 (black font) going up the right side to the 8-ball drop target
5,000 & 10,000 in front of 2X & 3X drop targets.
I have scans of my playfield, but these are too bad and I've no skills at Photoshop. I have a laser printer and the slide decal paper however. Here are some pics of what I started with, and with a little help, I'll post a few after pictures to show what this forum and members can accomplish.
A lot depends on what colors your printer is generating. I had the same wear on my PF and generated a wide spectrum of color in photoshop, then picked the closest one. I can send you the files...the folder is quite large so PM me your email address and I'll set up a dropbox link with the uncompressed files.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:... I wish they would have made more plastics sets too! The CPR plastics sets were the best ever made IMO. ...
As part of my EBD restoration I have scanned my plastics set and made the clear protectors. Matter of protecting my valuable plastics...
What I did is redraw the borders in Illustrator whilst adding a little protective edge where the ball can hit the plastic, and stick to the original border where it can't (bumpers, outer edges, ...). Actually exactly what Pinbits and the likes do.
DPU_0519 (resized).jpgDPU_0520 (resized).jpg
I will add the clear plastics (ball guides etc) and the technical plastics (f.i. the high voltage plastic on the rectifier board). Next the set will be laser cut in a shop nearby.
If anyone would like to protect his plastics set by such protectors and knows a place in his area to have them laser cut: simply send me a PM and I'll send you the Illustrator file. It's free 
BTW, here's my restoration thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-ebd-screaming-for-attention-g94
does anybody here happen to know what screws are needed to hold the switch stack to the bumper body?
Quoted from BigLebowski:does anybody here happen to know what screws are needed to hold the switch stack to the bumper body?
#5-40, 1 1/8" long, round Philips head. Back oxide. x 2
--- plus base plate.
Quoted from bbriese:A lot depends on what colors your printer is generating. I had the same wear on my PF and generated a wide spectrum of color in photoshop, then picked the closest one. I can send you the files...the folder is quite large so PM me your email address and I'll set up a dropbox link with the uncompressed files.
Thanks so much. I will PM you. I can probably handle changing the color spectrum in PS, and I figure I'll need to refresh my laser printer cartridges as well to get the best quality color.
Can somebody please share a picture of the rollover button switch? That switch is driving me crazy because it doesn´t seem strong enough to push the star back up every time. So maybe I´m missing something here.
And a picture of the 8-ball drop target assembly would be helpful, too. Mine looks like this:
Guess I´m missing some kind of spring here.....
Your spring looks rather.. stretched? Here's mine with target up and target down.
IMG_9606 (resized).JPG
IMG_9605 (resized).JPG
For your rollover, first check that the star portion is complete. That the knob on the bottom has not broken off? Also, check that the screws holding the switch down are tight and not loose. That would be your most likely cause. Also possible, the thing is jammed full of old wax and just needs a little cleaning.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Your spring looks rather.. stretched? Here's mine with target up and target down.
For your rollover, first check that the star portion is complete. That the knob on the bottom has not broken off? Also, check that the screws holding the switch down are tight and not loose. That would be your most likely cause. Also possible, the thing is jammed full of old wax and just needs a little cleaning.
aaah, that looks quite different. Happen to know what part# that spring has?
Re. the switch: the star is complete (and new) and the screws sit tight. Do you have a view from the side? Is there just the contact leaf or does it have a second leaf behind to kind of reinforce it?
Quoted from BigLebowski:aaah, that looks quite different. Happen to know what part# that spring has?
Re. the switch: the star is complete (and new) and the screws sit tight. Do you have a view from the side? Is there just the contact leaf or does it have a second leaf behind to kind of reinforce it?
To get more tension on the star roll-over, remove the leaf switch and bend the upper leaf upward with a switch adjustment tool or thin needle nosed pliers. You want to bend it at the base where the stacks are. You may have to tweak it a little as you don't want too stiff either. Also with switch removed, make sure the star moves freely. It should drop on it's own with the pf laying horizontally. If this is a new CPR pf, you may need to clean out some clear from the star insert, CAREFULLY! You need about 1/16 spacing between the contacts.
Quoted from BigLebowski:Can somebody please share a picture of the rollover button switch? That switch is driving me crazy because it doesn´t seem strong enough to push the star back up every time. So maybe I´m missing something here.
And a picture of the 8-ball drop target assembly would be helpful, too. Mine looks like this:Guess I´m missing some kind of spring here.....
Looks like the wrong spring. The spring part number is SP-100-350. It looks as if the extra tension on the short spring is causing the target to pull forward and causing it to bind, which is why the rubber band was placed to help pull it down.
Hello, I am new to this club and happy to be here.
My situation is the playfield is pretty good but the backbox needs some work. I found a guy locally that said he could help rebuild it. The top front piece is missing and the right side is loose. Also the bottom piece that has the hinge is separated
Is there any way that someone could post a bunch of pictures of what the backbox should look like? Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
Quoted from scampcamp:Hello, I am new to this club and happy to be here.
My situation is the playfield is pretty good but the backbox needs some work. I found a guy locally that said he could help rebuild it. The top front piece is missing and the right side is loose. Also the bottom piece that has the hinge is separated
Is there any way that someone could post a bunch of pictures of what the backbox should look like? Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
The head support should be permanently mounted to the base cab. I see these come loose quite often due to the fact that only 3 nails were placed on the back edge and a few staples on the sides. I'm currently rebuilding one now. Here's a head that I restored years back. The black trim was so bad that I removed it and took trim from a Star trek head and used them instead. I'm pretty sure I saved the old ones and you are welcomed to them if you pay the shipping. They are rough but maybe you can have a carpenter replicate them. Basically all the Bally solid state heads are the same, except for Xenon and Space Invaders since they have a hinged backglass. One of my EBD project games has real bad head like yours, even worse, so I'm using a Flash Gordon head to replace it.
Before and after:
Quoted from Lovef2k:The head support should be permanently mounted to the base cab. I see these come loose quite often due to the fact that only 3 nails were placed on the back edge and a few staples on the sides. I'm currently rebuilding one now. Here's a head that I restored years back. The black trim was so bad that I removed it and took trim from a Star trek head and used them instead. I'm pretty sure I saved the old ones and you are welcomed to them if you pay the shipping. They are rough but maybe you can have a carpenter replicate them. Basically all the Bally solid state heads are the same, except for Xenon and Space Invaders since they have a hinged backglass. One of my EBD project games has real bad head like yours, even worse, so I'm using a Flash Gordon head to replace it.
Before and after:
Thank for the pictures & the offer on the trim. I may take them if the guy helping me with the woodwork thinks I need them. Do you think there is any cabinet art out there as in stencils or decals if I were to need them?
Quoted from scampcamp:Thank for the pictures & the offer on the trim. I may take them if the guy helping me with the woodwork thinks I need them. Do you think there is any cabinet art out there as in stencils or decals if I were to need them?
Yes there are stencils available. I'm using these on my current resto: http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=486
LMK about the trim.
I need to put a new connector on A5-J3; does anyone have a source for 28 position 0.100" IDC's?
The biggest I currently have are 16 position. While I could use two, I would rather keep it all as one connector.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Yes there are stencils available. I'm using these on my current resto: http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=486
LMK about the trim.
PM sent
Quoted from mjwilliams:I need to put a new connector on A5-J3; does anyone have a source for 28 position 0.100" IDC's?
The biggest I currently have are 16 position. While I could use two, I would rather keep it all as one connector.
Big Daddy has them: http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
Quoted from Lovef2k:The head support should be permanently mounted to the base cab. I see these come loose quite often due to the fact that only 3 nails were placed on the back edge and a few staples on the sides. I'm currently rebuilding one now. Here's a head that I restored years back. The black trim was so bad that I removed it and took trim from a Star trek head and used them instead. I'm pretty sure I saved the old ones and you are welcomed to them if you pay the shipping. They are rough but maybe you can have a carpenter replicate them. Basically all the Bally solid state heads are the same, except for Xenon and Space Invaders since they have a hinged backglass. One of my EBD project games has real bad head like yours, even worse, so I'm using a Flash Gordon head to replace it.
Before and after:
Two things to note: First, hinged Vector head is also the same as Xenon and Space Invaders.
Second, not all Bally SS heads are the same. Early heads like Playboy had a 1" deeper body than later heads like Centaur or Fathom. Not a big deal unless you're paying $100 for stencils that won't fit a substitute backbox.
At least two very early SS games, Evel Kneivel and Night Rider, had backboxes with hinged backglass frames, similar to those on Xenon/SI/Vector but with a piano hinge instead of door hinges. The camlock was also located in a different spot than later SS's. You can see this at the photos on IPDB.
Quoted from jibmums:Two things to note: First, hinged Vector head is also the same as Xenon and Space Invaders.
Second, not all Bally SS heads are the same. Early heads like Playboy had a 1" deeper body than later heads like Centaur or Fathom. Not a big deal unless you're paying $100 for stencils that won't fit a substitute backbox.
At least two very early SS games, Evel Kneivel and Night Rider, had backboxes with hinged backglass frames, similar to those on Xenon/SI/Vector but with a piano hinge instead of door hinges. The camlock was also located in a different spot than later SS's. You can see this at the photos on IPDB.
OK I stand corrected
Quoted from Gatecrasher:Big Daddy has them: http://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
Thank you very much! I wasn't looking forward to the 250 minimum quantity numbers I was finding everywhere else!
Quoted from mjwilliams:Thank you very much! I wasn't looking forward to the 250 minimum quantity numbers I was finding everywhere else!
I see there is a minimum order at Big Daddy though. But I can usually find $30 worth of stuff I need.
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