I've got these in my archive from when I restored my '84 EBD, hopefully they help. If you need any close-up pictures of something, I could try to take some tonight.

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On my '81 EBD, J3 is not used on the sound board. The 2 pin connector goes to pins 1 and 2 of the J2 header on the sound board, for the speaker.

Not sure how long this product has been out. Pretty cool if you want to change your original EBD to the light boards that the later versions had. The kit ($109.95) even comes with header pins to make your own connections. I wonder if the instruction sheet shows how to make the header pins with the proper wires from an original EBD?

https://www.pinballlife.com/8-ball-deluxe-lamp-board-kit.html

Lamp board replacement kit for Bally's 8 Ball Deluxe pinball machines.
Kit Includes:
8 lamp boards
59 twist-in lamp sockets
24 3/4" mounting screws
24 5/16" snap-in spacers
24 1" mounting screws
24 1/2" snap-in spacers
4 header pins
1 installation instruction sheet

I”d love to see pictures if anyone has ever converted their original version to this. This has involve some major rewiring but it probably can be done.

2 pin, orange and black wire(s)? that is for the sound board for the speaker. I have a pic let me know if this helps

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Flip your connector around. Orange goes to pin 1, black to pin 2.

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Bah! Ok I’ll flip it, thank you.

The IPB playfields are the best ever made. Not only are the colors more accurate than CPR's, the wood is the correct thickness. No metric bullshit.

Spotting the holes is not difficult, especially if you have the original playfield to use as a guide. The pre-drilled dimples on CPR playfields is not always perfect and some tweaking must be done. With the IPB playfield you have a clean slate to work with.

If the original playfield is shot, the pin will be worth more to most people with a nice aftermaket or NOS replacement.

What about mirco's?

I did this upgrade. The important one to replace is under the horseshoe drop target. It’s almost impossible to change bulbs and of course they can be flaky. I simply pulled one wire off at a time and crimped it to proper place on new pcb board. I seem to remember at least 2 or 3 wires are not long enough and need an extension.
I looked for a while on eBay to get these boards from the Pac-Man style cabinet ebd version where the pcb boards came stock. Very happy to find out Christopher Eddy was designing a retro version. I worked as an early adopter for him starting a few years back. Everything is done nicely. I highly recommend and am grateful to Christopher for designing & manufacturing them. I also bought and did the upgrade for Fathom. The set is cheaper than new sockets and much cleaner since you don’t need so much ground braid. Buy them, you wont be sorry.

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What is the correct height for the metal guides for the flipper lanes? My EBD has a different height metal guide on each side. Not sure which is correct.

Here are pictures of completed boards. I put seven boards in total as seen in picture. Some boards are soldered in and most need wires crimped. The finish product is beautiful, clean, and easy to maintain. Big question is if there is enough length in wire to reach plugs. Answer is all but 4 wires will reach. Notice picture of the 4 wires I extended. Some others are tight and need to be cut loose from harness to stretch across. If you do this it will become obvious. Plan on a full day to complete the job.

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Fantastic job! Looks factory.

Awesome! Last pic is great - looks like an advertisement lol

Here are those light panels, just stumbled upon them on PBL.
https://www.pinballlife.com/8-ball-deluxe-lamp-board-kit.html

Yeah check post 5153.

For this EBD I only replaced the center set of lights with the board. Other lights looked good. Notice the header pin is vertical vs horizontal.

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Hi all! Kind of an interesting tidbit here:

I've got an EBD that I'm doing a topside teardown on and getting it up in nice shape, however. I've noticed that while taking the playfield apart, I may have a test run for a different playfield process in the original run. The playfield is a strange resin type material, that I can't quite figure out, but still has original wedge sockets under the playfield rather than the PCB boards from later runs. Someone has also painted the head brown at some point, so that's that.

Thoughts?

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Yes that is an experimental playfield that Bally was testing on several different titles. Be careful with the screws the material craters and strips easily.
Wears really well though.

Hi, Pindel,
Do you recall if the four wires that didn't reach went to the same board? Or did various boards have a "too short" wire length? Thanks.

The middle board area indicated in my photo. The dash line is where the 4 wires originally went, the solid white line is the reroute location.

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After swapping the original bulbs in the crap finger cutting sockets to led, when I pull the game off route these seem like a great way to make it more reliable and ease of install/replacement!

Thanks, Pindel! I appreciate the info.

I spent a better part of the afternoon making another ball guide for EBD. EBD only has the one for the left side bonus lane but it's long, over 20 inches. It has 4 L brackets and 2 threaded studs. For my first EBD restore over 10 years ago I bought the metal strips from Metal by the Inch online. There was a minimum order, so I think I ended up with 200 strips. I made 3 guides and now 3 more for my current games. The hardest part of this job is drilling the holes. The stainless is really hard, eats drill bits for breakfast LOL.

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Nicely done! Love that rivet squeezer

Nice job Rich!

Thanks, yes it makes up for the poor man's drill press.

Thanks Bob!

Dude...
https://www.roperwhitney.com/our-products/no-5-jr-hand-punch-in-kit/

I have one. The problem is that since the stainless is a hard metal and a heavy gauge that the punch tends to dent the metal as you are making the hole.
It's been years since I tried it, maybe I'll give it another try.

Anyone know the 2 different sizes used for the round inserts? I don’t have access to my playfield to measure them and I’d like to order some. Can’t seem to find the info using the search function either.

3/4 and 1 inch. I see you are taking my advice from the hardtop thread? If you don't know, the new insert will need sanding. They often have a die mark on the top, usually a letter. When sanding, use a variable speed sander at a low rpm. High speed sanding creates heat and causes the inserts to raise in the center causing a slight bubble, don't ask me how I know

Thanks! Wasn’t sure if the smaller ones were 3/4” or 5/8”. I appreciate the sanding tips!

Having a hard time finding inserts. Also it seems some of mine are opaque, and some clear. Looking a pics of new playfields, it looks like all the inserts should be opaque. Should I just look for all opaque inserts?

Yes there is a mixture of translucent and opaque, many early SS game do for some reason. Not just Bally games. The opaque inserts should be ok and long as not cupped or damaged. They usually turn out nice after the clear is applied.

Have you tried PPS or PBR for the inserts? I bought some from PBR years ago and they don't show on their web page so give them a call.

Also I have seen 2 variations with the EBD out lanes, red ones, sometimes translucent and some opaque, but just those two I have seen vary, probably due to multiple manufactures of the PS's.

HI all. I could use a little tech help. #4 ball lamp in the rack. It works in test mode, it works in attract mode ONLY when the balls are lighting in pairs from top to bottom. It does not work in game mode or in attract mode when the lights moving from left (1-7) to right (9-15). Hope my descripion makes sense.

Thanks in advance.

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Don't understand the first attract note about lighting in pairs - in attract those lamps only do the left-to-right jig. Do you mean that during a *game*, 4 only lights when 12 does?

Does 12 light in attract when it's doing the L to R thing?

Sorry the pairs is only on the initlal power up of the game.

The 12 is fine all the time. It's only the 4 having trouble.

The 3 pics are:
Left/right with 4 off
Lamp test with all on
Power up initial run through from top down with 12/4 lit.

Oh okay. Try taking the glass off, starting a game and manually scoring everything you need to in order to individually light each lamp on the playfield. See if the 4 lights up when any other lamp is lit, or if any other lamp doesn't light when it's supposed to, or turns on the 4 instead. You may have wires switched around wrong either on a connector or elsewhere. 4 could even appear to be lighting correctly in the power up sequence depending on what other lamp's circuit it is incorrectly wired/connected to since then it is lighting the lamps in groups.

Thanks for the help and info! I think I might just do all opaque. I think those look good with 2smd leds under them. Also I don't like seeing the bulb through the clear ones. I think I'll do a starburst on the "shoot again" and "special" that's right above it.

Tried every switch nothing out of ordinary except the 4 in the rack. Here is a video of power up to game start.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1hbtHJsK5TBcJHAc7

Got it. As frenchmarky said a wire was off by a couple of pins. Sheesh gotta love unhacking someone's mess. Ha!

Now that game is 100% up next is hardtop.

Thanks for the help!!!

The most common screw up I find on EBD is when somebody puts the wrong coil where a coil with 2 diodes should be. These are controlled by the SEB. When a single diode coil is installed, it throws the whole game off.

Nice work Rich!

Thank you!

You nailed it! This needs to be the starting point when going over the ebd.

Welp, I joined the club 2x now. My first one is a project. My second one is a complete basket case.

It looks like someone was doing a half-assed restore, and got distracted in the middle of it. Seems it was destined for a hard top.

Cabinet has been sanded. Most stuff appears to be in place internally.
PF has been stripped of all topside parts. Bottom side parts are just hanging there. PF sanded down.
Interior of head has been gutted, including the wire harness

The bad part of all of this is none of the stripped parts came along with the machine, so I'm going to be searching for lots of stuff.

If you have any spare parts, please let me know.

Here's the basket case:

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Can I use the 2 lead bayonet sockets (shown below) to change out the flakey plastic 555 sockets in the GI? Not quite sure how you wire the bayonet socket, as the mounting bracket is not connected to the bulb socket. I guess I would just need to connect the braid wire to the socket lead, and the other wire to the top-most lead? Some of the other insert fixtures in my EBD have the mounting bracket actually connecting to the socket, and the braid wire soldered to it, but the fixture in the pic below looks like the mounting bracket cannot be used in this fashion.

The reason I ask is because have have a bunch of the 2 lead fixtures like in the pic, and I was wondering if I could use them.

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Exactly. Here's a BOPP I redid with those same sockets. Used coated(blue) wire to reduce the chance of a short.

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