(Topic ID: 87473)

Earthshaker Owners Club - it's all your fault!

By jibmums

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 2,303 posts
  • 293 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by gutz
  • Topic is favorited by 131 Pinsiders

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#252 8 years ago

Does anyone have a lower right wireform? (that feeds the right inlane from the upkicker) Mine has several broken welds and was already poorly repaired.

4 months later
#300 7 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Does anyone have a lower right wireform? (that feeds the right inlane from the upkicker) Mine has several broken welds and was already poorly repaired.

I am still looking for the lower right wireform!

4 months later
#359 7 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

It's your bottom popper switch. It's flakey and or on its way out or isnt adjuated right. The constant popping is a giveaway.

The bottom subway switch, infront of the popper, is stuck closed.

1 year later
#583 6 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Prototype #4 in the house!

Cool to see, thanks for sharing!

3 weeks later
#591 6 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Just putting the finishing touches on my restoration. Very happy with the results.

Bitchin'

1 year later
#885 4 years ago

Reseat the display ribbon cables with the power off.

#887 4 years ago

Post a pic of your mpu, focusing on the battery area/above the battery.

#888 4 years ago

Also - did you reseat both ends of the ribbon cable? Try flipping the cable end for end.

#891 4 years ago
Quoted from dustradio:

Yeah I did, in fact I have a Taxi sitting next to it and here are photos with the corresponding Taxi ribbon cable in the same place. I think I see what y'all are getting that, the ribbon cable being out of place or bad, but cable swap didn't seem to matter and the red line is pin 1 on both connectors.[quoted image][quoted image]

How about a pic of the battery area on the mpu (remove the ribbon cable)? Any battery leaks? The circuitry/traces for the displays are in the corrosion zone.

2 months later
#961 4 years ago
Quoted from atrainn:

Is there anything different about the playfield pivot mechanism on Earthshaker vs other Sys11 games (like Tomcat or Whirlwind)? As far as I can tell the playfield mounting brackets are in the correct spot on the playfield, and the bolts that hold the PF are in the same spot as they are on my Whirlwind (15 inches up from the bottom of the cabinet), but when I lower my playfield on earthshaker I have to slide it forward on the bracket to get the hangers to meet with the front of the cabinet. As far as I can tell the brackets aren't bent, since bending them to meet the bracket makes the apron not fit.
Edit: I decided to just bend the apron and hangers, it doesn't look perfect but it works.

I watched your video. Mine does it as well.

1 year later
#1125 3 years ago
Quoted from jimlund:

The Zone 4 target on my machine is broken. This is the yellow, squared-off edges target. I've seen the round targets advertised for sale, but haven't seen any of the squared-off ones. Does someone sell it? Or is it easier to just buy a round one and trim the edges to fit?
[quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-oblong-stand-up-targets.html

6 months later
#1219 2 years ago
Quoted from 2manypins:

$50 challenge to whoever on this group knows exactly how the shaker Motor Works.
Everything else works on the machine.
New boards include, power board auxiliary power board and interconnect board.
I'm getting 40 volts at the power board I'm getting 40 volts going into the Shaker motor board I'm getting for 4ov on the motor itself but still not working.
I have a new motor from Marco Specialties but still nothing.
Thanks in advance for any help

Is the shaker enabled in the settings menu?

11 months later
#1588 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?
[quoted image]

I'd be interested! I've got a sloppy fault, but it still works. My plan was to weld and cut the slot again if it ever stopped working

4 months later
#1826 1 year ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Earthshaker strange noise on power on. As mentioned, new Rottendog MPU, New Power Board, New Interconnect Board, New Aux Power Board...
New Display, Original Sound Board..
Machine's gameplay and sound all work great. No other machine I've worked on this sound (as something "bad" is happening).
Thank you for your advice and help

Its the rottendog mpu. Had a whirlwind that did something similar at power up with a rottendog mpu. Built a 'dumbass' mpu to replace it and its never happened again. The improvement in sound quality during game play was worth it alone.

#1829 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

How does a dumbass like myself make a "dumbass" mpu? Asking for all the dumbasses out there...

Buy a bare board from Victor (Username: dumbass) and source the components (from the provided BOM) and build the board yourself. Or you can get on the waiting list to pay Victor to build a completed board.

#1850 1 year ago
Quoted from Photopin:

Does anyone know the part number for this wireform?
[quoted image]

not available new, weld your broken one.

3 months later
#2015 9 months ago

They just need power from the two wires and are not individually cpu controlled so they don't need a diode. The socket to socket jumpers were always smaller gauge yellow wire no matter what color gi string they are on (yellow,purple, etc) Each string (playfield left, playfield right, backbox, etc.) has a different solid & striped color wire and they might run thru relays so individual gi strings can be turned off/on for lighting effects. Each string is also individually fused.

2 months later
#2099 6 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

After some testing all flippers are weak , installed new pre-assembled flipper assembly during restore.
Thinking the problem is the 2 diodes on the new mech, the original only had one?
[quoted image]

I'll second the EOS. Rub a business card with alcohol on it between the contacts, new ones have a film that needs to be removed. You also need to adjust it so the blades are closed firmly when the flipper is at rest and about 1/8" open when at full stroke. Rarely will new EOS switches not need adjusting - they look open in your pic but its hard to tell.

4 months later
#2281 58 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

When I press SW1 on the CPU, I get two long tones, different pitches and one after the other and that's it.
From PinWiki:
"Pressing the upper switch of the two switches on the side of the MPU board will test both the CVSD and DAC on the MPU board. The first sound is typically sound ROM (on the MPU) specific, and it is a test of the CVSD chip. The second sound is described as a "twing", and it is a test for the DAC. If no sounds are heard, refer to the potential issues listed above in the previous section. If one "ring" is heard, it denotes that the U23 RAM chip has failed. Two or four rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U21 ROM. Three or five rings denotes that there is a problem associated with U22 ROM."
CPU is brand new. Something else possibly than bad rom at U21?

Here is what the music/sound/mpu switch tests should sound like:

#2285 56 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Looking more into this issue, the actuator arm that moves the metal plate attached to California doesn't stay in the square hole all the time. You'll see about halfway through this video that it does engage properly sometimes, but will just slip out OR extend the states too far and the ball falls through onto the playfield.
I see Marco has a replacement bar for $40. Is this the solution, or am I missing something?
[quoted image]

Im not saying its your issue but its less expensive here: https://mantispinball.com/pinball-parts/earthshaker/earthshaker-fault-assembly-actuator-arm/

Hard to tell what the problem is without seeing the mech in person. The plastic piece on the bottom could also be worn: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8090

1 month later
#2303 5 days ago

Push the metal pin out of the plastic end (inside the U slot) to remove the cup of the kicker. Mind the spring.

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