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On mine I was getting the 50k error. You can reach it with a long small wooden dowel to activate when game is on. Clears out every time. With a good plunger I can bypass that 100k easily.
My #1 has a post there also, it ends up under the ramp curled edge on right. Identical to your old setup. Has screw on top like yours. Doesn’t look like it does anything, just a screw in top. It does clear the repro ramps as they are thicker. #1 is probably just a wood screw to hold it down with a threaded top. I can’t recall since my swap was 2 yrs ago. John
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Hello everyone, my friend has asked me to do a PF swap on his ES. He's thinking of picking up a CPR repro. My last couple of experiences with CPR make me a bit gun-shy. I see there is already a post about the holes not lining up.
For those of you with new repros that have started to install, is there anything else that I need to know? Any other glaring issues? Chipping paint or clear?
Thanks in advance.
You can copy off old playfield dimple locations. I had no problem with actual holes. I would say the PF itself should be re-cleared. Seems like the clear they use is a little soft, you can see the clear dimpled everywhere after 50 games. I send mine out to Kruzman. Worth the wait if game is a keeper.
Quoted from 8bitrobo:I picked up the pink car version from CPR this year. The mirroring definitely wasn't as clear as the original, but I can still see my reflection.
CPR glass & speaker panel on sample game
8A2E7D94-FF18-4222-B201-08F8DD7E7DA4 (resized).jpegC77AA4DD-B492-4E13-AAFA-DAB44BABE20E (resized).jpegQuoted from jdzwir123:Did they ever make an alternative version for the back glass?
Quoted from nvu4prod:Nice work! Curious, where did you purchase your cabinet decals? They look awesome!
The problem with the new next gen head decals is both sides are printed the same. So the right side one the state of California is actually backwards. It should be facing opposite of left side. Pictured is the original proto cabinet & I think the regular production was the same way. J
8D72EDD0-8DDA-4570-B394-54AB343B16BF (resized).jpegQuoted from joetechbob:That looks much better. Is that from a recent run? I ordered one a few months back but haven't cracked open the box yet. Will have to do that now given the earlier image.
This one was about a 1-1/2 - 2 years ago. Maybe the new runs are different now?
Quoted from mozach:I got one a couple of months ago and it’s not mirrored. It’s definitely disappointing. I just stuck with the original that I had.
CPR’s site description says mirrored. Their pics are just silver. I see the are not offering mirrored or non-mirrored anymore. Has anyone reached out to Kevin at CPR? If you look at the ES speaker skin page that is my sample game shown in the pic. Like I said, older run? Disappointing now for sure for all the others.
Quoted from transprtr4u:My apron decals , and game ID cards got done today ... went new style on the identification stickers even the bar code works
[quoted image]
Very nice.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:There should NOT be a screw in there at all. Someone has rigged it!!! In addition, there should also be a spring which holds the ball cradle. You need a new assembly. I would also inspect the other one in the machine, likely it's been messed with too
Rebuild kit is available, don’t know what’s up with that screw.
33618FAF-9FAB-47A1-B0B8-E833B27E25B9 (resized).jpegQuoted from Mk1Mod0:Okay, a spring makes much more sense. So the switch is normally open and when a ball comes in it closes to let the machine know it is there to be kicked out(or held) and once the ball is kicked out the switch is open again. Is that right?
If you look at the switch you can tell if it’s open or closed in normal state. Is it not working? Coil not firing?
Quoted from tylery85:Dont have it but I like the
What upgrades did you make to the sound?
I keep eyeing the speaker panel upgrade here:
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-speaker-skins/earthshaker-speaker-skin/
The pics of the speaker panel from CPR is actually my game. Since I have a sample game I went with the backglass also. Great colors also.
8177C1E8-D920-48A8-87DC-050DFCF39D4E (resized).jpegC60E684E-9C5B-45FC-A6F9-058C094CFAFC (resized).jpegQuoted from billsfanmd:Trying to join the club. ALways easy to find in the past but seems they have dried up with all the new collectors. Quick question. How hard is a pf swap? I have been in hobby 10 years, Ive shopped 20 plus pins and do basic repairs. I just think I dont have patience to do an ES swap. Also, what I have found when I work on a game for a long time that needed alot of work, by the time I finish I never want to see it again. There is one in NC that is being sold needing a pf swap. Prob more then I want to spend. LMK if anyone selling.
The one in NC is way overpriced. I’d say $3500 including the new playfield.
Quoted from billsfanmd:I thought 51 was insane. 4 max
Yea I wouldn’t go 4K. I have a sample game with a new playfield, plastics, mechs etc.. I’d be lucky to get $5-$5500
Quoted from WalrusPin:what's a current fair price for one of these with some minor playfield and plastics damage, but otherwise functional? Any "gotchas" to look for when checking it out?
Thanks!
Besides cosmetically, I’d check the interconnect board for any burnt connectors, make sure Cali/Nevada split open & closes properly. Overall a solid system 11 game.
Quoted from WalrusPin:Thank you - do you have a picture of how to check that Cali/Nevada split?
No I don’t have a pic, but there is a lot of info here on Pinside along with gameplay videos online.
Quoted from WalrusPin:Thank you, that's what I needed. Does anyone still sell the sinking institute motor kit or is that a DIY these days?
Try Mark at basementarcade.com. Don’t know if he still makes them. DIY? Doubt it.
Quoted from Jmckune:I got lucky with mine. I did do extensive cleaning, replaced bulbs with LEDs and did new rubber and ramps. It is also a sample model with nice screened cabinet so no fade and has factory sinking building. I think the playfield looks nicer than most original Earthshakers but does have a bit of insert wear up near the lock area for the shelter.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looking sharp. Sample game also. Went with pink backglass, PF, & speaker panel
05382182-0B8E-4CDD-B52E-EC12FAE23F23 (resized).jpeg0BAF4D25-CEDF-4EC1-B6B2-EA07E87D4E65 (resized).jpeg338BA78E-1F07-4141-8C84-F730AFBAB25A (resized).jpegEFECE76A-96D4-4724-B622-6D36018D58B6 (resized).jpegF3D23778-EC28-4095-890E-CD630F0FD9C8 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jmckune:It doesn’t matter much, but your pop caps are all off by one spot, should all move one spot clockwise . Only place you’d be able to tell is in single lamp test. Nice looking playfield. I don’t think mine needs a swap because it is in good condition. My bride of Pinbot and more so Transporter need something. Unfortunately for me, only option on transporter is sending the original playfield out for restoration at who knows what cost. It’s planked badly above the right outlane. Bride just has some lighter planking throughout.
[quoted image]
Yup. After my swap I noticed the pop caps.
Quoted from billsfanmd:You guys are killing me. . Patiently waiting for a nice local ES
They are around. Patience.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Looks great! Ive been looking for ES forever. very hard to find now. There is a very nice one in CA. Has new pf and nice updates. Shipping is crazy these days....but how cool to get an earthshaker that actually may have been in an earthquake
Get on that one in CA, maybe Bob Cunningham can grab it for you since he’s doing 40 states in 4 months. May get lucky.
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