(Topic ID: 23753)

Easiest Backbox Removal

By chocky909

11 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by Thor-NL
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    #1 11 years ago

    So I have an upstairs flat with narrow stairs and doorways that means I can't bring in a modern pinball machine in without removing the backbox first. I've done this with Doctor Who once to bring in and again to remove and because of the large number of connections I'd rather not do it again, one of the reasons I decided to go for a WOZ.

    So what I'm wondering is what era of pin do I have to go back to to find the pins that were designed to have the backbox removed rather than folded because I'd quite like to try and get one?

    #2 11 years ago

    Gottlieb System 80 pinss have a removable backbox. Not sure that is the latest, but some good titles there. Widebody though, so that may be harder for your upstairs move.

    #3 11 years ago

    Pretty much anything prior to 1982, gottlieb system 1,3,80. Just assume, the newer it is, and the more contraptions on the playfields, the more connectors there will be. It's really not that bad.

    System 80's, RCA is correct the back box, comes off easy because there are no hinges and a few connectors designed to pull it off. Just look at the cabinets, if there are hinges.....it's harder to pull.

    To get machines into my office upstairs, I have to pull the heads, right now they are sterns, they are a snap. The hardest are Williams dmd

    #4 11 years ago

    Williams system 3 through 7 are very easy to remove the head. FP, Flash, Gorgar, BK, Blackout, Jungle Lord, etc. etc.

    #5 11 years ago

    Pretty much system 11's and up are foldable. (for williams).

    As Gnat said above, anything lower and you can remove easily.

    I've removed system 11 back boxes before. It's not too bad. Just mark connectors.

    I've also folded system 6's (even though they haven't got a hinge) and just put a piece of cardboard in between head and glass and strapped them together tight.

    You can also twist heads while keeping all connectors together so that you can fit the pin thru a doorway. You just unscrew the hinges that connect the head and cab and carefully twist the head. Need two people at least for this though. Somewhat dangerous... BUT time saving for sure.

    #6 11 years ago

    Funny enough, it wouldn't take all that much to remove the head of a brand new Stern. There ain't a whole lot going on back there..

    #7 11 years ago

    At most its 10-20 connectors, all which pretty well maintain their "position" even unplugged.

    Spending the extra hour removing and reattaching the head on the newer games doesn't seem like a steep price to pay. Once you get it up the stairs, the only next time you need to do that is when you move or sell it.

    #8 11 years ago

    Thanks. I didn't realise Sterns were so much easier to split than Williams DMD either. I've just been checking out the Williams System 7 and Gottlieb System 80 games too.

    #9 11 years ago
    Quoted from chocky909:

    I didn't realise Sterns were so much easier to split than Williams DMD either.

    For sure! Just to give you an example..

    http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=5307&picno=38747

    #10 11 years ago
    Quoted from Gnatty:

    Williams system 3 through 7 are very easy to remove the head. FP, Flash, Gorgar, BK, Blackout, Jungle Lord, etc. etc.

    My system 9 Sorcerer was easy as well.
    Just 2 bolts inside the backbox.

    #11 11 years ago

    Agree with all of the posts above, but also have to say that's about the strangest criteria I've ever heard for deciding what machine to purchase. To each their own. Good luck!

    #12 11 years ago

    EMs are the easiest to remove: 2 or 3 Jones plugs and four bolts. Don't have to mess with taking out the backglass or anything like that. Earlier SS aren't so bad either, but have a lot more connectors to unplug and plug back in.

    #13 11 years ago

    Don't ever get a P2K.

    Gottlieb EMs are super easy.

    #14 11 years ago

    I thought P2K was fairly easy connection wise with the main issue being the top half weighing as much as the main cabinet?

    #15 11 years ago

    Yeah the P2K head is fairly easy to remove. It is a heavy SOB though. I suppose for your purposes it wouldn't be too bad. I just hate moving those things period. They weigh a ton and don't even fit in a cargo van without taking the head off!

    #16 11 years ago

    The pin 2000 head is made to come off. And with it removed, both halves are way lighter than moving a regular pin. Plus who wants some old EM? That's not fun.

    11 months later
    #17 10 years ago

    Gonna necro this thread. i just removed my pinbot back box and while it wasn't terrible, it certainly wasn't a walk in the park. at a certain point, i ended up having to unhook several extra connectors due to one or two wires being added to that connector and then going to another, and then another. also had to cut the wires to a solenoid so i didn't have to remove the fitting that held it in place.
    i've also got an earthshaker, which is system 11 B. anyone know if these are any easier to remove? from a glance, it looks a little less convoluted, but then so did pinbot at first....

    #18 10 years ago

    I removed the head on my es to get it out of the basement. Label connectors, disconnect. Undo the ground strap. Remove head.

    Simple.

    Remember, most of these games were in arcades, and may have several non stock hacks in place. Double check for these before removing the head. You shouldn't have to unsolder or snip anything, unless someone added it in. (Possibly might have to cut the ground, but on mine it was rigged up with an eyelet.)

    #19 10 years ago

    Just don't be dumb like I was to starting out. Many connectors don't leave the backbox on many pins. I labeled and removed every wire from every board before I undid the wiring harness hold downs. Only at that point did I realize that I only had to remove about 1/3 of the connectors to take off the back box.

    Weight and size are a bigger problem compared to removing parts in my mind.

    #20 10 years ago

    Just removed the head of my new FT to get it home. CRIKEY it had lots of connectors! It will take me awhile to get everything neatly back in place.

    #21 10 years ago

    I've always used a six color selection of electric tape to color code all of the connectors, certainly lessons the difficulties.

    #22 10 years ago

    AND I forgot to label. I took alot of pics and video taped it, so I'm praying that's enough.

    #23 10 years ago

    update: ES was WAY easier to remove than pinbot, even with the ES having had some wiring work done to it by the guy it bought it from. looks like it was designed to be easier.
    i would also recommend using blue painters tape over electrical tape. electrical tape is one of the worst things ever created. just hate the gross residue it leaves after you take it off.

    #24 10 years ago

    Take a sharpie, mark all connectors (on the side) with the numbering of the board.
    Keep a photo-copy of the boards, and X out the headers that are not used.

    Everytime you need to swap a board or remove the head, you are happy you did mark them

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