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Thanks. I need to order a bunch of LEDs and will make sure to get some non ghosting.
Just picked up Funhouse as well. Consensus seems to be OCD’s are needed there.
Can someone help with a question on posts?
The pictures are of the area by the left sling. The end of the ramp is supported by two plastic posts. I don’t think this is right and the beacon is too high (hits the PF glass). What is it supposed to be?
A36E8DE1-C9F1-4942-86CA-3866436E606A (resized).jpegFB56AFC9-43B5-4472-81A0-7DB31955819E (resized).jpegI don’t think it’s a shorter one. It should Just be put in from underneath.
Here’s a picture of it from on top. I also took a picture of the next one up. Should the others be mounted from underneath too?
D49BB6BB-CF2C-4EF9-B6B5-CCF8DB80A1F9 (resized).jpegD72A7FC0-4A20-403E-BE55-29A972965809 (resized).jpegNeed some help on my ES.
See the picture. I’m pretty certain the rubber rings should go across the space where the habitrail is located. If this is true shouldn’t the post on the left be a double ring post? Behind the habitrail is a screw. Should there be a double ring post there too?
Thanks for any guidance anyone can give.
AAA2266D-A587-42C3-AA9E-6B93FC38A478 (resized).jpegQuoted from Chosen_S:I just dealt with this yesterday, lol
Use 4” rubber
Yes double ring post directly behind habitrail
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the pictures. Can’t quite figure out the screw I have. Seems like if a post were on there it would block the hole.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I think that screw is an error. The screw you’re looking for is (looking at your photo) is to the left behind the vuk wireform
The post way under the plastic is there. The bare screw clearly needs to come out but in looking to the right of the white target I see two posts. I don’t think the front post belongs there. Is that correct?
On the left side of the playfield by Zone 8 I see a double ring post. Is this supposed to be a single? If so I need to remove both posts on the right side and trade one for the double ring post.
97BDA6C8-959A-4FE9-9604-504ABB182B00 (resized).jpeg9CF10F6B-BB6E-4D58-A51A-4446ADF97206 (resized).jpegQuoted from jhanley:The one south of that post shouldn’t either.There should only be 3 posts.
Thanks for pointing that out. Basically I have two extra posts-just above and just below the wire form and hole. Both are on the section of playfield that is painted white.
I’ll need to play with this some. As Scoot pointed out I would end up with 3 holes (including the bare screw to the right of the hole). Fortunately the rings may block the view of the holes or the evidence of filling and painting them.
Puzzling how things ended up this way. Of course a lot can happen over 30 years.
A further complication. I removed the two extra posts and the bare screw. As expected they are wood screws. I attempted to remove the single ring post and figured out either the machine screw or t nut are stripped. To make matters worse the t nut is covered by the plastic ramp that runs from the upper playfield. Based on a quick look it seems removing the ramp is major undertaking.
I’m inclined to cheat here. If I cut off the screw head I can remove the post and then cut the screw off at playfield level. I can then drill a new hole close to the old one and attach the post using a wood screw. Post should cover the old hole.
Am I missing something?
Quoted from russdx:It’s not that much work to remove the subway. Just need to remove the bottom VUK and then a couple screws holding the subway down.
Thanks. That’s good to know for future reference. I took the easy route and cut the screw as flush with the playfield as possible. Relocated post covers it. I’ll correct it if I need to pull the subway. Post will cover the hole I made.
Quoted from atrainn:Speaking of, how do you get that coil off? I need to replace the sleeve in mine but the head of the plunger keeps you from removing the coil, even when you unscrew it from the mounting hardware.
I pulled the unit out of the machine (removed the switch and desoldered the coil). I never removed the coil but I would think once the screws that hold it in place were removed the coil and sleeve would come out to the right as shown in the picture.
BE21E659-351D-4ADD-8CDF-D5A87BB6AC66 (resized).jpegMy test report is showing an error on switch 36 - left ramp bypass. I’ve checked the manual and don’t see 36 on the diagram. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
100K is switch 35. 34 is 25K and 33 is 50000. Slochar, by skipping the spiral do you mean go short and not go into the spiral at all? I could see that being an issue since I never do that. On mine a full pull nearly always goes to the 100K and rarely goes past it. In any event I do not see a switch beyond the 100,000 hole.
I’ll try the short plunge.
When I got the machine it wasn’t able to make it to the 100K hole but things have improved. I remember playing this years ago and those games overshooting the holes on a full plunge. I may put in a stronger spring to make it more of a challenge.
Quoted from slochar:It's one or the other I think it scores 10k when you do that. Try going into switch test and short plunging into it I don't know if you can reach it by hand.
I finally found the switch. It’s to the right and down a little from the spiral entrance and can be reached with a dowel. I cleared the error so now it doesn’t appear as a fault. At least now I’ll know where to look next time.
Quoted from roffels:Alright, another question. I can't seem to make a full shot through the spiral ramp. I ordered a red spring from Marcos, and still can't make it all the way through. Anyone else have this issue or use an alternative shooter spring?
I’m not using a red spring (can’t remember what is in it) and can make it all the way through about one time in 20 on a full pull. Make sure your shooter rod is lined up with the ball.
Quoted from nvu4prod:Totally agree!
[quoted image]
You’re on the right track.
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