Quoted from Raegor:For those of you with Rush 2049, any idea how heavy they are?
And are there ways to lighten them?
My game room is upstairs.
Not that I can remember as it's been years but you may have to take the shroud off to get it through a doorway.
John
Stand up or sit down?
Either way, take the monitor out to lighten it up. For sit-down, the cabinet splits in two, to make it easier. 
Quoted from Raegor:Sit down. Wonder if my floor upstairs could handle it. The flyer says 500+120 lbs then add someone sitting on it...
I have two Cruis'n Exoticas in an upstairs gameroom along with a *bunch* of pins and other games and it's fine.
As for getting them upstairs, the most recent one went up in 4 pieces - monitor (glass CRT = HEAVY!), control panel which included the steering wheel feedback motor (also heavy), the main cabinet and the seat section.
Enormous wastes of space. You can get better steering feedback and simulations on the Xbox Live or PS3.
losangeles.craigslist.org link
Here you go.
Quoted from RobertWinter:I have two Cruis'n Exoticas in an upstairs gameroom along with a *bunch* of pins and other games and it's fine.
As for getting them upstairs, the most recent one went up in 4 pieces - monitor (glass CRT = HEAVY!), control panel which included the steering wheel feedback motor (also heavy), the main cabinet and the seat section.
Do you know what type of floor joists you have? Mine's a bonus room above the garage, dunno if they build up that floor like a normal 2nd floor.
I have two pins up there but pins are only 250 each.
Quoted from Raegor:Do you know what type of floor joists you have? Mine's a bonus room above the garage, dunno if they build up that floor like a normal 2nd floor.
I have two pins up there but pins are only 250 each.
I don't remember the joist specifics but ours is a bonus room above a 3-car garage. House was built in 2002. I remember checking the load capacity of that room when we first moved in and I am WELL under the limit with everything up there (7 pins, 2 drivers, 2 slots, MAME cabinet, JVL and Megatouch games).
I believe most second story floors are rated for a minimum of 40 lbs/sq. ft. So a 250lb pinball which is spread over 12.5 sq.ft. (5' x 2.5')would only load about 20 lbs/sq.ft. Also, having the games near the walls and not in the center of the room also increases the load bearing capacity. Even though a floor is rated at 40 lbs/sq.ft., a 200 lb man is not going to fall through the floor even though he's standing in an area of less than 1 sq.ft. It spreads the load across the entire square footage.
So take the length and width of your room, multiply those together and then by 40. That should give you a general idea of the capacity for the room. So a 10x20 room would give you about 8,000 lb capacity (10x20x40)! If a pinball is roughly 250 lbs, that would be 32 pins!
Quoted from SpecialK-33:Would like to add a pair of sit down driving games to my collection. I have mostly pins but my teenage daughters would enjoy something different. I want them to have the forced feedback feature to add to the experience. What suggestions do you have? I'd like to find a pair for around, under preferably, $2K. Any titles come to mind? I'd prefer a car theme rather than boats, snowmobiles, etc. Thanks!
Daytona USA or Ridge Racer 2 come to mind. But if you want a game with lots of replay apeal, San Francisco Rush: Rush the Rock. Several tracks, you can race them in reverse, Force Feed back wheel, adjustable seats and lots of hidden shortcuts to look for. Also has much better sound than San Francisco Rush.
Quoted from Natay-Tay:If you can get a good working pair for $1500 that would be great.
The only longevity concerns I would really have is the same for most original arcade games....the monitors going out. That being said, LCD swaps are a viable cheaper option than a repair. (I can feel the purists cringing right now, but these monitors are hard to find if they completely die.) The racing games look good with LCD in my opinion.
Been a While since I played one, but don't they have 25" CRTs? LCD is fine (The Video is VGA anyways), but does anyone make a 25" 4X3 LCD to put in them?
Quoted from girloveswaffles:Been a While since I played one, but don't they have 25" CRTs? LCD is fine (The Video is VGA anyways), but does anyone make a 25" 4X3 LCD to put in them?
No. You would have to go wide-screen, and make a new monitor bezel to fit the display.
Main reason I haven't changed over any of my games yet..
Quoted from RobertWinter:I don't remember the joist specifics but ours is a bonus room above a 3-car garage. House was built in 2002. I remember checking the load capacity of that room when we first moved in and I am WELL under the limit with everything up there (7 pins, 2 drivers, 2 slots, MAME cabinet, JVL and Megatouch games).
I believe most second story floors are rated for a minimum of 40 lbs/sq. ft. So a 250lb pinball which is spread over 12.5 sq.ft. (5' x 2.5')would only load about 20 lbs/sq.ft. Also, having the games near the walls and not in the center of the room also increases the load bearing capacity. Even though a floor is rated at 40 lbs/sq.ft., a 200 lb man is not going to fall through the floor even though he's standing in an area of less than 1 sq.ft. It spreads the load across the entire square footage.
So take the length and width of your room, multiply those together and then by 40. That should give you a general idea of the capacity for the room. So a 10x20 room would give you about 8,000 lb capacity (10x20x40)! If a pinball is roughly 250 lbs, that would be 32 pins!
Yea the pins aren't that bad but the driver could be 650lbs plus someone sitting on it is approaching 1000lbs which is like 65 lbs/sqft. But if it spreads like you said I guess it's ok?
Mine's 21x12 with no support beams in the garage. Planning on 3 pins, 1 driver, shuffleboard (650lbs), air hockey, mame machine, plus misc benches etc. Prolly total to 3k lbs. Then add people...
Quoted from CraigC:LCD screens in crt games definitely do not look as good with less rich colors and no scan lines. I would spend the money and get your tubes fixed.
Nah. use an OSSC. You'd need to get a converter anyways. Spend the extra, and use one of these, so that scanlines and pixels look original.
Granted, I'd stick with tubes as long as you can - but if you have to convert because you cannot find a tube to use, and there's no market where you are, then.. it's possible, and preferable to parting a game out.
Quoted from Redketchup:I made my owe... made a cab, put a jailbreak ps3 in it with 24 games, logitech force feedback GT with real arcade pedal. 32" tv, mini amp, sub under the seat.
Work like a charm, very immersive, soind and image are awesome!
I've looked at hydro thunders and they go for easily $800 (and they are heavy and bulky). This is the route I plan on going is keep it as dirt cheap as possible. I looked at all the systems, and decided xbox 360 has the best bang for buck: daytona usa, forza 1-3, ridge racer, ridge racer6, ridge racer unbounded, hydro thunder, hydro thunder hurricane
Here's my BOM so far:
$45 used 250gb xbox 360 with controller off cragslist (purchased)
$65 barely used microsoft steering wheel with force feedback and pedals (purchased)
$25 - 32" used sony LCD TV (picking up soon)
$5 HDMI to VGA adapter (amazon)
$5 VGA cable (amazon)
$60 in plywood/2x4's to build the cabinet (estimated)
$40 used leather vehicle passenger seat off craigslist (comfort, and has the built in leg adjustment)
------------------------------------
$245
cheaper than any working arcade driver you can buy, the games are cheap (and better graphics than most of the arcade stuff), the screen is far larger, there aren't boards to go bad. Also Xbox 360's can link directly via cable eliminating the need to go through internet and paying for xbox live if you decide you want multiple racers.
Lots of tutorials of racing cabinet builds on youtube:
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Battle Creek, MI