Now that the thread is started, I have a couple issues on my newly obtained EBDLE.

1. I know how to adjust the settings on self-test 16-22, but they don't stay set. I don't like to have my machine powered "on" all the time, so I turn it off when I am finished playing using the switch on the underside of the cabinet - but I do keep the machine plugged in to an unswitched outlet that stays powered. Is there a way to keep the settings? I also lose the accumulated D-E-L-U-X-E lights on the backglass, so the progressive bonus has to restart from nothing at power up.

2. After the machine has been powered down, and loses all the settings that I made in self-test mode, sometimes the "saved" high score resets to 50,000 and sometimes to 50,800.

3. When resetting the score bonus settings, there is a residual 4,820 points that I cannot reset to zero. So a replay can be awarded at 604,820 and 1,104,820 and 2,004,820 but I cannot figure out how to set it at exactly 600,000 and 1,100,000 and 2,000,000.

4. I noticed that near each of the bottom flippers, there are some wires protruding through the playfield, but still below the mylar - directly in the path of the ball. What are these wires for?

5. And last, the bottom left flipper is chattering and I can see that a screw has penetrated the outer part of the flipper coil below and there is visible arcing. If I replace/rebuild one flipper, should I do all three?

OK, so I have some time this weekend to investigate the battery replacement, and I like the idea of using a capacitor instead of a battery. On the EBDLE, is there just the one battery location? I have the owner's manual, but I cannot find any specs on the battery. What are the battery specs, and what are the specs on a capacitor substitute? I think I read in Pinside somewhere that somebody used a 5.5V and 1 Farad capacitor (or is it a 1 microFarad capacitor).

And now I have one more problem. The reset button does not do anything at all. Is this also a battery problem?

Thank you, I will look for that 5.5V, 1+ Farad capacitor. So, the larger Farad rating would mean a greater storage capacity allowing me to not play my game longer and still keep the settings? How long should a 1 Farad, or a 1.5 Farad hold a charge?

And that is the battery location I determined from reading the owner's manual.

I mis-typed about the reset button. I meant to say the "self-test" button (on the inside of the coin door, next to the volume control) no longer functions. In the past, I was able to use this button to adjust the settings, but now when I press it, nothing happens.

SuperChicken: I unplugged the two pin modules and verified zero resistance across the two pin modules with the test switch pressed, and also zero resistance at the switch across the two wires. Now that I have re-installed the pin modules, the self-test is working. Perhaps it was just a bit dusty, or one of the pins needed some patina removed. But thanks for the tips - was able to reset the bonus point levels at desired settings. (Freeplay40 - thanks for the tip on the reset button. I was able to zero out all the residual points on the bonus settings.)

Now, all of a sudden - mid-game - the left flippers stopped working. No response at all from pressing the flipper button. Playing four games, first ball was fine; second ball - no left flippers. Right flipper works just fine.

I have already have checked A3-J2-2 (Left Flipper) and against A2-J2-2, and compared it to A3-J2-1 (Right Flipper) and A2-J2-2. Both flipper switches read zero resistance when activated, so no continuity problems detected. All connector pins look ok. Any ideas? Took a peak underneath when powered up - no obvious arcing or smoked connections.

Is it just a coincidence that both the self-test button and the left flipper are connected to module A3-J2?

I removed the A3 board, and the back does not look distressed to me. Below are three close-up photos of A3-J2 focusing on pins 1 & 2. The third photo is inverted and magnified to give a different perspective on the solder joints (1 is on the bottom; 2 is second from bottom). The contacts look intact, but perhaps a bit of extra flux. Does it appear that I need to re-do these solder points?

I understand that A3-J2-1 is for the right flipper (which is working) and A3-J2-2 is for the left flippers (which are not working). I really don't see a difference between these two solder joints.

EBDLE A3-J2 (first).jpgEBDLE A3-J2 (second).jpgEBDLE A3-J2 (third).jpg

Well, with the help of my brother, we were able to trace all the circuitry on both right and left flippers all the way through the circuit boards and the relays back to the solenoids. And there we found a single loose wire on the lower left flipper coil; unconnected wire was obscured by a loosened piece of shrink tubing. Once it was reconnected . . . all was good. No need to tinker with any of the solder joints on the circuit board. But thanks to all for the suggestions; they certainly helped me to eliminate a lot of potential problems.