(Topic ID: 228314)

Eight Ball Champ Questions

By chrismcb

5 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by chrismcb
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

I'm rebuilding an Eight Ball Champ and I've got a couple of questions about some stuff that was originally missing.

Behind the upper right flipper the schematics show the rubber goes around three posts. I see a hole, but I don't know what sort of post is supposed to be there. Is it one of the short red posts?

Also how is the double switch on the right lower flipper wired up? I've got 3 wires coming off the solenoid. I'm assuming that one of the wires goes to two different posts on the switches, just not sure which one.

Thanks!

#2 5 years ago

Actually looking at the "hole" behind the flipper, it doesn't look like it ever had a screw. The manual indicates there are three posts there, but it almost looks like there is only two posts in the IPDB pic. So if there is only two posts, what size rubber is used there?

#3 5 years ago

Shot a couple of pics that might help. We just got EBC a couple of weeks ago and have really been enjoying it.

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#4 5 years ago

AWESOME pics. Thank you.
Any chance of getting a pic behind the flipper? That is just a little further to the right of the first (or last picture)
It is the rubber at the end of the bottom end of the flipper that I'm confused about.
The closeup of the underside should help me!

Thanks

#5 5 years ago

Bally games marked where you could shift the posts slightly on the outlane to make the game easier or harder. What you are seeing is a pre punched marker if you wanted to move the posts in essence making the drain opening larger or smaller.

#6 5 years ago

Also the EOS looks wired correctly. A flipper coil is 2 coils in series, A low resistance powerful flip coil and a high resistance holding coil. The 2 orange wires are connected to a normally closed EOS that shorts out the higher resistance flipper holding coil. When the flipper flips the switch opens and the 43v has a higher resistance path so if you hold the flipper up the coil and fuse do not burn up.

#7 5 years ago

Let me know if these do the trick or if you need anything else.

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#8 5 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Bally games marked where you could shift the posts slightly on the outlane to make the game easier or harder. What you are seeing is a pre punched marker if you wanted to move the posts in essence making the drain opening larger or smaller.

Thanks, but no... as I mentioned in my original email "...schematics show the rubber goes around three posts." I'm talking about the rubber behind the upper flipper, not the posts near the outlane.
I've attached a pic from the manual. I'm talking about the dotted line above the arrow, to the right of the flipper. This indicates there are three posts. And the rubber I have remaining fits three posts, and not two.
But you can see in the second pic that joelreeves recently posted, there are two posts and behind the flipper you can see where the third post should be.
In the other image I attached you can see the rubber and the post. But it looks like things changed at some point, and they stopped using that third post.

So now my question is, what size is the rubber that goes around two posts? The one I have now is 1" so do I need a 1/2 inch?

For the flipper coil, my issue is the right flipper has two switches. One open and one closed. My solenoid has 3 wires coming out of it, with 4 posts to attach. The question is, how do I wire it up? I can't find it on the schematics, and joelreeves posted some great photos, the first one of the flippers is the flipper I'm talking about. EXCEPT there are a bunch of wires in the way. So I can't really see how it is wired up.

Joel thank you so much for the photos. Is it possible to get another photo of the bottom right flipper? I need to see how the switches are wired up. The photo you posted has a bunch of other wires in the way.

My problem is... I've got two games. One is missing in the right flipper completely, while the one I'm working on, someone scrounged the switch

Thanks!

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#9 5 years ago

I'm sticking with my explanation. It looks like they had an option to alter the rubber configuration to make the game harder with a tighter rubber. This is common on games around the side outlanes.

Whats the serial number of your game? If its under 1300 yours may have been a pilot and they changed the config for standard production.

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#10 5 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

I'm sticking with my explanation. It looks like they had an option to alter the rubber configuration to make the game harder with a tighter rubber. This is common on games around the side outlanes.
Whats the serial number of your game? If its under 1300 yours may have been a pilot and they changed the config for standard production.

That doesn't exactly make sense. For one thing I'm guessing it would be listed in the manual if that was the case. It isn't like you just shift a post over a quarter an inch, it requires a new post over an inch away. The post they refer to is the one beneath the two arrows in the pics that I posted.

But regardless of the reason, I now need to know what size rubber is being used (as the one specified by the manual is too large)

As far as production goes, they only produced 1500

#11 5 years ago

Here's some shots of the right flipper.

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#12 5 years ago
Quoted from chrismcb:

As far as production goes, they only produced 1500

They/we started serial numbers at 1000. The first 300 genes were the pilot run and were shipped out to Aladin's Castle arcades and other select operators for testing. So if your game is #1300 or lower it would be a pilot run that often has subtle differences from the full production, in your case 1301-2500.

As for shifting the post(s), this was common practice and usually called out in the manual. In the case of your game the manual clearly states the intention is there to move the posts.
Since I left Bally before this game was produced, I can only guess the run was so low they decided not to go back and revise the manual. They probably laid off most of the print room staff by then. Most operators would have a stock of various rubber sizes for making the adjustments. If you want to make this change I recommend just that. Try some random rubber sizes and post back here what you think works best. Personally, since it tears up the playfield to use the marked hole I would leave the game as is.

#13 5 years ago

Flipper wiring is shown on the playfield schematic. The first NC flipper switch is the EOS switch for the flipper. The second NO switch activates the upper flipper. The switches should be adjusted break/make so you arn't trying to power both the upper and lower at the same time.

Here is a snip from the schematic that shows how the flipper is wired. The 98 wire from CJ6-8 is the NO switch to the upper flipper.

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2 weeks later
#14 5 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Here is a snip from the schematic that shows how the flipper is wired. The 98 wire from CJ6-8 is the NO switch to the upper flipper.

Thank you for the image of the schematic... I'm just looking at the PDF of the manual, and it is a bit hard to follow without the pages lining up.
That definitely helps me understand how to get this switch wired up correctly!

The serial numbers don't seem to line up with what you are saying. The #s of my games are 291 and 366, and most of the #s in the ipsnd are less than 1000.
As far as the post, the post you are talking about (to make the game easier/harder) is a different post.
I don't plan on adding the post, but I would like to try and get the right rubber. I put on a 3/4" ID ring, but it looks slightly too large (it isn't quite as tight as other rubbers. I am guessing though that 1/2" will be too small. I might try to order a 1/2" next time I put an order in, but for now I'll leave the 3/4 on.
Thanks for the help. Waiting for some new screws to attach the switch before I wire it up.

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