The Bally reference part number #ASE-2836-2 for mini-posts, however as has been done in the past, you have to count the total number of 1 1/16 and 1 3/16 inch posts used in the game, which I cannot remember off hand, but I guarantee has been done many times.
I am sure another will chime in if they desire.
They are easy to identify on inspection otherwise.

Something that was not mentioned in the question was the version of the game for the playfield swap.

All '81 and '82 versions used "finned" or "ringed" mini-posts, many times there blue color turned to red (or pink) due to dyes that absorbed UV light badly, so some did not realize the original color. Xenon was the worst offender in terms of titles. I have seen several that did use red posts from the factory, which was a complete oddity on what was on hand at the time at the time of production.
The '84 version actually quite a few with "star" or "jeweled" mini-posts used from Bally-Midway, but I also saw a few that had "finned" posts as well from the factory dependent on when the playfields were constructed, but transferred to the "classic" production run.
That is why some '84 games actually shipped with the prototype white pop bumper caps, based on overrun of the playfields, but the final wire harnesses are different, as well as the '82.

Most "purists" prefer the "finned" mini-posts which are more expensive, usually in the color blue.

EBD used 2 sizes. The short ones go under the upper plastics where no screws or studs go through the top of the plastics. I can't recall how many but I will check and report back.

I believe it's:

22 Long
9 Short

Has anyone received a Bronze playfield from CPR?

If so, how does it look? Please post photos.

Still waiting for my gold version, ordered two days before the silvers were made available (I was on the waiting list). I imagine it will be a few more days before the bronze PFs start showing up.

I too was on the waiting list but there were no golds or silvers available. I really want to see a detailed example of the bronze before I buy. I'm thinking the blemishes might too distracting for me personally, at the bronze level.

So you want to scratch-build an EBD? While most components can be found somewhere between here, epay and all of the fine establishments online, there are a few bits that are getting increasingly hard to come by. It's a daunting task and definitely NOT for the faint of heart. Right off the top, you're going to need one of these -
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Got it? Great! Me too! Another essential would be one of these-
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And of course after building out the play field you'll need to top it off with a set of these- (Not hard to find... yet!)
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Oh, and if it's to be a true-to-form '84 edition you will have to find a set of these-
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Now assuming you have assembled a cabinet, legs, head, boards, et cetera ad infinitum, you're gonna need some wiring...

This is the back box interconnect for EBD ver '80.
EBD Upper (resized).jpg

Along with all that is this part that connects power from the rectifier J-3 and 4 to the harness and boards. This was integrated into one piece for the '84 version and is the only real difference between the two along with a couple of wire placement changes in the connector to the back box lights. This is all new construction with trifurcon connectors in molex housings with fresh off the shelf wire and fully tested in my own machine. (No IDC!!) All properly labeled and keyed for accurate placement. Full disclosure, the 23 and 28 place .100 molex connectors are becoming unobtanium so there may be a 19 with a 4 superglued together and 25 with a 3 superglued together. I have managed to purchase some 23s for now but unless you know where to get 28s, this is the way it has to be.
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Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

For the lower end, we have this monster. The only difference between this and the '84 version is the method of connecting the harness to inlet power and the service outlet. (Flipper switches and tilt panel items are NOT included.)
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This is how they connected the service outlet in 1980.
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And in 1984.
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Now since these are being hand built and fully tested I can only knock them out so fast. (And am already 4 orders behind.) Since Pinside Shops doesn't really have a system for sign up now and pay later I would hesitate to put them in there for fear someone will buy one and be mad that it won't show up for a couple of weeks. What I will do is build them in the order I get PMs for them and rest assured Pinside will get their 5% of each one. Pinside has generated a ton of sales for me and I am forever grateful and will gladly forward on the fee.

Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

Also available:

Back box wiring that powers and connects the GI and controlled lamps.
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And this pigtail that connects the aux lamp board to the lights on the play field. This is only on the '80 version as the '84 version integrated it. If you have one that's iffy or torn up, you can replace it.
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With enough interest, I would probably do a run of play field harnesses, say a minimum of 5 people at probably $250 each.

Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

If anyone else is wondering about the white nylon star for the rollover with the new CPR playfields, here is the story as told by Kevin Wayte from CPR:

Nobody has been getting stars for the last 10+ playfield runs. We just ran out of them eventually. We don't use that molding factory any more (the one with the tool in Chicago) ... we have long switched to their competition. Unfortunately they don't have a star mold. So we've never topped up since about 1.5 years ago.

so where is the best place to get star roll-over inserts?

I wasn't trying to suggest that they are hard to get; I assume that they can be obtained from most of the usual places. I was just letting everyone know that they do not come automatically supplied with the CPR playfields any more.

Any place that sells pinball parts. They are inexpensive and easy to find.

Hi All. I am looking to buy a new CPR 8BD playfield. Prefer gold, but will seriously consider silver or bronze. PM me if you want to sell!
Love the game. Really want to do a swap and keep it forever!

PBR

I'm trying to pick up an LE this weekend. Can someone with an LE measure the height with the upper head removed? Hoping I can haul it in a Honda Fit.

Got the answer. 31".

Update and b4/after pics on my machine coming sometime next week (I've had it since i was a kid in the 80's and it sat untouched for over two decades). It's coming along and playing but for now, a question for other EBD owners..

Im In search of m-1330-184-11 which is the clear plastic that divides the multiplier lane from the rollover lane. towards the bottom a chunk is missing that prevents the final support from having a spot.

Also m-1330-189-4 if the price is right. has a bite out of it but not a big deal. i can live w it.

Thanks!

Jay

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If you are handy, and if you have a local plastic supply shop, you could fabricate
that part by copying it upside down on new raw material and hand cutout to the
shape you need. The end piece that is missing is cupped. Or, take masking tape
and copy the top part of the plastic and then transferring it to the raw plastic material and cut out. I use cereal box chipboard material has a pattern in order to get the right shape and test fit before transferring it onto the plastic raw material.

Just buy a full new set of repro plastics. Easy peezy!

EBD PF's in da house! Call me insane but I plan to do 4 EBD restos. 2 of these are CPR golds and the other 2 are rescreened originals. The first of the 4 restos is about 2/3 finished and sold. I will start the other 2 simultaneously beginning with the main cab rehabs. They will be for sale at some point when finished. These will all be the '81 version. The 4th game, hopefully a keeper, will get new cab, back box and coin door wiring harnesses from Third Coast Pinball.

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Trying to figure out why mine occasionally asks me to "get the 15 ball" even in one player mode. Thoughts?

Also, anyone know a good place for bulb sockets? Specifically the ones for the orange hats and then a few under inserts etc. I'd like a variety as most of mine barely work and some are dead.
I wouldn't know which part number at Marco.
Thanks!

PM sent

Big shout out to Gatecrasher for supplying me with some EBD resto parts.
Great quality & prices, and received items in just a few days.

Highly recommended.

Thanks for the endorsement Humph!

I'm getting ready to move here again in a few weeks for my job so if anyone needs any parts now would be the time to order. I might not be able to ship any for a while in a couple weeks until after I get resettled.

My complete EBD restoration kits include the following signature parts:

EBD uses the following (all are essential to a 1st class restoration):

>Polished stainless lift channel & 3-pc. plastic edge trim for 1/8" thick backglass = $20.99
>Polished stainless shooter lane arch = $4.99
>Polished stainless shooter lane ball stop "L" bracket = $4.99
>Stainless coin door & side rail carriage bolt set = $9.99
Shipping to USA via USPS Priority Mail = $10.30

TOTAL = $51.26

International shipping available (actual shipping costs with no extra handling fees) the lowest prices possible via USPS!

From the looks of your pictures and your description it sounds to me like you best course of action would be to totally strip the playfield of all the plastics, posts, rubbers, screws, etc. and replace all of the playfield plastics with new from a reproduction set. They cost about $150.

While the stuff is removed clean the playfield up nice and wax it. Then clean all the plastic posts and screws/washers which look like they are slightly corroded.

When you reassemble everything you will be amazed at how much better they thing looks and plays. If you bite the bullet now and do it right you won't have to fool with it for years.

Keep any of the salvageable playfield plastics as emergency back-ups in case you need one down the road.

This is what is referred to as "shopping" the playfield. Not a full restoration but a thorough maintenance/cosmetic cleaning procedure.

A machine like Eight Ball Deluxe is well-worth the cost of the playfield plastic set and the work required to PM it.

I just joined the club with an LE. Pictures coming soon. Great condition original playfield with almost no wear. Once I post pictures I'm planning on asking you friendly folks what you suggest to keep the playfield in great condition. I'm thinking a good clean, small touchups with createx, then 2 part clear from a can. Also curious what the value of a great original playfield is.

Unfortunately - someone carelessly cut the harnesses and power cord at some point. So I'm going to have to solder and shrink wrap those all back together. Supposedly it's been playing fine in this guys basement for 25 years with electrical taped joints though. Only other negative is the guy never changed the battery, so I was able to pick it up cheap because it wasn't working due to acid damage. Thinking about getting the kit from GPE to rebuild the damaged components.

Edit- pictures can be seen here
pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/50477

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I wouldn't clear-coat it with a spray can.

Go buy one of the new PETG playfield protectors. Totally protects it plus improves gameplay if you have any sunken inserts.

I have a Bally Rolling Stones with an NOS fully-assembled playfield in it and have a protector on it. Awesome! The playfield is preserved underneath and the protector can be easily removed if I ever chose to do so. I'm getting another one for my immaculate Kiss machine next. It has a really-nice original playfield in it like your Eight Ball Deluxe does.

Gatecrasher is right. Get a Playfield protector or have a pro clearcoat it. That field is really nice.

Thanks guys, I'll check these protectors out.

The only drawback to playfield protectors is star rollover switches, on a slow roll in certain places the ball can hang up on the edge. Not often, but it does happen. That being said, I have one on my Old Chicago & love it.

The coil circuit is 43V. The coil should be AT-26-1200. It's a 3 lug coil because it's one of the coils controlled by the solenoid expander board. I don't have the 84 version, only 81 so the wire colors might be different. On mine, the 2 brown wires go to the center lug and the 2 black go to the lug with the banded side of the diode. The 3 lug coil has 2 diodes in series.

Any fellow EBD owners know where/how to get new roms for free play? Whould love to hear from someone who has done it and what was all involved.
Thanks
Ryan

None that know of. The Alltek has a free play option built in for all Bally games.

Free play rom – replacing U6 chip:

http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html

I don't think he'll have that with EBD. The star is up high in the lane. My Rolling Stones has twin star roll-overs and I haven't had a hang-up yet. The newer protectors are thinner than they used to be which helps too.

I would keep the nice playfield original and use a protector before I would have it professionally clear-coated. You can always replace it with an aftermarket playfield if you want a clear coated one but they are only original once.

Check the voltage at the rectifier board. It should be close to 43V. If not then something is wrong with the board. If it is and you're only getting 30V at the outhole coil, you may have a connector issue or losing voltage across the SEB. Also check coil voltage at other coils, flippers too.

For coin lockout coil, just desolder one wire and cap it with a small wire nut. No need to remove both wires. Don't cut it as you will shorten the wire and ruin the wire harness.

and remember if the outhole coil kicks and the ball does not come out right away,
it could be the lamp bridge.

On all early bally ss games I add a leaf switch to the credit button switch stack and wire it to one of the coin drop switches. Press a button to start a game and simultaneously add a credit. Net zero. Got this idea from Clay (cfh) a long time ago.

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You don't even need to do that. Just remove the little "flapper" (it comes right off easily) and leave the wires intact. If you ever want to put it back to factory you can put the flapper right back on in 2 seconds. I usually leave the flapper inside the cabinet or coin box.

If you cut them flush with the coil lugs, that's fine. It's just that I have seen so many cut way above the coil and then leaving the wires short.

Perhaps I'm setting myself up for some kind of magic trick by asking this, but how did you cut 2 wires without making them shorter?

With flush cutting snips, I have done it. One might lose an 1/8 of an inch if you have to strip the wire and re-solder.

I'm working on the last of my 3 EBD playfield restorations. These will get 2 more coats of varethane. Then I will install my cold laminated overlay on top. These should be ready to ship to USA next week. 2 will be $400 US each, & worse one $350 US shipped. Let me know since these are the last ones I will do!

These playfields get many hours of work from start to finish. Bottom will get a fresh coat of gray paint.

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Might be interested in one. Post some pics when finished if possible.

I have a new gold CPR Eight Ball Deluxe playfield and a OEM 1981 Bally backglass for sale as a kit for $1400 + shipping.

I will post pics later tonight.

In addition I will add the following signature parts for the restoration:

>New stainless lift channel + plastic edge trim for the 1/8" thick EBD backglass
>New stainless shooter lane arch (hood) and out hole ball stop "L" bracket
>New stainless coin door & side rail carriage bolt set
>New stainless lock bar carriage bolt + nut & washer

contact: [email protected]