(Topic ID: 362021)

Eight Ball Deluxe LE stuck switches 25 & 39.

By Sea_Wolf

65 days ago


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  • 116 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 56 days ago by slochar
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    There are 116 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
    #101 58 days ago

    I think I’ve finally tracked it down thanks to you making me do the continuity test. In the picture It looked like the common wire that goes to all the end tabs of the DELUXE targets was soldered on ok at the E switch but after closer inspection it was pretty much just laying by the tab. Resoldered that wire to the tab and the switch scores and sounds like it should.

    Still not sure why the 7 ball drop target is not scoring or sounding as of yesterday but I really appreciate all the help pindel and to Quench for solving the #25 switch issue and seeing that the #26 switch had been previously messed with which I’m sure detached that wire, not to mention spotting the misplaced speed jumpers. Sorry that I didn’t spot that earlier and saved you guys some time.

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    #102 58 days ago

    Also a big thanks to slochar for getting me to tug on the wires around the target bank. I wouldn’t have noticed the issue if I hadn’t of tugged again on those wires.

    #103 57 days ago

    Thought I could figure out why the 7 ball drop target does not score or sound but of course I’m stumped.

    The switch does not show closed on the switch test and even when jumpering across the switch tabs it doesn’t show closed on the switch test. It also won’t reset on startup if it’s the only target down.

    Diode is on correctly and wiring is solid when tugged on. Lastly, it was working a few days ago but doesn’t now and it was not working when I found the loose black common wire on the E target switch (26).

    Any ideas are certainly appreciated.

    #104 57 days ago

    Jumper at mpu board J2 pin 3 and 14 in switch test mode. Doesn’t register?

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    #105 57 days ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    Jumper at mpu board J2 pin 3 and 14 in switch test mode. Doesn’t register?
    [quoted image]

    Yes it then shows switch 23 as closed in the test. Thanks for all the help

    #106 57 days ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    Jumper at mpu board J2 pin 3 and 14 in switch test mode. Doesn’t register?
    [quoted image]

    Curious where you got that yellow schematic page from. I have the manual but I assume that’s a separate schematic and when looking on PBR’s website he doesn’t list just the schematic for sale but does offer a schematic/manual for sale. I didn’t know if it is available separately somewhere. Be nice to have.

    #107 57 days ago

    When checking continuity like we did on switch 26 between the harness plug wires 3 and 14 to the two lugs on the 7 ball drop switch, I got the continuity beep on 3 attached to the inside lug but no continuity from the 14 wire to the outer lug.

    #108 57 days ago

    It should be attached to the back of your manual if original.

    If not download it from ipdb.org.

    Time to tug on wires again same as that other switch until you find the break and get continuity.

    #109 57 days ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    It should be attached to the back of your manual if original.
    If not download it from ipdb.org.
    Time to tug on wires again same as that other switch until you find the break and get continuity.

    Yeah I have the original binder manual but I bet an owner down the line scarfed it. Getting ready to double check and tug the wires.

    I probably ham-handed this one because it was working fine a week ago. I bet I also caused a short somewhere with the lamps, which suddenly started acting goofy.

    Thanks slochar

    #110 56 days ago

    https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=762

    Online manual can be downloaded. Way better than a paper manual. Easy to zoom up on pdf file.

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    #111 56 days ago
    Quoted from Sea_Wolf:

    When checking continuity like we did on switch 26 between the harness plug wires 3 and 14 to the two lugs on the 7 ball drop switch, I got the continuity beep on 3 attached to the inside lug but no continuity from the 14 wire to the outer lug.

    You may be on the wrong side of diode for continuity check.

    #112 56 days ago
    Quoted from pindel:You may be on the wrong side of diode for continuity check.

    How so? That would explain why I don’t see any loose connections.

    #113 56 days ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=762
    Online manual can be downloaded. Way better than a paper manual. Easy to zoom up on pdf file.
    [quoted image]

    Cool, thanks

    #114 56 days ago
    Quoted from Sea_Wolf:

    How so? That would explain why I don’t see any loose connections.

    Diodes only show continuity in one direction. But if you're measuring from the wire itself to the connector (just checking one wire for connection back to the board) it won't matter. Would only matter if you're trying to close the switch as well (which doesn't apply in this test)

    #115 56 days ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    Diodes only show continuity in one direction. But if you're measuring from the wire itself to the connector (just checking one wire for connection back to the board) it won't matter. Would only matter if you're trying to close the switch as well (which doesn't apply in this test)

    Ok thank you for the explanation. After pindel pointed out the switch matrix schematic that was helpful and I figured that I must have caused this latest issue, since it was working last week. After talking to DaMoib on the phone he pointed out that the brown-white wire that goes to the 7 ball leaf switch also goes on to the right outlane switch and the right pop bumper switch. Checked the outlane switch and it was fine but followed it to the right pop bumper switch and there it was, a loose brown/white wire there and the issue is resolved.

    After you said to gently tug on the wires I did but could not follow the wire visually to that pop bumper switch but with the schematic now available I see where it goes. Thanks to everyone who weighed in. This is really my first issues with a solid state machine so I also appreciate everyone’s patience.

    #116 56 days ago
    Quoted from Sea_Wolf:

    After you said to gently tug on the wires I did but could not follow the wire visually to that pop bumper switch but with the schematic now available I see where it goes.

    The schematic is a logical diagram, not a wiring diagram, so it's not always going to go from switch to the next switch below it directly.

    At any rate, I meant to tug on ALL switch wires, as a matter of course when troubleshooting, you should do this to make sure you don't have wiring issues on any game you get in.

    There are 116 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.

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