Earthshaker
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Quoted from jibmums:Uh, duh, forgot to finish my post, can one of you guys snap a few pix of the correct setup so I can duplicate it? Thanks. Can't figure out why on earth these posts/ramps were modified this way.
Shouldn't need the washers between the star post and t-nut. Take em off. I do put them between plastics and nuts sometimes, especially if the holes are enlongated.
Quoted from btw75:Hi - can you guys take a look at this video and comment on whether the fault opening up more than once is normal?
I'm trying to diagnose the VUK not getting the ball up on the first try and Quietmouse suggested this isn't right but couldn't confirm since his ES is down for the moment.
» YouTube video
It's not, responded in your original thread
Quoted from Dommer:has anyone put in colored LEDs on an ES playfield? I've thought about it, but the color scheme is a little random compared to my TZ and pinbot, where it's pretty easy to do colored LEDs in a nice way. was thinking maybe just some warm white bullets from comet pinball.
Yup. Did the inserts with color matched LEDs, and cool white for gi.
Quoted from Dommer:mine actually has cool whites in it, but they are ablaze from pinballlife and am thinking some nice comet domed LEDs would be better.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm
I just used the retros from cointaker. Very happy with them!
Post edited by dsuperbee: My ipad likes to correct!
Quoted from zr11990:Any Idea why my pops wont work on mine. No one, so far, has been able to find a reason for them to not be working.
Need some more information please. Fuses checked and OK? Power at the coils? Transistors been tested and verified good? Switches showing up in switch test? Are they gapped properly?
Quoted from zr11990:Fuses good, no power at coils Transistors good. The coils are just not getting power.
These are all daisy chained for power. Start checking for breaks in the wiring along the power wires. Check your manual for what color wires to look for, and the associated plugs.
Quoted from pinballholder:Yeah, i really should tear down my playfield and clean it. The rubber behind the drop targets need replacing and it looks like everything has to come off to get at them. I just wanna play it though lol.
Earthshaker is a BEAR to shop, especially when removing posts.
I know someone here was looking for one of these:
ebay.com link: Williams Earthshaker Pinball Machine Under Playfield Clean Ramp
Quoted from Andretti:Just wanted to thank Basement Arcades for making the sinking building mod available. I'm new to the pinball community, but as soon as I bought my Earthshaker, I knew I needed to have that mod.
I ordered it the first week of July (before I even had my Earthshaker delivered), and received it about mid-August. I held off installing it for a week or two since I have NO experience working on a pinball machine since I was concerned it might be over my head. After two weeks of staring at it, I broke down and figured I'd give it a shot.
What might have taken most only an hour or two to install took me much closer to four (that by no means is a shot at Basement Arcades, but a statement about my inabilities) with only two places on my body leaking blood as I finished the install. The instructions for installation were excellent and well done. My only problem ended up being the very end...where you screw the mod back into the board from underneath through a mass of wires. The first time I did it, it ended up too close to the opening and wouldn't go up or down without brushing up against the side of the hole. I took it back out and re-spaced it much better in the hole, and then re-screwed it back in. Now it works flawlessly and has made me enjoy the game even more than before.
I realize I got this at pretty much the end of the run of these...but I can't say how much I appreciate getting one. For those after me who want one....I'd just keep looking. I saw the same kit available on ebay for $12 more than I paid for mine not more than two weeks ago....so you never know.
Excellent mod!! Totally worth it.
Andretti
For those who have not installed this mod yet....do yourself a favor and pull the PF. The harness that runs next to where the building goes can leave very little room for slack, and you will save yourself blood and a ton of frustration by doing it with the PF out of the game. Removing it is not that bad.
Also, if you have repro ramps, remember to notch the main ramp!
Quoted from jibmums:Got everything polished/cleaned/fixed, all parts have arrived so the only thing I need to do first is polish the playfield and some minor touchup work. I ordered a Treasure Cove kit and after I try it out on my DE Simpsons first, ES is next.
When I begin reassembly I'll try to keep a list of all the posts as they go back onto the playfield.
Unless your es of has been cleared, or has Mylar on it, the treasure cove kit will destroy the artwork on the of quickly. It isn't designed for non-cc games. It does do a very good job of polishing Mylar!
Quoted from jibmums:That's exactly what I was going to use it on, the mylared areas of my games, although I did want to see if it could clean up a couple of very dirty pf areas that had resisted other cleaning methods (ME & alcohol).
I'm glad you brought this up though. I thought all playfields had at least *some* level of clear on them, even if just a very thin single coat, from the factory. The Treasure Cove video I watched had someone polishing a non-mylared playfield, because he made a point of pointing out the slingshot mylars and how you could barely see the edge of them against the polished playfield. Guess I have a lot of research to do before I use this kit.
On their original page, they specifically mentioned that it should not be used on non cc or non mylared playfields. If a me + alcohol and some elbow grease can remove paint, what do you think a drill and some semi abrasive liquid and pad will do? I wouldn't risk it myself.
Quoted from pacman11:Looking for a friend of mine, does anyone have a used uncracked or unbroken center ramp for an Earthshaker? If so PM... Thanks!
They are repro'd and most places carry it.
Quoted from pacman11:Thanks guys! I told him that but he's too cheap to buy one. I told him I would see if anyone had a nice used one on Pinside they might sell.
The front edges are almost always broken on the main ramp. Tell him to quit being cheap. 
Quoted from Boise_D:I've got a broken post to the left of the pop bumpers for one thing. I just like to take apart (and clean) when I get a new machine.
I'm still searching to find the correct metal post sleeve and screw to support the left side of the gate at zone 5. I'm gate les currently.
Earthshaker is hands down one of the harder games to shop, especially since the pf doesn't slide forward. If you are getting under the main ramp, you might as well do a complete shop, switch those pita bulbs and flashers to LEDs, and clean. It's not an easy task, but can be done with beer and cursing .)
Quoted from jmountjoy111:I have been trying to get a couple of minor issues buttoned up on my Earthshaker. I am having some GI issues. I repinned the interconnect board and the GI plugs but can only get the bottom half to light up. Is there something I might be missing? A hidden fuse or something perhaps.
Check for broken traces on your male connectors on the board. It is very common to pull a trace when replacing the male plugs
Quoted from jmountjoy111:I found it. GI is fixed.
Please post the fix for future reference for people!
Quoted from Boise_D:Help! Bummed about my now-broken EarthShaker. The upper flipper activates automatically, not when the game gets power but right when I go into the settings (the game has no batteries yet). I've replaced the coil, but same result. When activated, it does separate the EOS switch, but the coil stays powered until I shut it off. This started when I was right in the middle of a game, and flippers had been working fine up til then. So, what causes that one flipper coil to activate itself?
The original coil was also not the correct one, but the new one is. When I put in the new coil, (with game shut off), I noticed that the action is not smooth. The fit of the coil against the stops is really tight. Maybe an operator swapped the whole plate at some point, and that's why the correct coil doesn't fit? I know I'll have to figure out the mechanical problem, even if I have to buy a new plate assembly. I'm mostly stumped by the electrical. Original coil fl-11753. I replaced with fl-11722
Ideas?
either the switch next to the flipper button is stuck closed, or the driver and/or pre driver transistor is shorted on.
Quoted from Jeroen:With replacing the pops I see many different set ups on photos around here.
Aside from the original set up seen on the flyer there are also people mixing them up.
Who has something different Then the original and why?
I went with color matched skirts instead of white.
Because I wanted to, and white gets dirty too quickly in a pinball.
Quoted from Jeroen:What I meant was did you reposition the yellow red and blue pop different from the original as seen on the flyer?
I also went for the color matched skirts. And transparent color matched bodies aswell
I got my game in pieces, with the game stripped down to posts. I followed what Chris H did for a HEP restore.
Quoted from Jeroen:Is someone here the proud owner of a t-nut schematics for this great game? Am at a loss for what size t-nut goes where on the backside. Didnt make any notes of this cause I tought it would be an easy re-install. NOT hahaha
any help welcome, might aswell be a simple list of what size goes on which playfield side part...
thanks
I can check when I get home, but if memory serves they are almost all 6-32, with the exception of a handful.
Quoted from jibmums:I'd like to replace the decals on my drop targets and since I'm already ordering a few things from Planetary, figured I'd get them there. My original drop decals have an odd "pebbly" finish instead of the smooth mylared finish I'm used to. I'd like to keep this the same, has anyone used the decals from Planetary? Are they pebbly instead of smooth?
Smooth, since they are not printed directly onto the drop target.
Quoted from Jeroen:Exactly.... its that handfull of others that interest me... thanks anyway for checking..
Sorry! I got side tracked with my son (he popped his first 2 teeth) and he has been miserable all weekend. Will check it out today!
Quoted from Boise_D:Hi all,
I'd like take my ES apart for cleaning and possibly replace a ramp or two. How do I even begin to take this sucker apart? Especially the left and middle ramps. Thanks for any advice.
Before you even start, make sure you understand (and plan for) breaking t nuts and the posts because of loctite. You can either use a soldering iron to heat up from below and then gently twist the post, or say f-it, and buy new posts and t nuts, then dremel off the top.
To completely shop the game, it is probably easiest to pull the pf. You do have to completely remove ALL the stuff in the back to get the main ramp out,many trust me it is a bitch n a half to do that without pulling the pf.
Quoted from Jeroen:Exactly.... its that handfull of others that interest me... thanks anyway for checking..
Ok, I double checked and they all appear to be 6-32.
Quoted from jsyjay:Earthshaker repo playfield coming from CPR, confirmed by PPS
I will believe it when I see it on the website. They had all the work done to start making them a while back, then PPS pulled the project from them for some reason.
I will be interested though! (Especially if it would cost less than having my 2nd PF restored.)
Quoted from nvu4prod:Seems to be a more common problem then I thought. I've searched the online vendors and have found that the NOS/Repo post is unobtainable. May have to augment with something close when the time comes. Have the ramps, just hoping for PPS to release the rights for the playfield to be reproduced to warrant the swap and associated parts!
Use the smaller version, it is a close match.
Quoted from nvu4prod:Thanks dsuperbee for your response. Can you point me in the right direction as to what post, as in smaller version you used? Part number and vendor would be great! Thanks!!
This one is a 1 3/16", so it should be pretty close:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4433
This one is a 1" post. Could work if you don't mind the groove:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4434
Measure from the PF to the top of the standup target bracket, and get as close as possible to that. The post should not be taller than it (As shown in the picture)
Quoted from pindevil:Finally, CPR has listed the ES playfield for preorder! Just put my name in for one.
As did I
Quoted from alec_p:What flipper solenoid do you guys have for the upper left? Mine is the same as the lower flippers (11630), but the manual says it should be 11722. From what I can see online, that's a lower power solenoid than 11630. Before I took it all apart, I had some trouble making it up the fault ramp on occasion. So it doesn't make sense to me to put a lower power solenoid in there.
Any thoughts?
Always use the proper coil, unless you like breaking plastics and ramp entrances. That ramp is a tough shot, but a stronger coil won't fix that.
Quoted from gutz:I am still looking for the lower right wireform!
Might want to find a local custom welder to help. Mine is in similar shape and have been keeping an eye out for a few years now. I think I may have found a local guy who does custom chopper work who can do it for a decent price.
Quoted from Chosen_S:I just posted it for reference Not necessarily as a tutorial... the pictures give enough of a starting point for the hard core DIYer, besides, the kits go for around $250-400, looks like $45 in parts should get this made
To be fair the kits are incredibly high quality, and not made from what appears to be scrap metal and a gear from a kid toy.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I have no doubt about the quality, and the dude who makes them absolutely deserves to make some money on his work, but $300 is a LOT of money and a gouge! None of those materials are rare or expensive.
For the same money (or less), you could buy:
All 3 ramps brand new.
A full plastics kit AND protection kit AND a full LED bulb kit.
A Pinscore/Xpin LED display AND a new translight.
A full cabinet decal set AND new legs, levelers and bolts.
(I could do this all day)
Hell, the knucklehead who's selling them on ebay could at LEAST toss in free PM shipping... But he's even overcharging for that! If that greedy dude would include PM shipping for the $300, i'd probably buy one... but until then, I will absolutely never buy one, just on principal.
Never said it was cheap, and the quality costs money. Y'all act like his time to design and build them is worth 0 dollars.
Your comparison on what other things cost is pointless. Pinball is freakin expensive, but just for giggles:
Ramp set: 303.00. You are incorrect
Plastics: 166 (Marco), protectors (pinbits and Cliffy) 115.00, led kit (premium kit, coitaker) 221. You are incorrect
LED display (big daddy) 150.00 new backglass (sold out) 249.99. You are incorrect.
I could do this all day.
Quoted from Syco54645:Why are you so angry? The fact is that for what the mod does it is incredibly expensive. A motor that works in this costs less than $20 shipped. Sure their time is valuable but they probably made up all of their R&D time after selling 3 kits. The time to assemble this would be less than an hour. The rest of the parts for this maybe brings the total cost of the mod to $100 if they are over paying for all of the parts. So then in that case they make $200 an hour.
Who is angry? Not I. I just don't think some folks understand how expensive some of this is. For the most part all mods are expensive. Color dmd is 400 bucks, a wobble head for dr who is 300+. Have you even looked at what is included in the original kit? It is much more than a motor, and is pretty much plug n play. (Which for a lot of people here is great, since they cannot even use a soldering iron)
It is your money, spend how you want, but I don't consider the kit overpriced. It is cheaper than a lot of the stuff listed, yet nobody minds dropping 300+ for ramps, 115 for protectors, etc...
Quoted from Syco54645:Yes I have looked at the kit and even the instructions. Sure it is plug and play but still expensive for what you get.
Just like every single mod. Like I said, pinball is expensive. The kit has stainless steel and aluminum (neither are cheap), have to be machined and assembled by hand. Wire harness has to be built, etc..it's obviously not being cranked out by some factory somewhere, and it is built to last in an industrial machine.
I don't make them, I have no vested interest in them, but I get that quality costs money, and I am nothing but extremely happy with mine, and it was worth what I paid.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:You could misquote me all day? Yes, I'll bet you could! However I will concede the whopping $3 mentioned in your only accurate quote.
Is the guy who makes that kit your daddy or something? Grow up and chill the hell out man... Geeez.
All the prices I quoted were correct, and I did not misquote. Try some reading comprehension.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Right, I say "translight" and you quote "backglass", I say "Pinscore/Xpin" and you quote Rottendog.. And I'M the one who cant read??! And I never mentioned Cliffy's, or anything about cointaker LED's either.
Dude, do us all a favor and take your hyper-sensitive, uber-defensive BS and go save the world in another forum, These threads are BY DESIGN used for free expression of thoughts, idea's and opinions... And YOU are the cancer to freedom of speech. But since you insist on obsessively and repeatedly making an ass of yourself, and obviously proving that you dont know shit about pinball machines since you dont even know the difference between a backglass and a translight... You now hold the esteemed honor of being the very FIRST Pinside member that I have added to my ignore list.
Sweet. Do I get an award? Thank you for reminding me why I decided to not send you the WW plastics your were looking for.
Quoted from Boise_D:Hi all,
Looking for advice. What's the best way to access the top left skill shot ramp? I'd like to get the left ramp off too.
You pretty much have to remove the entire back part of the pf. The fault has to come out, the plastics around it, etc..
Quoted from Boise_D:Thanks, that's what I suspected. I need to get the middle and left ramp off for some repairs. Looks like I'll have a good excuse to use the rotisserie I made.
It's a good time to do leds too, especially for the flashers back there.
Quoted from JAmods:thanks for helping
for 3 ball, after collecting needed zones, go to the fault. 1 locked, 2nd ball hit only the right ramp. releases both locked after 3rd ball hits any switch
doing above on mine, first ball locks but only until the 2nd ball hits any switch, then the first ball is released through bottom popper. On mine while 2 balls are in play, lock lamp is still lit on right ramp but ejects ball right away from bottom ball popper. the bottom popper is always firing(every 3-4 seconds) when the 2 balls are in play
manual says 2 ball quick-multi is zone 5 lock only.
The switch test doesn't report a problem. I do have broken ground prong but that shouldnt cause this.
It's your bottom popper switch. It's flakey and or on its way out or isnt adjuated right. The constant popping is a giveaway.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Back in the club. Want to add some light to back half of pf. Any ideas? Led strips on back wall? Spots? Light show on pin is incredible Just trying to add more light when playing
I added a few bulbs under the spiral skillshot ramp, and one under the main ramp. This was before LED strips were available, and it does add some nice extra lighting
Quoted from billsfanmd:Thx. Torn between which clear bulb to use on GI. Soft or warm.
In general, I like cool white under blue, green, and black plastics. Under reds, yellows, oranges, I like warm white. It's all personal. On my whirlwind I used all cool white, except under the slings and ball guide plastics. Those got warm white.
Quoted from Gungaladunga:First ball lock ... California / Nevada ramp ... open/close/open/close/open/close and ball does not lock. Is there a way to trouble shoot this? It is just supposed to open and lock the first ball.
Brand new to forum and looking for help.
Common issue. The black part shown in the pic has a tendency to wear and eventually not work. However, the spring used to give it tension may have been replaced at one point, so you don't have the appropriate tension on it.
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Sacramento, CA