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(Topic ID: 266474)

Ease access for connector rebuild


By RoyF

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 27 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 6 months ago

    I need to repin a connector for GI burn on a Data East machine. That connector is located in the lower left side of the backbox. Rather than leaning over the machine awkwardly while rebuilding the connector, I was thinking there must be a better way. If I separate the harness connectors that connect the backbox light panel, then I could remove the light panel entirely and set it aside, which would enable me to stand on the left side of the machine when doing the connector rebuild = a much more comfortable stance.

    Does anyone else do this?

    If not restoring the machine, does anyone remove the appropriate wiring harness from the machine to make it easier to work on the connectors?

    Or, perhaps you do something else?

    #2 6 months ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    Does anyone else do this?

    I have often done a lot of work to make the repair easier to do so I do a better job.

    Go for it.

    LTG : )

    #3 6 months ago

    Step stool or sit on glass. Literally takes a couple minutes to do a connector.

    #4 6 months ago

    Identify the main harness that connector is part of, then unplug all the other connectors that share that same harness.

    Push the harness and connectors all the way down into the lower cab.

    Raise the playfield, and pull the disconnected harness out. You should be able to handle the defective connector more easily.

    Whether this is less overall effort than disassembling the light panel and other connectors, depends on the particular harness, etc, so it's your call there.

    #5 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mitch:

    Step stool or sit on glass. Literally takes a couple minutes to do a connector.

    Don't forget to add at least one hour to search for that one odd contact that you dropped somewhere down into the machine.

    #6 6 months ago

    Speaking of GI connectors anybody know where or what to get to repair the GI plug on a Williams system 7? royf sorry not trying to hijack your thread!

    #7 6 months ago
    Quoted from henrydwh:

    Speaking of GI connectors anybody know where or what to get to repair the GI plug no a Williams system 7? royf sorry not trying to hijack your thread!

    Try Great Plains Electronics. https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

    #9 6 months ago

    If it's comfortable and well lit, you'll do a better job. I'd rather spend an hour prep for a ten minute job if at the end of the day the repair is successful.

    #10 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mitch:

    Step stool or sit on glass. Literally takes a couple minutes to do a connector.

    I'm envious. I just don't work as fast as you, and its worse if I'm contorted into an odd position. I'm the slow and steady type. Take pictures of existing connector, make sure wire color is clearly shown for each wire. Cut wires. Strip wires. Crimp on new pin. Make sure get good crimps on the Trifurcon pins (my crimper requires me to crimp the wire and jacket separately, so 2 crimps for each pin). Repeat for each wire. Test each crimp, just to be sure nothing is loose. Carefully insert wires into new connector in correct order. Insert keying plug. Compare connector one last time to the picture I took before starting. Consider that connector done.

    #11 6 months ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    dentify the main harness that connector is part of, then unplug all the other connectors that share that same harness.

    Push the harness and connectors all the way down into the lower cab.

    Raise the playfield, and pull the disconnected harness out. You should be able to handle the defective connector more easily.

    I like this idea. Depending on what that harness is bundled with in the cabinet, I could choose to leave it still in the machine and just the fact that it was dropped into the cabinet would give me relatively easy access to the connector by standing next to the machine with the playfield up.

    #12 6 months ago
    Quoted from bluespin:

    Speaking of GI connectors anybody know where or what to get to repair the GI plug no a Williams system 7?

    Yep, I too get my supplies at GPE, just can't go wrong dealing with Ed.

    #13 6 months ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    I'm envious. I just don't work as fast as you, and its worse if I'm contorted into an odd position. I'm the slow and steady type. Take pictures of existing connector, make sure wire color is clearly shown for each wire. Cut wires. Strip wires. Crimp on new pin. Make sure get good crimps on the Trifurcon pins (my crimper requires me to crimp the wire and jacket separately, so 2 crimps for each pin). Repeat for each wire. Test each crimp, just to be sure nothing is loose. Carefully insert wires into new connector in correct order. Insert keying plug. Compare connector one last time to the picture I took before starting. Consider that connector done.

    You really need to buy a ratcheting crimper thath doea the wire and jacket at the same time. They arnt that expensive and will save tons of time, plus they hold the new contact so you only need one hand on the crimper.

    #14 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mitch:

    You really need to buy a ratcheting crimper thath doea the wire and jacket at the same time. They arnt that expensive and will save tons of time, plus they hold the new contact so you only need one hand on the crimper.

    This is the ratcheting crimper that I purchased a while back and it works great. There are several YouTube instructional videos for using this crimper. From someone who couldn't make a proper crimp to now making perfect crimps I can tell you that it is well worth the cost.

    amazon.com link »

    Gord

    #15 6 months ago

    +1 on the Iwiss crimper. For that price it's a no brainer: I've seen too many single-use single-size tools that cost 3 times as much. It is a little awkward at first but once you get the hang of it (and learn how to strip and feed the proper lead length on the wires) you'll feel like a pro.

    First connector I re/built with one of those was an awesome feeling, it looked indistinguishable from factory instead of the typical ugly "meh but it works who cares" mess.

    Quoted from RoyF:

    I like this idea. Depending on what that harness is bundled with in the cabinet, I could choose to leave it still in the machine and just the fact that it was dropped into the cabinet would give me relatively easy access to the connector by standing next to the machine with the playfield up.

    Yep, that's the idea... glad you like it

    #16 6 months ago

    That crimper pretty much looks exactly like mine other than blue handle vs. orange. Works great.

    I usually get as much slack on the harnesses as I can so I can work on the glass of the machine if not a full removal of the harness. It's just easier.

    If it's just a couple pins, I just do it in situ.

    The double crimp ones just don't do as good a job as the ratcheting one, the crimps end up being sloppy (or take even more time per crimp because you have to do it slowly)

    #17 6 months ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    +1 on the Iwiss crimper.

    I have been using a crimper I bought from Ed at GPE years ago. Was known then as the BCT-1, looks like this: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1026-CT. Certainly makes far better crimps than what I had before that. Takes 2 crimps to do the wire and then the insulation. How does this compare to the IWISS SN-28B?

    Heh, just noticed on the Amazon listing: Free shipping, but Arrives June 5 - 26!

    #18 6 months ago
    Quoted from slochar:

    The double crimp ones just don't do as good a job as the ratcheting one, the crimps end up being sloppy (or take even more time per crimp because you have to do it slowly)

    Interesting, is that the experience of others too?

    A good crimp is the most important thing. Of course, all my crimps go slowly since I don't do them very often, which means I don't get much practice = slow!

    #19 6 months ago
    Quoted from G-P-E:

    Don't forget to add at least one hour to search for that one odd contact that you dropped somewhere down into the machine.

    Ha! I just had a mangled Trifurcon appear during a game last night from a GI connector I did a week ago.

    #20 6 months ago

    i'd just put up with the awkward position personally - doesn't take THAT long to re-pin a connector. Plus then i could bitch about my back hurting the rest of the day. Win-win!

    #21 6 months ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    +1 on the Iwiss crimper. For that price it's a no brainer

    I also see this on Amazon: amazon.com link » is it a "knock off" on the Iwiss SN-28B? Looking at the picture, unlike the Iwiss there doesn't appear to be any stamped markings on the jaws.

    Will the Iwiss SN-28B handle all the standard connector pins found in a pinball machine??? If so, I think I'll order one.

    Also, what do you like for wire strippers? I'm using a much older version of something like this: amazon.com link » Strips ok, but you have to be sure to insert the wire into the correct groove in the jaws (not self adjusting), and there is no wire length guide.

    #22 6 months ago

    amazon.com link »

    This is the one I use.
    I have literally done hundreds if not thousands of crimps with mine.

    #23 6 months ago

    On 80s games I put the head on the desk to do the connectors and board work and playfeild out.

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    #24 6 months ago

    There is just no way in hell I would not replace those with IDCs ... more power to you!

    #25 6 months ago
    Quoted from Pin_Guy:

    There is just no way in hell I would not replace those with IDCs ... more power to you!

    I enjoy doing it. I will never use IDC not as good.

    1 week later
    #26 5 months ago
    Quoted from goingincirclez:

    +1 on the Iwiss crimper. For that price it's a no brainer

    The IWISS SN-28B has arrived. I watched various videos and think I understand the proper use of the tool, including spotting the errors in the various videos. Reviewed Clay's guide on connectors too which has a nice illustration of a connector pin that shows the various parts of the pin and where the insulated part of the wire should be, where the bare part of the wire should be, and where the wire should not go!

    Question - for crimping .156" pins, which of the jaw cavities should be used? Same question for .100" pins. Is it the pin size that determines which cavity to use, or is it the wire size?

    While I think about it, what wire size is typically used in a pinball machine with .100" connectors, and what size with .156" connectors?

    #27 5 months ago
    Quoted from RoyF:

    Question - for crimping .156" pins, which of the jaw cavities should be used? Same question for .100" pins. Is it the pin size that determines which cavity to use, or is it the wire size?

    Both actually as the pin size will change depending on the wire size its designed to be used with. You will use whichever jaw is the best fit for the pin.

    Quoted from RoyF:

    While I think about it, what wire size is typically used in a pinball machine with .100" connectors, and what size with .156" connectors?

    This is not all inclusive, but .100 are mainly 22-28 and .156 are mainly 18-22

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