We live in hope

Does anyone have a lower right wireform? (that feeds the right inlane from the upkicker) Mine has several broken welds and was already poorly repaired.

I'm trying to figure out what LED's to get (don't want a kit) - do I need to get non-ghosting for everything but the GI lights? (and are the backbox lights considered GI too? - so regular LED's are ok there too?)

For playfield GI I am thinking frosted warm white - I don't really like the blue/cool white LED coloring (or colors). What about backglass - non frosted would be best, right?

Is the general consensus to go to match the insert color for the insert lights? Or stick with white? I'm thinking non-ghosting LEDs would be critical here, and probably non-frosted would be best. Right?

If there is some sort of tutorial that discusses this stuff, feel free to pass it on.

Let me know if these questions aren't appropriate here (if so - sorry!)

Short answer: You need to figure out for yourself what you like best.

I have frosted LED's in my ES. I color matched the inserts and went mostly warm white in the backbox, except red behind the red section of the large text, and the few blinkers. I left the playfield GI as incandescent since I like that look best. I am not using non-ghosting, since I haven't seen any ghosting. Mine are all (I think) the cheap ones from Pinball Life. Your mileage may vary. Everyone has different tastes.

I own a Earthshaker system 11B 1989. I have a couple of questions.

I want to reduce the display voltage from 100v to 91v by changing the 2 zener diodes on the p.s.u board. The problem I have is getting the 1N4763A Zener diodes unless I order from outside the U/K.
I can get - 1N5377BG,DIODE, ZENER, 91V, 5W, from ebay will these be ok, or can anyone pass me any info. on where I can get the 1N4763A in the U/K.

Another question, with the pinballs age are there any specific capacitors I need to change.

Thanks to BadBrad97 and sorry for late reply I purchased the pink cady,

I just recently took advantage of the comet LED sale for my ES. I recommend frosted warm white, I didn't need any non ghosting in mine, and color match red inserts. You might change a few after that based on your preferences. I think I used cool white in the backbox.

I just finished mine, did a playfield pull out, strip down - repaint wear areas, automotive clear coat and rebuild with new spiral ramp.
The GI ,I did with cool white ,its a preference though, looks awesome. (Compare it to my TZ sitting beside it. The TZ is bone stock .)
I like the cool white , as it is bright and modern looking. Besides my Whirlwind beside it is done the same way, I bought it that way, they needed to look the same. Bottom pic is when GI cycled off in attract mode to get a pic of only inserts.
The inserts , I use coin taker premium frosted non ghosting. Here is what I used where:
Blue insert got Blue LED
Red Insert got Red LED
clear insert got (cool ) white LED
Yellow insert got warm white LED
Dark Yellow insert got warm white LED
Green insert got Green LED
Dark Orange insert got Orange LED's ,I ordered extra of each color, and played around with some oranges and red. Buy a couple of extra reds , I used them in the SPECIAL, SHOOT AGAIN, and JACKPOT , 6X LIGHT SPEC , Zone 9, and maybe the inlanes if I remember correctly.
I have my order handy I placed with CT, it you want me to post it up and use it as a guide, it has extras figured in though.
I attached some pics, certainly a game that looks good well lit, and it's a keeper in my collection.
JP

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How did you get the playfield out to work on it?

I just unhooked all of the edge connectors from the boards ( label them ) and pulled it up and out , with help from my wife, and put it in my clearcoat jig. Its not hard, just have a place to support it before you pull it out. I built a rotisserie just after i finished my ES to do my Space Station, I highly recommend that method .
JP

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If anyone is thinking of selling their game and they are in the nj area, I'd be interested in buying.

Picked up my ES awhile ago... After installing a burnt out bulb, I noticed at the entrance to the middle ramp, I'm missing the post just passed the number 4 zone stand up target. Cliffy's were installed previous to my purchase and never noticed the post missing. Any one out there that can point me in the right direction, as to what post I need would be much appreciated! I've looked at my ES manual and can't find what post would be correct.

Thanks in advance!!

Nick

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Thanks Jibmums, your picture shows the answer to my question. Thanks for taking the time to post!

Nick

That particular post seems to be broken off on lots of ES games. I know it is missing on mine, and broken off on my replacement PF as well.

Just picked a nice original ES, mylar day one which looks good.Need cabinet decals ? Are Next Gen the best out there ? Also want to replace all ramps when I do full shop job, looking for Best Ramps on the market ?

Thanks

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New high score for me , owned the game since 1996 ish. Shopped over the fall, plays smooth as butter .
JP

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Seems to be a more common problem then I thought. I've searched the online vendors and have found that the NOS/Repo post is unobtainable. May have to augment with something close when the time comes. Have the ramps, just hoping for PPS to release the rights for the playfield to be reproduced to warrant the swap and associated parts!

Use the smaller version, it is a close match.

Thanks dsuperbee for your response. Can you point me in the right direction as to what post, as in smaller version you used? Part number and vendor would be great! Thanks!!

This one is a 1 3/16", so it should be pretty close:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4433

This one is a 1" post. Could work if you don't mind the groove:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4434

Measure from the PF to the top of the standup target bracket, and get as close as possible to that. The post should not be taller than it (As shown in the picture)

Perfect! thanks dsuperbee!!

Finally, CPR has listed the ES playfield for preorder! Just put my name in for one.

As did I

New owner here. I need to find a backglass, new or reproduction. Does anyone have any leads?

I'm crossing my fingers CPR reruns the backglass when they do the playfield.

I know someone on here printed one out that didn't look terrible.

Can you shoot me info please?

thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/checking-interest-would-you-buy-a-cpr-earthshaker-backglass#post-3000873

checking interest for backglass reproduction run

Just curious - how many ES members do we have here?

I'm one!

328 list them in their collections

FYI I'll be putting mine up for sale this weekend if anyone is interested. Full led, sinking institute, new xpin displays, new cpu/driver board

Wish you were closer. Sounds nice

Ok so the plastic on the right hand side has the light dome and the sign attached to it, probably done with a machine.
I have my nice new set of CPR plastics and want to attach them the same way, if possible.

Does anyone know or can suggest how to attach them the same way?
I thought bifurucated rivets might work, but they are not as neat as the originals.

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I have the same problem, my ES plastics arrived last night and I realize it when I opened the bag. I did find a link on line with directions on how to install these and where to buy the parts and tools.

You can find the information at this link:

http://home.earthlink.net/~billg4me/pinball/rivet/

With that said, Does anyone in the metro area in Michigan have the tools to do this? I would rather pay someone local to do mine then order all the parts for a couple of plastics. EM me if you have the tools and are interested in doing this work, I will pay you for your time.

Thanks !

Here is a thread i started a few months ago about using split rivets, no special tool needed, looks original, and have had no issues with at all. Hope it helps , Joey
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/found-new-type-rivet-to-install-flash-lamp-covers-to-plastics#post-2830314

I tried the same as what JP did - the rivets I got were too long and were made of stainless so they were too tough to be cut.

I think I need to use a press/clincher as well.

Well I am in the club now. Down for a new CPR pf at the very least. Probably will redecal the cab as well.

Please let me know as to where to get the decals from. I'm searching a lot but finding is the problem...

PPS has them:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-753&Product_Code=PPA-ES-PROD-CABSETNG

isnt the original cab a stencil or silkscreen job?

Mine is a decal.

Original is silk screened.

pretty sure mine is silkscreen also.

Would be nice if someone could make a stencil kit. The design is not too tough so i would think stencil would look good.

Mine is screened as well just faded to hell.

What flipper solenoid do you guys have for the upper left? Mine is the same as the lower flippers (11630), but the manual says it should be 11722. From what I can see online, that's a lower power solenoid than 11630. Before I took it all apart, I had some trouble making it up the fault ramp on occasion. So it doesn't make sense to me to put a lower power solenoid in there.

Any thoughts?

Always use the proper coil, unless you like breaking plastics and ramp entrances. That ramp is a tough shot, but a stronger coil won't fix that.

Yep I was planning to go back to stock but wanted to ask around first. Thanks for the advice. I do not like breaking plastics and ramp entrances.

The manual is not always correct so it is hard to say what coil is correct. Asking here and seeing what people are using is generally the best you can do.

Hit the flipper button harder and you will make it up the ramp. You should hit the flipper button so hard that the machine moves to the side and gives you at least one danger. If the shot still does not go up the ramp, then you might want to adjust your flipper angle. Set the angle so that the shot hits the ramp squarely (without scrubbing the entrance at all) every time. You can do this easily with a protractor. Hope this helps...

I am still looking for the lower right wireform!