Hi, just had the aux light board serviced and no lights on deluxe letters on playfield, the left and right side score bonuses, 4 main lights top left and right and thumper bumper lights, all other lights working, Any help thanks
(Topic ID: 275076)
Fairview Park, OH
Hi, ok will do, I unplugged all the connectors to the aux board and no change, what do you make of that?
Btw the dim lights was a fuse, so no lights on the deluxe letters ,left and right bonuses, thumper bumper lights and 4 main lights top left and top right on each side. Thanks
Just a hunch but make sure the pin connectors are hooked to the proper places on the light board. The two connectors are very similar looking and can easily be put in the wrong spot. I'm talking about the two on the right side of the light board. I've made that mistake!
Also, did you run the extra wire that came with the light board if you bought the new board verses the old one. I have a couple of old extra boards for sale if you need them. They are sold "as is"
When I unplug all connectors nothing changes surely some lights would work so not sure what the problem is, it’s like there is no power going to it.
Quoted from Blackice:When I unplug all connectors nothing changes surely some lights would work so not sure what the problem is, it’s like there is no power going to it.
Seems like you may not be getting power or not getting ground. Your flaky looking wires with the tape on them on the right connector, those are for ground connection, they always get burnt over time and cause failure and the pins get fried as well. Make sure you have good ground coming in there and into the board, the top three pins on that connector. You could run a wire from a ground plate in the head directly to that ground trace and see if anything lights up.
s-l1600 (9) (resized).jpgthanks re pinned the earth and nothing.I traced those earth wires one goes to the lamp board and the other to power board
Since it appears that you might be new and starting out, I can recommend this website. It is especially good for beginners, but contains lots of information for people of all skill levels:
To answer your question, a good place to start is with the manual.
Have you gone into the service menu and selected the 'light all lamps' option? When you do, check to see which lamps do not light. Also listen for a relay that is under the playfield.
EBD, as it is known, has so many lights that they had to install an Aux Lamp Board. If you have several out, I suspect that it is due to that board. You seem to have confirmed it by unplugging that board. In your manual, there is a page labelled as Wiring Diagram Playfield. There is also an Aux Lamp Driver schematic. It has listed all the different lamps on plugs A9J2 and A9J3. If they are all out, then you are right, the problem is with that board.
The next step would be to measure the voltage. Hook your voltmeter to V DC. Put the back lead on TP2 and the red lead on TP1. It must be close to +5 VDC.
Blackice responded: "Hi, hooked up voltmeter it reads +5.2 vdc
I can hear the solenoid relay click when I touch that lamp just above it with earth wire, thanks"
The next tests would be a bit more challenging. In a perfect world, you would have a Digital Logic Probe and be able to confirm that the data to turn these lights on and off are coming into J1 pins 1-4.
http://homepinballrepair.com/index.php/how-to-use-a-digital-logic-probe-for-pinball-repair/
A Digital Logic Probe is something that I think every pin owner should own, if they are going to be doing repair work on their own. If you don't have a probe, there is almost no way to be able to check to see if this board is working.
I would ask that you compare the list of lamps that are not working on your playfield, with the list of those lamps in your manual on has the Aux Lamp Board. We need to know if any lamps are also out that are not controlled by that board.
Blackice said: " I checked under playfield earth on braid wire then touched every lamp and they all light up."
If by this you mean that you checked every light that is out, and grounded the control wire and the lamp lit up, then that does mean that the lights are getting power.
I am going to take a look at my EBD and see if I can figure out which wires could be involved.
Screen Shot 2020-08-20 at 1.42.01 PM (resized).pngQuoted from frenchmarky:or not getting ground. Your flaky looking wires with the tape on them on the right connector, those are for ground connection, they always get burnt over time and cause failure and the pins get fried as well. Make sure you have good ground coming in there and into the board, the top three pins on that connector. You could run a wire from a ground plate in the head directly to that ground trace and see if anything lights up.
frenchmarkey is spot on here. I had the same problem in my EBD and it was the black/white wires at the top of Aux. Lamp D/B, connector J1. I repined those wires to the second and third pins down in the connector (no lower!) and the lamps worked great.
Quoted from Alan_L:More
and it was the black/white wires at the top of Aux. Lamp D/B, connector J1.
I meant white/black wires.
I'm still not convinced that you have a good ground to that board. Looks like a nice job using the Molex connector and the white/black wires to connector J1, pins 1 and 2. But did you reflow the header pins 1,2 & 3 from the solder side? Also, can you follow those white/black wires back to their source to see if they have a good connection at the source?
Ok 4 lights have come on the left side of playfield the bonus lights,but they are staying lit all the time. I tested wire to earth on the scr the aux board and some scr’s lite up 4 lights at once. Does that mean the aux board is faulty or something else? Thanks
Coatbridge
Ok - so you have re-pinned the Earth connections so:
1) make sure there are no dry joints on the connectors - very common problem!
2) Check you have 5vdc on TP1
3) Thereafter - as your IC's are all socketed I would turn off - remove U3, U4 & U5 - turn on and see if anything extra works. If it does - then turn off and add one IC back at a time to see which one is shorting out the board. Also removing U2 at some point to make sure it's not him...
If nothing extra happens in step 3 then it's probably U1 that's buggered...
2020-08-23 (1) (resized).pngAt the beginning you said you had this board serviced - so you had the board repaired? If so, what was wrong with it then, the same problem, or something else?
Ok did the test removed ic u5 to u2 and the only change is the left lights that were staying on went out, put all ic’s back and same, should I replace U1?When I play a game the lights sometimes transfer from the 4 left lights 10K 30k 50K and extra ball to XE and all 3 thumpers.
Yes board was serviced but I might have shorted something with all testing. The IC’s is U1 different from the others?
Quoted from Blackice:The IC’s is U1 different from the others?
Correct--U1 is a different type of chip than U2-U5.
Replaced chip No.1 but no luck,do I need to replace all the Ic’s? is it true if one of the transistors pop on the aux board it won’t work? Thanks
Quoted from Blackice:is it true if one of the transistors pop on the aux board it won’t work? Thanks
If one of the thyristors (SCRs) on the aux lamp driver board blows, either the associated lamp will always be stuck on or never turn on, depending on the resulting failure of the SCR.
Have you got a logic probe?
The aux lamp driver board shares all the same control signals as the main lamp driver board except for one signal called "Lamp Strobe #2" which enables communications with the aux lamp driver board. I suspect you might have an open circuit on that signal (Grey wire) either at the MPU board connector J1 pin 8 or the other end at the aux lamp driver board at connector J1 pin 3.
Quoted from Blackice:how can I test this
With a logic probe 
Doing it the low tech way, grab your multimeter.
Set it to resistance mode. If your meter isn't auto-ranging set it to the 200k ohms range.
Make sure the machine is OFF.
Place either of the meter leads on pin 39 of U11 on the MPU board and the other meter lead on pin 9 of U1 on the aux lamp driver board. What resistance reading do you get?
The diagram below shows how to identify pin numbers on ICs - they're always numbered anti-clockwise.
Quoted from Blackice:I’m getting 21.8 is that normal?
If that reading is in "kilo" ohms (i.e. 21.8k) , then it's good.
The chip you have at U1 on the Aux Lamp Driver Board (ALDB) is a TTL 74LS175. Original spec is a CMOS 4175 or 40175 (MC14175, CD40175, HEF40175)
While they are logical equivalents, they are not electrical equivalents. The circuit is designed for a CMOS chip, not TTL.
If you place a short circuit (i.e. jumper a wire) across resistor R1 on the ALDB does the behavior change?
Ok so the tech. Who serviced the board put a wrong chip in it? Sorry a bit novice at this how do I jump R1
Quoted from Blackice:Sorry a bit novice at this how do I jump R1
Grab a piece of insulated wire. Strip a bit of the insulation (say 1/8") from each end to expose the copper.
Place one end of the wire on one leg or resistor R1 and the other end of the wire on the other leg of resistor R1. You're basically bypassing the R1 resistor by short circuiting it
See if this causes any change in lamp behavior.
Quoted from Blackice:Ok did it and lights on playfield went out and these lights came on, pic attached.
I would order the right chip.
These are the various part numbers from different manufacturers to look for: MC14175, CD40175 or HEF40175
Note these might also come in surface mount packages which you don't want. You want DIP (Dual Inline Package).
Great Plains has them:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4175
Think about getting a logic probe.
Pin 7 is N/U and 9 is correct? Connector plugged in nice and tight continuity checked all good?? Check out original plug photo in previous post pins 8=green 9=grey 10=yellow 11=red
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Blackice:As for that square plug getting hot here is a pic of it. There are many wires that get hot here.
The connector housing is looking a little toasty around some wires indicating the connectors are under stress from high current and the connector terminals have suffered. In particular these are likely the lamp (both G.I and feature lamp) circuits.
The easy option is to just replace the incandescent lamps with LEDs to reduce the current draw.
Otherwise the crimp terminals in the housing are a bit of a pain to replace - a special extraction tool is needed to remove the old pins from the housing. The tool takes a bit of practice to get working properly:
From memory they are 0.062" size terminals so this is the extraction tool:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W-HT-2285
And 0.062" size crimp terminals:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=02-06-1103
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=02-06-2103
1 month later
1 week later
Another question does anybody know where I can get those plastic surroundings that are stapled on the back box door where the lights sit in.
Thanks
Quoted from Blackice:Another question does anybody know where I can get those plastic surroundings that are stapled on the back box door where the lights sit in.
PinballLife/Marcos has some, but they aren't exactly Bally style - maybe close. Look for 'Baffle' or 'Shroud'
These are Bally 3D printed style:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksshroud&sort=newest
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