(Topic ID: 261879)

Resolved-Easy Question, I Think

By Da-Shaker

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Da-Shaker
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 4 years ago

    I just added a flipper rebuild in my 1980 Blackout. When I played it, the flippers seemed weak with not much power and jittering. I adjusted the EOS switch a few times with no improvement. I then reflowed solder to all the coil and flipper connection and still no help.
    The flippers feel fine until they transfer to low power when hitting the EOS switch. My best guess is that the new coil springs are to tight and pushing the plunger back into the EOS switch, which is making the flippers jitter and weak. I'm thinking of cutting and shortening the coil return springs to lessen the spring power. Additionally, the plungers are moving smoothly into the coils and the flippers are not to tight against the play field.
    Anybody have this happen to them? My next step is to cut down the coil springs or put the old ones back on.
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    #2 4 years ago
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    #3 4 years ago

    I'm also thinking about adding stronger coils, but not sure which ones are ok to buy

    #4 4 years ago

    Make sure the flippers aren’t binding with the playfield bushing. Should be some up down play on flippers above playfield.

    #5 4 years ago

    Yes, they feel good and not to tight.

    #6 4 years ago

    Be sure your EOS points are clean, even if new. And plenty of tension holding them closed.

    LTG : )

    #7 4 years ago

    Wow, I cleaned the new switches and there was an improvement. Question, does this blue wire on the middle coil lug supposed to go to the outside leaf switch or does it matter? I still feel the flippers should be stronger.

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    #8 4 years ago
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    #9 4 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Be sure your EOS points are clean, even if new. And plenty of tension holding them closed.
    LTG : )

    This is a good point. New points should always be scuffed up for better current flow.

    #10 4 years ago

    I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but are you sure you have your wires in the correct place? If using the "hold" side of the coil to operate flipper they will be very weak.

    #11 4 years ago

    I only removed the switch wires and didn't bother remembering which end of the switch they were attached to. I was thinking since it was a contact/no contact switch, it wouldn't matter. That's why I was asking above if it would make a difference. Thanks for everybody's help. The flippers seem to have enough power until the EOS switch opens. Then the flippers kind of flop back until the switch makes contact again.

    #12 4 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    I was thinking since it was a contact/no contact switch, it wouldn't matter.

    You’re correct. It doesn’t matter.

    #13 4 years ago

    Cool, thank you. Cleaning them seemed to help. Maybe I'll give it a little filing. I just used a dollar bill before.

    #14 4 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    I just used a dollar bill before.

    Dollar bill doesn't do crap on a tungsten point.

    LTG : )

    #15 4 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    Cool, thank you. Cleaning them seemed to help. Maybe I'll give it a little filing. I just used a dollar bill before.

    Use a flex stone or an actual file. Don’t need to be shy with these beefy EOS switches. Give em hell.

    Then when finished I like to clip my meter to the eos switch to make sure it’s making strong contact when the flipper is at rest.

    #16 4 years ago

    Yes, I have a flex stone. I'll give it a shot

    #17 4 years ago

    Tried the flex stone and maybe they improved a little bit. The flippers are actually playable now, but they jitter when I try and catch a ball. This causes the ball to hop off the flipper slightly. I haven't had an old Williams in awhile. I might be used to new Sterns. Not sure.

    #18 4 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    Tried the flex stone and maybe they improved a little bit.

    Try a small flat jewelers file.

    LTG : )

    #19 4 years ago

    Not sure if I have one, but something more abrasive, right?

    #20 4 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    Not sure if I have one,

    Get one. That way you can make the switch faces bright and shiny and flat.

    LTG : )

    #21 4 years ago

    I used a nail file and no change.
    I thinking now it's the coil stops. They weren't replaced, because you have to buy the entire flipper bracket. It's one piece. When I have time I'll remove the bracket and smooth/flatten them out. Would anybody agree?

    #22 4 years ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    Get one. That way you can make the switch faces bright and shiny and flat.
    LTG : )

    I will, thank you

    #23 4 years ago
    Quoted from Da-Shaker:

    I used a nail file and no change.
    I thinking now it's the coil stops. They weren't replaced, because you have to buy the entire flipper bracket. It's one piece. When I have time I'll remove the bracket and smooth/flatten them out. Would anybody agree?

    If I was rebuilding those flippers, everything would be new except the coil. And I would’ve upgrade them to extension springs instead of compression springs.

    #24 4 years ago

    Amazing 1980 coils stops lasted 40 years. Haha, last 40 games now.

    #25 4 years ago
    Quoted from chuckwurt:

    If I was rebuilding those flippers, everything would be new except the coil. And I would’ve upgrade them to extension springs instead of compression springs.

    Your right, I just didn't want to buy the entire bracket.

    #26 4 years ago

    Brackets on order. I'll update the forum in a week. Thanks for the expertise.

    #27 4 years ago

    Told you it was an easy question. Replaced my brackets that had preattached coil stops and they are working great now.
    Thanks for the Pinside help!

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