EOS_Capacitors.png

I'm guessing Germany had them installed to reduce EMI/radio interference from the arcing that happens across the EOS switch. US machines didn't have those caps.
Actually adding a capacitor is a good idea since it reduces arcing/burning/pitting on the EOS switch which extends its life. If you're installing them, make sure they aren't floating because vibration will make them break off. They need to be tied down.

Some of the info here might help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-mount-eos-cap
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reducing-arcing-on-early-ss-pin-flipper-eos-and-cabinet-switches

You set the EOS switch gap with you pushing the metal rod plunger into the coil exactly as it would normally operate. Don't do it by rotating the flipper bat all the way up because that doesn't take into account any wear/slack in the mech parts.

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Nope. The 0.05uF capacitors in note 4 refer to the capacitors on some of the general computer controlled playfield switches on the left half of the playfield schematic.
US games did not have capacitors installed on the EOS switches. Only German games had EOS switch capacitors fitted.
If you're retrofitting capacitors, they need to be high voltage. The goto is 2.2uF, 250V or higher voltage rating. They must be non-polarised capacitors.

you wanted pics?

the capacitors on the flipper switches in the cabinet
IMG_3196 (resized).JPG

and whilst these are different flipper assemblies the principal is the same, you can see the capacitors across the EOS switches.
when installed checked with a mutimeter for continuity across the EOS switches before adding the capacitors, you must have continuity/zero ohms resistance. if the meter shows resistance they may need a clean with a microscrub, or very wet/dry sandpaper
it is known to swap the original 'linear' assemblies out for the ones in the pic..
IMG_3234 (resized).JPG

and yes 1/8 is a good sized gap

I install 2.2 uf @ 250 volt yellow polyester axial capacitors across the EOS switches and .1 uf @ 500 volt ceramic disc capacitors across the flipper button cabinet switches.

Ken what is the benefit of adding these caps?

Save switches life or something else?

Adding the caps is not a big deal since they weren't factory on US games and in home use they are even less needed. Better to just make sure your switches are clean and filed, or replace them if pitted or worn thin.

The capacitors reduce sparking considerably. Thus the switch contacts run cooler, last longer, and won't pit. I add them to all classic Bally solid state flippers now. In fact, I just put some on a Mata Hari. The machines I put them on are in commercial use on location.

Make sure that slow-returning flipper has the shaft mounted where it has a slight amount of up and down play in it, between the flipper and its nylon bushing, you don't want that tight.

IMG_3741 (Medium) (resized).JPGIMG_3740 (Medium) (resized).JPGmaybe it's how it is now, but those new EOS switches aren't tungsten tipped contacts. There's not a lot of surface area there for contact and the current.

IMG_3739 (Medium) (resized).JPG

did you check/adjust the EOS switch gaps so when the flipper is fully engaged the gap is about 3.2mm / 1/4 inch ?

whilst it still may work the ball trough switch has been modified, it should look like the following

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it could just be the pic, but is that ball trough diode, the orange piece with a black band, touching the playfield locating bracket?

it could also be the pic, but the second one looks like the flipper shaft is through a long way not allowing up/down play that is needed for free movement of the flipper.

There should always be about a sixteenth of an inch up and down play in the flipper shaft so it doesn't bind on the nylon bushing going through the playfield.

If there is enough clearance, then there is a particular problem with the coil stop bracket causing a binding condition. What I do is make a paper "shim" out of a matchbook cover or a business card. Trim it to the size of the bottom of the coil stop bracket. Then punch two holes in it (for the coil stop screws) that line up with the screw holes in the coil stop bracket. Now insert the paper shim between the flipper baseplate and the coil stop bracket and tighten the screws. That paper shim should raise the coil stop bracket just high enough away from the baseplate to eliminate the binding of the coil plunger. This is an old technician's trick.

If you haven't already, make sure to give a light filing to each of the new EOS switches (and cabinet switches if applicable). They usually have a bit of a film or coating that can make them a bit less conductive. Also make sure the EOS switch contacts have a little bit of tension when closed.

i personally wouldn't be using a file on any new EOS switches, especially not the 'wrong' ones you have been supplied with.

EOS switches are tungsten tipped for a reason, as are flipper switches, you have been supplied standard switches.

if you are going to 'clean' the EOS switches, try sliding through a piece of cardboard several times, or cover a knife in a rag and alcohol on it to clean them.

If cleaning the switches with paper or whatever doesn't do the job, the high-power type switches were designed to be filed to clean off arcing burns and pitting for maintenance, a few light swishes with a fine file when they are new won't hurt them and would sort of 'break them in'.

I agree looking at the contacts though about them perhaps being wrong though. Green circled contact (fires upper flipper) looks right, red circled (EOS) looks kind of whimpy. Maybe EOS's don't necessarily have to be as hefty because they only break the circuit and don't make it, and they are only breaking the main winding and not the hold winding(?) That's the only sense I can make about those contact choices.

b34ddb6c845029854ab7e8c57f30adb71ceb7de6 (resized).jpg

sorry to be the bearer of bad news regarding the EOS switches.

they way i have had to do it is buy the switches separately and make my own stack when an extra flipper contact is involved.

but your new ones will still work, you have the 'spark suppressing' caps to help.
it is a very small surface area in comparison for current involved.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7811 'the description states they have tungsten tipped contacts' but they don't have the 'lifter', you may find yours are fine and can add them.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A10-45

regarding the filing of the EOS switches, i was purely referring to new switches, yes as they age/wear pitting and build up occurs creating an uneven contact and can add resistance so by all means they would be filed to freshen them up.

pretty sure PBR sell sell the tungsten tipped contacts separately and you can build your own to suit.

but if all that sounds too much to take on board, fair enough, just enjoy playing pinball.

your trough switch has 2 solder tabs and the wire attached to the loose diode leg, as opposed to 3 solder tabs where the diode sits across 2 holding it firmly in place.