Trying to finalize an EBD LE. I have a couple of issues left. 1) The tilt plumb bob and the slam tilt next to it aren't working correctly. When I test the slam tilt in the switch test, the bottom pop bumper fires. When I test the tilt plumb bob, the right pop bumper fires. 2) Sometimes when the pin starts up, the MPU doesn't boot properly. I get all the flashes, but it doesn't finish. Power cycling it a few times will get it to boot properly.

Background: The pin has an Alltek solenoid driver board and all connectors have been replaced going to it. The MPU board is original, and all pins and connectors have been replaced on it.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Tested again with the playfield down and not touching anything other than the tilt bob and the slam, and got nothing this time.

I was wrong on the booting. When it doesn't boot, the LED stays bright with no flashes.

Not following this. All the connectors on the MPU board are marked with a J.

So based on the lower schematic, since the tilt roll cage is working, ST0 and the return are working, but something is not correct with the tilt plumb bob, and ST1 or it's return could be open, or the diode is wired up backwards. The diode going to the tilt roll cage and tilt plumb bob must be installed correctly or the roll cage wouldn't register when it's circuit is completed. Does this sound correct?

I have replaced all of the little capacitors for the switches that are supposed to have them. Those don't have a polarity, correct?

Correct, sorry if I was unclear. The slam switch next to the plumb bob and the plumb bob aren't working. The slam switch on the door is working. I'll post some pictures tonight. Thanks!

I haven't had a chance to try shorting the pins on U9 yet as it hasn't done it since you posted that. Here are some pictures of the tilt mechanism wiring. If you need an additional picture of something, please let me know! Thanks.

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Awesome! I'll be doing some soldering when I get home.

Tilt plumb bob is working, but the slam switch isn't and the switch tests thinks switch 16 (slam) is closed.

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D'oh! You're absolutely right. I think I'll cut the leads down on that diode while I'm at it.

Skidave you're absolutely right too! When I was testing last night I had one hand on the right rail when testing and was getting the pop bumpers firing again. Then I remembered to not touch anything grounded.

Quench, I did have a few times the pin didn't boot correctly last night, but I had the playfield up and wanted to concentrate on wiring. I'll try jumping the pins on U9 this weekend.

Really appreciate the help guys.

Diode has been moved, it's all working as it should now.

I did have a failed boot on the MPU board, and shorting pins 39 and 40 on U9 got it to boot properly.

VR1 is reading 8.2 volts.

The pin had the Alltek solenoid board in it when I got it. I don't see signs of acid damage. All MPU board connectors and pins have been replaced.

It has a Rottendog power board in it, but I'm assuming the test points are the same. TP3 says it should be 11.5 volts, but it's reading at 17.8.

The bridge rectifier on the board melted down a few weeks ago and took a couple of traces with it before the 20 amp fuse on board blew. I replaced the rectifier and soldered some jumper wires onto the back of the board to replace the burned out traces. With TP3 reading that high maybe more got damaged on the board when the rectifier blew.

The pin has always had the boot issue since I've owned it though.

I did a search for checking the line voltage setting for the transformer but didn't find a good example.

MPU board has passed the wiggle test. Solenoid driver board connectors have all been replaced, but not the pins. I don't have any other classic Bally games.

I've attached some pics of the MPU board.

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