(Topic ID: 87473)

Earthshaker Owners Club - it's all your fault!

By jibmums

8 years ago


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  • 1,705 posts
  • 263 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Jmckune
  • Topic is favorited by 122 Pinsiders

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There are 1,705 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 35.
#1551 3 months ago

And I always clean and paint anything I take apart, even if it will be hidden later. I want to make sure anything I do stays done (correctly) for a loooong time.

#1552 3 months ago

Success on the shaker motor renovation. Assembled and ready to install:
100_8681 (resized).JPG
Installed, tested ok and working. It does feel a tiny amount "shakier" than before:
100_8687 (resized).JPG
The motor brushes were borrowed from the new motors and were exactly identical. I used blue loctite on the 4 weight setscrews.
It scared the grandkids the first time it activated during a game!

#1553 3 months ago

Question: the promo flyer shows no center post between the flippers and two of the metal rails directly behind the flippers:
100_8691 (resized).JPG
My game does have a center post and no holes drilled in the playfield for metal rails:
100_8690 (resized).JPG
I searched the forums for some info but nothing came up. The playfield parts list in the game manual shows the center post, so I assume it was added to all games during production.

#1554 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

Installed, tested ok and working. It does feel a tiny amount "shakier" than before:

Did you check the settings for the shaker in the menu?
Great job with the refurbish on the motor

#1555 3 months ago

my shaker motor is set at ARCADE in the menu. It does create quite a racket after a couple of seconds.

#1556 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

I searched the forums for some info but nothing came up. The playfield parts list in the game manual shows the center post, so I assume it was added to all games during production.

Mine is exactly like yours - and I know of at least 2 others which are also the same way.

#1557 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

Question: the promo flyer shows no center post between the flippers and two of the metal rails directly behind the flippers:
[quoted image]
My game does have a center post and no holes drilled in the playfield for metal rails:
[quoted image]
I searched the forums for some info but nothing came up. The playfield parts list in the game manual shows the center post, so I assume it was added to all games during production.

Mine is the same as yours. Center post and no metal "biff bars"

ES (resized).PNG

Chris

#1558 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

my shaker motor is set at ARCADE in the menu. It does create quite a racket after a couple of seconds.

I can't have mine at the arcade setting as it tends to rattle across the floor. I can wake the neighbors down the street.

#1559 3 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I can't have mine at the arcade setting as it tends to rattle across the floor. I can wake the neighbors down the street.

cant have mine set to arcade ... the wife wouldn't stop leaning on it and the washer would get lonely !

#1560 3 months ago

2 parts missing to complete my project.

A)
Can someone point me in the direction of a new double leaf switch for the left flipper button? Is the one in the photo correct? I have one which arrived but the leaves are too short.

B)
What would be the correct size for the GI connector on the boards? I think it’s a 9 pin connector but I’ve ordered twice and can’t seem to get the correct size. (0.156 ?)

Thanks

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#1561 3 months ago

Both look spot on to me.

#1562 3 months ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Both look spot on to me.

Great, but what’s the right size? I just took a random shot from Google so I’m not sure

#1563 3 months ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Great, but what’s the right size? I just took a random shot from Google so I’m not sure

It is .156

#1564 3 months ago

Perfect. Thank you

#1565 3 months ago

FYI for anyone else working on the shaker motor. They did use locktite on the set screws in the weights.
I had to use a torch to heat up for 15 seconds or so and the screws came out.
There was still locktite in the hole, so you will need to either have a few extra set screws (with heat) to clean it out or possibly use a 8/32 tap.

#1566 3 months ago

Busy day .... Parts in for powder coat, starting the final on the cabinet.

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#1567 3 months ago

Cabinet done...
Now the long road back!

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#1568 3 months ago

When the ball drops off the fault into the lock subway, is there supposed to be two of those blue rubber adhesive pads to soften the drop?

Mine makes a loud clank and there seems to be left over adhesive from something there at one point - I’ve attached a picture.

Thank you

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#1569 3 months ago
Quoted from Elysiom:

When the ball drops off the fault into the lock subway, is there supposed to be two of those blue rubber adhesive pads to soften the drop?
Mine makes a loud clank and there seems to be left over adhesive from something there at one point - I’ve attached a picture.
Thank you[quoted image]

There shouldn't be anything there. Someone probably added one at some point.

#1570 3 months ago

Alllllmost done.

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#1571 3 months ago

And done
My first pf swap project is complete thanks to help of a wonderful friend I met through the local scene

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#1572 3 months ago

You did an nice job! It looks great!!!

1 week later
#1573 84 days ago

Legs, coindoor and other misc parts powder coated, home made decals installed.

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1 week later
#1574 71 days ago

Headboard back on,decals done, wiring tidied up, boards are in , light board cleaned ... slow progress but progress!

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#1575 69 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Headboard back on,decals done, wiring tidied up, boards are in , light board cleaned ... slow progress but progress!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks amazing. Earthshaker deserves a great restoration.

#1576 66 days ago

Need some Earthshaker help and I am at a loss here figuring this one out. Pulled my states assembly out to rebuild it as the cam was having trouble locking. I work on pins for myself and others and this was a pretty simple job. Of course everything done with the power off removing and re-installing. Turned the power back on and nothing but Earthshaker flashing on the display with a speaker tick every second along with the display flash. Looked up in the head to find the white/red line wires that matched the switch wires and found the same wire in the J4 interconnector flashlamp circuit. This is before I found identical wire color which is a switch wire on another connection. Let's get back to that J4 connector though with the matching wire color. If I pull the connector the game boots right up so I could perform a switch test. Switches all test good. Some coils don't work with the connector pulled because they are tied into that connector. States assembly works fine now but the pin doesn't. Now if I connect J4 and pull J12 off the CPU the game also boots up. These would be 2 different circuits so why does it work with either pulled? Nothing pinched, metal touching etc. Why this problem after a minor repair. Location on the playfield there was no chance of solder splash or damaging anything. All that's in that corner is the states assembly and the ball popper?

#1577 64 days ago

Officially joined the club today! I picked up what I think is a pretty nice example. As a bonus, it also has the sinking building! A question on the shaker, it feels pretty weak compared to my RS. I haven’t ever played one of these so it’s possible it’s normal. It feels like a constant motion and possibly someone moved the weights. The shake feels like a low rumble vs the explosive shake of RS. Can someone confirm how strong their shaker is?

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#1578 64 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Officially joined the club today! I picked up what I think is a pretty nice example. As a bonus, it also has the sinking building! A question on the shaker, it feels pretty weak compared to my RS. I haven’t ever played one of these so it’s possible it’s normal. It feels like a constant motion and possibly someone moved the weights. The shake feels like a low rumble vs the explosive shake of RS. Can someone confirm how strong their shaker is?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

One of the settings is shaker strength. I think the options are home and arcade. Set it to Arcade and you'll feel it for sure!

Chris

#1579 64 days ago

I’ve got a weird one - I’ve put about 100 games on my Earthshaker and now I’m blowing the under playfield 2.5 amp slow blow - when it goes the left sling locks on (only when a game starts or in test mode) and the pop bumpers stop working and the display goes nuts and looses the bottom line on the top display.

It’s weird in that I can put a random amount of games on it and it’s fine - would it be terrible if I tried a 3 amp slow blow in its place ?

I’ve checked the transistors that correlate with the special solenoids and they seem fine and measure in similar values to their neighbors - for the left sling and bop bumpers.

#1580 64 days ago
Quoted from Elysiom:

I’ve got a weird one - I’ve put about 100 games on my Earthshaker and now I’m blowing the under playfield 2.5 amp slow blow - when it goes the left sling locks on (only when a game starts or in test mode) and the pop bumpers stop working and the display goes nuts and looses the bottom line on the top display.
It’s weird in that I can put a random amount of games on it and it’s fine - would it be terrible if I tried a 3 amp slow blow in its place ?
I’ve checked the transistors that correlate with the special solenoids and they seem fine and measure in similar values to their neighbors - for the left sling and bop bumpers.

If it’s only when your game is started, the switch blades are probably too close together on the sling.

#1581 64 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

If it’s only when your game is started, the switch blades are probably too close together on the sling.

It’s only when the fuse blows - otherwise the game plays normally.

#1582 63 days ago

How offset are everyone’s shaker weights? When I went to look at it, I noticed the lock nuts on top of the cover were both pretty much all the way unscrewed which means mine had been tampered with at some point. My weights were offset about 90 degrees. I moved the slightly closer and noticed improvement in the shaker but didn’t know what the normal offset is supposed to be. Are the weights supposed to be directly in line or offset by some amount? Can someone show a picture of their shaker motor? Thanks

#1583 63 days ago
Quoted from Elysiom:

I’ve got a weird one - I’ve put about 100 games on my Earthshaker and now I’m blowing the under playfield 2.5 amp slow blow - when it goes the left sling locks on (only when a game starts or in test mode) and the pop bumpers stop working and the display goes nuts and looses the bottom line on the top display.
It’s weird in that I can put a random amount of games on it and it’s fine - would it be terrible if I tried a 3 amp slow blow in its place ?
I’ve checked the transistors that correlate with the special solenoids and they seem fine and measure in similar values to their neighbors - for the left sling and bop bumpers.

Happened again but this time without blowing the fuse - I’m pretty sure I have a bad solder joint or worn connector somewhere because I swiveled the playfield up and poked around in that general direction and then it was fine at the next power on.

#1584 63 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

How offset are everyone’s shaker weights? When I went to look at it, I noticed the lock nuts on top of the cover were both pretty much all the way unscrewed which means mine had been tampered with at some point. My weights were offset about 90 degrees. I moved the slightly closer and noticed improvement in the shaker but didn’t know what the normal offset is supposed to be. Are the weights supposed to be directly in line or offset by some amount? Can someone show a picture of their shaker motor? Thanks

My weights are not offset at all. The more offset the lower the shaking effect

#1585 63 days ago

shaker motor weights are both pointing straight down when not rotating. This is mine before I put in new motor brushes, that helped greatly:
100_8650 (resized).JPG
after cleaning and painting:
100_8681 (resized).JPG
also put loctite on the weight setscrews.

#1586 62 days ago

Thanks all, I realigned mine and it actually shakes now. Not quite as intense as my Roadshow but it has a few strong moments of shake. I think it just boils down to the pattern it shakes at!

#1587 60 days ago

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?

4dbf-A-12431-0-1-600x450 (resized).jpg
#1588 60 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?
[quoted image]

I'd be interested! I've got a sloppy fault, but it still works. My plan was to weld and cut the slot again if it ever stopped working

#1589 60 days ago
Quoted from gutz:

I'd be interested!

Will update this as soon as I have the quote for the one , see if I can get a discount on more ...

Mine was almost to a point shape...
Couldn't believe it worked as well as it did ...

#1590 59 days ago

Be nice to have a spare. I would be all in, if and when it's available.

Thanks!

#1591 59 days ago

Me too, please.

#1592 58 days ago

I’m in.

#1593 58 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?
[quoted image]

Sign me up. Thanks!

#1594 58 days ago

I bought the sinking institute mod for my ES restore. This thing is a top notch mod! Anyway, I thought notching my repro ramp was going to be necessary to allow the institute to clear. Instead, I decided to design/print a new institute with a notch to avoid the thicker repro ramps. Ended up, notching was unnecessary as there was clearance. Long story short, I experimented with some other colors but red still looks the best. If anyone is in need of a replacement institute, I may be able to help. Also, I am looking into some things to spice up the institute. More to come....
20221002_093314 (resized).jpg

16647220253683481993411718839425 (resized).jpg
#1595 55 days ago

Cleaning this puppy up. Upon tear down, I noticed both the main ramp and side ramp entrances were cracked completely off and that is what was causing the rough transitions. I ordered an entire new ramp set which should make the game look a lot nicer. I have also started working on removing the ground in dirt. The playfield overall is pretty nice. The only place I see bare wood is right on the edge of the red pop and under the main ramp flap. Before and after still have some work to do but progress has definitely been made!

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#1596 55 days ago

Wow that looks like a tremendous difference! Nice job!!!

#1597 53 days ago

I asked this question a while back, but still don't have an answer. The Pop Bumper lights on my Earthshaker are not lighting up during the attract mode. They light fine during game play and when using the test menu, but not in attract mode. Is this due to a setting or possibly the rom version? Any suggestions on how to get them working in attract mode would be appreciated. I have recently updated to the latest rom version, but it made no difference.

I have played another Earthshaker at Pinball Republic in London and the Pop Bumpers were lighting in the attract mode, so I know there is a way of doing it. Just don't know how. I have also seen Youtube videos of the Earthshaker attract mode with the pop bumper lighting.

#1598 53 days ago

Could it be the ROM version you have VS the Pinball Republic?

#1599 53 days ago

Mine also don’t light in attract mode but work during test and gameplay. Mine is a prototype though so hesitant to change the ROMs

#1600 53 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Mine also don’t light in attract mode but work during test and gameplay. Mine is a prototype though so hesitant to change the ROMs

No reason to hesitate the building will still work. Is there something in the prototype gameplay that got axed in the later production?
The lamp shows are different for sure but iirc the proto lamp show was pretty rudimentary.

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