(Topic ID: 113669)

Eight ball deluxe LE questions

By chuckwurt

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 43 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Lovef2k
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

image-565.jpg
image-425.jpg
image-793.jpg
image-102.jpg
image-659.jpg
image-154.jpg
image-212.jpg
image-419.jpg
image-850.jpg
image-39.jpg
image-243.jpg
image-647.jpg
image-807.jpg
image-124.jpg
image-533.jpg
image-873.jpg
#1 9 years ago

I need help with a few issues my newly acquired EBDLE has.

1. Could I see a picture of a properly set up S&T board? I am not getting any sounds or speech and I want to make sure mine it setup properly.

2. My right flipper button is firing the left flippers, and the left flipper button does nothing. Could I see detailed pictures of the flipper wiring so that I can make the proper changes?

3. My MPU will boot properly sometimes, then if I turn the game off and back on again, it will not boot properly on the second go around (no flashes). Any ideas?

Thanks for the help!

#2 9 years ago

Also I noticed that the ball rail at the top of the shooter lane is not seated right. Is that just supposed to snap into those posts?

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Also I noticed that the ball rail at the top of the shooter lane is not seated right. Is that just supposed to snap into those posts?

Those posts are actually clamps. Loosen the screw, then push the rod in and retighten.

#4 9 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Much of the problems with Classic Bally are the connectors. Try pulling them off and reaseating them - if that "fixes" it, you know the connectors need replacing.

If you have that single white battery on the MPU board, cut that mother fncker off right now!

#5 9 years ago

Okay thanks for the tips. I'll go through the bulletproof thread and report back. I guess the only additional thing I need is to figure out why the left flipper button doesn't work, and why the right button operates the wrong side.

Thanks!

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

why the right button operates the wrong side.

Could be the connector is wired wrong on the Solenoid Driver Board.

Post some close up, well lit pics.

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I guess the only additional thing I need is to figure out why the left flipper button doesn't work

Does the coil have voltage?

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Does the coil have voltage?

Cannot check right now. My DMM is out of batteries and it needs a 9 volt haha.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

My DMM is out of batteries and it needs a 9 volt .

Take it out of the smoke detector, you have to replace it on Jan 1st anyway.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Could be the connector is wired wrong on the Solenoid Driver Board.
Post some close up, well lit pics.

Let me know if you need more.

J5
image-793.jpgimage-793.jpgimage-102.jpgimage-102.jpgimage-647.jpgimage-647.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

J4
image-425.jpgimage-425.jpgimage-659.jpgimage-659.jpgimage-154.jpgimage-154.jpgimage-456.jpgimage-456.jpg

J3
image-212.jpgimage-212.jpgimage-419.jpgimage-419.jpgimage-416.jpgimage-416.jpg

J2/J1image-124.jpgimage-124.jpgimage-533.jpgimage-533.jpgimage-807.jpgimage-807.jpgimage-873.jpgimage-873.jpgimage-565.jpgimage-565.jpgimage-850.jpgimage-850.jpgimage-39.jpgimage-39.jpgimage-243.jpgimage-243.jpgimage-807.jpgimage-807.jpg

#13 9 years ago

Can't tell from the pics, but on the Solenoid Driver Board, connector J1 is supposed to have pins 8&9 go to the two flipper coils and connector J2 has pins 1&2 go to the right and left flipper buttons.

#14 9 years ago

great. Thanks. I will follow these tonight and make sure the wiring is correct.

#15 9 years ago

Okay. J1 pin 8 is going to the left flipper coil. J1 pin 9 is going to the righ flipper coil. J2 pin 1 is going to the right flipper button, and J2 pin 2 is going to the left flipper button.

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Okay. J1 pin 8 is going to the left flipper coil. J1 pin 9 is going to the righ flipper coil. J2 pin 1 is going to the right flipper button, and J2 pin 2 is going to the left flipper button.

According to the schematics, that is all correct.

#17 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

According to the schematics, that is all correct.

Okay. So any other possibilities for the switch up? I will try and test to see if the right flipper coil is getting voltage later, but other than that, I am out of ideas.

#18 9 years ago

Check for continuity (actually short) between the right and left flipper switches.

#19 9 years ago

Relay could be bad.

Transistor could be bad.

Coil could be bad.

Flipper switch dirty/broken/maladjusted.

Wiring broken.

Pin contacts worn.

Pin solder joint broken on back.

#20 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Relay could be bad.
Transistor could be bad.
Coil could be bad.
Flipper switch dirty/broken/maladjusted.
Wiring broken.
Pin contacts worn.
Pin solder joint broken on back.

Haha. I somehow new the posibilities were many. Time to get to work. Thanks again guys.

#21 9 years ago

I blew the fuse in the solenoid driver board and just put in a replacement. Then I noticed that when I booted the game, none of the coin door switches work (credit button, credit switch, and self test button). Did I blow a fuse in the coin door?

I still have the noise static issue on the S&T board too. And the board boots fine. Just getting no sound or speech.

1 week later
#22 9 years ago

Here is a youtube video of what my EBDLE sounds like and me running the selftest of the S&T board. Any ideas as to why my sound is all messed?

#23 9 years ago

anyone got ideas for my sound issue?

#24 9 years ago

Try adjusting the 2 volume pots on the board. These usually fail from dirt and age, there's also a volume pot inside the coin door.

#25 9 years ago

I saw those. How do I adjust them? I tried turning them, but they wont budge.

#26 9 years ago

Fixed the flipper issue, the J1 connector on the SBD board was not seated properly. Now just need to figure out the pesky sound issue.

#27 9 years ago

Chuck, you could flip flop the 6821's on the mpu. One mostly controls sound and one controls switch matrix or lamps if I remember right. You then will see if things change. I think their both socketed. Todd Scott

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I saw those. How do I adjust them? I tried turning them, but they wont budge.

They should turn easily using your finger nail or a small screw driver.

#29 9 years ago

turn them clockwise for vol up and anti for down

#30 9 years ago

The pots are new, they don't need adjusting.
Check for proper installation of all plugs.
Check remote vol on coin door for broken wire, lug shouted to something, turned down.

Boot up game, press and hold red self test button on S&T board. It should go through
It's routine.

#31 9 years ago

I didn't watch his vid until now, yes they look like newer pots but maybe they were'nt installed correctly, or the wrong resistor value? You never know. It could be a number of things causing the sound to fail.

#32 9 years ago

I know, because I rebuilt that board, have played that game for a few years, without ANY failure.

The flippers worked, the 8ball tgt worked and the sound worked.

The only thing that happened, was that the machine was unplugged, the head removed, and the machine transported, and plugged back in.

The flippers and 8ball tgt problems were corrected when the SDB was properly plugged in.

Were I not 600 mi away, the sound would be working also. Unless, of course, something on the board has been fried from J1 not being plugged in correctly at some point.

And now you know the rest of the story.

#33 9 years ago

Exactly. And I am still a noob when it comes down to it, so I am sure it's really a simple mistake I have made plugging the game back in, just having trouble finding my mistake.

#34 9 years ago
Quoted from Validpowerdetect:

I know, because I rebuilt that board, have played that game for a few years, without ANY failure.
The flippers worked, the 8ball tgt worked and the sound worked.
The only thing that happened, was that the machine was unplugged, the head removed, and the machine transported, and plugged back in.
The flippers and 8ball tgt problems were corrected when the SDB was properly plugged in.
Were I not 600 mi away, the sound would be working also. Unless, of course, something on the board has been fried from J1 not being plugged in correctly at some point.
And now you know the rest of the story.

oh ok, I didn't realize it was your game, just grasping at ideas to help him.

#35 9 years ago

No harm, no foul

#36 9 years ago

Looks like speaker connector is backwards on sound board (orange wire should be pin 1). I wouldn't think that would be the problem......but ???

#37 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Looks like speaker connector is backwards on sound board (orange wire should be pin 1). I wouldn't think that would be the problem......but ???

I have flipped that little guy like ten times. Orange in 1, orange in 2, etc. No luck. Haha. I guarantee it's something stupid, I just can't find it. I have heard "quit talking and start chalking" since I was 12. Just want to hear it again. Haha. Thanks again for all the help fellas.

#38 9 years ago

I had a friend come over and he tested out a working S&T board and the sounds worked fine. He is going to see if he can repair mine and is letting me use the working one for the time being. Sounds good to me! haha. Thanks for all the help. This is a great game.

#39 9 years ago

Be sure you do the resistor mod before you give it back to him

#40 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Be sure you do the resistor mod before you give it back to him
» YouTube video

What the? Is that your game? How did you do that?

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

What the? Is that your game? How did you do that?

Haha, yeah, I was just goofing around. I left it that way for a couple of weeks to see how people would react. Funny stuff.

Replace resistor R9 with a trim pot. I used 500K because that's what I had lying around. Original R9 is 130K so you probably want at least 250K so you can adjust both higher and lower pitch.

#43 9 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Haha, yeah, I was just goofing around. I left it that way for a couple of weeks to see how people would react. Funny stuff.
Replace resistor R9 with a trim pot. I used 500K because that's what I had lying around. Original R9 is 130K so you probably want at least 250K so you can adjust both higher and lower pitch.

Kinda cool, I gotta try that some day. Can you do that with a Xenon?

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 29.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
 
$ 10.00
$ 18.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
 
$ 90.00
$ 33.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 69.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Pinball Pimp
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 8.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
 
$ 30.00
Lighting - Led
Pinballrom
 

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-le-questions and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.