(Topic ID: 299357)

EBD flipper rebuild

By Forehead_Slap

2 years ago


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    #2 2 years ago
    Quoted from Forehead_Slap:

    The schematic shows caps across all the switches, and I don't have any. Does anyone have a picture showing how they were installed or just simply put them across the lugs of the switches?

    EOS_Capacitors.pngEOS_Capacitors.png

    I'm guessing Germany had them installed to reduce EMI/radio interference from the arcing that happens across the EOS switch. US machines didn't have those caps.
    Actually adding a capacitor is a good idea since it reduces arcing/burning/pitting on the EOS switch which extends its life. If you're installing them, make sure they aren't floating because vibration will make them break off. They need to be tied down.

    Some of the info here might help:
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-mount-eos-cap
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reducing-arcing-on-early-ss-pin-flipper-eos-and-cabinet-switches

    Quoted from Forehead_Slap:

    Finally, I've read here that the EOS should have a gap of 1/8 in. Is that it? (most intimidated about this)

    You set the EOS switch gap with you pushing the metal rod plunger into the coil exactly as it would normally operate. Don't do it by rotating the flipper bat all the way up because that doesn't take into account any wear/slack in the mech parts.

    IMG_0004a.jpgIMG_0004a.jpg

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from Forehead_Slap:

    The way I read that was that the US caps are .05 MFD (from note 4)

    Nope. The 0.05uF capacitors in note 4 refer to the capacitors on some of the general computer controlled playfield switches on the left half of the playfield schematic.
    US games did not have capacitors installed on the EOS switches. Only German games had EOS switch capacitors fitted.
    If you're retrofitting capacitors, they need to be high voltage. The goto is 2.2uF, 250V or higher voltage rating. They must be non-polarised capacitors.

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