Well I did it again. I am sure everyone here has been in a similar situation. Here is mine:

Putting back together my EBDLE after a playfield tear down, cleanup and reassemble. Played a couple of games and notice the rollover button was not working. Lifted the playfield and put my tester to it. Now I now better than this but did it anyway. I started testing without turning the game off. I put my tester to beep for continuity. I put my leads across the legs of the piece I circles in black in the picture. Wasn't thinking when I did that and didn't need to test it. Nothing happened that I noticed. Next I put the leads across the switch legs circled in blue and closed the switch. No continuity. Cleaned the switch contacts and retested and have continuity. Put the playfield down but it won't start a game. Turned off and on, lights on but not booting. Turned the game off and started testing fuses but puling them out one at a time and using the continuity tester again. Found F4 on the power supply module blown (5A slow blow). Replaced and found no other fuses blown. Power up and the game boots as should but now no score displays and no sound. Looked under the playfield again at th rollover button and noticed the diode (is that what it is, piece I circled in red) had a leg not connected. I reconnected that and not change. So I turned the game on and watched the MPU green led and it flashed 7 times correct. I reseated all connectors on the boards (even the power supply module) and reseated all plugs in the machine. No change. I have a regular EBD as well so I pulled the MPU from it and put it in the EBDLE (problem child) and I had the same symptoms. I put the MPU from the EBDLE to my EBD and it worked fine. I swapped the MPU's back to their original machines. So I am pretty sure its not the MPU. I am at a point I am not sure what else to test. Hopefully someone(s) here can help me get this thing back up and running.

rollover_(resized).jpg

Swapped the squawk and talk boards. One from the LE works in the other machine so the S&T board isn't bad.

Of note, it does play as it should.

I tested at tp1 to tp2, no voltage. tp1 to tp3 no voltage. Tp2 and ground lead to the ground strap got me 5V and tp 3 to ground strap got me 12v. Guess I have a ground issue. Do I need to physically trace the ground wire back or does someone know where Need to look for my issue?

I guess rectifier board is the power supply board under the playfield? I did reseat the connectors and they are pushed all the way in. I'll pull the board and reflow all the headers regardless of how they look.

Actually now that you mention it all the displays except P2 glow at the left lower corner. P2 does not glow at all. The game does go into attract mode and even starts a game after pushing the start button. I can play a game as normal except no sounds or displays. The big red wire is not touching the leaf. The perspective in the picture looks like it but it is actually a good quarter inch from that leaf.

Forgotten! Thanks.

I have the rebuild kit from big daddy enterprises for the solenoid driver and been meaning to get to it. I guess now is as good a time as any.

I did test TP2 and 3. Using TP1 as a ground I got no voltages. However using the ground strap I got correct voltages. I stopped after TP3 but I can test them all no problem. I'll report voltages back here. I will try to rebuild the driver board this weekend and I will reflow everything on the power module board this weekend as well.

To all those who are helping with this; I'm not ignoring the topic. I work out of town and its weekend work. I'll be back home Monday night so that's when I'll be able to chime in on new results. Quench I will get those readings soon after I get in the house and post back here Monday night.

Thanks guys.

Tp1 is 12.7v and tp2 on display is 197.5v. Tp2 on sdb is 197.5v. No led flashing on sound board.

S&t board, tp1 13.6v, tp3 15.3v, tp4 8.8v, tp5 13.7v, tp6 13.6v, tp7 13.5v, tp8 13.2v, tp9 13.5v, tp10 13.3v, tp 11 is strange it starts at 20v and climbs to around 60v, tp12 13v, that'sall the test points i see. I could not find tp2.

Wow, i just found the problem. I decided to reseat the plugs on the boards. Noticed j3 on solenoid driver didn'tfeel right. Pulled and its cracked. I carefully reseated it and all is well. Thanks for all the tips. I am going to be posting another topic dealing with a hum in the sound system. Would like to get that fixed.