For anyone wanting an overload of photos on an Earthshaker being restored...

"Short" version with somewhat helpful info:
http://4130-products.com/pinball/index.php/earthshaker-restore/

All photos from restore to look over:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9P7gEwDRURCpk9te2

Painted, waited a few days for paint to fully cure, masked off around W logo and then sanded with 80 or 120 grit. Put sandpaper on a block of wood or some other hard flat surface and then go in one direction while keeping flat on logo. just takes a few passes to knock off the paint.

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Black hammer paint from Rust-oleum. I had media blasted the coindoor, cleaned with Naphtha and then painted with the hammer paint. The coin door looks great, but it way more grey than black. The next one I do I'll put down a couple of light coats of plain black spray paint, then the black hammer paint and hopefully get a deeper black result.

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Send to me for and I'll figure it out and do some long term testing. A simple L bracket(s) and screws. Might be even better if you have semi tubular rivets to mount the plastic to the bracket, that might look a bit more OE than screw heads. Then 2 holes in the top of the back box and simple wood screws to secure in place.

Lets get THE two questions out of the way:

1 - Does yours have the building that drops into the playfield?
2 - Do you have Whirlwind?

These are standard issue questions for most Earthshaker owners... may as well be a T-shirt at this point.

NVRAM and non ghosting LEDs.
CPR's topper: https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/earthshaker-6/

Pin doing what pins do... break. Display was all good, packed up pin and took to Nashville and set up... score display has 4 dead spots. Photo taken during test mode. I've traded out the ribbon cable with a known good unit, no change. Visual inspection of circuit board, no obvious issues found such as cracked solder joints or burnt spots.

Suggestions?

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Fixed it, while no visual issues found were ever found, and wiggle testing didn't do anything.... I resoldered the header pins and that fixed it.

As I recall, the taller round post is for the spiral.

Photos of post around drop targets:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jt7dM55q8RbTEDk37
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WK7fx2QLDEXvS43F8

Full photo dump if needed:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9P7gEwDRURCpk9te2

I ran into this issue as well. I tweaked/adjusted things and never could get it to clear the wire guide every time... about 50% of the time the ball would get hung up there. So I just bend the wire guide out a hair and with that, problem solved.

As per the unwritten rules of ES ownership... you are required to be asked:

1 - Do you have Whirlwind?
2 - Does the building drop?

No ES owner escapes these questions.

Hopefully this helps:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-score-diplay-issue-

And I'll dogpile on those batteries as well. Get NVRAM and never worry about batteries again.

I've purchased several kits from Cointaker and have been super happy with them. Go with nonghosting, I didn't the with the first kit and that was a mistake. I later replaced the controlled lights with nonghosting.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fB12apux8PEhuXkB8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mUUemPt4sbXc7PD9A

Note that I cleaned and repainted the light board as well:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/T8b3PaTccau7WGUn9

The LEDs behind the "Earthshaker" in the upper right blink which is pretty cool looking, semi-animated looking.

Those photos kind of give you an idea of how "intense" they are, to which I like because I have trouble tracking the ball in dim lighting. But these photos do make things look washed out, it isn't like that in person... IMHO, this pin really "pops", it is bright and vivid.

Some pins I've purchased have had LED kits in them that were subpar, thus they were replaced with Cointaker kits and the results are better. I have no issues recommending them based on my experiences and results.

Just finished up installing the sinking building mod. Few things to pass along to the next person.

It can be done by yourself with the playfield in the cabinet... but it won't be fun. The worst part of the whole install is getting that first screw through the mounting bracket into the bottom of the playfield. Trying to hold the unit in place and working updsidedownish sucked. I used a bit of contact cement to keep the screws in the bit holder... but having a second person operate the drill to run that first screw in place while I held the unit in place would of been the smart wait to do it. If the playfield is out, then it might be minor task by yourself... well getting the playfield out by yourself.. have fun.

The instructions say to remove two white plastic "wire clamps". The mounting bracket kind of goes where they are. But removing the two wire clamps kind of creates a minor wiring issue, a mass of wires wants to rest/touch the soldier connection of the motor. Wire + sharp edges + vibration + time = sparks!

I was able to mount the 2 white plastic wire clamps to the plate. Where the relay is, I got a longer screw and secured it. I also put some yellow plastic split loom along the edge of the metal plate. You can see a smaller wiring bundle that is kind of snug against the metal plate. Same mathematical problem as before, so the yellow split loom should prevent those wires from damaged.

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The other wire clamp is secured in place with a screw that holds a plastic guide in place.

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I was able to secure the pigtail harness on with the wire clamp on the left so it can't hang around and fatigue fail down the road.

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Hmmm... mine is in position 1, that is how I got it.

I got repo ramps from Marco's years ago when I rebuilt my ES.... I guess they might be Starship stuff... and they fit, but only after some work. The plastic is much thicker so they should last longer.

The right side ramp wasn't even close to being flush to the playfield. First photo is after I had already started to rework it.
1 (resized).jpg

I just used a bastard and worked away at the lower lip there to thin it out.
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This is where I left it, works fine, can't really tell in person and there isn't any ball hop issue to speak of.
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The center/left ramp would not fit over the left pop bumper, so I had to grind down the cap.
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And once the ramp is in place you can't tell.
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As I recall, I also think the screw holes at the entry points of the ramps were not counter sunk, so I had to take care of that so the screw heads would be flush.

If I were to do it again, instead of filing on the right ramp, I would of used a router and cut into the playfield a small pocket for the ramp rest.

I also rebuild an Whirlwind and kind of ran into the same type of issues, replacement ramps fit, but only after some work. Take your time, think about what the issue is and when you are done they look great.

You have to work with the aftermarket ramps, they don't just bolt right up... flex or bend things to get them bolted down. I had the same kind of "issues" when I did my WW and I expect the same when I get around to Funhouse.

I got the sinking building kit a year or so ago, it isn't difficult to install, but it isn't easy... or at least while the playfield is in the cabinet... kind of working upside down. It might be helpful to have some one hold it in place to the playfield while you get that first screw started.

IMHO, you will need to do some "wiring management" when you install the kit to keep wires from rubbing and shorting out down the road. Get two 3/4" cable clamps, Williams part number 03-7655-12 and some a small bit of 1/4" cable split loom.

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The cable clamps are along the back side bottom edge, you can't really see the second one because of the relay.... to which, I had to swap out the bolt that holds the relay in place for a longer one so I could fit cable clamp. And you can clearly see the yellow split loom along the edge there to help prevent "rub" on the wiring harness

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Back side of the unit in amazing blurry view, but you can see the two cable clamps.

You might have better luck if you braze it.

Several of my inserts were "blank" as well and I repainted them. I have a plotter cutter for making vinyl stickers and decals. I made stencils for the inserts and painted with spray paint. Later, the whole playfield was clear coated. If anyone wants to make their own stencils, here are the files:

https://app.box.com/s/8bskzn4iw8gkkxsr3sa0pozm291g2rfb

They do not have the "crack" design as the fault zone numbers, that was too fine of a detail for the plotter cutter to do. If interested, here is the "cliff notes" version and full photo dump links:

http://4130-products.com/pinball/index.php/earthshaker-restore/
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9P7gEwDRURCpk9te2

Good luck on your new project, post updates!

IMHO, doesn't matter that much.

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Last rebuild, have the playfield still on the bench and had all 3 harnesses hooked up and did my testing. Everything was fine.

If you wanted to play it safer, hook up just the switch harness, power up and test. Then do the lamps, power up and test and finally the coils/flashers, power up and test. Testing out of the pin is better because IF you have to dig into something, a lot easier on the bench.

It is a bit ... exciting.. that first time you power it up after having it torn down.

All LEDs (Cointaker) in mine and I've been very happy with it. Difficult to get a good photo since they kind of "blow out" in the photo, be here you go.

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If you want to be able to answer "yes" to to the first question everyone ask as soon as they find you have ES, then yes, get WW.

Photo dump of mine:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/9P7gEwDRURCpk9te2

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only

http://www.pinballcards.com/

There is a Walgreens 5 minutes from my house, I use the website to upload the images and get 4X6 prints made, then trim them down to size. It cost just pocket change per print.

Photo dump of my ES job that might be helpful:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-earthshaker-photo-dump-of-full-restore

Well I'm currently stuck in one of your airports as I write this.

Plan on pulling the playfield out. ES was my first "big project" and quickly you'll find there is no room to work. Once the playfield is out, it isn't as bad. You may need to get some pliers on a metal post to keep it from spinning as you go to remove nuts and such, not a big deal.

Search my post history, I've got some threads of photo dumps of past projects that might be helpful.

I'm going to go join the riot now at terminal 4, we demand more tiny bags of pretzels.

Sounds like I was luckier than others. 24 hour delay, I've just now boarded my final flight... no pretzels, so British Airways is got to get a firmly worded letter from me.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9P7gEwDRURCpk9te2

Looks to be the same on mine as well:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LzeYFKNcfjAtvfXP9

Photo would of been taken right after ramp was removed.... so maybe for ramp?

Took a closer look at mine... and that spot isn't used. Couldn't see it until I shoved my phone into there.

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/9P7gEwDRURCpk9te2

Should be helpful for the top side of the playfield.

Pics or GTFO! We want to see the fruits of your labor.

I like the cracks in the apron, nice theme touch.