Try moving the trimmer pot on the sound bound. There are 2 one for voice and the other for game sounds. If it gets better or worse replace them. That's all I needed to do on mine. Big Daddy carries these.
(Topic ID: 107213)
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Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981
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This is driven from the Solenoid Expander Board. Make sure the bulb is lit. If not ,my guess is that you need to replace BR1 on the power supply rectifier board.
Quoted from beauimpala:Also the coil that kicks out the ball in the saucer shot is extremely weak too. No binding. Free movement. It's gets a pulse to move and it will, but not enough to kick the ball out.
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3 weeks later
Check for continuity from the switch to the backbox connectors. MPU (A4) connector J3, pin 1 and solenoid driver module (A3) J2 pin 7. The wire colors are Red (10) and Yellow/Red (31). There are 3 important things in this era of Bally and classic Stern pins to fix to have a stable game, connectors, connectors and connectors.
Here are the codes that Bally used, A3 = SDM and A4 = MPU. The wire color codes are written above the line in a box. Understanding these codes will go a long way in navigating the schematics.
Bally Codes.PNG
My guess is you need to rebuild/replace connector J2 on the SDU. Both problems you are having run through this connector. Use Trifurcon crimp contacts and a new housing. Here is a post that goes over the basics:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/molex-connectors-1
Quoted from HeavyKevvy:SuperChicken: I unplugged the two pin modules and verified zero resistance across the two pin modules with the test switch pressed, and also zero resistance at the switch across the two wires. Now that I have re-installed the pin modules, the self-test is working. Perhaps it was just a bit dusty, or one of the pins needed some patina removed. But thanks for the tips - was able to reset the bonus point levels at desired settings. (Freeplay40 - thanks for the tip on the reset button. I was able to zero out all the residual points on the bonus settings.)
Now, all of a sudden - mid-game - the left flippers stopped working. No response at all from pressing the flipper button. Playing four games, first ball was fine; second ball - no left flippers. Right flipper works just fine.
I have already have checked A3-J2-2 (Left Flipper) and against A2-J2-2, and compared it to A3-J2-1 (Right Flipper) and A2-J2-2. Both flipper switches read zero resistance when activated, so no continuity problems detected. All connector pins look ok. Any ideas? Took a peak underneath when powered up - no obvious arcing or smoked connections.
Is it just a coincidence that both the self-test button and the left flipper are connected to module A3-J2?
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