(Topic ID: 122829)

Earthshaker Restoration


By rmillman

4 years ago



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#1 4 years ago

I've had machines for a few years and had the opportunity to pickup an Earthshaker. This is my first strip down of a playfield (never mind restoration). My original thought was I would string down the playfield, clean it and put it back together. This must be my first machine (even thought it came from someone else's home) that was from a route.

First thing I did was to build a rotisserie and bench combo. You can see it in the pictures. Gotta love my wife, I've taken over the living room (we never live in it) and placed a couple of working machines in there along with this work in progress.

The machine was really dirty. Like most have indicated, lots of mismatched parts, some hacks, questionable solder joints (under playfield), toasty connections and corrosion on the MPU.

I've taken a ton of pictures as I started to take this thing apart, but it's funny, I started about 3 weeks ago and I can barely remember where each of the parts go. (Good thing I have the pictures).

Even though I have a good stage built, I'm feeling like I've lost parts along the way. I also question if I will remember which size screws to use, more importantly, as I was cleaning the washers today, I realized there are different thicknesses on these, really? I know I didn't mark any of that down and a picture won't help.

As you can see in some of the pictures, there is bubbling under the Mylar at most of the inserts. I've decided to remove it and started that process tonight. What a pain in the neck. I bought the air from Walmart, great price and just as cold as the more expensive stuff. Decided to tackle the big piece first. Might have been too conservative, but used an entire can of air on it. Didn't lose any paint from the playfield, but I did lose some of the images from some inserts, seems to be typical.

Under the Mylar was Mylar. Two pieces by the bumpers by the flippers (kickers?). Of course those are in perfect shape and are not coming up with the freeze method. I've broken little pieces off, but that's about it. (Suggestions, more freeze, go to the heat method?)

One thing that is kinda cool and interesting is taking pictures with the camera on the game board, so you get a completely different perspective.

I've ordered cliffy protectors for everything, as the ramps are already broken (just enough to hold the protector, I hope).

The deflector (from the kickout hole on zone 5) is damaged, I need to see if the right coil is in there. I don't think that part is available, I'm going to take it to a machine shop and see if they can reproduce it. If I keep using the one I have, I'm afraid it will damage the ball and injure the playfield.

I'll keep adding to this as I move forward.

Oh, what kind of paint do you use to paint the black side rails that are on either side of the playfield? These look terrible.

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#2 4 years ago
Quoted from rmillman:

Under the Mylar was Mylar. Two pieces by the bumpers by the flippers (kickers?).

I wonder if this is typical of Earthshakers with full playfield mylar, mine also has the two smaller slingshot pieces and then the full playfield piece applied right over them.

Good luck with your resto. If you need any photos or help identifying parts, PM me. I have scores of pix of my playfield teardown and took copious notes.

#3 4 years ago

Alright, I'm officially sick of Mylar. I want to know the clown that put down the mylar in this machine. The family is asleep, so I figured I wouldn't use the hair dryer. I used the goo gone method with a razor blade (almost perpendicular to the playfield) to get the mylar started by the slingshot and then when I had a good enough piece, I switched to the freeze method. This worked really well. I then used alcohol and flour (should have tried vodka and OJ), only to find out that when I was done and ready to pat myself on the back, I found a second slingshot mylar under that one (running total of 3 layers). Going back to remove this one, just had to rant. UGH mylar why do you hate me so?

#4 4 years ago

Great to see these pics and restoration. I have an Earthshaker. This will get me going on it! Keep the progress posted. Thanks.

#5 4 years ago

This is a great game.. Playfield looks very nice.. Just get the insert overlays if they come off with the Mylar... I just picked one up.. I'm working out the bugs now before I tear it down. Good luck

#6 4 years ago

The playfield needs a lot of work. There is planking, a number of touch-up spots and (now) inserts that need to be dealt with. The only good thing is none of the inserts are popping out, so I will glue those down as vid suggests to make sure I don't have a problem in the future.

If the inserts don't have anything wrong, what should I do with them prior to first clear? I don't want to ruin the ink, but I think I need something to give it bite.

I'm debating on bulbs or LEDs for this. It's one of those things, I already have a lot into it, do I want to add more? If I go to resell, will it make a difference. I see that there is a mix on the crowd between LED and bulbs.

#7 4 years ago

You can do some LEDs to brighten the game up.

#8 4 years ago

My favorite game as a child...my first as a collector. I have partially restored mine but will tear it all down after I finish my TX Sector. I have been waiting to see if a repo playfield would ever come into existence but after several years only rumors. It seems Bay Area Amusement is doing something with this but who knows...

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from rgb635:

My favorite game as a child...my first as a collector. I have partially restored mine but will tear it all down after I finish my TX Sector. I have been waiting to see if a repo playfield would ever come into existence but after several years only rumors. It seems Bay Area Amusement is doing something with this but who knows...

A repro is so long overdue. Why not just let CPR finish what they started????

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from mcluvin:

A repro is so long overdue. Why not just let CPR finish what they started????

I dont think the original art person is still there..not sure. I wish they would I would jump all over it. My playfield is nice so I may just restore.

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from rgb635:

I dont think the original art person is still there..not sure. I wish they would I would jump all over it. My playfield is nice so I may just restore.

I'm pretty sure CPR has a guy with the skills to to do it

1 week later
#12 4 years ago

OMG, what did I do? I've taken everything off (I just hope I can get it all back on in the right spots.) I need to clear coat next. Trying to find a place to do it since the weather is still kind of flaky and I won't do it in my garage, under kids room. Anyone in NJ have a booth?

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#13 4 years ago
Quoted from rmillman:

OMG, what did I do? I've taken everything off (I just hope I can get it all back on in the right spots.) I need to clear coat next. Trying to find a place to do it since the weather is still kind of flaky and I won't do it in my garage, under kids room. Anyone in NJ have a booth?

Just a suggestion...When disassembling the bottom playfield it is best to make sure everything is disconnected and then simple slide it over from the playfield onto a large piece of cardboard. This way you maintain the wire shape memory and mechanism placements much easier than a pile of spaghetti!
Do all your upgrades, switch-outs, wire cleaning, etc. with the wire loom in this position and when all done simply slide it back onto the playfield when its ready. I have done it this way several times and it makes it a snap. The wires are like a road map and basically go right back where they should by themselves.

Wire loom and assemblies on cardboard:
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Wire loom and assemblies moved back over onto new playfield
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#14 4 years ago

Thanks,

I didn't have something big enough and was too anxious, I will get something bigger and stretch back out into position.

#15 4 years ago

OK, on to the next phase.

I need to determine the proper order in doing these repairs and I'm concerned about the amount of work here.

Here are the pictures from the bottom up so you can see the entire playfield.
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There are specific problem areas, I know a key element is to lock everything down first, but I want to know what to do with this (if anything) before the clear coat.
DSCN3737.JPG

I also need to clean off some of the inserts before the clear, the question is, do you do all or only the one's that need to be done? Meaning, if it's not broke, don't fix it?

Also, there seems to be a lot of areas of cracked paint, I don't want to paint the entire playfield (of course the paint that was under the mylar is in decent shape.

So how far would you go with this?

Thanks,
Rich

more pictures...

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#16 4 years ago

Start by cleaning up your shooter lane, you don't want to lock down any dirt under your first coat of clear.

Any other bare wood (like rollover lane switches), should also be sanded/cleaned up.

Use Naphtha after sanding to see what the wood will look like once cleared.

2 weeks later
#17 4 years ago

Any update? Watching with anticipation... Needing to do the same to my ES

#18 4 years ago

I'm a little stuck, kind of anxious based on looking at the current paint job. I finally started to get the inserts cleaned up. I'm looking for a scanner because I know I will need to fix a number of issues on this board.
I've sanded the shooting lane, need to sand the ball lanes as vid suggested.

1 week later
#19 4 years ago

it's common for there to be sling pads on top and bottom of full playfield mylar. I see it almost weekly.

3 years later
#20 4 months ago

OK, so resurrecting the longest and slowest rebuild of all. I put the project on hold for a while and low and behold, cpr came out with a reproduction playfield. So I went that route and purchased one. It sat in the house for about 8 months and I'm finally starting to do the rebuild.
I've ordered new t-nuts from bolt depot (thanks to Vid's recommendation). I was about to order some new posts from Marco Specialties, but then saw (as someone else pointed out) they are using different specifications than what Williams did. Looks like the post fastening screw (02-4002-3) which are originally 2 3/8" are no longer available (Marco has them at 1 7/8"). I haven't found another supplier, I ordered some 2 1/2" screws to use in place.

This will probably take me a long time as I'm going slow. I stripped all the parts off 3 years ago and need to rebuild using a lot of pictures and an old memory. I've already found that the dimples on the underside of the board (as CPR says) aren't perfect, so I'd rather take my time.

The plan is to drill as I need to rather than trying to drill everything at once.
I'm also planning on (in this order)
T-Nuts
GI lighting & wiring
other under playfield hardware that was left after removing the wiring harness.

I'll then look at my pictures and try to work backwards. Most likely trying to mount as much as I can on the underside before moving to the top.

There are a few pins coming through the underside (I will post picture) that I'm not sure what they are, if I need them or how to safely transfer them.

One image shows the bottom of the playfield (that's what I'm planning on moving first). I've also highlighted the three pins that I've referred to. If they are only in the bottom of the playfield, so I need to transfer them?

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#21 4 months ago

Progress (slow, but sure). I've ordered new light sockets from pbresource 22 (A1363) and 2 (A11905) lowest price I could find. I've also ordered 18 guage tinned copper wire and waiting for that to come in to install the light sockets. I ordered that from pinrestore. I figure I don't need a lot of it and it wasn't all that easy to find. I'm only planning on doing this one machine. Trying to declutter the house so I don't want to over purchase.

I followed Vid's advice and purchased the T-Nuts from Bolt Depot. While I was at it I got some 2.5" #6 machine screws since I don't know if I will be able to find the proper posts, I may have to rig something myself out of the screws. This would be in place of the 02-4002-3 Post fastening Screw. Marco specialties has them, but they are not the same length. As I understand they are supposed to be 2 3/8", Marco's is 1 7/8"

I installed the T-Nuts. My wife isn't happy. I took over the dinning room table to start the underside work. I hammered in the T-Nuts, but felt confident. The playfield is on a blanket, fully supported by the dinning room table with padding. It didn't take a lot of force to get them in and I didn't go crazy trying to hammer them in like they were nails. I also used a smaller hammer.

I'll keep posting as I make progress. I'll be soldering and stapling (hopefully) this week if my wire comes in.

#22 4 months ago

Those are the flipper alignment pins. I never move those when I swap.

1 week later
#23 3 months ago

I’m glad I found this thread. I am also in the process of swapping out my Earthshaker playfield. I plan to do a complete swap in just over a week. I have started the tear down process and have discovered a similar problem with many star posts. I have broken a few and cannot find the exact replacement. Marco does have what looks to be a close match. I am going to order a few to see if they can be used in their place.

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#24 3 months ago

Looks like PinballResource also has some hardware. I'm probably going to do some experimenting with both. It looks like the plastic post sleeves (first image) are no longer available, looks like there is a move to the rubber ones instead. Most of mine have some form of melting.
A couple of questions.
1) How much hardware do you replace vs. clean?
2) What's best way to clean the circuit (light) boards that are underneath the playfield? Wipe down with Alcohol? (second image)
3) I've noticed that some of the GI wiring which looks to be in parallel has some of the positive/ negative connections crossed. Will this impact usage of LEDS as I believe this is DC current at this point. (See the two bulb sockets and the way they are wired along with the rest of the string). When using light bulbs it doesn't matter, but since LED's only support one way flow of electricity, not sure what will happen.

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#25 3 months ago

I love Earthshaker and from my collection I this is the one pin I miss after selling it. I guess I will own one in the future.

Don't know about your restoration skills but the ES playfield should be fairly easy to airbrush because of the solid colors that are used. A lot of work though but very doable. Good luck with restoring this great machine, I'm looking forward to any updates.

#26 3 months ago
Quoted from rmillman:

It looks like the plastic post sleeves (first image) are no longer available, looks like there is a move to the rubber ones instead. Most of mine have some form of melting.

Those aren't melted, they're crushed down from over-tightening at the factory. My (and likely every) Earthshaker had the same issue, you can see the hexagonal impression that the metal post leaves on every one. The hole for the post was too wide, giving the sleeve pretty poor structural integrity.

Original aren't available, but what I did was order a bunch of these spacers from Marco. The hole is a little smaller but still enough to accommodate a #6 post, and the thicker plastic is harder to deform when tightened. They're 2 7/16" long, so each one will yield 2 sleeves when cut in half.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=254-5035-00

And yeah, just give the light boards a good wipe-down with iso alcohol, that will remove all the dirt and coil dust.

#27 3 months ago

Also, while you have stripped down your PF, you may want to consider getting rid of the GI braid. You can just daisy chain all brand new screw in light sockets for easy bulb replacement. Otherwise, your stuck replacing any needed bulb or Led's from the topside! Just a suggestion, good luck with your ES restoration!

ES1.pdfES2.pdfES3.pdf
#28 3 months ago

Which bayonet sockets are those? I don’t seem to find them available at Marco.

#29 3 months ago

I'll have to do some digging around to find the light socket order number. If I remember correctly, I bought them from Pinball Life. i will post again with details once I find the part number!

#30 3 months ago

Those sockets are available from pbresource.com
http://www.pbresource.com/sockit/wll-a11905.jpg

1 week later
#32 3 months ago

OK, so I've installed the new GI braid (did it before the excellent suggestion of changing out for different sockets. I'm working on cleaning and rebuilding all the assemblies. A little slow going as I'm trying to do one assembly at a time, since I already have a ton of parts I cannot remember where they go. (I have a lot fo pictures and will be working from them).
Things that are working well:
I needed new media for my tumbler, based on recommendations I found elsewhere on pinside, I went to Harbour freight and purchased a lifetime supply of walnut shell (fine grit). Does a great job of cleaning and polishing. First I clean in the ultrasonic cleaner, then I tumble for a day or more. (Using flitz)
Finding replacement parts in a number of locations (Marco Specialties, pinball resource, bolt depot)

Things not working so well:
Knowing what to purchase up front. I haven't done a complete inventory and I find myself making multiple orders per week. I should just plan on one order per week and hold off to save shipping.
Lots of different sized screws. I was planning on replacing them all, but with all the different sizes and not being willing to shop for them all (Bolt depot only has so much) I find myself cleaning old ones.
I tried putting a coil in the tumbler, it came out clean, but the label printing came off. Not worth it. I'll just wipe off with rubbing alcohol from now on. Not planning on replacing all coils. Looking for suggestions and experience here.

I need to replace the rubber grommets on the ball pop-up units. Looks like a small hole, don't know if there is a trick to it. I haven't ordered them yet.

Did a complete rebuild on all the flippers and have the parts to do so with the jet bumpers as well.

I'm contemplating doing a ramp swap out. It doesn't look like the rivets are too hard to do if you have the right tools. Open to hearing stories on that.

Thanks for tuning in.

#33 3 months ago

Fin Shank Screws, I officially hate them.

Purchased new ones, didn't want to use the old ones. They came in and I went to install.
I hammered them in until I could catch with a nut, then used a nut, washers and ratchet to pull them in.

I guess I didn't countersink deep enough.
I bent one while hammering (even though the board is pre-drilled)
I over tightened and broke one
and 1 or more are spinning.

I hope this is not a sign of things to come.

#34 3 months ago

With the fin Shanks installed, I've been spending a lot of time breaking apart sub assemblies, cleaning and tumbling. Of course my Tumbler broke last week, so I had to take a little time to repair that. (Separate posting, it was a broken wire at a crimp). It's amazing what walnut shells can do. I'm into polishing all the metal. I'm trying to figure out how to get my car to fit in that thing.

For the metal parts that don't fit (aside from my car), I've been sanding with 800 grit, then polishing with Mothers. But, I think it's important to clean the metal with mean green when done polishing as mothers seems to leave a residue that will turn stuff black (that's what it does as it polishes). I'm guessing I don't want that when I assemble a nice clean machine.

I've received what I hope is one of the last of the parts orders for a while. I know I have a few more things to purchase, but now, it's not a show stopper. I made the investment in an LED kit. I know others have said to purchase and try, but since the game isn't together and now is the time to put the lights in, I decided to get the kit. I purchased from pinballbulbs. There have been a lot of positive comments on them. I'll let you know and post pictures as I start putting things together.

I took some time to look at the back box. I took the boards out 3 - 4 years ago. There was some corrosion on the MPU (prior owner, I swear). I probably should have had the board repaired then. Not sure if waiting made things worse. I've sent a message to @chrishibler to see if he'll work on it and if it's worth it.
The Interconnect board had a toasty header on the 6 volt AC input. I've redone the connector, but need to get the board taken care of as I don't have that equipment or skills.

Oh, and does anyone know where all the wires go (in the backbox)? I noticed that when I started this project I had great eyesight and used really small tags on the wires (some have pulled off), now I'm wearing glasses and using a magnifying glass on top of that. I never took pictures. I can probably figure it out from the manual, but some nice pictures would help.

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#35 3 months ago

OK, now I can start making progress. I've received my LEDs, so I can do the install while I put the playfield back together. This should start getting good. I've also sent my boards out for repair, Chris is taking the challenge.
Also getting ready for Eagle Scout Court of Honor (background of picture).

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#36 3 months ago

Great thread, i am in the same boat as you complete restore of earthshaker, i am just waiting for my cpr pf to turn up. One question, are all the t-nuts the same size on the back of pf? or is there a mixture of sizes?

I also am torn between going down the braid / wire route for gi, what i have noticed with braided sockets is the lamp sticks further out the pf so would give more light out, but the lamp holder keeps it quite sunken into the pf so not sure if as much light escapes?

Regards
Russell

#37 3 months ago
Quoted from russdx:

I also am torn between going down the braid / wire route for gi, what i have noticed with braided sockets is the lamp sticks further out the pf so would give more light out, but the lamp holder keeps it quite sunken into the pf so not sure if as much light escapes?
Regards
Russell

On my previous restores of a Genesis & Dr. who I chose to run separate ground wire in place of the braid cable and it worked out well. You're already cleaning and re-wiring things so it's easy to install the new wire. Just keep your color consistent and it makes for easy tracing and troubleshooting.

#38 3 months ago
Quoted from rgb635:

On my previous restores of a Genesis & Dr. who I chose to run separate ground wire in place of the braid cable and it worked out well. You're already cleaning and re-wiring things so it's easy to install the new wire. Just keep your color consistent and it makes for easy tracing and troubleshooting.

Yeah its just the lamp height is my only concern as the factory gi lamp holder (most) are flush with back if pf si the lamp is higher on the pf side.

Regards
Russell

#39 3 months ago

Great stuff. Bringing back memories of restoring mine. Great game Earthshaker. I love it and everyone that comes around seem to gravitate to this title too.

#40 3 months ago
Quoted from russdx:

Great thread, i am in the same boat as you complete restore of earthshaker, i am just waiting for my cpr pf to turn up. One question, are all the t-nuts the same size on the back of pf? or is there a mixture of sizes?
I also am torn between going down the braid / wire route for gi, what i have noticed with braided sockets is the lamp sticks further out the pf so would give more light out, but the lamp holder keeps it quite sunken into the pf so not sure if as much light escapes?
Regards
Russell

Russell,

There are two different sized t-nuts, 6-32 & 8-32. Don't remember exact count of each. I used Boltdepot.com. Remember shipping costs the same or more than small orders, so always order a few extra.

I am finding that it's really annoying having a lot of different part sizes (washers, etc.) Just the way it is. I'll try an post what I've ordered for my machine over the last month or so. Mostly disposables.

I did the braid route. I like the idea that nvu4prod provided, but I had already bought and installed all new sockets with the wire braid. If you are going to be using LEDs, they are typically brighter to make up for any loss that being a little lower might cause.

#41 3 months ago
Quoted from rmillman:

Russell,
There are two different sized t-nuts, 6-32? & 8-32. Don't remember exact count of each. I used Boltdepot.com. Remember shipping costs the same or more than small orders, so always order a few extra.
I am finding that it's really annoying having a lot of different part sizes (washers, etc.) Just the way it is. I'll try an post what I've ordered for my machine over the last month or so. Mostly disposables.
I did the braid route. I like the idea that nvu4prod provided, but I had already bought and installed all new sockets with the wire braid. If you are going to be using LEDs, they are typically brighter to make up for any loss that being a little lower might cause.

thx for the reply

I had a quick scan and they all looked 6-32 but the underside is still populated so hopefully the larger ones become more obvious once everything is removed. Ill be removing the lamp/coil loom soon and placing in dishwasher as this machine was so dirty. Ill clean switch loom by hand as don't want to get microswitches wet.

I love the look and feel of the original lamps so will be staying with them. I have decided to stay with the braid.

Regards
Russell

#42 3 months ago

Fin Shanks you vex me.

I figured with the problems I had I should install the pop bumpers early. After cleaning and rebuilding the bottom components, I went to attach them, only to find 4 out of 9 fin shanks were spinning. I popped one back through the top only to find the fins had collapsed. Of course I don't have extras. Moral of the story, order more than what you need. If I were to do it again, I would order 15 instead of 9. Again, I have to pay for shipping and wait. I already tossed the old ones.

This time when I install, I will be hammering and using a bolt on the top side as a striker rather than swinging the hammer near the surface of the playfield. I'm certain the fins collapsed when pulling in using a nut and washers. Some of them were spinning during that process.

#43 3 months ago

Here is the list of parts I have ordered. I've adjusted the quantities to either be the quantity I ordered, or the amount I would order if I were to do it again.
The items in blue are parts I've ordered that I am expecting to use, but haven't yet.

(I didn't include the LEDs)

Source Part Desc qty
Bolt Depot
7302 T-Nuts, Zinc plated steel, #6-32 25
7303 T-Nuts, Zinc plated steel, #8-32 17
7295 K-Lock nuts, Zinc plated steel, #6-32 1 bag of 100

Marco
254-5035-00 Spacer - plastic standoff 5/16" x 2-7/16" black 12
02-3406-1 Plunger - pop bumper 3
10-7 Spring - compression pop bumper 10A-7 5
10-101-4 Spring - extension 4
AE-23-800 - Coil - solenoid no diode 1
10-326 Spring - compression jet bumper 5
10-128 Spring - compression 10
38-6420 Rubber grommet - tan 4
4700-00072-00 Washer 0.265 inch x 0.500 inch x 0.032 inch 20
10-364 Flipper return and drop target return spring 8
20-8712-18 E-clip for 3/16" shaft 20A-8712-18 2
03-8749 - Drop target - Williams black flat 03-8036 3
03-7066-5 Coil sleeve - 1/2 x 2-3/16 inch 260-0003-00 3
03-7066-4 Coil sleeve - 2-1/16" 1
03-7067 Coil sleeve - 1/2 x 1-7/8 inch 545-5076-01 2
03-7066 Coil sleeve - 1-3/4 x 1/2 inch 9
03-7655-8 Cable clamp 1/2 inch diameter single 10
03-7655-12 Cable clamp 3/4 inch diameter single 4
02-4056 Bumper post 8-32 bottom 6-32 top studs 5
530-5008-00 Post stud 6-32 x 2-3/8 inch 8-32 top 15
31-1463-568 EARTHSHAKER (Williams) Target decals 1

Pinball Resource (pbr)
Complete Flipper rebuild kits for all 3 flippers
New Coils for all 3 flippers

If you want the excel sheet, please PM me. I couldn't figure out how to attach file.

parts_table (resized).png
#44 3 months ago
Quoted from rmillman:

Here is the list of parts I have ordered. I've adjusted the quantities to either be the quantity I ordered, or the amount I would order if I were to do it again.
The items in blue are parts I've ordered that I am expecting to use, but haven't yet.
(I didn't include the LEDs)
Source Part Desc qty
Bolt Depot
7302 T-Nuts, Zinc plated steel, #6-32 25
7303 T-Nuts, Zinc plated steel, #8-32 17
7295 K-Lock nuts, Zinc plated steel, #6-32 1 bag of 100
Marco
254-5035-00 Spacer - plastic standoff 5/16" x 2-7/16" black 12
02-3406-1 Plunger - pop bumper 3
10-7 Spring - compression pop bumper 10A-7 5
10-101-4 Spring - extension 4
AE-23-800 - Coil - solenoid no diode 1
10-326 Spring - compression jet bumper 5
10-128 Spring - compression 10
38-6420 Rubber grommet - tan 4
4700-00072-00 Washer 0.265 inch x 0.500 inch x 0.032 inch 20
10-364 Flipper return and drop target return spring 8
20-8712-18 E-clip for 3/16" shaft 20A-8712-18 2
03-8749 - Drop target - Williams black flat 03-8036 3
03-7066-5 Coil sleeve - 1/2 x 2-3/16 inch 260-0003-00 3
03-7066-4 Coil sleeve - 2-1/16" 1
03-7067 Coil sleeve - 1/2 x 1-7/8 inch 545-5076-01 2
03-7066 Coil sleeve - 1-3/4 x 1/2 inch 9
03-7655-8 Cable clamp 1/2 inch diameter single 10
03-7655-12 Cable clamp 3/4 inch diameter single 4
02-4056 Bumper post 8-32 bottom 6-32 top studs 5
530-5008-00 Post stud 6-32 x 2-3/8 inch 8-32 top 15
31-1463-568 EARTHSHAKER (Williams) Target decals 1
Pinball Resource (pbr)
Complete Flipper rebuild kits for all 3 flippers
New Coils for all 3 flippers
If you want the excel sheet, please PM me. I couldn't figure out how to attach file.
[quoted image]

This is extremely useful thank you
We don't have a bolt depot in the uk sadly, will have to find another source for those components.

#45 89 days ago

i have pictures of the wiring in the backbox. Let me know if you still need them.

#46 84 days ago
Quoted from russdx:

Yeah its just the lamp height is my only concern as the factory gi lamp holder (most) are flush with back if pf si the lamp is higher on the pf side.
Regards
Russell

I replaced all lamp holders and made sure I got the flush mounts with tabs for soldering new wire. Didn't have a problem at all

#47 82 days ago
Quoted from rgb635:

I replaced all lamp holders and made sure I got the flush mounts with tabs for soldering new wire. Didn't have a problem at all

Do these have a bolt hole to bolt to the pf? or do you just stable over the tabs? Have you got a link to the lamp holder?

Thanks

#48 82 days ago
Quoted from russdx:

Do these have a bolt hole to bolt to the pf? or do you just stable over the tabs? Have you got a link to the lamp holder?
Thanks

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5031-00

This is the type holder I used. Marco & Pinball life both carry them. Make sure you get the right type for the type of bulb you are using.

Screenshot 2019-03-25 at 9.48.45 PM (resized).png
#49 82 days ago

I have enjoyed reading this thread. Getting ready to do a full restore on earthshaker myself.
Good luck getting it up and running.
https://www.pinballlife.com/big-bag-of-everything.html
Something every pinball guy should have in his collection

#50 82 days ago
Quoted from rgb635:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5031-00
This is the type holder I used. Marco & Pinball life both carry them. Make sure you get the right type for the type of bulb you are using.
[quoted image]

Ah perfect, and the lamp holder sits flush with the pf top once installed so the lamp sits at the same height it did with the factory holders?

Regards
Russell

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