(Topic ID: 152136)

Eight Ball Deluxe LE - High Voltage


By nwkadm

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by nwkadm
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 3 years ago

I have an EBD LE machine that I was working with to solve a Flickering Display issue. Someone posted that I should check the High Voltage Regulator section for C26 with bad solder joints and to check the voltage at TP2 and TP4. When I check the voltage at TP2, it is 230-240v and the same at TP4 (which I understand is correct). I am being told that TP2 should be around 190v or so and should be adjustable via the Pot on the board. I cannot adjust via the Pot as nothing happens when I turn it right or left.

After resoldering the posts of C26, my flickering display problem was solved but now I still have high voltage at TP2 - any ideas on what to replace would be appreciated.

#2 3 years ago

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from nwkadm:

I have an EBD LE machine that I was working with to solve a Flickering Display issue. Someone posted that I should check the High Voltage Regulator section for C26 with bad solder joints and to check the voltage at TP2 and TP4. When I check the voltage at TP2, it is 230-240v and the same at TP4 (which I understand is correct). I am being told that TP2 should be around 190v or so and should be adjustable via the Pot on the board. I cannot adjust via the Pot as nothing happens when I turn it right or left.
After resoldering the posts of C26, my flickering display problem was solved but now I still have high voltage at TP2 - any ideas on what to replace would be appreciated.

If TP2 = TP 4 than your high voltage is section is blown out. Check R51 / R58 on the driver board. If either looks burnt, that is another indication the HV section is blown out. When the trannies short out, it smokes one of those resistors.

Replace the three transistors, replace the two half watt resistor with 1W. Replace 1w with 1w. Replace the trim pot with 25k(or 30k which is slightly more available). Replace the transistors as a set unless you really know for sure only one is bad or you risk instantly blowing them back testing one at a time.

#4 3 years ago

I have taken some measurements and they are as follows (I am an amateur at this):

R35 - .4M
R51 - 200k
R52 - 383
R54 - 8k
R55 - 1200
R56 - 84k
VRi - .6 one direction and OL the other
CR20 - .55 one direction and OL the other
C23 - Beeps in both directions
C26 - .95 one direction and OL the other
C27 - 1.2 one direction and OL the other

Does this tell anybody anything?

#5 3 years ago

Check the manual for proper values of the resistors. You will have to compare the readings of your resistors with a multimeter

#6 3 years ago

active components are blown out if TP2 = TP4... typically it is...

Q21 2N3584 250volts, 2 amp, TO-66 NPN
Q22&23 2N3440 250 volts 1 amp TO-39 NPN

resistors will also burn up when the TP2=TP4... mainly the 22k and 82k half watt resistors. use 1w replacecments.

#7 3 years ago

I have obtained a list of parts that I have ordered and will replace all of the below:

Q21, Q22, Q23
VR1
CR21
RT1
F1
C26, C27, C28
R35, R51, R52, R54, R55, R56

Thoughts?

#8 3 years ago

I have had numerous Ballys with the HV in this condition. An unfortunate design choice by Bally to let the Displays go to full 240v and really cook the displays instead of having them go off, but I guess this design keep the game earning money.

I always just buy one of the "high voltage rebuild kits" that are available from many vendors. Just replace all of the parts with the parts in the kit. No need to think and try and figure out which part(s) are bad. Just replace them all and be done with it. These rebuild kits have always fixed the problem for me.

BTW, I turn my high voltage down to 160-170v (just turn the pot down all the way or until just before the displays go out). You won't notice a difference and I have been told it will dramatically increase the life of all parts.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from mg81:

I have had numerous Ballys with the HV in this condition. An unfortunate design choice by Bally to let the Displays go to full 240v and really cook the displays instead of having them go off, but I guess this design keep the game earning money.
I always just buy one of the "high voltage rebuild kits" that are available from many vendors. Just replace all of the parts with the parts in the kit. No need to think and try and figure out which part(s) are bad. Just replace them all and be done with it. These rebuild kits have always fixed the problem for me.
BTW, I turn my high voltage down to 160-170v (just turn the pot down all the way or until just before the displays go out). You won't notice a difference and I have been told it will dramatically increase the life of all parts.

Do you know of a source for Bally "rebuild kits" as I only can locate kits for Williams machines?

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