(Topic ID: 292834)

Eight ball deluxe display issue


By Redding892

10 days ago

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  • 16 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by BigAl56
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    #1 10 days ago

    Hey everyone. Have an EBD and it is duplicating display 5 on display 2. It starts fine and have run through all the reset functions. It will add credit and the uppers work but doesn't eject the ball either. Any ideas?

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    #2 10 days ago

    Check your display connectors, especially the end wires. They work loose from the plug. Push them down with a thin tool. You can wiggle the wires to see if the display changes to prove if it loose wires.
    As far as no ball eject, do you have an alltek board installed?
    Many functions flow through the light board so any loose plugs there will cause problems. I would go into light test mode and wiggle light board plugs to see if lights flicker. If so you need to repin that plug. Notice picture of the bad pin.
    Obviously check all fuses for starters.

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    #3 10 days ago
    Quoted from Redding892:

    Have an EBD and it is duplicating display 5 on display 2.

    Bad connection on the player 2 display select signal wire. It's the yellow-red wire from MPU connector J1 pin 21, to pin 15 at the player 2 display.

    #4 10 days ago

    Did you do anything to the game prior? It's behaving like the Player 2 display select is shorted or misswired
    As a last resort, since you are having a multitude of problems try swapping U10 and 11 on the MPU and see if the problem moves.

    #5 6 days ago

    pindel i do have an altek board. Not sure where the wires you referenced should be. Lookong over averyghing i have access to i dont see anything burmt out or bad.

    Quench i checked everything in the display port and J1. Nothing loose or missing. Pins look good. I rrseated all the connections.

    BigAl56. I dont see anything that is loose or shorted on diaplay 2. Alao cant find u10 and u11 on the mpu.

    I did notice that on the mpu th led flashes bright 7 times then stays on kind of dim. Should it be bright like when it flaahes?

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    #6 6 days ago

    Oh. And thanks for the responses!!!

    Also i popped the ball out manually and was able to play the entire time. Once it fell it wouldnt return it. Not sure if that is related or second problem.

    Someone did ask if anything changed. My daughter said someone was banging on it for a stuck ball on one of the pop ups and tilted it. Not sure how hard they were banging on it from the side.

    Thanks again.

    #7 6 days ago

    Wiggle the end wires to see if the display changes at all. If so, push the wire into the plug housing more. You can do this in test mode when the displays are cycling through all the digits.

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    #8 6 days ago

    @pindell. Tried that during the self test and when it was running. No changes in the display.

    #9 6 days ago
    Quoted from Redding892:

    Quench i checked everything in the display port and J1. Nothing loose or missing. Pins look good. I rrseated all the connections.

    You need to do a continuity test.
    Grab your multi-meter and set it to resistance ohms Ω mode. If your meter isn't auto-ranging, set it to 200k ohms range.
    With the game OFF, put one meter probe on the Alltek MPU board at pin 7 of the U12 chip, put the other meter probe on the player 2 display board at pin 1 of the 16 pin chip. The meter reading should be about 21k ohms.
    You can confirm it against the reading for the respective control signal going to display 1. MPU U12 pin 5 to player 1 display board chip pin 1. Again should be around 21k ohms.

    Note the signal controlling the player 2 display is also used as part of the games switch matrix. Another common cause of this issue is if that signal on the switch matrix is shorted to ground and this usually happens when someone has hacked the wires on the coin/slam switches on the coin door specifically the red-green wire. The easy way to see if this is the cause is to disconnect the J3 connector from the MPU board which is the coin door switch harness. If the display problem goes away, inspect the red-green wire on the coin door for a short to the metal frame which is grounded.

    When the game code periodically refreshes the displays, it first updates the player 1 display and ends with updating the credit/ball in play display.
    Your symptom is indicating that the signal controlling that player 2 display isn't being seen properly resulting in the player 2 display accepting any data being sent to any display and because the credit/ball in play display is the last written, that's why you're seeing that info mirrored on the player 2 display.
    I hope this makes sense.

    Quoted from Redding892:

    I did notice that on the mpu th led flashes bright 7 times then stays on kind of dim. Should it be bright like when it flaahes?

    The MPU LED should go dim after the 7 flashes which is an indication of normal operation that the CPU is running.

    #10 6 days ago

    Try unplugging the coin door to see if the displays become normal again.

    #11 6 days ago

    I've had this happen a few times. It's a short to ground in the coin door. Check the coin door. There is a piece of fish paper on the back of the game start switch that probably is loose or misaligned.

    #12 5 days ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    You need to do a continuity test.
    Another common cause of this issue is if that signal on the switch matrix is shorted to ground and this usually happens when someone has hacked the wires on the coin/slam switches on the coin door specifically the red-green wire.

    I had this problem with EBD coin door. Couldn’t find the problem even with an identical working one to compare wires. I just cut the wire to the slam switch. It seems it shares green wire with credit switches. Who needs a slam switch at home anyway?

    #13 5 days ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    had this problem with EBD coin door. Couldn’t find the problem even with an identical working one to compare wires. I just cut the wire to the slam switch.

    Maybe you were missing the mylar insulator between the slam switch and metal coin door. See the half moon mylar insulator piece stuck on the door from factory below: When the mylar is missing/removed, the red-green wire attached to the weighted leaf shorts against the door which is grounded.
    It could also be the O.P's problem here too.

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    #14 5 days ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Maybe you were missing the mylar insulator between the slam switch and metal coin door. See the half moon mylar insulator piece stuck on the door from factory below: When the mylar is missing/removed, the red-green wire attached to the weighted leaf shorts against the door which is grounded.
    It could also be the O.P's problem here too.
    [quoted image]

    I appreciate the diagnosis feedback, you obviously know this all in detail. Wasn’t that because i had the switch pulled away from the door. Who Knows? Game sold and gone now.
    Quick question on the instructions for measuring from u12 pin5. How are they numbered? Where is pin one orientation?

    #15 5 days ago
    Quoted from pindel:

    Quick question on the instructions for measuring from u12 pin5. How are they numbered? Where is pin one orientation?

    Chips with pins on either side are known as Dual InLine Package (DIP).
    Pin 1 may have a dot/divot next to it and/or there will be a notch on the thin package end next to pin 1. Pins are numbered anti-clockwise.
    See these examples:
    Pin_Numbering1.jpg
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    Pin_Numbering4.jpg

    #16 4 days ago

    Since you have an Alltech forget what I said about swapping U10 and 11.
    I see the strain relief cover is off of J3. In addition to much of the advise above, you should make sure the wires of J3 are all properly inserted and not breaking or working loose.

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