Here are some pics from inside my '84 EBD. All of the lamps out in your picture are powered by the black/white wire from the pin 8 of A2J1.
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The lamps across from the main drop target set as well as the deluxe and ball number lamps are all powered by that wire. Here I outlined the bare wire that carries the voltage to all of the non-board lamps.
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Finally, the arrows are pointing to where you should get voltage for all of those lamps. Hopefully the one break will resolve all of your issues.
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Shawn

Crying out loud, a single broken wire...in perfect hindsight, no wonder all of that happened lol.
At this point most of the missing lamps here are ones I took out to inspect and forgot about for the time being.

Thanks you guys for the guidance and encouragement with it.

This is an old, worn out electrically frail machine but still a darling at that. So much still original to admire (before a rejuvenation in a few months).

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I have a spare 8-ball deluxe LE original manual and instruction cards if anyone needs...PM me.

I recently acquired a 'mostly' populated (with wiring harness) 1984 version Playfield. It's missing the playfield light boards and the inline 4 drop target mech. Debating a ground up build but the rarity of the cabinet and 'slightly smaller' backglass of the midway version has me wondering if this will be an impossible task. Anyone attempt something like this before?

Is this normal? If I hit the 8 ball, I’d say maybe 7 times out of 10 the ball will go right down the middle between the flippers. I watched several videos on YouTube. I didn’t see any of the machines doing that. I have a CPR playfield. There’s not much wiggle room with the plastics.

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Nope not normal. I spent about three hours on this area when I swapped to assure that it wouldn't happen. Need to adjust the plastics might have to fill n drill.

Picked one up a little over a year ago, and it also has a CPR playfield. I occasionally get some wild spins on the ball depending on which flipper slaps it in there, especially when backhanded from the right, but 90% of the time it easily falls directly on the left flipper.

Ok. Do you have some detailed pictures of where the holes should be or how it should line up?

This piece on the lower left under the “Lit Value” could be part of it. It seems to be sticking out into the lane.

I’m hoping what I can is take it apart and widen the holes of the lower plastics to give me some wiggle room.

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The ball rides on the right side edge of the clear plastic...
Over the years, the oem shape has been changed from deferent copies.

Maybe I need to find one of those different shaped plastics. If I can move this over, this point is going to be a problem. It’s going to be vulnerable to breaking. I sure done want to move that post.

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You can make a copy of the plastic. Then, you can cut/modify the new piece
to see how the ball rolls... you can make a piece with less of a curve from the "8"
ball target down to the entrance ,etc,etc,etc.

IIRC I moved the post from where the old PF had it, and added a recessed tnut underneath instead of a wood post. A lot of EBD have that minipost in differing locations, and a lot of them the side of the PF where the drops are gets blown out. The PF was an IPB from about 2006 or so, so I was lucky in that it wasn't dimpled anywhere. (I consider this a bonus....)

I knew from a previous bally NOS '84 swap that the dimples are off, and you need to tweak a lot of stuff for it to play correctly. The 8 ball area, the left rollover lane to the top, and the inlane guides are all critical in having the game play smoothly.

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I’ll mess with it and see if I can do anything with it without major surgery. I’m pretty sure I have a t-nut under there for that mini post. It’s been frustrating. I hit that 8 ball and then right down the middle it goes.

Also I wonder if the slope of the game makes a huge difference here? I have mine a little steeper than most set the older ones up (I still get TONS of side to side drains so it's not making it easier!!). I've not had an issue and this game has been in both my older house and my current one, and I doubt that I had the slope exactly the same in both cases. I do know at some point for a laugh I put some 2x4's under the back legs just to see how ridiculously fast it was. That was funny. I haven't played it in a while but IIRC the 8 ball shot returns to the right flipper.

That’s interesting. The videos I’ve seen have the ball return to the left flipper. My game isn’t too steep. I’ll check it but I’m guessing it’s around 6 degrees.

Slope and level will make a huge difference. Games were set up in the lab by leveling the bottom of the cabinet. On location I liked to speed up the game by raising the rear legs about halfway. Make sure your game is set up with a level cabinet before adjusting the plastics. Plastic ball guides wear down over time wich is why they started using metal. Nobody like a game where the ball will drain after completing a feature.

It appears my bottom plastic has little sharper edge that projects toward the left at the bottom, which might be the reason the ball trajectory seems to be slightly different from others’?? And yes, I’ve also read somewhere that the clear plastics on this game can have inconsistent shapes. Weird…

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That edge definitely points more to the left. Seems like it would be vulnerable to breaking since the mini post really isn’t protecting it.

So far so good, but you’re right. I’m thinking I could use my dremel to round out that pointy edge without significantly changing the angle at which the ball falls back out. Not fail safe for sure, but better maybe.

Well this was dumb on my part. This will cause it to drain for sure. I leveled it and only needed a tiny adjustment of the plastic to correct this. Now I’m looking at the left side. The 2x 3x etc will often drain right down the middle. I don’t think there’s much I can do here. It seems that a direct hit without hitting a side plastic will cause it to drain.

The other issue is that it’s only set at around 5.2 degrees. The back is all the way up and the front all the way down. 3” levelers in the back. I think you lose some slope with the newer style legs with the threaded nuts. I’m going to need to slip something under the back legs if I want to raise it. I have the same slope issue with my Mata Hari.

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I have the same problem with getting a good slope on my EBD-LE. I have the back 3" levelers all the way up, and the front levelers all the way down, and the slope still isn't quite steep enough. I haven't measured it lately, but it is definitely more "floaty" than I would like.

The multiplier drops are drain monsters for sure. Mine the 4x is especially dangerous. This isn't something that I would 'fix' though, as that's the way it always was playing it way back when. Try backhanding them, that's safer.

Yes definitely more floaty than I would like also. Mata Hari plays even slower because it’s an original playfield.

Good to know. I won’t mess with it. Thanks.

On mine it depends on how hard I hit the 8 ball target as to whether it might go STDM. A hard hit gives a fast rebound and always goes to the left flipper, a wimpy ball that just barely makes it to the target is more likely to drain between the flippers. In the latter case I might give it a nudge just before it exits that right plastic. Just goes with the territory. The multiplier targets don't give me a real problem there either, ball usually rattles around in there without exiting smoothly in a prescribed path like the right side so you take what you get. Great thing about EBD is the flipper gap is VERY forgiving so you can save a hell of a lot of balls from draining.

I've seen this as being typical of EBD, and on tutorial videos you'd find on YouTube, the multiplier shots are often referred to as risky for this reason.

Yeah if it’s a weak shot it can definitely still drain. I took the plastics off and opened a couple holes in the plastics so I could give it a little more of a twist toward the left side. Moving that mini post to better protect the plastic would leave a very visible hole that I’d have to try to fix.

Good to know. I’ll have to watch a few more videos.

That's not a bug. That's a feature.

I have done the same to stop from balls getting stuck as much on the right hand drop targets. Without the extra height it is just a magnet for getting stuck and a subsequent tilt.

You mean the left hand targets? I like my EBD set to a relatively low 'factory' slant and the ball never gets stuck on the multiplier drops. Are balls getting stuck because the targets are too high, or too low?

Right hand bank of billiard numbers. Targets are too low and the ball often finds its way into a groove there.

I shimmed mine up slightly to prevent that. Piece of cardboard held on with binder clips.... Great hack.

If you can take a pic next time you are under there I would appreciate it!

Some EBDs have an adjustable bottom plate too, where you can loosen the screws and move it up/down for target height adjustment.

Even with the targets level with the playfield, there's enough space between the targets for a slow moving ball to get stuck.

They came out with a fix from the factory at some point.

I just made my own.

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I heard that, unfortunately on my '81 it does not.

I would love to know how you made that fix as I would love to solve this...

Somewhere earlier I saw someone post a fix. Then I did it to mine and it works perfectly for both sets of drops IF you dont have the adjustable mech version. It is simple and easy. I cut a piece of cereal box top the length of the drop mech. the box top is now roughly 6" by 1/4". I put two pieces of double sided tape (each tape piece probably 1/4" by 1") under the cut box top corners and placed in in the bottom of the mech. Now when the drop targets drop, they are resting on this cardboard, not the bottom of the mech. So it raises them up the thickness of the box top. For me, one strip of cereal box top was exactly the right amount raising the top of the drops, when dropped, exactly level with the playfield. No more issues.
Will snap a pic, later, but it really was as simple as cut a strip of cereal box top, and tape it to the bottom of the mech under the drops so that they rest on it when down.
You might need more or less adjustment, ymmv. 5 min fix.

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So went to get a pic of the cardboard shim and found out only 1 part is still on the drop bank - for the 1/2 targets, the other half sheared off who knows when and doesn't appear to be in the machine? (Unless I'm forgetting and only did those 2 targets.... this was 15-16 years ago....)

But it's a very slight adjustment, just to make the drops when they're down stand a little proud of the playfield maybe 1/16" - that's enough that a ball won't get stuck there. My EBD I noticed is a shallower slope than the machines its between (bk/meteor) and about the same as the flash gordon on the end of the row. I don't find it floaty, but there are a lot of side drains. Just the way it's intended....

While I've got the PF out I'm going to be yoppsicle'ing it as the 555's get noticeably warm at parties.... for the attract mode/playing.

I think I will modify the drop bank (mine's non-adjustable) to allow it to be adjustable if I can.

BFaster slochar I really appreciate the effort here! I will try that for sure. The fix shown where the gap was filled is very interesting also, I am curious if it is one single piece or individual and how that was mounted.....

One piece of box top cut to the length of the mech worked for me. Mounted it with only a small bit of double sided tape under each edge.
Once piece was the right height for me. You may need to experiment with thinner or thicker paperboard. But one piece of cereal box board was perfect for mine.

Also, two thumbs up for Yopsiccles. My 81 EBD was a basket case. Did a complete rebuild with CPR playfield, etc. But switching to Yoppsicles was the best part of my upgrade. highly recommend.

I had a Flash Gordon that had a metal strip that was screwed down at the same location
of the bottom plate from the factory...
In all, I guess it depends on the design style of the plastic drop target.

I never really felt the need for those metal 'fingers' between the targets on my game. I only recall the ball getting hung up between the targets once in 20+ years. If you dial in the height just right, I don't believe it should be a major issue in actual play but could if they are sunk down, even just a little bit. The tops of the targets are slanted slightly which helps the ball roll back away from them.

The old Stern targets with the hoods that extended over the sides would have been a good idea here. I don't think Bally ever used that style, did they?

I have a CPR playfield with a thick clearcoat, and the lowered drop targets caused the ball to hang often. So I used a narrow, wooden paint stirrer that was the EXACT length I needed. Slightly wider than a popsicle stick, but the perfect thickness. Works very well. I also have seen magnetic tape used. No adhesive necessary.

Nope. But Bally did modified the back of the drop targets twice.
1) Two parallel bars to keep the ball from hanging on the back side.
1a) Some games have the ball's capability to traverse the backside of the D/T while
--- the D/T is up. eg the eight ball target on EBD.
2) Finally, a wedge point for the drop targets used on Truck Stop.

Hello Fellow EBD fans. I need your advice and opinions please

I have been thrilled to be the owner of EBD "classic" #02416 for over 25 years.

Around 2006, I bought this Illinois Pinball reproduction playfield. I have very little PF changeover experience. I have extensive experience in PCB repair, as well as shopping out and repairing SS pinball.

I was considering doing this changeover. The original playfield is actually pretty good, factory mylar removed circa 1999, minor touchups, and HUO since then.

I just noticed that the IPB PF has almost NO drilling, and no dimpling. How much does this matter? After all, my current original 1984 playfield is the one with the lamp boards.

Any thoughts on the IPB repro PF? Someone wants to swap me for a modern CPR GOLD, and I was considering it in that the CPR is dimpled and drilled. Any Thoughts? Who would you suggest to do this changeover to the IPB PF if I chicken out? Thanks, mk

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Illinois Pinball EBD is the closest to the OEM EBD produced by Bally.
CPR took their own liberties with the colors that they wanted on their EBD.
The person that wants to swap is smart. I too, would rather have a Illinois Pinball than a CPR
EBD reproduced playfield.

Stick with the IPB one. If you need someone to swap use dmacy he's done lots of swaps for people (see his work on his threads).
I have the IPB one in mine myself, and the lack of dimpling is a *BONUS*. The dimpling is NEVER correct so you have to adjust anyway (that's if you're experienced with swaps you realize this).

Do not swap at all.
A EBD with a good original playfield is a rare thing and much more collectable than one with any aftermarket reproduction playfield.

Amen!