PM sent.

Here are the pics as promised.

The playfield is a brand-new CPR "Gold" and the backglass is genuine Bally NOS (the backglass was the one in the frame I had for sale earlier).

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Why even cut them when you don't have to?

Here are your options for eliminating the annoying noise from the coin lockout mechanism:

#1) Just remove the flapper and the spring. It take less than a minute to do. This mechanically disables the mechanism and you will no longer hear the sound. The coil will still be energized periodically but that doesn't hurt anything. This takes maybe 30 seconds to do and is easy. Fully reversible too with no loose wires.

#2) If you want to disable the mechanism electrically just take a small screwdriver and remove the contact at connector pin #8 on the solenoid driver connector J2. This takes about 10 seconds to do and is also clean and easily reversed.

#3) Cut or de-solder the wires. This is the easiest (and shittiest) way to do it but it works.

I have a CPR Gold Eight Ball Deluxe playfield that I would like to trade for a really nice Fireball Classic. Would be perfect pair next to my 84EBD. PM if interested.

I just finished installing the last 3 overlays to my EBD's. They get painted on Tuesday, & ready to ship on Wednesday. 2 previous guys interested & get to pick. If interested let me know. These are the last ones for sale.

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For those who are swapping a CPR EBD pf, this pf is about 1/16" thicker than original. This may present a problem with the screws reaching the threads of the tee nuts. I have seen 2 different tee nuts used on early bally games. One has a 1/4 in. barrel and the other a 9/32 barrel. I know the difference is only 1/32 but it make a difference if using the original screws for the posts. The 9/32 tee nut is hard to find but I found them at a decent price from fastenermart.com . There are 2 different machine screw lengths used on EBD so be careful when doing swap. The difference is small so you have to look at them closely. Another option is to countersink the area where the tee nut will be installed but that's a lot of extra work.

Fastenermart also has the fender washers used inside the cabinet for the coin door bolts (1/8x5/8) and the washer for the power supply mounting plate (3/8x1 1/4x 1/8)

I had new trim made for the pf. I wanted a wood look instead of the black. Trying to bring out the wood from the pf outlanes. I had the special cuts done at a local woodworker shop. $50 total for the wood and labor, not bad. Stain color is Minwax bombay mahogany.

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That looks interesting.

Does it blend well with the outlanes & can you post pics after installation ?

I may want to do something similar during my EBD resto.

Also, is that oak wood?

Thanks also for the CPR playfield heads up.
I got my pf from CPR a few weeks ago, but haven't done anything with it yet (letting it cure).

Man, I would keep it original. But then I suppose it's not permanent & you could swap it back.

Think I'll glue a few dozen miniature billiard balls all over my new plastics & mod it up ...

I did that back in 1986. I used oak and Minwax. I hope you like the look.

It does blend well with the brown by the outlanes. Yes it is solid oak. I have seen this look on other games but it's usually a veneer instead. I will take a few pics when the wood is dry, I can just sit them on the pf. And yes, I can switch them back to black if necessary. I have 3 coats of stain on them now and the color is much deeper.

I was comparing my plastics set with some of the dimples on the top side of the pf. Some didn't match up. There are a few sources of repro plastics so yours can vary. Don't predrill any holes before installing the plastics. I typically place the plastics on the studs that have the machine screw thread. You can't change this position and then you can predrill the holes once you are certain the plastic is in place. This mainly pertains to the 2 large uppers, the one that covers the multiplier drops and the 8 ball drop. Actually don't predrill any holes before you are certain where each part goes. VAriations in pf's from one mfr. to another can cause holes to not match up. This is due to the fact that the donor pf used on the repro could be different and/or not transfered correctly.

Thanks for the info Lovef2k.

I bought my plastic set from Bay Area Amusements so I will see how things line up with my CPR pf.

Looks like I will be making a few adjustments before committing to drilling holes, etc.

Thatsa pinball !!

Glad to help. I swapped 6 CPR pf's and you need to pay attention to detail. Refer to old pf as a guide for placement of drop target banks, flipper mounts etc. etc.

So I'm working through the issues on this le of mine and whoever owned this previously liked to splice wires and cover with electrical tape. Sometimes I can't figure out where the wires originally went to, so I may be asking for some pictures, if someone could help it would be appreciated.

What is the purpose of the solenoids on the side drop bank? It appears they cause the drop to be knocked down by the solenoid, but why? Is this built in to the gameplay somehow? I'm attaching a picture. It appears the coil locked on at some point and the guy 'fixed' it by cutting the wires.

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This is to reset which targets are up and down for a multi player game. They are not used on a single player game.

Yes, these coils will drop individual drop targets...

Say for instance, player one has 1, 3 and 5 dropped player 2 has 10 and 12 dropped. The machine remembers this, to when player 1 is back up to play, 1, 3, and 5 will drop, prior to game play.

The 7 mini coils are known as memory coils. Say you drop targets 1, 2 and 3 and the ball drains. Player 2 will start with all drops in the up position. He knocks down 9 10 and 11 then his ball drains. When ball 2 starts for your turn, the bank resets and then the mini coils will knock down the 3 targets you dropped on the previous ball.

I can supply pics for you, just lmk which area you need.

That makes sense. Thanks for the responses everyone.

I have seen EBD's where people have installed the incorrect coils. Some of the coils on this game are controlled by the "solenoid expander" board which is the small green board under the playfield next to the lower left flipper. Any coils from this circuit must have 3 solder tabs on it. Verify from the manual that all your coils are the correct type. Any variation of these coils will cause major problems. Including locked on coils.

The small coils are also used to drop automatically 1 or 2 targets (depending of the condition of the dip switch #8 located in the CPU) when a player completes A, B, C & D. This is a very good help to lit the balls in the rack (1-7 or 9-15).

What F2K said! 2 diodes, 3 terminal on the coils in that circuit. If not after correction can replace Q 13 on the driver board.

I picked up this EBD 1984 a few months ago and thought I do a restoration. I bought a CPR playfield but also touched up missing paint on the original and cleared it, here is a comparison. I really didn't like the shades of Blue and Green on the CPR as opposed to the original. It turned out well enough that I decided to use the original.

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Here is the finished product. The back box lights are Comet Retro's , they will be coming out they create hot spots. BTW I modified the flipper mechs to Williams.

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Your playfield turned out really nice!

Yeah you really need to use frosted bulbs, or use these and paint the flat tops:

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd.htm

I'm using them in my Xenon and love them, nice light spread and no spotting.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/xenon-with-comet-leds-and-custom-upgrades#post-2330430

Thanks

They are actually frosted, I guess I'll sell them to the guy that recommended them

I left the backglass illuminated with the original bulbs #555:
https://www.facebook.com/pg/pinballmaniallc/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1686176201422502

Here ya go..

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With game in attract mode, run the self diagnostic test. The first press of the red button will flash the controlled lamps, you should also see the lamp under the pf by the SEB board flash, when it does, the SEB board relay should click loud enough to hear. If it makes no sounds then it's probably bad. The outhole kicker is on the SEB circuit,, so if the SEB is not working properly, no out hole.

Check for coil voltage at the SEB. Check header pins for cold solder joints. If all good, go to coil self test, I think it's the second press of the red button. There's a chart inside the head with the ID numbers for the coils(solenoids). The ID number will flash on the display at the same time the coil fires. If any coils do not fire, wright the numbers down and post here.

If all coils fire except the outhole coil, then you have a wire or transistor issue. And possibly a connector issue.

AgentX
If the out hole is wired correctly and the coil does not fire but the
top drop target does, then change the lamp bridge.

Lamp bridge?

I have 1 last EBD playfield installed with overlay. Cold laminated for protection. My best alignment for light lenses. $400 US shipped to USA/Canada. If you have a poor playfield, this is your chance for a upgrade. ships in new double box.

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YES, the lamp bridge!!!!
Put the game in lamp test and listen to the solenoid expander relay.
Does it chatter??????? or does it click snappy???.

I meant, what is the bridge? Is it part of the SEB?

Does one not know what a bridge rectifier is?
Then one needs to take electronic curriculum.

Thanks for the help. I've got to check the manual still as you suggested. I'm attaching a picture of what I found when I removed the bank from the playfield. What I found is that the top two solenoids were the three terminal cv solenoids and the bottom 5 were cj solenoids. Perhaps the coil that burnt up did so because it only had one diode. So I should order a q13 then also?

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Ouch!

I also just realized that the solenoid expander board needs that 555 lamp to function. I think the wire to that has been cut. Can someone send or post a picture of that area to me? Specifically this is a le if that makes a difference.

They must have had an issue previously with the solenoids and who knows what else got screwed up until I troubleshoot

There's no need to remove the entire bank from the pf. Just unplug the 9 pin connector, remove 2 screws from each side that holds the memory coil bracket in place. The coils look correct, drops for ball 1-9 and 2-10 are controlled by the SEB, that's why they have the extra lug. Make sure the plungers for the other 6 memory coils move freely. I don't think the SEB would cause a coil to fry, only fail to switch from one coil to the other if it did fail. I would suspect the driver transistor.

With the memory coils unplugged, do the other coils fire during self test?

The schematic is your friend.

Yes indeed, it's like that foreign female friend that I rarely can relate to or understand.

I think in this case I understand though. The two drop target resets and drops 1,2,9,10 seem to require coils with two diodes and three terminals. The rest of the coils are only 1 diode and the two terminal seems to be the right type. Can anyone confirm? I'm attaching a picture of that area of the schematic. Thanks

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Yes that's correct. The SEB controls 6 coils in all as shown in schematic. The SEB relay switches from one line to the other depending on what the game is calling for. The extra diode on these coils prevents the other coils from being energized. The reason for the SEB is that EBD exceeds the standard 16 coils on most games. The solenoid driver board is only capable of running 16 coil circuits. EBD has 19 if you include the coin door lock out and knocker. The SEB takes the extra 3 coils plus 3 out of the 16 and splits the circuit between those 6. The 6 that were chosen are not needed during the fast parts of the game play so there's time for the SEB to react.

I have had many EBD's and have seen burnt memory coils before. So not uncommon. Replace the corresponding transistor.

Has anyone, (or is it even possible) installed the light boards from an 84 version playfield in an 81 version?

I've got an 81 version game I've started to restore and I recently picked up a mostly populated 84 playfield with the light boards. I was originally going to use the 84 playfield harness in my 81 game but it appears the connectors on the end in the head are not the same as the 81.

I have redone the wire harness around the top left flipper.

My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?

For the top flipper area, I might have added or cut some new wire for the GI.
It was done along time ago. But for your case, you might have to add a lamp
wire extension or two here and there. I do not know, the PC boards for
the Eight Ball Deluxe was not available at the time I did mine.