Ok so just had it happen, game stops, lights stay on, displays go out, and it sounds like a siren, audio on/off like a ambulance, then the game comes back on (displays) and it is at attract mode

The siren and reboot is the slam tilt activating. Might not be a slam switch itself, could be an issue somewhere in the switch matrix causing that switch to be ghosted.

There are two slam switches in the game, one on the back of the coin door near the hinge, the other near the tilt plumb-bob in the cabinet for people lifting then dropping the game.
There are none attached under the playfield, rather the playfield weighted switch is just a normal tilt switch.

ah! thank you.
So my thought was those slam switches were in a row or column but the switch matrix kind of has them set aside but on ST1. Are they in a row or column I can narrow down, or am I just going to have to inspect each switch?

Looks like every switch has a diode (4004 I have these on hand) and a few targets and pops need a cap (.05 mfd, i'll order some from PBL).

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Below is a diagram I'm re-using. Cabinet/Coin door switches are added in the matrix.
Slam is at switch #16 (Strobe #1, Return I7)

Go into switch test mode and see what it tells you.

Make sure neither of the slam switches are gapped too closely.
Inspect the three coin chute switches. They don't have diodes so commonly cause ghosting when they're stuck closed. If one or more of those coin switches don't exist make sure someone hasn't taped the wire ends together so they're touching.

Somewhere in the matrix a diode is shorted or a switch is touching a lamp. When two switches close (typically a drop target/saucer is involved) that form a box configuration from the bad switch to the slam switch in the matrix, that's when slam gets ghosted as active.
EBD_SwitchMatrix_Caps.jpg

The under playfield switch is tilt not slam.
Slam has 2 switches, one on the door and another by the roll tilt.

Both slam switches were not closed and operated good. I in switch test they both were open and when closed showed switch 16. All three coin switches worked too. There is a freeplay button soldered onto one, I have it tucked away, I can desolder that but it isn't pressed.

Lower pop switch seems tight as the pop goes off randomly/often. So sounds like I may need to cut some capacitors and do some switch testing.
Testing diodes is normal? cut a leg off and test, every switch? I figured Id start with the column/row of the slam switches but knowing the ole bally it could be anything.

No need to cut diode legs, those switch diodes can be tested in circuit since the non-banded leg ends at the open switch contact - i.e. the diode is already in an open circuit (provided the switch is open).

Actually the problem will likely be on a different row and column. Basically anywhere.

Ah! Seriously, thank you for the information and knowledge! I’ve only fixed a handful of Bally/sterns and none had an issue like this before. It is super fun learning about them! I’ll be back at the location again to test switches and see if I can fix it!

I’m looking for some help. I picked up an LE and there was not an outhole kicker coil in it. I picked up the coil and now I am wondering if someone can tell me or send a picture of what wires go to which lug? There seems to be four wires available. Thanks in advance.

let me look at my shop out pics

I went to do a service call and upon arival they guy asked if i would just buy it instead of fixing it. Not what we agreed on but i couldn't say no to the price he gave me so, I joined the club.

I had never played this title and it actually played and what i was there to fix was the flipper would just die mid game until powered off and back on.

Well, i dont add anything to my lineup without going through it and man this cleaned up nice and boy is it fun. I will admit that i spent to long on trying to figure out why my DELUXE letters were not lighting up on the backbox. I finally searched it and a long face palm latter I called it done. The cab is faded out and a couple other condition things but nothing that effects play.

Flipper issue was one of the drop target coils was burnt out and giving a short. The allteck solenoid board made finding that much easier. Glad someone in the past had put it in there.

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shoot my pics are only of the top side where you can't see the wires.
Here is the manual w/ the outhole switch and coil though. you could trace back the wire and diode.

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Last night I was at the bar, lifted ebd pf and tested all the switch diodes I could find under the pf. None failed. I suppose there is the outhole kicker too....

BUT what I did find was when I flipped the left flipper(s) often the lower pop would fire. At first I thought it was just a tight switch that would cause it because the vibration/game shake, but no. the coil just fires and the switch never closes. Is this some voltage leak situation on the solenoid power board?

Hi guys, I played EBD for the first time today and made a little video.

What a charming game it is . . . . I want to get one of my own now.

Switch cap on pop? Needs replacement. Or maybe it's getting back emf from the flipper. Sort of normal rarely but Everytime is a problem.

Oh crap! Forgot to verify the switches with caps! I even had them with me. Once I shop roller disco out, I may grab ebd to bring home and make this fix easier.

It's a known issue with EBD because the switch harness and solenoid harness are bundled together. I had this issue after restoring my own.

I ended up separating them from the head down into the game as far as I could go. Cut the zip ties, separate wires, zip tie again.

Kind of a pain but it solved the issue.

No joke? Oh, well I may have to do this. Thanks for that tip.

No joke. I forget what was going on with mine but while I was playing, a random coil would fire. Kind of weird, but it did this a number of times during a game.

I want to say it was a pop coil that would fire.

Yes, mine does the same thing. Occasionally a pop will fire for no real reason (usually when activating a flipper).

I didn't know that this could be fixed by separating the harnesses. I'll have to try that at some point, thanks.

Right? When I make my harnesses I generally group the lights in one and the solenoids and switches together in another. I may have to do EBD in three steps to keep them separate. Or group the switches with the lights. I will be taking orders for EBD harnesses in a couple months after I finish with KISS. Should be fun...

Shawn

I still have two EBD orange pop bumber caps available if anyone needs a spare. PM me...

Please be patient as I am a newbie to Pinball ownership. I recently aquired an EBDLE that was reworked. I would like to reset the High Score to 0 if possible. I know you can do it somehow by getting in to the setup by pushing the little red button on the coin door. When I got to where I think it was, I could make the score go up (by pushing the start button), but not reverse or go down anyway?
In pushing buttons to try resetting it, I seemed to reset other things as well. (starts with 1 ball drop target down, and 2000 points before ball is played).
I would like to do a complete reset of everything back to like it was a new machine. Is there a way to do this?
Thanks ahead of time for the help.

Welcome to pinball ownership! If you haven't already, be sure to download the manual for your game and have a look at Page 13:

https://www.ipdb.org/files/5021/Bally_1984_Eight_Ball_Deluxe_English_Manual_with_paginated_schematics.pdf

When you get into the setup via the red button on the coin door as you've discovered, advance to the high game setting (there are three of them). When you're on each one of those settings, you can quickly reset each one to 0 by pressing the button located ON THE MPU BOARD. Here's a shot from my game (not an LE version but you should get the idea).

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And before someone says "hey, you should get that 40-year old leaky battery off of your MPU" that photo above was taken before I restored my EBD, lol. Here's a more recent shot with the battery removed and NVRAM installed.

MPU Reset 2 (resized).jpg

On later games I think you can get the scores to count down or clear by clicking the #3 coin switch. Check in the manual.

an update.

I verified diodes and they tested fine (in circuit/on switches). The lowe pop going off when flipper flipped was odd but sounds like I need to separate the wire harness(es). Today when I went and checked the game out, I found many did not have caps on them, like all 3 pop bumpers, the star roll over. So I added the caps and now almost all 3 pop bumpers fire when flippers are flipped and the slam still happens after playing a bit.

Look like I'll be pulling the game off route and potentially getting some test roms/rom burner so I can narrow down some things.

Yes, as a convenience, the coin chute #3 switch replicates the S33 button switch on the MPU board to clear/reset score level awards/book-keeping data; page 3 of the Eight Ball Deluxe manual.

When adjusting score level awards, you can make it count downwards by holding the start button and tapping the red test/audit switch at the same time; page 8 of the Eight Ball Deluxe manual.

ok so I've definitely read manuals, and disassembled the code, and I *NEVER* knew this was native to this level of OS. I thought I'd come up with that on my own with the stern stuff and the slam switch to go backwards.

Proves that you can read something 100s of times and just gloss over some of it.

It was actually added native as early as version "35" level OS code, i.e. Harlem Globe Trotters onwards.

When all I had was my Playboy, I coded the "hold start button and tap diag button" to replicate the S33 MPU switch, without knowing it was later used to toggle backwards/forwards counting.

BTW, the real S33 activity switch on the MPU board will show up as switch "00" on all player displays in switch test mode when you release it - again, Harlem Globe Trotters onwards.

That I knew from one of your previous code comments.

Code was revised in response to operator complaints that they hated having to go into the backbox to reset bookkeeping numbers. They also asked for an adjust down feature all accessible from the front door. Doug Macdonald was working on the keyboard entry for the 6803 set so this change was meant to be a short term fix.

I recently got an EBDLE and I noticed it has no knocker installed. I thought it would be easy enough to find the wires that used to lead to the knocker so I could add a new one, but I can't find them anywhere. Is the knocker coil not located in the top left of the backbox? Maybe I just need to look harder...

It’s not in the backbox. On all editions it’s in the lower cabinet along the right side.

Hi Folks- a newbie here who's getting back to his EBD LE project to start the new year.

I attached a pic of the game during its lamp test- seems the lights that are out have some proximity, so I thought maybe it was a broken bare wire. Checking the bare wire, I found that all the lights that are out have continuity among them, but not with the bare wire of other lights that are working.
Is it as simple as a broken ground wire? Or are there different 'kinds' of bare wire circulating the underside of the playfield?

Thanks for anything!
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The common is a 6.3v power bus not ground. Since some lights are working but not those I'm guessing there is a break in the feed to that portion of the SI bus. Look for a 20, clue wire that should deliver the power to that bus.

Thanks for these answers. BigAl, I've written it down: "not every bare wire means ground!"

But nothing obvious there, I really hoped it would be given how all of the dud lamps are grouped together in the same 'zone'.
Wiggling/jiggling hasn't turned up anything either, so (sigh) it's down to addressing the connectors as suggested by pindel.

Will disappear and return with more, like it or lump it lol.

What do you get for voltage measurement on the bare wire on the lamps affected?

There are a couple 'sets' of bare wires in the game, hopefully they aren't crossed as odd things will happen (possible dead short.... this is usually only a concern if you just swapped PF's or had to reattach some wires).

I'm getting about 1 V DC for those that are off, and I'm getting just shy of 4V DC for those that are on. Some of the GI lights I've measured are 6.6 V AC.

Yes, this was a recently shipped machine whose (LE version) backbox had to be completely reconnected after it arrived.

Aand you know what I just noticed now- some detached wires which are partly connected to a free play button near the cabinet door. Neato.

Ok, so interesting development- I noticed a black/white ('85') wire which was severed a foot or so from its connection to the power module at bottom of the cabinet. Can't tell if it was deliberate or not, but the 2 ends weren't capped or protected. Anyway, this gives a whole lot of continuity to the 'off' bulbs, and also to the GI lamps that are working. All sounds good to me but I didn't want to just connect something and power it on (too scared of everything).

The problem is in the manual's drawings (see pic below)- wiring diagram doesn't seem consistent with the schematics. This severed wire I figure occupies Pin 8, which on one diagram is considered 'null' but on the other diagram is the 'SW ILL Bus'. No mention of an '85' color wire anywhere...

Granted this is an EBD LE, I'm thinking this '81 manual might have subtle differences without the LE's socketed lamps...I dunno, I want to twist those broken ends together and have at it, but I'm not ready for barbecue season if it goes wrong.
pic of problem (resized).jpg

The power module and wiring diagrams are usually generic and may miss some game specific differences.

Can you see that Black-White wire soldered to the power braid running to all those non-working lamps anywhere?
Can you post a clear picture of under the playfield showing the area of the non-working drop target lamps and working rack lamps? More pictures the better.

Yes, here is a sequence of underside shots.
The non-working lamps include the entire target lamp set (i.e. the entire socketed board), and the mid-playfield inserts (including left side toward rollover, and right side toward 8ball and saucer).

On one you'll see I drew a red arrow pointing to a black-white wire that looks to be leading to the centre of the problem area- I think it connects to the lamp under the blue '50000' insert (among the others currently not working).
lower playfield working (resized).JPGmid playfield working (resized).JPGmid playfield non working target lamps (resized).JPGshowing black white wire (resized).jpgbumper area (resized).JPG

Do you see a thick blue wire hooked up to the braid on the working feature lamps?

I would reconnect the black-white wire. There's the possibility it was shorted somewhere on the playfield which is why it was cut but who knows. You may want to carefully inspect the braid it's connected to looking for an obvious short to something that shouldn't be.

I just dug out a scrap EBDLE pf harness that I have. The black/white wire is connected to a 19 housing, end of connector next to a green/yel wire. I don't know why someone would have cut it, maybe it was just damaged some way. But it does go the pin 8 of the J1 connector. The 81 version EBD did not have the lamp PCB's so this connection was not used and is not shown in the manual. You need to be looking at an actual LE manual to confirm.

Keep in mind that this has nothing to do with GI lamps. Typically on these games the socket is the blame. The wedge base socket was a bad design which lets dirt and oxidation to the contacts, therefore leaving you with a flaky connection. If the game has been sitting a while, you will need to remove each bulb, test it and clean the contacts with a qtip and rubbing alcohol, or burnishing tool. In some cases, the contacts might need to be tweaked as they may have spread too far apart to make a solid connection. At any rate, this is usually only a temporary fix and you need to replace the sockets with a bayonet type socket.

Early versions of the EBD-LE also did not have the lamp PCBs. That may be why the wiring diagram is incorrect.

There are two versions of the EBD-LE, but I don't know if there are two versions of the manual for EBD-LE.

I forgot about that.