(Topic ID: 306322)

EBD bumpers and mushrooms don't work

By Kovac

2 years ago


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  • 20 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Kovac
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#1 2 years ago

Today's suddenly after turning it on bottom left and right bumpers and mushrooms on top don't fire back when ball hits them.
I ran solenoid test and everything works and they fire.
I don't really know where to even start... It seems like every couple of days something comes up.

#2 2 years ago

Start with the switch test.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Switch_problems

Page 17 of your manual shows switch numbers.

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Start with the switch test.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Switch_problems
Page 17 of your manual shows switch numbers.

I'm a little bit confused. How switches relate to those five solenoids not firing when ball hits them.
It can't be that suddenly all five leaf switches stopped working...

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Kovac:

How switches relate to those five solenoids not firing when ball hits them.

You have to start somewhere. Switches not working or solenoids not working.

Start ruling things out. Starting with switches is a good idea. YeOldPinPlayer is helping.

LTG : )

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from Kovac:

I'm a little bit confused. How switches relate to those five solenoids not firing when ball hits them.
It can't be that suddenly all five leaf switches stopped working...

The switches are scanned by the mpu board. The software decides when to fire the solenoids. It's very possible that the entire column is out at the same time via a bad connection via a connector, board pins, or broken chained wire. BTW they are pop, jet, or thumper bumpers. Mushroom bumpers refer to a specific different type of bumper that's a lot smaller, as seem on the playfield of Fireball if you want to look at a pic of one on IPDB.

Go into solenoid test, make sure the pops and slings are firing there. Then go to the switch test with all the drops up and the ball out and press each of the switches. I doubt that any will activate, so time to start tracing where the wires are going.

You might want to consolidate your various issues into one post BTW sort of a one-stop-shop.

#6 2 years ago

Are the flippers working? If no solenoids on the playfield are working it could be the under playfield fuse.

#7 2 years ago

If they fire in solenoid test, that would indicate the coils are working properly, but the switches are not. Check the wiring of the switches under the playfield, they are usually daisy-chained together, so if one wire goes loose, multiple pop bumpers will stop working. If wiring is okay, check the diodes of the switches. You say the pops aren't working, but you said that 5 switches aren't working? Is everything in ST4 (column 5) of the switch matrix out?
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#8 2 years ago

Yesterday everything was fine. All solenoids fire in solenoid test no problem.
But three mushrooms on top of the playfield and two left and right bumpers on the bottom don't fire back when ball hits them.
My daughter was playing it last night and she said they just suddenly stopped working...

#9 2 years ago
Quoted from Kovac:

Yesterday everything was fine. All solenoids fire in solenoid test no problem.
But three mushrooms on top of the playfield and two left and right bumpers on the bottom don't fire back when ball hits them.
My daughter was playing it last night and she said they just suddenly stopped working...

Those 2 "bumpers" on the bottom your referring to I think are the slingshots. Do what we've suggested

#10 2 years ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

Those 2 "bumpers" on the bottom your referring to I think are the slingshots. Do what we've suggested

Yes slingshots.. sorry

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from Kovac:

Yes slingshots.. sorry

All good, helps to get your terms straight so we don't get confused, but we all start somewhere. I would bet if you go into switch test, that the rollover target, single drop target and saucer switches aren't registering either. Definitely a problem in column 5 of the switch matrix

#12 2 years ago

So they all have in common ST4 ... What voltage I should measure on the string if it's working properly?

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#13 2 years ago
Quoted from Kovac:

So they all have in common ST4 ... What voltage I should measure on the string if it's working properly?
[quoted image]

Just start by visually inspecting for broken wires, then you can check continuity between all the switches that are daisy-chained in that column. They should all have a yellow wire with red tracers connecting them together on the part of the switch that has the leg of the non-banded side of the diode.

#14 2 years ago

as suggested in post #11, manually test the saucer, single drop target and rollover button.....are they registering/working?

if the above doesn't work out then you could try:

try removing and reconnecting J2 on the mpu board.

you could also try swapping MPU J2 pin 5 (strobe 4) for J2 pin 4 (strobe 3), so pin 4 into pin 5 position

you could also try swapping U10 and U11 on the mpu board and seeing if problem moves elsewhere?

#15 2 years ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

Just start by visually inspecting for broken wires, then you can check continuity between all the switches that are daisy-chained in that column. They should all have a yellow wire with red tracers connecting them together on the part of the switch that has the leg of the non-banded side of the diode.

BINGO one broken wire, and all five are out...

Thank you all so much

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#16 2 years ago
Quoted from Kovac:

BINGO one broken wire, and all five are out...
Thank you all so much
[quoted image]

That'll do it! That especially tends to happen around the pops because they get a lot of action, and when the coils fire it slightly shakes the playfield. The individual strands of wire break, creating a slowly weakening connection, until one day it comes loose. Just keep in mind these games are ~40 years old, so shit breaking down is gonna happen, as frustrating as it can be.

#17 2 years ago

great news, nice easy fix

personally i'd remove the other yellow/red wire, cut off the crap bit so to start new, strip back the insulation enough, say 1/4 inch on both, twist them together, 'tin' them (apply a little solder to the now twisted wires) cut back the now tinned joined wires and then solder them to the switch tab.

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

great news, nice easy fix
personally i'd remove the other yellow/red wire, cut off the crap bit so to start new, strip back the insulation enough, say 1/4 inch on both, twist them together, 'tin' them (apply a little solder to the now twisted wires) cut back the now tinned joined wires and then solder them to the switch tab.

Thank you... That's exactly what I did. Unfortunately the rest of the connections pretty much look like that.
Looks like every time they fixed something it was fixed in rush, just get it going and leave.

#19 2 years ago

They are properly called Thumper Bumpers and Slingshots. (Mushroom bumpers are completely different).
Sorry for this anal post, as a former Bally guy I must add my 2 cents.

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

They are properly called Thumper Bumpers and Slingshots. (Mushroom bumpers sire completely different).
Sorry for this anal post, as a former Bally guy I must add my 2 cents.

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