(Topic ID: 211772)

Eight Ball Deluxe LE - Game Won't Start

By jmulvenon

6 years ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by jmulvenon
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

I recently acquired an Eight Ball Deluxe LE for the low low price of free. It's been in a barn for the past four years but is in surprisingly great shape and largely free of issues save for a few here and there.

One of those issues is regarding the game start/crediting. The game will boot, play sound, reset drops, and go into attract mode but will not credit or start a game. A few points of order:

1. The test button does nothing. It appears to be soldered correctly and the wires follow into the harness as near as I can tell.
2. The displays do not currently light up.
3. The 3/16 fuse on the solenoid driver board is blown, awaiting replacement.
4. All other fuses are in working order.
5. The volume control on the coin door works, suggesting that the coin door is properly connected therefore defeating my leading theory that it was borked, technical term.
6. The MPU boots correctly, as in the LED flashes the proper 7 times to suggest good working order.
7. I've clicked the credit wire multiple times to coin up the game to no change.

What am I missing here? I feel as though there's something glaringly obvious that I'm simply overlooking. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#2 6 years ago

Two separate paths here the display HV and the door switches.

Since the game boots the MPU is probably good. It appears the coin door and cabinet switches are bad.
Does it tilt?
I suspect the j3 connector on the mpu needs to be reflowed. Pin 3 would kill all your coin door switches if it were bad.

as for the HV. disconnect all the displays then replace the fuse. You could have a bad display or bad HV circuit on the solenoid driver.

#3 6 years ago

1. Besides from reflowing the J3 on the MPU, it can't hurt to repin the connector. Also check continuity from the test switch to the connector
3. The fuse is for the displays, so that explains why they don't work.
7. Once you have your displays working you can use the switch test to track down the credit switch issues better.

#4 6 years ago

Awesome, thank you both. I'll take a look at that J3 connector this evening and report back my findings. I'll also check the tilt mech BigAl56 as I didn't think to check that as I only associate tilt with being in game.

#5 6 years ago

Alrighty, after some poking around last night I found some various things that I have complied into one big video. I thought this would be easier than attempting to digest all the various things.

I've also attached some images of the J3 connection referenced in the video. Of course I didn't notice standing in front of the damn thing just how corroded those pins are until I saw the photo, rather until my buddy fatcake pointed it out. So step 1 this evening is going to be to clean those off, and the more I think about it the more I'm guessing that's the issue.

Take a look at the video if you've got some time to spare, I'd appreciate it greatly. Of note in the video is the coil test, is there a coil that's not firing in between the slings and pops, after watching the video today I feel like it's a longer delay between those tests. Thanks.

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#6 6 years ago

Forgot one image of the underside of the playfield. I can't find a place to lock the prop bar into and keep it in the elevated position. This has been a huge pain when trying to work within the cab.

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#7 6 years ago

I see 3 main problems, cabinet switches out, no HV for the displays, no speech from the S&T board.

As for J3, I think its an open solder connection. Remove the board turn it over and resolder the connections on J3, and probably all the others if you can.
FYI, tilt is not working what you are activating is slam. I did notice the battery is still on that MPU board. You need to remove and replace it ASAP and look for battery acid damage.

You need to get the HV working for the displays. It will make troubleshooting a lot easier.

Finally, check the speech pot on the S&T board. Often they get turned down or dirty. If you crank it back a forth a bunch of times you may start getting speech.

Order a rubber kit. If you play the game with no rubbers on the flippers they will crack.

Also, better lighting will help with your pics and service.

#8 6 years ago

Definitely a flaky connection somewhere. If there's corrosion on the header pins of J3 you should really replace them, especially if cleaning them helps. And if they're corroded, the pins in the connector definitely need replacing too.

Note: a 'short' doesn't mean a bad connection, it means there is a connection when there shouldn't be.

#9 6 years ago

Thank you both, sincerely! I've got some work to do. Be in touch soon with I'm sure more updates, poorly lit photos (I'm an art director for a living, the lighting kills me too, promise), and hopefully a working and/or talking EBD LE.

For a quick update, new flipper bats, rubbers, HV fuse, NVRam battery replacement, and all sorts of other fun stuff is inbound from Marco, Pinball Life, and elsewhere.

#10 6 years ago

Hey BigAl56 could you help me out in locating the speech pot on the S&T board? I've located the 28 pin dip via the schematics in U8, is this what you're referring to? Thanks.

#11 6 years ago

The speech and Sound Pots are in the lower right corner of the S&T board next to the 5v regulator heat sink, #81 in the diagram.

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#12 6 years ago

Hey everyone, well it's been a minute since I last updated so I thought I'd share some progress.

That maniacal laugh I think says it all, ha! Still have a few things to figure out/repair, the roll over isn't working, the drop targets are slow and dirty, top left pop doesn't always activate, the sound hum is in full effect despite the hopeful fix of pulling it from the metal bracket a bit, and the knocker is still not connected. But it works, it actually works! The sound sometimes has some hiccups but I think recapping the whole S&T will solve those issues and the hum.

Thanks for all of your help, couldn't have got here without you. After working on my Grand Prix for nearly a year and still troubleshooting this was an extremely rewarding project. Whoever said, "hey James, buy a project EM for your first game you'll learn a lot" is dead to me.

Be back soon with a clean game, new rubbers, and all sorts of fun stuff. See you at Texas, maybe.

#13 6 years ago

Youll want to check the sound settings as it sounds like they are not set up for full sound. Go to self test setting #18 and set to 03 as below...

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#14 6 years ago

Damn you, James! Congrats on getting that thing working

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

Damn you, James! Congrats on getting that thing working

Hahaha jdoz2 once it's in the basement you can come put GC on it. Promise.

2 weeks later
#16 6 years ago

I'm going through and fixing all of the little nagging issues like the 4 ball drop target not registering consistently and the top rollover not working but one issue is larger than the rest. For some reason that I'm not sure why both of the left flippers are not working. The flipper mechanics appear to be in good working order, spring tension is set, and they'll move freely and return when moved by hand. I've included a number of pictures below as I'm honestly at a bit of a loss here.

There are a few "obvious" culprits in the photos:

1. The EOS switch is wonky af, that's a technical term.
2. The solder job at every point is just awful, but multimeter tells me that they're somehow working.
3. There's a few capped ends, could be normal, but I've included here, red cap and electrical tape.
4. Flipper button appears okay and making good contact but with nothing firing you never know if this is it.

Take a look through the photos if you have some time, if it were just one of the flippers this would be significantly less difficult to diagnose but every time I crack it open I'm a bit overwhelmed at all of the potential failure points.

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#17 6 years ago

Here's my thoughts on it. I'm still learning so take this with a grain of salt. I think the twist caps are from someone doing a coil swap and being too lazy to desolder the old coil and solder in the new coil.

So the original flipper wires (green and brown) appear to be running into the electrical tape and then run to the orange black wires. The schematic doesn't mention orange black on the lower left flipper. Which means someone did a coil swap but did it the hack way. Instead of soldering. They just cut and stripped wires and twisted them together.

I would suggest undoing their hack. This is what I would do.

1. Take tons of pictures of existing coil wiring. Even videos.
2. Untwist electrical tape.
3. See if the green or brown wires have enough slack to make it to the coil. If the don't then pull the wires out of the harness to get more slack.
4. Desolder one lug on the coil. Clean it up. Figure out which original wire needs to be soldered on to it.
5. Repeat step 4 with the next wire and coil lug. Knocking them out one at a time.

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#18 6 years ago

Generally sounds good! I might try just soldering a new length of wire on with some shrink wrap around it instead of pulling the wire out of the harness, depending on which is going to look cleaner in the long run

#19 6 years ago

Excellent, thank you both. Diagnosing hacky fixes is definitely where my knowledge starts to break down.

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