It looks to me like you're missing the blue rubber pad at the end of the wireform. Without that on, it can change the ball location when it's trying to line up with the grooves.

I got an email from Mark at Basement Arcade that the Sinking Institute Kits are available once again. Yay!

http://www.basementarcade.com/For_Sale.html

Yes, I was about to post that. Ordered mine today!

Thanks for making them available again!

Chris

Yeah, mine definitely has sounds during attract mode. I just finished a game, and not more than 1 or 2 minutes later the music plays for 10 sec or so...every few minutes. If you are certain that its turned on in the menus, maybe check your ROM version. This is what mine displays (see photo)

20220531_225253 (resized).jpg

When my California-Nevada diverter opens up, about 1/3rd of the time the ball doesn't roll down the open gap leading to the subway, but intead just rolls off the front of the diverter and falls onto the playfield.

Is there any adjustment I can make to improve the action of the ball and prevent this?

*side note: it is cool that Lawlor and team realized that this might happen, and programmed the game to then allow you to work on the next set of zones you need to visit...while also keeping the lock shot(s) illuminated. So you're not really penalized...but it is annoying.

Mine also does this on occasion. I was thinking of trying a new foam piece at the end of the wire form, where the balls hits before going on the California/Nevada diverter. I'll let you know if this helps. If you run into anything that works, please let me know. I have the sinking institute mod and before I got the game someone glued a plastic piece on the top/back of it so any balls that are not correctly diverted cannot get stuck behind the institute, this was obviously an issue before i got the game and this was their solution. It looks like crap though, so I'm going to find another way to fix the issue.

I have already tried shimming the entire diverter mechanism underneath to tilt the states more toward the right side, and perhaps it helped a bit. I feel like bending the metal tab that they attach to, but I wonder if there's a more elegant adjustment to be made.

Cleaning up nicely. Colors just pop. So beautiful for a routed 33 year old game

D4030354-D4B7-4D74-BEA9-F0736B5742AE (resized).jpeg

EDBA6469-0C78-4FE7-89EA-DEA046F992BF (resized).jpeg

20220312_141806 (resized).jpg

Just realized this is not the piece you were asking about....sorry.

Am I missing something in the manual? I am looking to understand what each fuse is for so that if something isn't working, I can check the list and find the fuse.
In the manual, there is a page showing what each fuse (part number) is and the location, but I cannot find the purpose. As an example, which fuses operate the lower GI?

Here is a general fuse list for System 11 games. You’ll find this and tons of other useful repair information in here:

https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.htm#fuses

716A30DE-539E-405D-9975-081F3FDADB80 (resized).jpeg

What's the right way to test power coming from transformer?

I am having a problem (rebuilding playfield not the transformer) with my lower gi. So I figured I would start from the transformer and work my way to the light bulbs. I'm guessing there is a short somewhere, but thought, since I've never actually started this game when I got it, I would learn and start at the beginning.

The schematic indicates 2 solid and 2 yellow / white wires coming from the transformer. I figured I would test those. Using the principal of it's usually something simple, I assume I am the problem. When I test each of the lines in the connector touching from the line to ground wire in the cabinet, I get different voltages (AC). Then I went looking on the web for how to test a transformer and I am seeing that I'm probably doing it wrong. Should I be testing from pin 1 to pin 2 and pin 3 to pin 4? If so, what should I expect to see?

Downstream, each of those wires get split (parallel) to 2 wires each to connect to the interconnect board. If I want to check the power on the output of the interconnect board, I would use connectors 2J7, 2J9 and 2J10. What's the right way to check the voltage on each of the pins? As an example, testing the lighting on the coin door, do I use 2J10, touching pins 9 and 10, or do I test each individual, if so, what is common?

Thanks

giPower (resized).png

Does anyone have a good solution to prevent the yellow target from getting bent over on an angle like this? I suppose I could make some sort of bracket to mount below the PF to hold it in the vertical position. Anyone already solved this?

20220607_212202 (resized).jpg

Re-crimp the rivets holding it together (sometimes clamping it in a vice works), or replace it.

Get one of these from PL. https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BK3
It works with Williams too. Just need to drill out the rivets and insert screws in their place. Have had great success on ES, TAF, Radical, etc.

Here’s an example on the ES I just wrapped up:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shaking-up-another-old-earthshaker-for-a-refresh#post-6893925

That is EXACTLY what I need! Thanks!

I need to check out Pinball Life more often. I've actually never ordered from them. And yeah, my Funhouse has the same issue on the lower hotdog target. Definitely ordering 2 or 3 of the kits. My TAF is in the states and I haven't laid eyes on it in a while, but you're saying one of its targets is susceptible as well?

I used to use the regular reinforced styles as TAF swamp is really bad for bending them back and twisting. Then found they sold these which I guess Stern uses. Super clever device.

And yes, anywhere you want a reinforced target and/or anti sway, this is your part. It works in ES fine. But other games I’d recommend testing as you do have the thickness difference due to the “L” part.

Easy hack (until the new part arrives), put a small zip-tie around the entire switch toward the top of it (but still under the playfield). Pull it extra tight and it should stop it from splaying off to the side. I only know this because my newly acquired Earthshaker had a zip tie around that switch, which I though was weird, so I removed it. Within a day or two the target had moved over, just like yours. I immediately replaced the zip tie and haven't had any issues with it since then. I've been planning on replacing it when I get around to doing a shop out on it. Happy to take a picture of mine with the zip tie if it's helpful.

New rail. cleaning of the braids and boards. Back box repair. We’re moving along nicely

51BE452D-A481-4A18-A475-48C47CE1015D (resized).jpeg

E15C9616-99F3-4CF8-93B7-35C05F3F368D (resized).jpeg

54861011-1E57-4D45-A6D4-8F7C88FD52D1 (resized).jpeg

31D79B6E-27E9-4C22-AD94-509F61710406 (resized).jpeg

85F4DA1E-A04D-49FF-B122-AFBEA4D1B443 (resized).jpeg

Can someone help me with the part number for the left flipper leaf switch? I got two of the same (the one that’s in stock in the photo), but it’s a single, correct for the right side.

For the left one I obviously need a dual leaf switch for the two flippers that are on the left.
I’m guessing it would be the one in the other photo, but seems like it’s not something Marco stocks up on. Haven’t been able to see it elsewhere
Thanx

0466998D-56B3-401F-81B5-3D7D46E43AAF (resized).jpeg

5D200D82-7F5B-4A17-A9B9-445701C8B12B (resized).jpeg

Anyone put LEDs in the building? Trying to decide if I should change out. If so, what did you use and are you happy with the choice?

I did, and I'm not a fan. Haven't been super motivated to change it to warm white though. Numbers are color coordinated to their playfield inserts.

20220615_183527 (resized).jpg

Found it in Europe. Check this link. https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/switch-dual-leaf-contact-assy.html
Otherwise you may have to build it.

All LEDs (Cointaker) in mine and I've been very happy with it. Difficult to get a good photo since they kind of "blow out" in the photo, be here you go.

20220615_210918 (resized).jpg

20220615_211009 (resized).jpg

Thanks, I just placed and order with them a week or two ago which is on its way :-/ oops

Did they ever make an alternative version for the back glass?

Yup, in early games, the kid's baseball cap had a Chicago Cubs logo on it, later games didnt.

Wasn’t that Whirlwind?

Oh ok, thank you.

Doh! I gotta stop bouncing back and forth from the Whirlwind forum!

Hahaha

In a 2 pin collection do you think ES and WW would be a good fit?

I think they are too similar for a small collection. Better to have more variety.

It’s been a while since I played ES but I thought with it being a little more stop and go that it might compliment WW.

If you want to be able to answer "yes" to to the first question everyone ask as soon as they find you have ES, then yes, get WW.

Is there any GI/LED controller boards awailable for system 11 ?
Anyone experiencing flickering after converting to LED ?

Absofrigginlutely! Unless you're restricted to just one game... If you have one of the 2, you HAVE to have the other!
Yes, they are both "natural disaster" themes, but Whirlwind is a completely different game, and the best of the 2 by far IMO!!

My machine isn't fully running yet, but I'm not really seeing flicker with just the power on.

I do have some concerns about my flashers though. Still rebuilding.
You can check this out:

I currently have WW and I am looking for a 2nd pin to add. I also currently have RS which is fun. My wife and daughter hate the heads so I’m selling or trading it off and probably going to get another system 11 next to WW.

What is it with women and their issues with Ted, Red & Rudy!?! I hear this stuff all the time!

Hahahaha. It is such a good game!

Totally agree!

WW:ES.jpg.pdf

Both GREAT games. I recently finished rebuilding my ES after a playfield swap and really love it. Bought a WW a few weeks ago and haven't touched it at all yet..two other big projects in-work.

20220502_192221 (resized).jpg

20220526_180211 (resized).jpg

More progress today. Had an amazing friend I met through the hobby help me out with a ruined backbox which came out beautifully imo. Prepared some of the plastics, and added the post by the flippers which had to be drilled in.

0E1E02FB-A9A7-40AE-941E-85E0D0431455 (resized).jpeg

83415788-C198-4CB0-9D23-8C6D884BEBC1 (resized).jpegDAE634F7-0DA8-4E6C-9082-C850B146E443 (resized).jpegF9C8C944-F28D-4B2F-A5E5-1B15F2BD7DE1 (resized).jpegFC2208E4-DCF3-428B-A072-FD56A5328B55 (resized).jpeg7BF69A7F-166F-4FC0-961E-CA9606D224DF (resized).jpeg284E427F-7B9A-42EC-9732-614BE740C99C (resized).jpeg68C9F599-1367-4FFB-8481-B1301AC69887 (resized).jpegC93E5201-1F89-4A24-8028-3D15447B1832 (resized).jpeg

DFF3E90E-26DF-41AB-B8A0-77214EAFA96E (resized).jpeg

Nice work! Curious, where did you purchase your cabinet decals? They look awesome!

That’s the original cabinet !!!! has some scuffs but gorgeous on both sides, so not touching that.
Edit: in case you mean the backbox decals those I got from someone in Croatia but for the life of me I can’t find the email or pm here to send you his name.