Hi everyone,

I'm working on my Earthshaker rebuild and it's finally moving again, I've been taking my time, look over at restorations to see the work. I have almost everything (first layer) on the playfield, but have 3 holes I need some help with.
It looks like there are some types of posts that should be supporting the ramps (see pictures 1 & 3) . I didn't have them on my machine when I took them apart, at least I don't think I did. My ramps are a little chewed up so I'm going to use Cliffy's to fix / hide those areas.
I've found a couple of pictures from others, but not real clear on what should be there. If you can help identify that would be great.
Also, in picture 2, there is a hole that I cannot find anything that should go there. In my old playfield, it looks unused as well, but wanted to be sure.
For additional reference:
Image 1 shows the predrilled hole for (something) where the scenic earthquake ramp goes.
Image 2 is showing the top left area of the playfield.
Image 3 is shows the predrilled hole for (something) where the fault ramp goes.

I'm thinking that since I didn't have anything there I may have to order some parts.

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Would you guys say that's a metal post, a screw with the same plastic spacer that's all over or something with a rubber sleeve?

Anyone have a clean copy of this ring map? I don't see it in the owners guide or the blue parts manual.

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Late to the game, but they only had a couple of nylon spacers like that in use. The most likely part choice is that someone lost it when replacing a yellow rubber next to the ramp post (to the right of the drop targets). It went on top of the yellow rubber cork.

Finally putting boards back into the game after multiple years. Of course, I didn't take pictures. Can someone please take pictures of the backbox showing which connectors go to each board?

Thanks

Can anyone provide information on when and what can be connected, turned on and tested during a rebuild? I have about 80% of the playfield done, can I plug everything in and turn it on (as long as no shorted wires) safely and test what is connected? Should I wait until everything is on the playfield?

I figure it will be easier to fix things before everything is in place.

Thoughts?

Anyone ever notice on the documentation in the lamp matrix table there are 4 jet bumpers?

• Jet Bumper Center (Column 1, Row 8 )
• Top Jet Bumper (Column 6, Row 1 )
• Left Jet Bumper (Column 6, Row 2 )
• Right Jet Bumper (Column 6, Row 3 )

Am I missing something in the manual? I am looking to understand what each fuse is for so that if something isn't working, I can check the list and find the fuse.
In the manual, there is a page showing what each fuse (part number) is and the location, but I cannot find the purpose. As an example, which fuses operate the lower GI?

What's the right way to test power coming from transformer?

I am having a problem (rebuilding playfield not the transformer) with my lower gi. So I figured I would start from the transformer and work my way to the light bulbs. I'm guessing there is a short somewhere, but thought, since I've never actually started this game when I got it, I would learn and start at the beginning.

The schematic indicates 2 solid and 2 yellow / white wires coming from the transformer. I figured I would test those. Using the principal of it's usually something simple, I assume I am the problem. When I test each of the lines in the connector touching from the line to ground wire in the cabinet, I get different voltages (AC). Then I went looking on the web for how to test a transformer and I am seeing that I'm probably doing it wrong. Should I be testing from pin 1 to pin 2 and pin 3 to pin 4? If so, what should I expect to see?

Downstream, each of those wires get split (parallel) to 2 wires each to connect to the interconnect board. If I want to check the power on the output of the interconnect board, I would use connectors 2J7, 2J9 and 2J10. What's the right way to check the voltage on each of the pins? As an example, testing the lighting on the coin door, do I use 2J10, touching pins 9 and 10, or do I test each individual, if so, what is common?

Thanks

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Anyone put LEDs in the building? Trying to decide if I should change out. If so, what did you use and are you happy with the choice?

Found it in Europe. Check this link. https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/switch-dual-leaf-contact-assy.html
Otherwise you may have to build it.

My machine isn't fully running yet, but I'm not really seeing flicker with just the power on.

I do have some concerns about my flashers though. Still rebuilding.
You can check this out:

Thoughts on replacing ramp flaps.

I'm considering using stainless rather than blue spring steel. Anyone have any thoughts on the topic?

Can someone help confirm some of the information in the pictures attached?
In the first picture, look for the arrow, should the post be touching the pop bumper like that?
If so, I think I have some problems in the 2nd and 3rd pictures.
Can someone also provide the lengths of the labeled posts in the 4th picture, I'm thinking I have them in the wrong order.
If you have the length, please provide (i.e. 1 - 3", 2 - 2.5", etc.)
There are 5 in total (although I know #6 is the same size as 5 and gets installed on the ramp.

Thanks for the help.

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I don't think that's the issue. Someone identified that issue a while ago and I replaced them with the right williams body. I think I have the standoffs mixed up.

Good question. It's a tricky one, I've provided a picture. It goes inside of the subway, I'm guessing to protect it, or else to help with alignment.

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Impressive that's the only piece you can't figure out. I'm almost done putting mine together and I think I have a few unknowns that I will have to go back and look for.
BTW, there are a couple of grounding wires (bare) that come from the cabinet to the head, I cannot remember where they attach, if you can check that for me, it would be great.

I ended up changing that post out since there wasn't really enough room when adding the cliffy connector. I think I changed to 8/32 on top, it was a little longer. I might be able to find the part number, let me know if needed.

pinballlarry1 I'm about to try and replace my shaker motor. The set screws are really tight, do you think they used locktite? Did you heat your weights up to get them off?

I don't want to mess anything up, contemplating just swapping the brushes. (I have the new motor, so I would rather do what you did.) BTW, what paint did you use? Looks great, even though it will be hidden by the cover.

FYI for anyone else working on the shaker motor. They did use locktite on the set screws in the weights.
I had to use a torch to heat up for 15 seconds or so and the screws came out.
There was still locktite in the hole, so you will need to either have a few extra set screws (with heat) to clean it out or possibly use a 8/32 tap.

That light should be mounted on the other side of the playfield (topside). The socket and wires go through the hole and the unit is mounted on top of the playfield. I should be able to send you a picture tomorrow.

Trying to finally finish almost 8 year rebuild. Missing some pictures and possibly some screws. Does anyone have any good pictures, top / bottom possibly even screw sizes for the Nevada sliding piece? I only took a top picture, so I'm guessing as to how everything was supposed to go.
When I dry fit everything, the Nevada / California ramp is tilting toward the top of the playfield, pretty sure this is incorrect.

Here is the original picture I took.
Not sure if I need nuts on the bottom of the nevada where the habitrail connects. I think I may have misplaced the original screw. The one I have is too long (which makes me think I used the shorter one elsewhere, but not sure where.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Can someone tell me where this goes? This is a grounding wire that is attached to the base of the left side of the head of the cabinet. I'm guessing it should be used to hold the main board and ground it, but it's been a long time and I don't have that picture.

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That metal part is shown and identified in https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/earthshaker-owners-club-its-all-your-fault/page/31#post-7046768

I'm not sure

I don't remember where I got these. I'm guessing someone from pinside years ago.

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Are you asking about the machine topper or the signs over the ramps?

would someone please post a picture of the back box locking mechanism with the back box unlocked. (From inside the back box). Looking to see orientation so I can reassemble. Also does someone have a good resource for locks for older machines? The ones I have seem smaller in diameter the outside ring where the lock hits the door or wood than originals. I tried taking one apart but all the tumblers and pins just fell out.

Sorry, never saw that before. Looks cool.

Just when I thought I was done, I'm finding that I'm missing a piece.
Does anyone know what the chromed protector in the shooter lane (protects from the ball kickout) is called? Anyone know where I might find one?

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Does anyone know if the Stern protector, (what Pinball life has) is the same size as the one for ES?

I ordered the stern protector. It is smaller than the original one with Earthshaker, but I installed it and it's doing the job. It required adding a new hole for the second screw. Not a big deal, most people would never notice or know. Just sharing for those who are interested. This was the last piece that needed to be installed on my rebuild.

Thanks to everyone who helped over the years, there were many.

The backboard has wires going to 2 different connectors on the interconnect board.
J7 has 5 wires, J11 has the one brown wire. Pictures below.

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Don't beat yourself up. Schematics is a skill and an art. Sometimes I can read them right, other times I can't. Takes practice. First try reading / following areas that you know. On the earthshaker, some of the drawings are more wiring diagrams than schematic diagrams.

There are a lot of great people here who are willing to help with no judgement, many of them started with the same challenges (I know I've counted on many people here).

OK, I cannot comment as to if there is a board issue, others can answer that better.
I blew a ton of fuses during my rebuild.
It sounds like there may be some cross wiring and it might be related to another feature. So if you rebuilt the bumpers and they look fine, it might be something that is wrongly shorting with the bumpers that only when you activate that feature are you having the issue.
I don't know if you have a tone generator. I would put that on the bumper circuit, with the machine turned off and see if you are getting noise from wires you don't expect (might want to unplug from the board first).

If you aren't familiar, a tone generator is used by telephony to cause a noise to be generated on a wire (then picked up by a receiver). It aids in finding wires in the wall.

If I remember correctly, the jets share a common ground, check for there being something too close to one of those wires.

I thought I was done...

Anyone know the sequence that should allow the ball to go to the fault, get shot up to the top and then have the fault open so the ball will drop down to the shelter?

Every time I shoot it up to the fault, the states open and close a couple of times, but then always close up so the ball comes down to the right flipper.

Thoughts?

You are correct, I did mean the left flipper. I'll have to go see what's going on with that. Maybe I didn't put together correctly.

I'm having the same problem. I also think it's the spring. What or where did you find a right spring?

Any chance you can get the institute to sink when the playfield one does? Possibly break apart?

More likely that it was locktite than cross threaded. That was how they did it from the factory. Can be a pain.
You can get the t-nuts in many places. I think this is the post: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5012-02 Marco is out right now, might be some other suppliers.

For future reference: https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/rvsk/#p=560
I think the part you are looking for is 02-4002-3
This might work: https://actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=530-5012-02