you wanted pics?

the capacitors on the flipper switches in the cabinet
IMG_3196 (resized).JPG

and whilst these are different flipper assemblies the principal is the same, you can see the capacitors across the EOS switches.
when installed checked with a mutimeter for continuity across the EOS switches before adding the capacitors, you must have continuity/zero ohms resistance. if the meter shows resistance they may need a clean with a microscrub, or very wet/dry sandpaper
it is known to swap the original 'linear' assemblies out for the ones in the pic..
IMG_3234 (resized).JPG

and yes 1/8 is a good sized gap

IMG_3741 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_3740 (Medium) (resized).JPGmaybe it's how it is now, but those new EOS switches aren't tungsten tipped contacts. There's not a lot of surface area there for contact and the current.

IMG_3739 (Medium) (resized).JPG

did you check/adjust the EOS switch gaps so when the flipper is fully engaged the gap is about 3.2mm / 1/4 inch ?

whilst it still may work the ball trough switch has been modified, it should look like the following

IMG_3757 (Medium) (resized).JPG

it could just be the pic, but is that ball trough diode, the orange piece with a black band, touching the playfield locating bracket?

it could also be the pic, but the second one looks like the flipper shaft is through a long way not allowing up/down play that is needed for free movement of the flipper.

i personally wouldn't be using a file on any new EOS switches, especially not the 'wrong' ones you have been supplied with.

EOS switches are tungsten tipped for a reason, as are flipper switches, you have been supplied standard switches.

if you are going to 'clean' the EOS switches, try sliding through a piece of cardboard several times, or cover a knife in a rag and alcohol on it to clean them.

sorry to be the bearer of bad news regarding the EOS switches.

they way i have had to do it is buy the switches separately and make my own stack when an extra flipper contact is involved.

but your new ones will still work, you have the 'spark suppressing' caps to help.
it is a very small surface area in comparison for current involved.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7811 'the description states they have tungsten tipped contacts' but they don't have the 'lifter', you may find yours are fine and can add them.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A10-45

regarding the filing of the EOS switches, i was purely referring to new switches, yes as they age/wear pitting and build up occurs creating an uneven contact and can add resistance so by all means they would be filed to freshen them up.

pretty sure PBR sell sell the tungsten tipped contacts separately and you can build your own to suit.

but if all that sounds too much to take on board, fair enough, just enjoy playing pinball.

your trough switch has 2 solder tabs and the wire attached to the loose diode leg, as opposed to 3 solder tabs where the diode sits across 2 holding it firmly in place.