Wrong one ... looking for Quakezone..
With the interactive flashers

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Sorry, never saw that before. Looks cool.

I am looking for this too!

New Earthshaker Mod.....coming soon!

Anyone have a set of ramp cliffys not in use? Looking to purchase as my ramp entries are broke to hell and back.

Here you go. This is unlocked

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Not sure if anyone is into making game cards, however if so, I would like to contribute several graphics I've been working on.
These are PNG Files with alpha channel. If they don't come through the forum here, I can email you them.
I need some amazing cards for the apron!

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Never know what you will find when looking at the Earthshaker Manual.

This is an obvious reference to the Hurricane pinball, as it mentioned "Ferris Wheel Motor". In the Earthquake pin, there isn't one.

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There are many (small) errors throughout a fair number of the Williams manuals. Most of these are copy/paste style errors.

Probably Cyclone rather than Hurricane. Cyclone is early System 11B and built before Earthshaker. Hurricane is a WPC and built after Earthshaker.

Just when I thought I was done, I'm finding that I'm missing a piece.
Does anyone know what the chromed protector in the shooter lane (protects from the ball kickout) is called? Anyone know where I might find one?

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Shooter lane protector...

Pinball life should have them

Does anyone know if the Stern protector, (what Pinball life has) is the same size as the one for ES?

I ordered that piece and it looks like it will match ...

Is anyone using a PinSound System with their Earthshaker? A year ago they were working on a System 11A and System 11B system.

However currently I don't see Earthshaker on their supported list.

Thoughts? Thank you.

Yes, exactly. Thank you for the catch. I am going through the manual finding all sorts of errors.. surprises me to some extent

Hello Earthshaker Land,
some sincere help please....

Here is my story. Just completed restoring an Earthshaker pin, and replaced, upgraded many things. New CPU board, New Power Board, New Aux Power Board and New Interconnect Board. New leds, new flipper mechs, new ramps, etc etc.

Even installed the Earthquake Institute moving building mod.

Problems
* On power up there is a loud "whine" noise for a few seconds
* On power up, I blow the F1 Fuse on the Aux Power Board
* The Earthquake Institute building (which used to move several times at start) doesn't do anything now.
* So even though the board is just hours old, somehow I must have blown Q9 on the large cpu board, it's testing shorted......

In test mode:
* the "Jackpost / Sun" flasher doesn't work (blubs are good) (no voltage at the socket)
* the (2) Relay Boards located under the playfield, which work (previously) for the upper / lower GI test, don't do anything now.

Maybe I am super tired, however I can determine what Fuse F1 controls specifically.

I know it's hard to help someone which limited specific information. I am very use to working on machines, however this has me stumped.
Lastly, I have triple checked, and all the wire connections are in the right locations, no thanks to the information in the back of the manual, which has multiple mistakes.

Ideas? thoughts? Suggestions? Thank you very much for your kindness....

It looks like it is for your special solenoids 17, 19, 21 and 22. 17, 19, 21 will be your jet bumpers and 22 is your quake motor. The sun flashers are on fuse 3 which is also 25 volts.

In looking back at some previous posts, focusing my attention currently to the up GI Relay. It's my understanding the (2) playfield relays are suppose to cycle the power on and off during the GI testing. They don't. Also downloaded some photos of the highlighting the connectors 11 and 12 on the Interconnect Board. The Manual is very confusing. Will make sure the proper color coded wires and in the right spots.

Does anyone know the transistors used for the Q9 location on the CPU board? I will be pulling the board out to replace that.

I ordered the stern protector. It is smaller than the original one with Earthshaker, but I installed it and it's doing the job. It required adding a new hole for the second screw. Not a big deal, most people would never notice or know. Just sharing for those who are interested. This was the last piece that needed to be installed on my rebuild.

Thanks to everyone who helped over the years, there were many.

some additional information related to my previous post on problems. After removing the Q9 tip 122 Transistor which was bad on the CPU board (I dont have a replacement yet), I reinstalled the board and connected everything. Replace the F1 fuse with the proper 2 1/2 amp new one. Leaving the 5-J4 connector off on the Aux Power Board, everything booted up fine, certainly some of the coils aren't going to work with 5-J4 disconnected. However no weird sound on power up, all the flashers and building worked again.

The "Upper GI Lamp test" yielded nothing, which I think Q9 controls. So I am unsure if the relay is bad, or the problem is somewhere else.

You are correct, Q9 switches the upper playfield general illumination relay. You could pull the small board from under payfield and run an ohms test across the coil on relay.

Thank you so very much. I just came across a youtube video describing and testing the procedure.
The video also describes testing all the coils for something, for lack of a better description, "shorted" or nearly no resistance at all, which would cook the fuse.

Since Williams moved the diodes FROM being located on the coils to the Aux Power Board, they should all be good as this board is new.

Any thoughts on where to find the which color coded wire goes the the DRIVER pin and the POWER pin? I would assume the Power wire would be consistent between both relays. Certainly the driver wire must be different. Nearly impossible to find specific photo of those two relays good enough to validate the wires to the pins.

EARTHSHAKER Tech Info:
Referencing my previous CPU Board Q9 blown issue.

I miss wired the "Upper GI Relay" crossing the driver (Pin 1) with the 28 volt power - Orange wire. This not only blows the driver transistor but also kills Fuse 1. It's difficult to find proper wiring info the for relays, however after extensive looking through some Earthshaker restoration photos, I confirmed the BROWN drive wire is pin (1), and the ORANGE Power is pin (2), in all three locations in the machine.

Now all the coils associated with that buss function perfect.

* NOTE: if you are using the Rottendog MPU9211 CPU (fantastic engineering by the way) AND you get a weird sound upon power up....it's telling you that there is a shorted transistor somewhere, I promise. Yes the machine will operate, but something isn't working. Removing the bad transistor (fixing the issue causing it to short) and replacement eliminates the whining sound. (I've read this description on multiple blogs, however most people don't address the bad transistor)

* BACKGROUND Buzz in speakers. GROUNDING is vital. Polish until bright ALL board standoff posts, reflow the solder connections, and use new clean screws in all board locations. Also verify the speaker panel and speakers also get grounding wires. You will be impressed how much better it is.

* And if you haven't already done so, replace the power cord plug with a new GROUNDED end. Half the machines at the arcade I work at had bad or missing grounds from where someone has cut or broke them off. I have seen 28 volts floating around of the metal of the machine. Fix that crap!!

For others reading, it is possible to figure it out without the manuals. The power wire is ALWAYS connected to the cathode (banded) end of the solenoid diode. In this case, the solenoid is the relay. These are renderings of the board but should be nearly identical to the OEM board.

• The front image shows the diode orientation and pin numbers on the header.
• The rear image shows the traces that connect the points. All the traces are on the solder side of the board (the OEM board is single sided).

relay_front.jpg
relay_rear.jpg

The red arrow shows the cathode of the diode and the gold arrow shows the pin that the power wire should be connected to. It is pin 1.

Thank you, I have not seen this before..... This is critical stuff!!

Another Tech Note for Rottendog MPU9211 Boards

The (2) Sound Adjustment pots (upper left side of board) actually DO work. However not as you might image. The volume of the music should first be adjusted to your liking with the main volume control in the cabinet. Or if you have an enhanced sound system, balanced between the backbox speakers and subwoofer in cabinet.

THEN go into your SOUND TEST MODE (not music test) and let it run. The (2) Pot Adjustments control the "Sound Effects" and the "Voice Effects". The top pot controls the effects only and if you adjust it too much, your sound effects will go away completely. So you goal is to BALANCE the levels to match each other.
Since you've already adjusted the music to the proper level, things will be MUCH BETTER.

When you start the game, the Speech / Effects will be more in balance with the music level, instead of much louder.

Thanks ... great info .

Would you mind sharing some pictures?

I took lots while taking apart my machine, but could always use more.

QUESTION if I may?

What is the reason or difference between the C-11902-1 Relay (2 located under playfield to control the Upper and Lower GI strings) and the C-11998-1 Relay located in the Backbox for the Backglass Lighting. Operationally they seem to do the same thing. However if you needed to replace the C-11998-1, it literally is twice as expensive. (2) Zero Ohm resistors can't cost that much???

C-11902-1 uses an SPDT (2 form C) relay. Typically either a Potter & Brumfield (now TE Connectivity) or an Omron power relay. It is capable of switch ONE circuit between two throws.

C-11998-1 uses a DPDT (2 form C) relay. Typically also either a Potter & Brumfield (now TE Connectivity) or an Omron power relay but in a "cube" form factor. It is capable of switching TWO circuits between two throws.

If the game designer wants the lower playfield GI strings to be switched separately, it will typically use a C-11902-1 assembly. This requires two separate drive (wires). If the game designer wants the lower playfield GI strings to be treated as a single entity, it will typically use a C-11998-1 assembly. This requires only a single drive wire.

The backbox GI is almost always at least two strings that are controlled together. This means the C-11998-1 assembly is required.

Also note that Williams originally used C-11902-1 in early System 11B machines and subsequently switched to using the C-11998-1 in later System 11B machines. There is no discernable pattern because it really is up to the game designer and software engineer.

You can always use a C-11998-1 in place of a C-11902-1 as it is capable of switching two circuits. When switching only a single circuit, the other pole is not used.

As to the price difference, it is probably due to the cost of the components. Likely the relay as that is obviously the most expensive component on the board.

Thank you fine sir, BEST answer on the entire Internet right there. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you

When I am wrong, I must say I am wrong.
Tech Issue:

Previously posted about the blown transistor causing sound issues on a new Rottendog MPU9211....Nope that's not it....ugh!
Good Morning Chris,

RECAP ISSUE:
All boards in the pin are new, except the sound board.
The game operates with everything working. On power-up, a loud squeal noise is heard for about 2-3 seconds, then goes away.

I have another Rottendog board (different MPU board in different machine) with no issue like this.

IS this normal?
If not, what the heck is the problem??????

Mine still undergoing restore.
Looking for a clear picture of the plug connector for the backboard lights.
And where it plugs into.
Sadly when I got the game these were directly soldered to the interconnect board.
Board was sent for repairs and is repaired better than new.

The backboard has wires going to 2 different connectors on the interconnect board.
J7 has 5 wires, J11 has the one brown wire. Pictures below.

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As an alternative, you could post what you have and someone could figure out what goes where.

Looks like I have one of 2 ..

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That's 2J7.

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The wire colors and order is shown in the red box. Ignore the information in the gray box. This information is incorrect. The BRN/GRN/WHT-BRN/WHT-GRN wires are GI and the RED wire is +25V solenoid / flasher power. This is used by the 24V relay in the backbox to switch the GI strings.

So the picture whwere the wires are attached and I should plug them in as the numbers are in the edited picture ?

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EDITED (resized).jpg

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If you don't have the Earthshaker Manual

You can find it online here
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=753

thanks for your help .....

greatly appreciated !

thanks I do have one ... honestly I suck at reading schematics and according to Dumbass its incorrect !

Don't beat yourself up. Schematics is a skill and an art. Sometimes I can read them right, other times I can't. Takes practice. First try reading / following areas that you know. On the earthshaker, some of the drawings are more wiring diagrams than schematic diagrams.

There are a lot of great people here who are willing to help with no judgement, many of them started with the same challenges (I know I've counted on many people here).

Continued thank you to ALL who share their wisdom and history with this machine. Played the first game tonight after 4-5 months of rebuilding it from parts. Seriously. Decided (as previously mentioned) to invest in some new boards. Rottendog MPU, Aux Power Board and Power Supply Board.

Everything seems to be working. "However"........................

* Issue (1)
When activating the flippers, the flashers on the ramps momentarily blink on (nearly all of them). I know that's not right, however I have no idea where to look for this issue. Side note: All the flashers pass the individual test in diagnostics, each lighting individually only.

* Issue (2)
The Left, Right and Top Jet Bumpers were completely rebuilt, and work great. Earthshaker has a 2 1/2 amp fuse in the back (under) part of the playfield dedicated specifically for the Jets.

I can play 5-6 games, and the jets all work. However at some point, I guess the fuse becomes stressed and fails. Is there an actual PROBLEM? or dare is suggest using a 3 amp fuse??? Normally I wouldn't even consider that as a question.....

Additional information: During the testing of the Jets (each test fine individually) however after 8-10 times, one of the other jets with activate at the same time ONCE. It is the same pair, so that is consistent.

Ok, I hope this is enough info to point someone in the right direction....
Much thanks in advance!!!!!

Using L-3 Rom btw.

Possible solution found related to the flashers and flippers issue.
Known issue with System 11 B & C machines with led flashers:

Here is the text I found...Can someone confirm they have done this on their Earthshaker? Thank you.

"Nothing wrong with the game.

This is what happens to all system 11B and 11C games (with the Aux driver board) when you install LED flashlamps into solenoid spots 3,4, 6 and 7.

There are tie-back diodes on the large TIP36 transistors that connect those circuits to the 50V power source. There is a some feedback into these circuits from the flippers that is not apparent until you install LED's.

To fix this, Cut diodes D3, D4, D6 and D7 from the aux driver board. Then add diodes onto the coils for solenoids 3,4,6 and 7 (banded end of the diode goes to the power wire)"

Or use this if you don't want to modify your board. The circuit on this board contains the modification (built-in).

S11_AUX_WORKING.JPG

Thank you Victor! There isn't a question whether your boards are excellent. That is certain!

Does anybody have the complete plastics set scanned?

May I ask WHICH coils specifically are 3, 4, 6 and 7 ? (name and / or location)

thank you