(Topic ID: 87473)

Earthshaker Owners Club - it's all your fault!

By jibmums

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 5 days ago by gutz
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There are 2,303 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 47.
#1551 1 year ago

And I always clean and paint anything I take apart, even if it will be hidden later. I want to make sure anything I do stays done (correctly) for a loooong time.

#1552 1 year ago

Success on the shaker motor renovation. Assembled and ready to install:
100_8681 (resized).JPG100_8681 (resized).JPG
Installed, tested ok and working. It does feel a tiny amount "shakier" than before:
100_8687 (resized).JPG100_8687 (resized).JPG
The motor brushes were borrowed from the new motors and were exactly identical. I used blue loctite on the 4 weight setscrews.
It scared the grandkids the first time it activated during a game!

#1553 1 year ago

Question: the promo flyer shows no center post between the flippers and two of the metal rails directly behind the flippers:
100_8691 (resized).JPG100_8691 (resized).JPG
My game does have a center post and no holes drilled in the playfield for metal rails:
100_8690 (resized).JPG100_8690 (resized).JPG
I searched the forums for some info but nothing came up. The playfield parts list in the game manual shows the center post, so I assume it was added to all games during production.

#1554 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

Installed, tested ok and working. It does feel a tiny amount "shakier" than before:

Did you check the settings for the shaker in the menu?
Great job with the refurbish on the motor

#1555 1 year ago

my shaker motor is set at ARCADE in the menu. It does create quite a racket after a couple of seconds.

#1556 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

I searched the forums for some info but nothing came up. The playfield parts list in the game manual shows the center post, so I assume it was added to all games during production.

Mine is exactly like yours - and I know of at least 2 others which are also the same way.

#1557 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

Question: the promo flyer shows no center post between the flippers and two of the metal rails directly behind the flippers:
[quoted image]
My game does have a center post and no holes drilled in the playfield for metal rails:
[quoted image]
I searched the forums for some info but nothing came up. The playfield parts list in the game manual shows the center post, so I assume it was added to all games during production.

Mine is the same as yours. Center post and no metal "biff bars"

ES (resized).PNGES (resized).PNG

Chris

#1558 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballlarry1:

my shaker motor is set at ARCADE in the menu. It does create quite a racket after a couple of seconds.

I can't have mine at the arcade setting as it tends to rattle across the floor. I can wake the neighbors down the street.

#1559 1 year ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I can't have mine at the arcade setting as it tends to rattle across the floor. I can wake the neighbors down the street.

cant have mine set to arcade ... the wife wouldn't stop leaning on it and the washer would get lonely !

#1560 1 year ago

2 parts missing to complete my project.

A)
Can someone point me in the direction of a new double leaf switch for the left flipper button? Is the one in the photo correct? I have one which arrived but the leaves are too short.

B)
What would be the correct size for the GI connector on the boards? I think it’s a 9 pin connector but I’ve ordered twice and can’t seem to get the correct size. (0.156 ?)

Thanks

6E7F6DE7-40D8-43A6-86D6-BBAAFC03ADBA (resized).jpeg6E7F6DE7-40D8-43A6-86D6-BBAAFC03ADBA (resized).jpegD2A14012-C784-4E9F-81E8-C79BFDCEF1D9 (resized).jpegD2A14012-C784-4E9F-81E8-C79BFDCEF1D9 (resized).jpeg

#1561 1 year ago

Both look spot on to me.

#1562 1 year ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Both look spot on to me.

Great, but what’s the right size? I just took a random shot from Google so I’m not sure

#1563 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballGalore:

Great, but what’s the right size? I just took a random shot from Google so I’m not sure

It is .156

#1564 1 year ago

Perfect. Thank you

#1565 1 year ago

FYI for anyone else working on the shaker motor. They did use locktite on the set screws in the weights.
I had to use a torch to heat up for 15 seconds or so and the screws came out.
There was still locktite in the hole, so you will need to either have a few extra set screws (with heat) to clean it out or possibly use a 8/32 tap.

#1566 1 year ago

Busy day .... Parts in for powder coat, starting the final on the cabinet.

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#1567 1 year ago

Cabinet done...
Now the long road back!

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#1568 1 year ago

When the ball drops off the fault into the lock subway, is there supposed to be two of those blue rubber adhesive pads to soften the drop?

Mine makes a loud clank and there seems to be left over adhesive from something there at one point - I’ve attached a picture.

Thank you

3C75042C-3F48-4A7D-8462-2CAB0EF6FC3B (resized).jpeg3C75042C-3F48-4A7D-8462-2CAB0EF6FC3B (resized).jpeg
#1569 1 year ago
Quoted from Elysiom:

When the ball drops off the fault into the lock subway, is there supposed to be two of those blue rubber adhesive pads to soften the drop?
Mine makes a loud clank and there seems to be left over adhesive from something there at one point - I’ve attached a picture.
Thank you[quoted image]

There shouldn't be anything there. Someone probably added one at some point.

#1570 1 year ago

Alllllmost done.

6BAF3688-F805-4FEC-9827-C993C7299A3B (resized).jpeg6BAF3688-F805-4FEC-9827-C993C7299A3B (resized).jpegC5143654-C7A8-43AB-BEDB-D7FE81439C8E (resized).jpegC5143654-C7A8-43AB-BEDB-D7FE81439C8E (resized).jpeg8B6B4233-AC12-44BB-86C0-C379F228CEF9 (resized).jpeg8B6B4233-AC12-44BB-86C0-C379F228CEF9 (resized).jpeg
#1571 1 year ago

And done
My first pf swap project is complete thanks to help of a wonderful friend I met through the local scene

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#1572 1 year ago

You did an nice job! It looks great!!!

1 week later
#1573 1 year ago

Legs, coindoor and other misc parts powder coated, home made decals installed.

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1 week later
#1574 1 year ago

Headboard back on,decals done, wiring tidied up, boards are in , light board cleaned ... slow progress but progress!

20220918_132615 (resized).jpg20220918_132615 (resized).jpg20220918_132624 (resized).jpg20220918_132624 (resized).jpgIMG_20220917_163711_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20220917_163711_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20220918_150521_01 (resized).jpgIMG_20220918_150521_01 (resized).jpg
#1575 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Headboard back on,decals done, wiring tidied up, boards are in , light board cleaned ... slow progress but progress!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks amazing. Earthshaker deserves a great restoration.

#1576 1 year ago

Need some Earthshaker help and I am at a loss here figuring this one out. Pulled my states assembly out to rebuild it as the cam was having trouble locking. I work on pins for myself and others and this was a pretty simple job. Of course everything done with the power off removing and re-installing. Turned the power back on and nothing but Earthshaker flashing on the display with a speaker tick every second along with the display flash. Looked up in the head to find the white/red line wires that matched the switch wires and found the same wire in the J4 interconnector flashlamp circuit. This is before I found identical wire color which is a switch wire on another connection. Let's get back to that J4 connector though with the matching wire color. If I pull the connector the game boots right up so I could perform a switch test. Switches all test good. Some coils don't work with the connector pulled because they are tied into that connector. States assembly works fine now but the pin doesn't. Now if I connect J4 and pull J12 off the CPU the game also boots up. These would be 2 different circuits so why does it work with either pulled? Nothing pinched, metal touching etc. Why this problem after a minor repair. Location on the playfield there was no chance of solder splash or damaging anything. All that's in that corner is the states assembly and the ball popper?

#1577 1 year ago

Officially joined the club today! I picked up what I think is a pretty nice example. As a bonus, it also has the sinking building! A question on the shaker, it feels pretty weak compared to my RS. I haven’t ever played one of these so it’s possible it’s normal. It feels like a constant motion and possibly someone moved the weights. The shake feels like a low rumble vs the explosive shake of RS. Can someone confirm how strong their shaker is?

252D0D7F-59ED-467A-9553-A5835A86A75C (resized).jpeg252D0D7F-59ED-467A-9553-A5835A86A75C (resized).jpeg5BBC2A40-ADFD-42D5-B36A-A2F9C7746B14 (resized).jpeg5BBC2A40-ADFD-42D5-B36A-A2F9C7746B14 (resized).jpegE10FDF45-BFFE-4FA9-B1BE-3F186A905E7F (resized).jpegE10FDF45-BFFE-4FA9-B1BE-3F186A905E7F (resized).jpeg
#1578 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Officially joined the club today! I picked up what I think is a pretty nice example. As a bonus, it also has the sinking building! A question on the shaker, it feels pretty weak compared to my RS. I haven’t ever played one of these so it’s possible it’s normal. It feels like a constant motion and possibly someone moved the weights. The shake feels like a low rumble vs the explosive shake of RS. Can someone confirm how strong their shaker is?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

One of the settings is shaker strength. I think the options are home and arcade. Set it to Arcade and you'll feel it for sure!

Chris

#1579 1 year ago

I’ve got a weird one - I’ve put about 100 games on my Earthshaker and now I’m blowing the under playfield 2.5 amp slow blow - when it goes the left sling locks on (only when a game starts or in test mode) and the pop bumpers stop working and the display goes nuts and looses the bottom line on the top display.

It’s weird in that I can put a random amount of games on it and it’s fine - would it be terrible if I tried a 3 amp slow blow in its place ?

I’ve checked the transistors that correlate with the special solenoids and they seem fine and measure in similar values to their neighbors - for the left sling and bop bumpers.

#1580 1 year ago
Quoted from Elysiom:

I’ve got a weird one - I’ve put about 100 games on my Earthshaker and now I’m blowing the under playfield 2.5 amp slow blow - when it goes the left sling locks on (only when a game starts or in test mode) and the pop bumpers stop working and the display goes nuts and looses the bottom line on the top display.
It’s weird in that I can put a random amount of games on it and it’s fine - would it be terrible if I tried a 3 amp slow blow in its place ?
I’ve checked the transistors that correlate with the special solenoids and they seem fine and measure in similar values to their neighbors - for the left sling and bop bumpers.

If it’s only when your game is started, the switch blades are probably too close together on the sling.

#1581 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

If it’s only when your game is started, the switch blades are probably too close together on the sling.

It’s only when the fuse blows - otherwise the game plays normally.

#1582 1 year ago

How offset are everyone’s shaker weights? When I went to look at it, I noticed the lock nuts on top of the cover were both pretty much all the way unscrewed which means mine had been tampered with at some point. My weights were offset about 90 degrees. I moved the slightly closer and noticed improvement in the shaker but didn’t know what the normal offset is supposed to be. Are the weights supposed to be directly in line or offset by some amount? Can someone show a picture of their shaker motor? Thanks

#1583 1 year ago
Quoted from Elysiom:

I’ve got a weird one - I’ve put about 100 games on my Earthshaker and now I’m blowing the under playfield 2.5 amp slow blow - when it goes the left sling locks on (only when a game starts or in test mode) and the pop bumpers stop working and the display goes nuts and looses the bottom line on the top display.
It’s weird in that I can put a random amount of games on it and it’s fine - would it be terrible if I tried a 3 amp slow blow in its place ?
I’ve checked the transistors that correlate with the special solenoids and they seem fine and measure in similar values to their neighbors - for the left sling and bop bumpers.

Happened again but this time without blowing the fuse - I’m pretty sure I have a bad solder joint or worn connector somewhere because I swiveled the playfield up and poked around in that general direction and then it was fine at the next power on.

#1584 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

How offset are everyone’s shaker weights? When I went to look at it, I noticed the lock nuts on top of the cover were both pretty much all the way unscrewed which means mine had been tampered with at some point. My weights were offset about 90 degrees. I moved the slightly closer and noticed improvement in the shaker but didn’t know what the normal offset is supposed to be. Are the weights supposed to be directly in line or offset by some amount? Can someone show a picture of their shaker motor? Thanks

My weights are not offset at all. The more offset the lower the shaking effect

#1585 1 year ago

shaker motor weights are both pointing straight down when not rotating. This is mine before I put in new motor brushes, that helped greatly:
100_8650 (resized).JPG100_8650 (resized).JPG
after cleaning and painting:
100_8681 (resized).JPG100_8681 (resized).JPG
also put loctite on the weight setscrews.

#1586 1 year ago

Thanks all, I realigned mine and it actually shakes now. Not quite as intense as my Roadshow but it has a few strong moments of shake. I think it just boils down to the pattern it shakes at!

#1587 1 year ago

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?

4dbf-A-12431-0-1-600x450 (resized).jpg4dbf-A-12431-0-1-600x450 (resized).jpg
#1588 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?
[quoted image]

I'd be interested! I've got a sloppy fault, but it still works. My plan was to weld and cut the slot again if it ever stopped working

#1589 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

I'd be interested!

Will update this as soon as I have the quote for the one , see if I can get a discount on more ...

Mine was almost to a point shape...
Couldn't believe it worked as well as it did ...

#1590 1 year ago

Be nice to have a spare. I would be all in, if and when it's available.

Thanks!

#1591 1 year ago

Me too, please.

#1593 1 year ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

sadly my actuator is pretty chewed up from the constant opening and closing of the fault .
will have pricing on Monday but having one fabricated ...
anyone else need this part ?
[quoted image]

Sign me up. Thanks!

#1594 1 year ago

I bought the sinking institute mod for my ES restore. This thing is a top notch mod! Anyway, I thought notching my repro ramp was going to be necessary to allow the institute to clear. Instead, I decided to design/print a new institute with a notch to avoid the thicker repro ramps. Ended up, notching was unnecessary as there was clearance. Long story short, I experimented with some other colors but red still looks the best. If anyone is in need of a replacement institute, I may be able to help. Also, I am looking into some things to spice up the institute. More to come....
20221002_093314 (resized).jpg20221002_093314 (resized).jpg

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#1595 1 year ago

Cleaning this puppy up. Upon tear down, I noticed both the main ramp and side ramp entrances were cracked completely off and that is what was causing the rough transitions. I ordered an entire new ramp set which should make the game look a lot nicer. I have also started working on removing the ground in dirt. The playfield overall is pretty nice. The only place I see bare wood is right on the edge of the red pop and under the main ramp flap. Before and after still have some work to do but progress has definitely been made!

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#1596 1 year ago

Wow that looks like a tremendous difference! Nice job!!!

#1597 1 year ago

I asked this question a while back, but still don't have an answer. The Pop Bumper lights on my Earthshaker are not lighting up during the attract mode. They light fine during game play and when using the test menu, but not in attract mode. Is this due to a setting or possibly the rom version? Any suggestions on how to get them working in attract mode would be appreciated. I have recently updated to the latest rom version, but it made no difference.

I have played another Earthshaker at Pinball Republic in London and the Pop Bumpers were lighting in the attract mode, so I know there is a way of doing it. Just don't know how. I have also seen Youtube videos of the Earthshaker attract mode with the pop bumper lighting.

#1598 1 year ago

Could it be the ROM version you have VS the Pinball Republic?

#1599 1 year ago

Mine also don’t light in attract mode but work during test and gameplay. Mine is a prototype though so hesitant to change the ROMs

#1600 1 year ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Mine also don’t light in attract mode but work during test and gameplay. Mine is a prototype though so hesitant to change the ROMs

No reason to hesitate the building will still work. Is there something in the prototype gameplay that got axed in the later production?
The lamp shows are different for sure but iirc the proto lamp show was pretty rudimentary.

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