Earthshaker
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Boom! Joining the club with a slight project, fully working game, but this shaker needs love. So excited to join you fellas!
Oh yeah, I have no back glass, which sux terribly. I know there's none out there, sadly I'm going the translite route, wish my photoshop skills luck
Who has the best instruction cards?
I'd like to order rubber from Titan, does anyone have a list of sizes that are used all around? Or maybe the map that marco sends out with their rubber kit?
Quoted from Rock914:These guys have the plastics you need. http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/slingshot-plastics-for-earthshaker-p-2509.html?language=english
Thanks bud, but the fine print says Sold Out
A kind soul here has asked for a nice price for his, and I gave it... Thank you !
Quoted from cooked71:I may have some. Only problem will be postage from Australia (though won't be to big a parcel). I'll check it out tomorrow and let you know.
Thanks bud....
I found 2 sets, thank you !
Quoted from shacklersrevenge:I think it looks great! much better than nothing there, in fact, I would be interested in one just to have as a spare..
It really is just a place holder until I can find a good backglass. The quality is only fair, but better than nothing 
From 5 feet away it looks good, but upclose not so much
Quoted from Boise_D:How do you have one made?
take a file to a print shop
The right materials havnt really crossed my path though, but my file is getting better with time
Posted for reference
http://www.instructables.com/id/Earthshaker-Sinking-Institute/?ALLSTEPS
Quoted from Syco54645:That really does not help show how to make it.
I just posted it for reference Not necessarily as a tutorial... the pictures give enough of a starting point for the hard core DIYer, besides, the kits go for around $250-400, looks like $45 in parts should get this made
Quoted from dsuperbee:To be fair the kits are incredibly high quality, and not made from what appears to be scrap metal and a gear from a kid toy.
Totally fair, I've thought of buying the mod many times, I think that the motor the instructible is using may possibly be the same motor that moves the diverter in space station and used in many other pins as a slow moving 12v motor.
I bet the gear could be used from Lego if someone were so bold
Too bad no one has made all the parts in 3d so we could have them printed and put together a kit, it would at least cut the full price in half
Quoted from Syco54645:Yes I found a motor that will work fine. It was I think $12. I have not spent time looking into how to make it though I'd like to. If I did figure it out I would try to document how it was done.
which motor did you get?
I bet the mod is priced right at around $250 now that a lot have been made. Maybe $300 shipped is fine, I'm not complaining about the cost either, but some mods make me laugh when there are more than one road to accomplish the same thing.
The original design or whatever is made of stainless steel and routed aluminum, ok. maybe 3d printing was not available yet, but now 3d printing is boss. And makes making this mod out of metal overkill. It's a simple machine under the pf, as long as it works and will last and looks good. I'm ok with exploring an updated alternative.
The originators deserve to be paid what is due for the plug and play feature
But I am a modder, and I choose to modify and redesign and tool in a classy way. So if I figure out a new way to make this happen in a cheaper way, I'll share. And the guy selling the metal one will still sell his peace
Quoted from randypinman:Just got my Earthshaker playfield looking brand new with an overlay. Now looks better than brand new. This playfield always takes a beating, and I got tired of it looking worn out, and especially discolored.
Got Pics?
Quoted from joey__p__1966:I'm praying that someone will PM me with a ZONE 1 plastic to sell. I tried to find one last year when I finished the refurb with no luck, gonna ask again. Its the only piece I still need to complete this game. I have a crappy inkjet printed one in there that doesn't look good. Anyone wanna sell one to me ? Please ? see pic of what i need. Thanks
JP
I think I shelled out $$ for that plastic about a year ago or longer, good luck man . If I see another I'll pm you
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:I bought that one but after I take what I need I'll have one to sell.
I'm your huckleberry
Quoted from dudah:What's the interest like for a sinking building mod? They seem to pop up here and there for around $300.
When I owned mine I reverse engineered how it worked and have it all documented. Even made a model to 3D print but sold my game before I did. I could possibly do a run of these if there's enough interest. Certainly at a much lower cost, also!
I'm in for one possibly... I was going to build one from legos, I bought a motor so far, but your solution may be just the ticket
Fossmin, that is a beauty!
I went another route... I bought an overlay (I know... blasphemy, I'm disgusted with myself, but it was dirt cheap going this route). I bought a badly trashed and damaged playfield and sanded it down and spent weeks repairing the water damage. I clear coated it and then laid the overlay on it, then clear coated it again, waited a week and sanded and buffed it, a few days later and here we go...
I just started the swap.
IMG_4122 (resized).JPG
IMG_4123 (resized).JPG
And... on the overlay the colors are slightly darker than original which is driving me mad.... maybe I'll restore this machine and sell it to buy an original beauty, or maybe I'll get over it and just enjoy my game
Quoted from wizard_mode:Looks awesome, what clearcoat process did you use?
Quoted from TheOnlyest:You've done a phenomenal job on that! My compliments!!
Thank you very much,
I use the 2 part automotive clear, this is my 7th playfield to clear, I'm getting faster and learning the tolerances pretty well... vid1900s guide has helped a lot.
Hammering the inserts back in to the playfield and sanding them flat was the hardest part, I glued them back down, so I sure hope they don't raise again in the future. Using 220 grit sanding on the top of the playfield was sure disturbing
Quoted from TheOnlyest:It is completely unnecessary, I left it out when I restored my game. Apparently whoever shopped your game last also discovered that it is a pointless and useless piece. Throw it in your coin box and forget about it.
Lol, maybe williams considered it a post retainer???, I definitely see your point. To the coin box it goes. Thank you
My progress this weekend removing parts...
Before and after
Does anyone have any teardown and rebuild pics sets?
I need to see all of the rubber configuration, and various reference pics, thank you guys!
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:I'm sending my boards out to have them redone, I'll just have to replace the connectors. Can you link or PM me a good place to get those?
Any ideas on the Drop Target power issue?
Digikey has the connector housings, and the trifurcon pins
Quoted from jibmums:Here's a pic of mine during teardown. Your before pic looks wrong, after pic looks right, but you're missing a 5/16" rubber on the double-star post with the blue rubber at the bottom of your pic.
Thank you!
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:Can someone please post a picture of their Flippers both fully fired? I just did a rebuild on my left flipper because it was giving me issues, and now it doesn't appear to go nearly far enough up. It makes no sense because the plunger is hitting the stop as it should and everything is very smooth. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:Thanks for that, can you please post a top view, as far as how far your flippers fire up? Maybe they were just firing way too far up previously.
These were just freshly rebuilt
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:I'm totally dumbfounded... Neither of mine fire that far.
Post pics of them down, and of the under side, up and down
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I think perhaps you ordered the wrong parts, you realize that Earthshaker is not a WPC game right? Its a System 11B.
This is the kit you need... http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLKIT
I don't like the system 11 kits, I get the wpc ones for all my system 11 games, they've always worked great and the Spring action is nicer imo
I put LED's in the playfield, they work great
But the ones I put in the pop bumpers are very very faint, ... anyone else had a connector issue causing this?
Edit: I've been experimenting with the LED's in the pop bumpers, the cables from them have a diode inline, when I bypass the diode some of the other playfield LED's ghost, but the other pop bumper LED's act fine...
1. I'm sure there's proper protocol for having LED's in the pops, can someone please enlighten me
2. Some of the led flashers Flash with the flippers, what do I do here??
Thanks guys!
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:I'm am glad after the almost 2 months I've had to FINALLY be able to post a positive post. I bought Earthshaker in early February and knew it was going to be a project. My initial investment was $700. It had a bunch of board issues and I'm assuming all original parts from when it was made by the shape of them. I started out by sending the boards out to be rebuilt. That fixed all of my lighting issues (half of the backglass, some of the playfield, and half of the jackpot values didn't light up). After that I had to do a flipper rebuild as my left flipper was very weak and also a Pop Bumper Rebuild (my lord is that a task lol). While doing that I also ordered LEDs for playfield and pop bumpers, the LED display, a rubber kit, and a replacement post for between the flippers. I'm glad to report that after all of that the machine is flying! I'll say it was a much easier game with rubbers from 1989 and slower flippers! Haha
Awesome looking! Great work!
Your pop bumper caps; blue and orange need to be swapped
It took a lot of research to determine the correct color sequence of the pop bumper caps.
Sorry to bear the bad news
I just finished mine also... new playfield overlay with clear coat on top and bottom of playfield and inbetween overlay and playfield
New decals
New legs
Pinballlife leg cab protectors
New pop bumper parts
LED's
Everything polished to near mirror shine
Cleaned wire harnesses
Fresh paint inside and outside cab
Translite (still looking for a nice bg)
New flippers/rebuild all 3
Titan rubber
New sling plastic, zone 1, zone 5, lit windows plastic
Plastic protectors
New spin ramp plastics
Cliffys on ramps and shelter
New zone 4 switch
New plastic posts
New spinner decals
Pop bumper LED's
Clear color matched pop bumper bodies
Clear yellow flipper buttons
Rebuilt power supply
Reflowed every pin on every board
Replaced gi pins on aux board
Replaced gi connector and new pins
Probably more done, wish I could have found a better restored or nos playfield, I think I have about 130 hours in this one.
It's been a long time coming
Thanks for the help you guys provided!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Fantastic job on that bro!! But if I look at the pics again and see those green flipper rubbers, I may lose my shit... Profoundly and astoundingly hidious.
Thanks!
Oh man! I thought the green flowed nicely... so I'm guessing the consensus is red
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Yellow bats and red rubber... Consistent with the lane guide plastics colors = Flow.
Gorgeous kitchen too by the way, perhaps the stainless appliances (against the grey cabinets) should be replaced with bisque? lol
Lol, stop it
My reasoning for the green rubber, was to tie in the upper left area of the playfield to the bottom, and when I play pinball it helps my eyes if the flipper rubber contrast completely against its surroundings .
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:Siiiick... I wish I had the time to restore the playfield! Yours is 10/10!!
Thank you sir, it's a labor of love. And forcing myself to spend a minimum of 30 minutes a day on it, and much longer per day if needed or allowed.
Quoted from lapean111:Is that a CPR backglass?
No, it's a translite I made, it looks great until I light it up, well, it looks fine.
I'd like a nice one
Quoted from lapean111:Great work on the translite. Just didn't look quite the same to me as ones I have seen. A translite is better then nothing for sure. Good luck on your hunt for a glass!
Thanks! It had girls in bikinis poster for the backglass when I got it, the wife laughed and said get it out , it was a fun day
Quoted from DatNoobAdam:Had 636k after 2 balls... Then caught fire haha
Word! Looks like the kid wants a turn, lol
Quoted from Gungaladunga:First ball lock ... California / Nevada ramp ... open/close/open/close/open/close and ball does not lock. Is there a way to trouble shoot this? It is just supposed to open and lock the first ball.
Brand new to forum and looking for help.
Make me think the switch on The mechanism that moves the fault line is not working
The black switch on the mech in this pic
Quoted from RCA1:Not mine, but here's one off the intertubes that looks pretty good.
» Vimeo video
We want to see the mechanism that does the sinking, we know what it looks like when it's lowering and raising
Quoted from Golferron54:Read all 540 posts, and only found one reference for an ES topper that is no longer being made. Is everyone else toppless?
Love to see what others use as ES toppers.
Also, any suggestions on ES apron cards? Found a great design but the download link is dead. Please post your high res favorites for download.
Many Thanks!
ron
I don’t have a pic, but I have a large shop fan attached to the ceiling right above mine that blows on me while I play, eat that whirlwind!
Quoted from lefflerkf:We just purchased an ES this past weekend. The ball seems to go air bound a lot and gets stuck in various places. Is this normal or has this machine been modified in some way? We are pinball newbies so don't know a lot about the mechanics of any machine.
Epic first post. Maybe post some detailed pics of what the ball bounces off of when it goes airborn
Quoted from TomDK:No one ?!
No one has made the housing design public, I was going to build one out of Lego, and share the process. But I have had no time
can anyone tell me what size the really large rubbers are that go on the right side under the HOLLY LAND plastic?
Quoted from Scoot:Hey I am finally a proud owner of an Earthshaker! This may be embarrassing but I have always thought when you lock a ball and the cabinet shakes, the voice yells out "Donkey Kong!". My girlfriend thinks it says "Earthshaker". How the hell does earthshaker sound like donkey kong??? Do I have a mental block or something? What is actually being said?
Scoot.
[quoted image]
“EARTHSHAKER!!!”
Quoted from russdx:With comet warm white frosted leds installed[quoted image][quoted image]
Warm whites all the way... beautiful
Quoted from Jeroen:I'm seriously thinking about sunlight whites. I know the warm whites comes as close as possible to the incandescents. Still I would like a little more brightness without going all the way with the cool whites.
That might be nice
. For me, if I make it too bright, The reflection of the back box on the glass becomes too much
Quoted from Jeroen:Hi all...
I have huge difficulties finding replacement parts as shown in the pic. All metal posts shown broke off their threads so I'm missing all posts circled in red. Is there someone who knows what the part numbers are and maybe even where to get 'em. Can't seem to locate a vendor.
If anyone knows or is willing to order for me with full expenses paid please shoot me a PM.[quoted image]
Sometimes electronic stores have pcb standoff posts, also hardware stores have them sometimes, the bolt holes or lugs may be different sizes than the originals
Quoted from schwism:Need some help on my ES.
See the picture. I’m pretty certain the rubber rings should go across the space where the habitrail is located. If this is true shouldn’t the post on the left be a double ring post? Behind the habitrail is a screw. Should there be a double ring post there too?
Thanks for any guidance anyone can give.[quoted image]
I just dealt with this yesterday, lol
Use 4” rubber
Yes double ring post directly behind habitrail
68384585-7E8F-47E4-86D2-25076CBF4F71 (resized).jpegB7D5422A-051F-428D-9941-47B9298ACCFA (resized).jpeg
Quoted from squad8:I put my own together from Comet.[quoted image]
Which backglass do you have? Those colors look amazing
Quoted from schwism:Thanks for the pictures. Can’t quite figure out the screw I have. Seems like if a post were on there it would block the hole.
I think that screw is an error. The screw you’re looking for is (looking at your photo) is to the left behind the vuk wireform
Quoted from squad8:I am fairly sure it is the original factory backglass. The game has very little fade.
It’s the best lit , best color I’ve ever seen in photos, thank you for replying
Quoted from GAP:A lady in Chicago sold me these Earthshaker backglasses. The line art is black and the rest is see through with red highlighted areas and some mirrored areas. She had them for 30 years. I assume they are test prints. Just wanted to share.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Bitchin!
Wanna sell one? Pm me if so, I love history like this
Quoted from Meri-cah:Thanks. Placed an order with Comet bulbs that should be in later this week.
Question/Problem for the group: sometimes when a ball drains the machine doesn’t recognize it. I’ve adjusted all switches and checked all wires. I’m guessing at this point it’s a switch malfunction and just need to replace the ones in the trough.
On the right path? Tough since it’s intermittent
I had this same issue on my ttr, it’s time to replace the switch and diode that is giving you the issue, I know it’s intermittent, but it’s time.
Quoted from pinfarmer:Does anyone have a source for the coil bracket on the front VUK? Mine has the incorrect one and a zip tie leaving the coil at a slight angle.
Last time i saw that issue, I had a friend make me a new one, they are not produced anywhere
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Shepherdsville, KY