Marblehead, MA
What's a nice LE worth these days?
(Topic ID: 66114)
Linked Games
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981-
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
-
Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982
Topic Gallery
Quoted from embryonjohn:What's a nice LE worth these days?
1,500-1,700 maybe? Not really sure.
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Congrats Underspin....playfield looks nice
Thanks. That playfield is (was) covered 90% in mylar. I spent an obscene amount of time getting that and glue up yesterday and only minimal damage. Just some light touch up work and then I'll get to prepping for new clearcoat. All new pop bumper caps and some other random parts have been ordered.
The plastic above the 8 ball target has a chunk taken out of it. I can live with it but if anyone has an extra please let me know. Thanks.
Any tips on polishing up the coin door? Our EBD door has a few light scratches but that's about it. Will a cotton buffing wheel on the workbench grinder do the trick? Which polishing compounds seem to work the best? Tnx as always...
Quoted from DocGar:Any tips on polishing up the coin door? Our EBD door has a few light scratches but that's about it. Will a cotton buffing wheel on the workbench grinder do the trick? Which polishing compounds seem to work the best? Tnx as always...
Flitz, sheep wool buffing wheel on a cordless drill, and cotton terry towel to finish the job, if you want a high shine.
Same goes for ball shooter frame, coin door frame, lockbar, etc.
Cleaning sponge wheel on a drill if there is lot of work to start off with overall. Polishing with another terry towel first will give you a solid base shine.
This is not going to give you a "chrome" shine, but a "factory fresh" shine.
If you do not want to take the entire door apart you can do it in stages.
Quoted from DocGar:Tnx TBK. Looks like there are several Flitz products available. To which are you referring?
Quoted from DocGar:Tnx as always TBK. WAY COOL 8-ball plunger knob. Gotta have one. Where did you come by that gem?
I bought the shooter rod on Ebay before the creator/seller DOUBLED his price.
It used to be $20.
He sells the best one on the market as the ball is the right plunger size and the number is offset vertically on the shaft so you can always see the number when you walk up to the machine.
You could make your own with tools and drill press with a mini pool ball set and a regular ball shooter rod modified with industrial epoxy.
Thank You I e-mailed richmond craiglist. Looking for a Eight Ball Deluxe. Looking for one that is at least complete with all wiring, transformer, playfield parts.
Thank You
Quoted from alimerick:Thank You I e-mailed richmond craiglist. Looking for a Eight Ball Deluxe. Looking for one that is at least complete with all wiring, transformer, playfield parts.
Thank You
Good luck, hope your able to snag it for a good price. 
Let us know if you get it
Ok...the lane guide plastics in my set are WAY off...anyone know where I can get the right sized ones with the screw holes in the correct spots? Ugh!
Toronto, ON
Quoted from eh97ac:Can an LE be convert back to an original? I figure a backbox, lamp panel and BG are needed but is the wiring harness compatible?
I don't see why not, but the harness for the back box interconnect may be too short. Other than that it's all the same.
Quoted from eh97ac:Can an LE be convert back to an original? I figure a backbox, lamp panel and BG are needed but is the wiring harness compatible?
Yes, it can converted.
However, as you suspected the wire harnesses DO NOT match in wire color coding.
You will need to understanstand the schematics of both putting both manuals side by side, and observing the differences.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:However, as you suspected the wire harnesses DO NOT match in wire color coding.
That would be interesting. In doing research for building wire harnesses I compared the harnesses for all of the -17 games and most of the -35 games. With very few exceptions, they are all identical. Bally, like everyone else I suspect, kept it as simple as possible so that they would not need to retrain employees.
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:That would be interesting. In doing research for building wire harnesses I compared the harnesses for all of the -17 games and most of the -35 games. With very few exceptions, they are all identical. Bally, like everyone else I suspect, kept it as simple as possible so that they would not need to retrain employees.
I only said this because people can make assumptions that things are interchangeable, which many times they are not.
This includes changes during a production run, which is a real kick in the pants.
Most ARE very similar (1977-1984), but I tell people to never take it for granted.
Manuals do not always match the actual game either with wire colors which really is a real PITA.
Sometimes they are misprints, other times they were outright wrong.
When I built my EBD "Classic" for example using a EBD "third run" parts (including a EBDC proper playfield with most of the original harness), the wire harnesses colors did not match to the either the original,LE, or Bally-Midway insert manual (and the harness was not hacked), and I had to physically cross check every single connection to make sure I was not putting "juice" into things that would cause other things to blow up.
The harness most closely resembled the original game.
Even the cabinet wiring was different although it was the right cabinet for the exact game which made me pause initially and scratch my head.
The wire colors themselves used in the game were the same, which made things a bit challenging.
"It is a GI, high power solenoid wire, or switch wire"?
Not good if you make mistakes when pinning connectors and manual says it something it is not.
Check everything!
The cabinet front on our EBD has taken its share of abuse over the years w/ assorted holes (drilled for ? reason), dings and gouges. Have removed hardware, filled divots and sanded. Now looking to repaint and could use some direction. Spray vs brush? Paint that closely matches the EBD black? Tnx as always..
Quoted from DocGar:drilled for ? reason
It was likely a routed machine as most were and had a lock bar across the coin door as extra protection against thieving.
Quoted from DocGar:The cabinet front on our EBD has taken its share of abuse over the years w/ assorted holes (drilled for ? reason), dings and gouges. Have removed hardware, filled divots and sanded. Now looking to repaint and could use some direction. Spray vs brush? Paint that closely matches the EBD black? Tnx as always..
Preference is always spray due to even coating and no brush marks.
You can make a "window" to spray the front with painters tape and plastic sheets fairly easily with some scrap wood.
If you are only painting very small areas, the best way to avoid brush marks is to use a SPONGE FOAM BRUSH.
You can get multiple sizes in large packs for less than $9, and there is no cleaning, you just throw them away as you use them.
You can even trim them to your specific size needs.
Everybody restoring should have a pack lying around for quick touch ups.
It would easier if you posted a photo of the sides and front of your machine.
The problem is fading.
Even blacks fade over time.
The original paints were high luster satin at the factory, not high gloss.
I cannot give a suggest offhand if you are trying to "blend" in comparison to remaining black on front with the cabinet sides on your machine.
Are you planning to restencil?
For example, my machine is a "classic" and used decals.
I had to go with a semi gloss to match the sides and make the whole thing look right.
If you want direct factory equivalent colors contact "Pinball Pimp".
He should be willing to at least provide the colors without cost.
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/
Your baseline color and cabinet preparation instructions are here (PDF format):
http://pinballpimpstencils.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/Pinball%20Pimp%20Cabinet%20Stencil%20Instructions%20v2016.pdf
Tnx TBK. Will shoot a pic or two after work today. Right now, just looking to spiff up the front-most portion of the cabinet. The graphics on the cabinet sides are in good shape with only the occasional small ding (1-2mm). The Flitz works well; the door positively shines! Ordering the custom shooter rod today as well. Went with powder coating the legs; they look fairly bullet proof now. I don't think this particular machine has looked this good for > decade..
Here's the EBD front before some TLC. A number of scrapes, gouges, random holes etc. Fully striped down now and took the opportunity to shine up the coin door and surrounding trim. The black here certainly does not look factory and is sort of a flat - semigloss. The side graphics have plenty of black that look more glossy. Will look at both the semi and full gloss enamels then. Tnx again for the much valued help..
Quoted from DocGar:Here's the EBD front before some TLC. A number of scrapes, gouges, random holes etc. Fully striped down now and took the opportunity to shine up the coin door and surrounding trim. The black here certainly does not look factory and is sort of a flat - semigloss. The side graphics have plenty of black that look more glossy. Will look at both the semi and full gloss enamels then. Tnx again for the much valued help..
Since this is a EBD "Classic" (1984), I would go with either a semi-gloss or high-gloss dependent on the condition of your decals.
Original decals black was really shiny in comparison to the other game versions.
This will touch up fast.
Jack the game up, take off the front legs, remove the final door mount piece, mask the rest of the front of the cabinet (T molding), screen off the sides from excess paint spray, and hit it with the enamel spray of choice.
Two coats should do the trick.
Tnx Chris. Moving right along w/ the project. Paint tonite. Interesting thing happening here. I literally held off on any refurb/resto work for years thinking that undertaking it w/ good outcome was somehow beyond me. Now I see that a bit of elbow grease (and tapping the collective experience here) can in fact yield a much better than expected outcome. I'm finding that I'm looking to dive in ever deeper. That said, the T molding on the front of my machine has obviously fended off a number of traumas. Is that material hard to come by, remove, replace?? Tnx again as always...
Quoted from DocGar:That said, the T molding on the front of my machine has obviously fended off a number of traumas. Is that material hard to come by, remove, replace?? Tnx again as always...
T-molding is cheap, but there is a couple of catches on this one.
First you have to find a source for the "ridged roughened T-molding" as this is a bit more uncommon that most of the arcade games of the period. Most common extruded T-molding is flat smooth. I have not even looked for this type for quite a while. I did have to replace the backbox T-molding on my game due to some operator gouging which I ended up special ordering, but I did this back in 2004 when I originally built the game.
Second, and most important, is the overall condition of your cabinet.
Since the T-molding is partially glued and the cabinet is made from 32+ year old fiber particle board, you may end up damaging your cabinet trying to remove the T-molding out of the machine. It is pretty easy to crack this type of cabinet even after loosening the glue, especially if the particle board is bone dry. Be careful if you decide to go this route. If the T-molding is in good shape, I would leave it alone.
This is a *very close* yellow for the cabinet. It is a Decocolor OIL, and it controls very well in application into the decaled surfaced with excellent adhesion and no smearing, runs, or air pocketing. Decal surface must clean with no residue, and decontaminated with denatured alcohol with no excessive rubbing.
The black and white are the complementary matches. White is harder to apply.
If you use this oil paint pen properly, it leaves no "lines" or "brush marks". It may require additionally costs for overlap, but layers must be completely dry.
The paint will still require clear coat overcoat for finishing and protection, preferably sprayed.
You will need 2-3 pens per cabinet side, unless the cabinet is several faded which then will at least double the amount.
I may have some old photos of the completed cabinet before I started full color on my machine, PM of needed. It looked "factory fresh" with black, white, and yellow.
As I stated it's a *very close* yellow.
It's hard to use a pen picture for comparison for pigmentation.
Look at "L-U-X-E" lettering during The repaint (deco yellow), not the rest that was being darkened with antique gold.
Two yellowcoats were required to give it the proper full yellow.
The first photo was taken after the full color repaint (factory colors), during the overpaint. The white in the 8 Ball has already been changed to pure white, but the rest remained factory off white.
The second was the finished product.
In the final photo only the the outer edging on all the letters and part if the railing is the slightly brighter factory yellow using Decocolor.
There are plenty of different techniques you use to match up colors. The hardest part is making both sides look completely identical.
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Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:The hardest part is making both sides look completely identical.
The hardest part is looking at both sides at the same time.
Quoted from dothedoo:The hardest part is looking at both sides at the same time.
The late Marty Feldman could prolly do it.
Quoted from DocGar:Used a Rustoleum semi-gloss black for the front and it looks good. Unfortunately, seems to scratch VERY easily. Assuming that a clear coat will help protect here. Got a can of Triple Thick hanging around. Would work here?
Rustoleum Clear Enamel.
Matte or Gloss are two good options.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Finally got my EBD up and runnng, playable and into the game room after sitting in the garage for almost a year!
Anyone with good suggestions on adding LEDs? Brand, colors, etc
Sweet lineup.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Finally got my EBD up and runnng, playable and into the game room after sitting in the garage for almost a year!
Anyone with good suggestions on adding LEDs? Brand, colors, etc
Please no. LED's don't fade in & out like regular incandescent bulbs do... that & they just don't have the warmth.
You lose the original look of EBD.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Finally got my EBD up and runnng, playable and into the game room after sitting in the garage for almost a year!
Anyone with good suggestions on adding LEDs? Brand, colors, etc
If you want to see a comparison night shot with no LEDs.
No color washout.
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