I think he means the fuse under the play field...

Yes I mean the fuse under the playfield and Gatecrasher, I bought the Playboy playfield from you and had my car body shop that restores cars fix the hole in the middle of the playfield. It took 8 sprays of filling and sanding but it looks great now. How much for the board? I know that you would rather email me direct if you have my email of kevinjmony to quote me, that is fine.

Also I looked forever for a new playfield and gave up because CPR would never return email and now I find they're in production and closed to new orders. Oh well, maybe someone will sell theirs at a reasonable price. Does anyone know of someone who will repair the paint on the original?

http://www.greatpinball.com/services.html

Did once, might again? Not sure. He's pinsider greatwichjohn and he's currently doing new Seawitch and Stargazer P/Fs. I believe they were rehabbing EBDs as well. Email them and ask. All they can say is no.

As for your fuse, does it blow immediately upon power up? When it goes into attract mode or during gameplay? And I have to ask the brain dead question, are you using a 1 amp slo-blow?

Hey guys. Couple of questions. The "C" rollover is no longer registering on my machine. Burnished the contacts, checked the gap and tried a jumper across the contacts w/ no joy. Seems like it might be closer to the brain. Ideas? Second, lesser concerning problem is some lifting and flaking of the black paint along one edge of the back glass. Is it cool to carefully remove the flaked portion and repaint? What paint? Thanks as always...

Molex connector on MPU.
Seal backglass with triple thick or use acrylic clear coat with brush, DO NOT peel!

Could be a broken wire on another switch in the chain. Look at the manual and then check each switch in the same row and column.

Tnx TBK but no joy. Reseated J2 (actually all of the molex connectors) and still not picking up the hit. Has been working fine and the "B,C,D" all functional. There's a diode on the "C" playfield assembly. Any chance that was blown? (I thought they were fairly hardy components). Other ideas? Thanks as always..

Tnx for the idea dtd. There is a drop target, the "E" target and the L thumper on that chain and they're all functional. Hope this isn't one of those hair-pullers..

Even though those switches are functional there still could be a broken wire. The wires are daisy-chained from switch to switch. Let's say the left bumper has a broken wire. The bumper could still work, but the next switch in the chain won't.

Since only one switch isn't working it could be the first switch in the row or the last switch in the column, relative to signal flow. Unfortunately, the schematics don't necessarily show the switches "in order" in their rows and columns, so you'll have to check each switch in the row and each switch in the column for which the "C" is the intersection.

Looking at the schematics, the row switches are the second "E" and left bumper (as you stated), as well as the 6 ball/14 ball drop target and credit button. The column switches are "A", "B", "D", all three coin slots and the slam tilt.

I would inspect the coin door first as that is the most likely place to have a broken wire.

Tnx dtd. You were spot on! Broken wire in the door cable. Fixed...

Anybody needing a EBD backglass in nice shape? $100 + shipping

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Can you please show a picture of the back of the backglass?

I'll take it, if it's still available

From an '81 or '84? They are NOT the same size.

I can attest to that.....

Since it has a lift channel it is obviously a 1981.

It has been sold

I spoke too soon. While there was a loose wire in the cab door, it did not link to the "C" rollover. Did self-test and it shows a 'stuck' contact at the 4x drop target. Seems like a separate issue. Will tackle that and still looking for ideas on trouble-shooting the "C"... Ideas boys?

Question. I was just looking to do the capacitors on the squawk & talk board on a new project machine and noticed it is missing th U2 24 pin ic socket. Does anyone know exactly what that chip controls? Is it even needed on this board at all? Maybe it's normal to be empty? For the record the machine is an LE.
Thanks!

Continue to search under the playfield.

Will do. Difficult to follow wires in cables and even more so at the head of the PF. Just not a lot of space to poke your noggin. Is it bad form to flip the playfield in place and support it on a sheet of stiff ply (the cable harness at the head looks plenty long enough to accommodate this).. Easier access would make wire inspection/ signal tracing a damn sight easier ; )

Learning how to read the schematics helps understand what wires are doing what too. I know it looks insane at first, but if I can figure it out, anyone can. Haha

I had a similar problem with my resurrection EBD project and I would pull the playfield completely out of the cab and set the lower end (carefully) on the floor. Then I could "watch it while it worked." I would start by examining the pinch points of the bottom of the playfield. Anywhere it rests on the inner cab supports make sure thee are no wires hanging out. With mine, it was the diode for the ball drain hole switch. It was touching the p/f hangar and whenever the hangar hit the lockdown device, boom. Grounded out and blew the p/f fuse.

IMG_3803_(resized).JPG

You don't need to follow the wires in the harness, not likely to have a break there unless critters chewed it or someone went hack happy with a pair of wire cutters. You can slide the playfield all the way forward to the stops then tilt it up against the head. Pretty easy to see everything from that position. If you flip it over I would put a sheet of foam on the plywood to protect plastic parts.

Also check the diode on the "C" switch. You can clip an alligator jumper wire across the diode. If the switch works the diode is open.

Will try jumping the diode first. If no joy there, will explore these good ideas on fully accessing the PF underguts and commence to tracing wires. Thanks for all of the pointers...

I got the playfield fuse issue fixed, but there is continuous power to the pop bumper which burned up the coil. Can someone help a novice with good directions?

In my experience you have a bad transistor on the solenoid driver board that's in the head of the game. Not sure which one it is though. Try and check the schematics. Once you find it, replace it.

Did this coil lock on the second you powered on the game?

Where can I find a good, straightforward reference to replace these metal pieces into new plastics?

image_(resized).jpg

http://classicplayfields.com/f2khelp.html

What I did was this...

I took a small file and filed away most of the flange. I kept a pair of calipers around in order to file each stand-off approximately the same diameter. Tou might have to enlarge the holes in the plastics just a smidgen as well.

It's not used.

I posted a pictorial on it a few years ago.

Here is a condensed version:

IMG_7320.JPG
Just a couple waves of the lighter is all that is needed. You don't want to get the post too hot or the plastic gets gooey.

IMG_7313.JPG
A drill bit works great for this but you can do it with just about anything.

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IMG_7326.JPG

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Work your way around the post by turning it as you squeeze progressively until the flange is straight. You don't want to squeeze it too hard though or the screw won't fit in the hole when you are done.

IMG_7330.JPG

After the flange has been straightened the post can then be easily inserted into the new plastics piece.

Then install the plastic to the playfield and as you tighten the screws they will mushroom the post slightly again to the plastic. If the piece is a lower plastic (like this EBD lane guide is), you can use a shorter screw to mushroom the post and then remove it or leave the post as-is because there is another one that goes on top and after the screw is tightened it won't be going anywhere. There really is no need to mushroom them at all if you don't want to.

Great idea GateCrasher

I'll have to do that on my 2nd 8BD restore.

I used my soldering tip insterted into the flange side to remove the bell stand-offs from the old plastics. Worked real good.

Yep!

Yeah it doesn't take much heat to easily remove them.

I usually squeeze the flanges straight and then throw them in my vibratory polisher to clean them up nice.

Thanks to the parts you make for the old Ballys, my 8BD pins are going to look great, when finished.

Keep up the good work...much appreciated.

I designed/machined plastic protectors for 8 Ball Deluxe.

I wonder if there'd be much interest in them.

they came out nice.

Interested

It might take me a little while before I can get around to a production run. I'm working on several pin "mods".

I'll see what I can possibly dop to make this happen.

Would be sweet if it included the ball lane guides

I just finished my EBDLE today! Rebuilt the Squawk and talk, replaced 3 SCR's on the A5 lamp driver, all new plastics (which I put back on the post by putting the soldering iron in the post and slowly melting them back in) fixed a host of switches and flipper issues. Good to go! 100%. Playfield is rough but still plays great. I am so happy!
Before.image_(resized).jpeg
After
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I know the pop caps are wrong but those will get replaced soon! Thanks to those that helped!

New rubbers, lights, and some twist sockets! Sorry this was a duplicate so I added some more.

Nice....now time for lots of this.............

Hey guys,

I had the opportunity to play EBD at Pinagogo and had a lot of fun with it. I've noticed that there seems to be different iterations on the table, with some being more sought after than others. Is there a resource that describes the differences between machines/years? What changed?

Thanks!

Read everything from Gate Crasher

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well?tu=gatecrasher

GateCrasher really knows his 8 ball deluxe stuff.