(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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#1251 2 years ago

I have a 1981 EBD and I can't get the star rollover on the left ramp to register anything but slow rolls. Fast shots over the roll over are missed every time. I have replaced the cap. Is there an update or better way to make sure shots up this ramp register?

Thanks,

Joe

#1252 2 years ago
Quoted from charliex:

I have a 1981 EBD and I can't get the star rollover on the left ramp to register anything but slow rolls. Fast shots over the roll over are missed every time. I have replaced the cap. Is there an update or better way to make sure shots up this ramp register?
Thanks,
Joe

If the switch is adjusted properly and the roll-over is freely moving you might need to replace the switch. When I restore and EBD I usually end-up replacing that switch with a new one. You need to have it adjusted properly and be in excellent working order. More so than any of the others.

#1253 2 years ago

Make sure the switch contacts are nice and shiny clean, verify there's a capacitor on the switch and adjust the gap very close.

#1254 2 years ago

Where can you get a rollover replacement switch? I have been looking for one for years.

#1256 2 years ago
Quoted from charliex:

I have a 1981 EBD and I can't get the star rollover on the left ramp to register anything but slow rolls. Fast shots over the roll over are missed every time. I have replaced the cap. Is there an update or better way to make sure shots up this ramp register?
Thanks,
Joe

I would replace the switch. You have already replaced the cap, and probably gapped the switch correctly.

Whenever I refurbish a classic Bally/Stern all the switches get replaced, low power and high power. Many well meaning owners destroy low power switches with abrasives. In face, I recall seeing someone at a show "servicing" a low power switch during a tournament with a flexstone file. Took the finish right off. Also, in most cases these switches have led a hard life. I bought my switches from Pinball Resource.

1 week later
#1257 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

If the switch is adjusted properly and the roll-over is freely moving you might need to replace the switch. When I restore and EBD I usually end-up replacing that switch with a new one. You need to have it adjusted properly and be in excellent working order. More so than any of the others.

That switch is giving me headaches, too.

Do you have a resource for that switch? What number would I have to look for? And should that switch have a cap on it?

#1258 2 years ago

I replaced the drop targets with repro drops and cleaned up the mechs... everything looks good and they are snappy. But now I've got some issue with the 8 ball target, it will sometimes drop after the pop bumpers shake too much. Anyone else have that problem and know of a good fix? Not sure if an adjustment is needed, or if some sort of grip can be applied to the metal shelf that holds the target up.

Thanks for any ideas.

#1259 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

or if some sort of grip can be applied to the metal shelf that holds the target up.

Try a dab of contact cement.

#1260 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

That switch is giving me headaches, too.
Do you have a resource for that switch? What number would I have to look for? And should that switch have a cap on it?

I assume that switch should have a cap.

I highly recommend getting some switch parts from Pinball Resource. They sell loose contacts and blades, and with a little effort, you can replace the worn parts. (But take pictures, as it's not obvious how to put the switch back together once it's apart.)

#1261 2 years ago

I always make a chart when I take a switch stack apart.

#1262 2 years ago

It's just a leaf switch. You can easily rebuild it as mentioned above or buy one for a slingshot, take it apart and use just the blades out of the new one. Use the same spring blade and everything else from the original Bally switch stack. Then you have a brand-new roll-over switch. The slingshot switches are about $5 from PBR, Marco and most other vendors. If you lose any pieces you will have some extras from the slingshot stack.

I always use the Bally spring blade though rather than the straight spring blades most repop switch stacks come with.

#1263 2 years ago

Anybody on the latest CPR playfield list? I put my name on the list months ago and I know they are now shipping, I don't want to miss out. This is my first time buying something from CPR how does this normally work?

#1264 2 years ago

I'm on it as well. They will email people on the list in the order they got on. As they are sold they contact the next and so on. I watched folks on the Centaur and Fathom list wait weeks before they were notified to pay. And that was at 40 of each. EBD run was 200 I think.

#1265 2 years ago

PS I am now building and shipping EBD upper and lower harnesses. 81 and 84 editions.

#1266 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

PS I am now building and shipping EBD upper and lower harnesses. 81 and 84 editions.

how much?

#1267 2 years ago

Lower is $75, uppers 150 plus shipping. Will be in my store later this week. Comes with ground braid, new on/off, varistor, etc.

#1268 2 years ago

As far as the Eight Ball Deluxe playfield goes, I hope this time they use the right color
scheme; cream instead of white.

#1269 2 years ago

If anyone wants to pass on their CPR pf, please let me know. i am happy to pay a transfer fee for a gold or silver.

#1270 2 years ago

I got word my playfield is ready to ship today. Looks like im gonna be busy swapping playfields soon

#1271 2 years ago
Quoted from Chuckwebster:

I got word my playfield is ready to ship today. Looks like im gonna be busy swapping playfields soon

I hope you could post a picture of it when it comes in.
I hope it is color corrected.

#1272 2 years ago

Received word that my playfield is ready to ship and paid for it today. Based on the pics on their website, looks white, not cream colored, for those wondering.

#1273 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Received word that my playfield is ready to ship and paid for it today. Based on the pics on their website, looks white, not cream colored, for those wondering.

I made my payment yesterday...for 2 playfields.

#1274 2 years ago

I think CPR will probably retain the pale white rather than the custard which isn't a big deal but I think there will be a few improvements over some of the minor issues the previous edition had.

One would be the hole diameter for the lamps was too small last time these were made and they had to be opened-up for the factory #555 lamp sockets to fit through. The Fathoms were like this too. I think all the post-1980 playfields CPR made had the issue. They were made to the #44 socket size which is a little smaller. It wasn't a show-stopper but was time-consuming and kind of a PITA to open them all up a few thousandths of an inch with a Dremel tool while taking extra care not to damage the clear coat. Kevin at CPR emailed me a while back asking for the correct hole size and I provided him with the info so I would assume the issue is now in the past for them going forward.

There was also another hole that was spotted in the wrong area near the top if I recall that I hope they correct.

Even with those two flaws the EBD playfields from the original CPR run are very nice. These next ones should be even better. The guys at CPR seem to care about continuous improvement of their products.

I haven't received word from CPR yet on my order but am glad they are now starting to ship.

#1275 2 years ago

Hi guys,

I have a loaner EBD in my basement for a while. I haven't worked on a lot of SS pinball machines so I need some assistance while I get up to speed.

I need to understand how the pin is suppose to play. After you knock down all the drops on the right side of the pin you are supposed to hit the 8-ball drop target. After that, you shoot for the saucer behind the 8-ball drop target. Once you are in the saucer, the solenoid kicks the ball out through the gate, back into the rollover area.

This is the way it is supposed to work correct?

On the EBD I have, when you shoot for the saucer the ball sails right through the gate to the rollover area. It looks like there is a metal ball stop that is supposed to engage to stop the ball right before the saucer but the one on this EBD isn't activating. Maybe I'm just seeing things? What is supposed to stop the ball so that it doesn't sail right through the gate?

I took a look through the manual, but I don't see any reference to a ball stop in this area. I see that #17 is the solenoid and #34 is the switch.

Could someone please clarify for me. Thank you.

#1276 2 years ago

See pic

IMG_6197 (resized).jpg

#1277 2 years ago

That pic doesn't help me. Maybe I did a bad job of explaining, but it's the saucer side, the side with the 8-ball drop down that the ball sails through. The ball will end up in the rollover area and then fall into the pops.

What stops the ball so that it falls into the saucer?

#1278 2 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi guys,
I have a loaner EBD in my basement for a while. I haven't worked on a lot of SS pinball machines so I need some assistance while I get up to speed.
I need to understand how the pin is suppose to play. After you knock down all the drops on the right side of the pin you are supposed to hit the 8-ball drop target. After that, you shoot for the saucer behind the 8-ball drop target. Once you are in the saucer, the solenoid kicks the ball out through the gate, back into the rollover area.
This is the way it is supposed to work correct?
On the EBD I have, when you shoot for the saucer the ball sails right through the gate to the rollover area. It looks like there is a metal ball stop that is supposed to engage to stop the ball right before the saucer but the one on this EBD isn't activating. Maybe I'm just seeing things? What is supposed to stop the ball so that it doesn't sail right through the gate?
I took a look through the manual, but I don't see any reference to a ball stop in this area. I see that #17 is the solenoid and #34 is the switch.
Could someone please clarify for me. Thank you.

This is a fairly common issue with EBD. If you look at the clear plastic piece that guides the ball towards the saucer, there is a "hump" on it right before the saucer hole that is supposed to direct the ball into the saucer. If this plastic piece becomes worn, or is loose or somehow out of whack, the ball can scoot right on past the restriction missing the saucer hole and going on through the gate. When the plastics are new and installed correctly the ball will go into the hole 99% of the time. However, if you hit on just right with enough force you may have it go past the saucer hole even with the clear plastic adjusted properly.

Here's the plastic piece:
ebdplas01 - Copy (resized).jpg

Here it is installed. Notice the "hump". It's purpose is to re-direct the ball as is rolls up the guide into a more narrow restriction that forces it into the saucer hole. When adjusted properly (and not worn-out) it will do the job 99% of the time. Only a freakish shot where the ball bounces off the guide and doesn't have a chance to slow down by hitting the hump will allow it to fly right past the saucer hole.

humpIMG_2814 (resized).JPG

#1279 2 years ago

See if you can loosen the screws holding the plastic piece in place and force the clear plastic closer to the saucer hole thus reducing the restriction (making the ball path more narrow) and then re-tighten the screws. See if that helps. Usually you can adjust it to the point that the restriction is so narrow that the ball won't even pass through it. If you go too far tweak it a little until you get the gap just right.

If not, you probably need to buy a new plastics set or at least the one piece.

#1280 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

As far as the Eight Ball Deluxe playfield goes, I hope this time they use the right color
scheme; cream instead of white.

I hate to disappoint but I think they will be white again. I talked to Kevin about this before this last run went to screening. His opinion seems clear that the original color was white. This has been debated on other threads, but white or cream, I'm just happy that a repro will be available soon.

#1281 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

This is a fairly common issue with EBD. If you look at the clear plastic piece that guides the ball towards the saucer, there is a "hump" on it right before the saucer hole that is supposed to direct the ball into the saucer. If this plastic piece becomes worn, or is loose or somehow out of whack, the ball can scoot right on past the restriction missing the saucer hole and going on through the gate. When the plastics are new and installed correctly the ball will go into the hole 99% of the time. However, if you hit on just right with enough force you may have it go past the saucer hole even with the clear plastic adjusted properly.
Here's the plastic piece:

Here it is installed. Notice the "hump". It's purpose is to re-direct the ball as is rolls up the guide into a more narrow restriction that forces it into the saucer hole. When adjusted properly (and not worn-out) it will do the job 99% of the time. Only a freakish shot where the ball bounces off the guide and doesn't have a chance to slow down by hitting the hump will allow it to fly right past the saucer hole.

Thank you very much gatecrasher this is exactly what I needed. I'll take a look at it tonight and report back.

#1282 2 years ago

Just got notice that playfield has shipped and ETA of June 16!

#1284 2 years ago

A printing tech question. Did EBD playfields have some colors printed as process color with halftone screen pattern clearly visible?

#1286 2 years ago

Mine shipped too! passing onto a friend that could use it more than me, but very pleased with how quickly this ship after payment. Will not hesitate to get in on a preorder for another playfield.

#1287 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

A printing tech question. Did EBD playfields have some colors printed as process color with halftone screen pattern clearly visible?

Only on Illinois Pinball Playfields did they have a color swatch
printed on the bottom outhole part of the playfield.
Original Bally's on the other hand, did not.
"halftone screen pattern" was used for shades on
some of the balls in order to get purple, etc, etc,etc.

#1288 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

See if you can loosen the screws holding the plastic piece in place and force the clear plastic closer to the saucer hole thus reducing the restriction (making the ball path more narrow) and then re-tighten the screws. See if that helps. Usually you can adjust it to the point that the restriction is so narrow that the ball won't even pass through it. If you go too far tweak it a little until you get the gap just right.
If not, you probably need to buy a new plastics set or at least the one piece.

Then, if you want to cheat, you can bend the little gate so it has trouble with the kick out, and you collect your bonus over and over!

#1289 2 years ago

I checked out the hump on the plastic last night. The plastic looks almost brand new. I can clearly see a hump there. A roll test deflected the ball directly into the saucer every time, but like you said the bounce off the plastic can bypass the hump and send the ball soaring through the gate. I somehow managed to do this 4 times in one game and have the ball go straight through.

As far as I can see there is no way to adjust this plastic. I'll play test it a bit more and see what happens.

#1290 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

"halftone screen pattern" was used for shades on
some of the balls in order to get purple, etc, etc,etc.

So Bally playfields also had areas with halftone dots like top right corner here?
IMG_7523 (resized).JPG

#1291 2 years ago

Here is something interesting to note regarding playfield color:

My 1984 has neither the creme white nor the pure white that is matter of debate here. This playfield is all original and those areas under debate have no color, just bare wood.

Where does this take the discussion?

Were all originals bare wood and the lacqeur yellowing over time lead IPB to believe it was creme white? Did CPR take it one step further and add their take that it's pure white? Did midway attempt to cut costs eliminate all color there?

The debate/mystery continues...

IMG_7531 (resized).JPG

IMG_7532 (resized).JPG

IMG_7533 (resized).JPG

#1292 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

My 1984 has neither the creme white nor the pure white that is matter of debate here. This playfield is all original and those areas under debate have no color, just bare wood.

Where does this take the discussion?

Were all originals bare wood and the lacqeur yellowing over time lead IPB to believe it was creme white? Did CPR take it one step further and add their take that it's pure white? Did midway attempt to cut costs eliminate all color there?

The round circles where the stand-up switches are is the bare wood. The off white
is the creme color around the rest of the playfield under the plastic.

#1293 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The round circles where the stand-up switches are is the bare wood. The off white
is the creme color around the rest of the playfield under the plastic.

That's what I'm saying and showing....my playfield has NO color under the playfield plastics. Bare wood. It is definitely not white nor creme white. Here is closer look:

IMG_7534 (resized).PNG

#1294 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Bare wood. It is definitely not white nor creme white. Here is closer look:

From your picture...
1) wood = where the switch is.
2) base color creme white/white.
3) process green.
4) key line = black.
5) clear coat = all the cracking from heat and wood shrinkage/expansion.
Advertising Posters did a lot of the colors for the game industries back in Chicago.
They did a lot of custom colors that people today do not want to match up.

#1295 2 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I checked out the hump on the plastic last night. The plastic looks almost brand new. I can clearly see a hump there. A roll test deflected the ball directly into the saucer every time, but like you said the bounce off the plastic can bypass the hump and send the ball soaring through the gate. I somehow managed to do this 4 times in one game and have the ball go straight through.
As far as I can see there is no way to adjust this plastic. I'll play test it a bit more and see what happens.

You can adjust it slightly. You have to loosen the screws and then push on the plastic piece closer and then retighten. It ain't rocket-science. If you can't move the upper clear piece enough, loosen the screws to the lower one and move it too. Restrict the opening gap.

When everything is adjusted correctly the ball will very rarely go past the saucer hole. If you can't get the gap close enough to do the job you need a new plastic piece.

#1296 2 years ago

Well, there you go. My new play field has now seen more of Canada than I have. Awesome!

#1297 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

So Bally playfields also had areas with halftone dots like top right corner here?

It may be the photo, but the 6/14 Ball color looks blue instead of green to me.

#1298 2 years ago

Tracking says my playfield will arrive tomorrow! now i need to find the time to swap it out.

#1299 2 years ago

early Christmas present has arrived!

19141685_1643444662340654_2127309918_n (resized).jpg

#1300 2 years ago

Both of my playfields arrived today.

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