Next measure resistance on all of the coil lugs and make sure the coils are not open or shorted.

It's sounding like you have a broken primary winding. With Cody's last test you have verified everything except the coil itself. With everything reconnected normally, hold the flipper button in and push the flipper up by hand. Does it eventually pull in and hold? If so, the coil needs to be replaced or if you're lucky and the wire broke at the lug you can unwind a turn, strip and resolder.

Have you posted a pic of your lower left flipper coil wiring, maybe in another thread?

The two coils are wired in series so their resistance is summed when power is applied to the right lug (brown wire) and ground is connected to the left lug (green wire). IIRC, the power winding measures about 3 ohms, the hold winding measures about 350 ohms.

The EOS switch shorts power across the hold winding, thus removing it from the circuit. When the flipper button is pressed, high current flows through the circuit because the power winding is low resistance and the hold winding is bypassed. As the flipper engages, the EOS switch is opened, and the short is removed. Current now flows through both windings, creating a high resistance, low current circuit.

If your splice is bad, especially if the wire is just wrapped around the other wire and not soldered, the result could be the same as an open or bad EOS switch. I would cut that splice and solder it directly to the right lug.

I think it will rear it's ugly head again

That's where I'd start, but I thought you already tried running an alligator jumper across the EOS switch.

When you measure resistance between the center lug and the green wire lug what does it read? Should be about 3 ohms.

Yes. I'm sure someone at the show will help you if you still have issues.

Good deal, congrats on your award!