(Topic ID: 87473)

Earthshaker Owners Club - it's all your fault!

By jibmums

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by roffels
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There are 1,473 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 30.
#1351 52 days ago

Noticed something on the PF today during gameplay, thought it was a bit of paper towel... realized it was a chunk of the artwork from between/under a post and a metal ball guide. Should I chalk this up to an over-tightened post on my part or is it a vision of things to come? This is a CPR playfield that I just finished 2 weeks ago and I was cognizant to not over-tighten anything as I re-assembled the topside. Only about 30 games on the new playfield.

20220512_200412 (resized).jpg20220512_200442 (resized).jpg
#1352 52 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

That's what I thought the sling brackets were for

Exactly!
In some cases, the flipper coil-stop!

#1353 52 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Yeah... That sounds WAY easier than what me (and most other techs) do... .

That's why I didn't recommend doing it my way Inexperience sucks.

#1354 52 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Noticed something on the PF today during gameplay, thought it was a bit of paper towel... realized it was a chunk of the artwork from between/under a post and a metal ball guide. Should I chalk this up to an over-tightened post on my part or is it a vision of things to come? This is a CPR playfield that I just finished 2 weeks ago and I was cognizant to not over-tighten anything as I re-assembled the topside. Only about 30 games on the new playfield.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Did it have a month at least to cure? If I remember correctly you got this after mine, I’m getting to mine only now after the cure.
Just thinking of a reason why this could be happening

#1355 51 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Did it have a month at least to cure?

I bought the PF at the end of February so it's been at least 10 weeks since CPR mailed it out to me. It had no smell when I recieved it and seemed fairly hard when I checked to bottom edge before assembly. I'm hoping it's just a combination of stresses from the edge of the metal rail and threaded securing post combined with the round post next to it. I supposed it will be pretty easy to remove those pieces, repaint some white there and apply a bit of clear epoxy onto the area. It's about 8mm x 4mm.

#1356 51 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

This may be overkill, but you can never have enough photos.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Someone should sticky this post. These pictures will work for most 11B games. (But really though, most 11s in general...at least it can help someone in a jam) THANK YOU.

#1357 47 days ago

Looking for the sinking building. If anyone has one they'll never get around to installing please PM me!

#1358 46 days ago
Quoted from Keroppi:

Looking for the sinking building. If anyone has one they'll never get around to installing please PM me!

And if you have 2, let me know secondly please

Chris

#1359 46 days ago
Quoted from Keroppi:

Looking for the sinking building. If anyone has one they'll never get around to installing please PM me!

Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

And if you have 2, let me know secondly please
Chris

I just got one a few weeks ago.
https://www.basementarcade.com/ES_Purchase.html

#1360 46 days ago

I am guessing these are out of stock because I ordered one and my payment was refunded about 10 minutes later

Chris

#1361 46 days ago

Bummer. It took a bit after I paid for it so I'm guess that he makes them to order. Maybe reach out to him?

#1362 46 days ago

As far as I’m aware, the sinking building is made in batches. You might have to wait for the next batch, assuming there is one. I remember trying to get one from him several years ago after his second batch ran out, and it wasn’t until now that I was able to buy one.

Definitely try reaching out to see if/when it’ll be re-run.

#1363 46 days ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

I am guessing these are out of stock because I ordered one and my payment was refunded about 10 minutes later
Chris

I believe I was sent the last one on hand

#1364 46 days ago

I have what I believe is an NOS plastic set for Earthshaker. I found the set years ago in an operators warehouse along with several other NOS parts. Been hoarding for year, but need a new home $175 plus shipping.

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#1365 45 days ago
Quoted from joetechbob:

I believe I was sent the last one on hand

You people are depressing. LOL
I'd heard it can take ages to find one, that's why I figured I'd ask and pray someone was holding onto one and wouldn't be using it...

Well in those last couple weeks, that domain vanished. Wonder if he is done for good.

#1366 45 days ago
Quoted from Keroppi:

Well in those last couple weeks, that domain vanished. Wonder if he is done for good.

Just working for me now.

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#1367 43 days ago

Work work work work work

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#1368 43 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Work work work work work
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How has the playfield been for holes and dimples for you?

#1369 43 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

How has the playfield been for holes and dimples for you?

Left that part for my friend who is helping me on this project and is way more competent than I. He’s had some work but I won’t be a good source to tell you how much effort it took

#1370 43 days ago

I got a CPR backglass yesterday. Love the colors but it’s not mirrored the way the original is. Meaning I can’t see my reflection in things like his sunglasses. For anyone that has one, is this the way they all are?

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#1371 43 days ago
Quoted from mozach:

I got a CPR backglass yesterday. Love the colors but it’s not mirrored the way the original is. Meaning I can’t see my reflection in things like his sunglasses. For anyone that has one, is this the way they all are?

I picked up the pink car version from CPR this year. The mirroring definitely wasn't as clear as the original, but I can still see my reflection.

#1372 43 days ago
Quoted from 8bitrobo:

I picked up the pink car version from CPR this year. The mirroring definitely wasn't as clear as the original, but I can still see my reflection.

CPR glass & speaker panel on sample game

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#1373 43 days ago

I believe you can get mirrored or non mirrored from them.

#1374 43 days ago

Can anyone provide information on when and what can be connected, turned on and tested during a rebuild? I have about 80% of the playfield done, can I plug everything in and turn it on (as long as no shorted wires) safely and test what is connected? Should I wait until everything is on the playfield?

I figure it will be easier to fix things before everything is in place.

Thoughts?

#1375 43 days ago
Quoted from rmillman:

Can anyone provide information on when and what can be connected, turned on and tested during a rebuild? I have about 80% of the playfield done, can I plug everything in and turn it on (as long as no shorted wires) safely and test what is connected? Should I wait until everything is on the playfield?
I figure it will be easier to fix things before everything is in place.
Thoughts?

There’s a few ways to go about it. When I started doing my own swaps I’d leave it on the rotisserie and plug in next to the game. Generally it would be easier to put it all on now and triple check things. Then plug in and test.

#1376 43 days ago
Quoted from rmillman:

Can anyone provide information on when and what can be connected, turned on and tested during a rebuild? I have about 80% of the playfield done, can I plug everything in and turn it on (as long as no shorted wires) safely and test what is connected? Should I wait until everything is on the playfield?
I figure it will be easier to fix things before everything is in place.
Thoughts?

I just finished my own PF swap last month. I would recommend to visually inspect all switches, bulb sockets, GI, ect to make sure there are no shorts. Check for switch tabs bent over and touching the other side. Leave the solenoid connectors off at first if you're really concerned. I was lucky and had almost no issues...but I didnt desolder much during my swap. I only had a small issue related to wiring getting pinched in the VUK when I got it fired up. You will at a minimum need to connect the harnesses for the coin door to get the machine to fire up. You can leave the lamp, switch, and solenoid connectors disconnected if you want to. But as long as your methodical in your inspection prior, you should be fine.

#1377 43 days ago

Here’s the swap I did/doing. I second Duffy’s comments above. Most of my customers want all new switches, coils, etc and disconnect/unsolder everything.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shaking-up-another-old-earthshaker-for-a-refresh

#1378 42 days ago
Quoted from rmillman:

Can anyone provide information on when and what can be connected, turned on and tested during a rebuild?
Thoughts?

IMHO, doesn't matter that much.

Clipboard02 (resized).jpg

Last rebuild, have the playfield still on the bench and had all 3 harnesses hooked up and did my testing. Everything was fine.

If you wanted to play it safer, hook up just the switch harness, power up and test. Then do the lamps, power up and test and finally the coils/flashers, power up and test. Testing out of the pin is better because IF you have to dig into something, a lot easier on the bench.

It is a bit ... exciting.. that first time you power it up after having it torn down.

#1379 40 days ago
Quoted from pencilneck:

It is a bit ... exciting.. that first time you power it up after having it torn down.

Quoted from rmillman:

Can anyone provide information on when and what can be connected, turned on and tested during a rebuild?

I'll second this. When I did a High Speed swap, I had a Special Solenoid transistor explode on the first power-on. On my Nine Ball swap, I had locked on coils and transistor magic smoke the first time I powered it on! My recent Earthshaker swap went extremely well with virtually no issues.

So look over your work carefully, but in the end don't be afraid...if you blow something up you get the experience of finding and fixing the issue. It's sure taught me a lot. Once you get comfortable replacing PCB components then you're not near as worried about what might go wrong.

#1380 39 days ago

Can I ask for some help figuring out the correct T-nut thread size needed for Earthshaker?
So many different sizes and lenghts to choose from, ill never get it right.
Prob need to replace a good 15 or so while swapping the playfields.

Which would be the one to get?!
Thanks in advance

Screen Shot 2022-05-25 at 12.21.30 (resized).pngtnut (resized).jpeg

#1381 39 days ago
Quoted from shokel328:

Can I ask for some help figuring out the correct T-nut thread size needed for Earthshaker?
[quoted image][quoted image]

They are all pretty much the same size except maybe 1 or 2 that have a longer barrel. I think 1 is a 6-32 thread but I cant remember where. I removed and re-used most from of them from my old PF and the vast majority of them were 8-32 thread and about 1/4" barrel length. I had to replace a few that were stripped or the teeth were broken off of...so definitely order at least 5-10 of this size. Just pop one out from the old PF with a thin flathead screwdriver to verify the size.

I would also recommend to pre-drill tiny guide holes for the teeth of the T-nuts. I placed them where they needed to go and pressed them into the wood a bit to make small marks on the wood, then drilled 3 small (1/16") holes about 1/8" deep. This helped keep the teeth straight as I tapped the T-nuts in from the PF back side. Without doing this I had some T-nuts fold their teeth over flat as I tried to install them.

#1382 39 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

They are all pretty much the same size except maybe 1 or 2 that have a longer barrel. I think 1 is a 6-32 thread but I cant remember where. I removed and re-used most from of them from my old PF and the vast majority of them were 8-32 thread and about 1/4" barrel length. I had to replace a few that were stripped or the teeth were broken off of...so definitely order at least 5-10 of this size. Just pop one out from the old PF with a thin flathead screwdriver to verify the size.
I would also recommend to pre-drill tiny guide holes for the teeth of the T-nuts. I placed them where they needed to go and pressed them into the wood a bit to make small marks on the wood, then drilled 3 small (1/16") holes about 1/8" deep. This helped keep the teeth straight as I tapped the T-nuts in from the PF back side. Without doing this I had some T-nuts fold their teeth over flat as I tried to install them.

thank you!

#1383 39 days ago

Should always get the longer barrel the more threads the better on this type of connection - usually a Tnut is used for strength of the post, so you want more than a single thread or 2 from the screw in the tnut.

#1384 39 days ago

Looking for some help on my Earthshaker. The top left scoop gets rejected 90% + of all accurate shots to it (accurate as in that shot hit directly in the center of the scoop). It literally hits the metal back part of the scoop and ricochets right back out in the opposite direction. I can feel/see a little bit of a raise in the metal protector at the start of the scoop, but not much. I'm thinking that maybe that is making the ball "jump" just a little and hit off of the back of the scoop a little high or something. That part of the scoop looks like a PITA to replace, so I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas to try first? Anyone else had this problem on a scoop before?

Thanks for any suggestions, links and or help!

#1385 39 days ago

I was going through my menu today and noticed the option for attract sound. I’ve never heard my machine make a noise in attract mode. Does anyone else’s?

#1386 39 days ago
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

Looking for some help on my Earthshaker. The top left scoop gets rejected 90% + of all accurate shots to it (accurate as in that shot hit directly in the center of the scoop). It literally hits the metal back part of the scoop and ricochets right back out in the opposite direction. I can feel/see a little bit of a raise in the metal protector at the start of the scoop, but not much. I'm thinking that maybe that is making the ball "jump" just a little and hit off of the back of the scoop a little high or something. That part of the scoop looks like a PITA to replace, so I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas to try first? Anyone else had this problem on a scoop before?
Thanks for any suggestions, links and or help!

mine is slightly raised as well. I get rejected often but I adjusted the gate a bit and that helped.

#1387 39 days ago
Quoted from waymon:

I was going through my menu today and noticed the option for attract sound. I’ve never heard my machine make a noise in attract mode. Does anyone else’s?

ES is like Twilight Zone...when you turn on attract sounds you will only hear it if a game has been played. If you turn on the machine and don't start a game the attract sounds will never play.

#1388 37 days ago

New to the forum! Got a question about the shaker voltage.

I have a problem with the resistor burning out on the high current driver board. Checked voltage, and it's around 50VDC.

I'm also reading about 50VDC from the aux power board post-rectifier, but only about 30VAC pre-rectifier (realizing that this is the 25VDC circuit). Aux board has an unpopulated power resistor R10 whose value is not specified in the schematic. In the schematics, I see a varistor which I believe is supposed to limit the DC to around 47v.

Any clues at to what's going on? There's not much in the circuit, so not a lot of suspects. Varistor maybe?

Thanks!

#1389 36 days ago

So wrapping up a ground up refresh and the shaker motor didn’t work when I got it. I reflowed the board and put in new brushes. It has all new boards so it’s good there. Now it blows the F3 special solenoid fuse although it works fine for several shakes but seems to draw a bit much when pops are firing.

I disconnect the shaker and no problems. Safe to assume the motor draws too much and should be replaced?

#1390 36 days ago

So wrapping up a ground up refresh and the shaker motor didn’t work when I got it. I reflowed the board and put in new brushes. It has all new boards so it’s good there. Now it blows the F3 special solenoid fuse although it works fine for several shakes but seems to draw a bit much when pops are firing.
I disconnect the shaker and no problems. Safe to assume the motor draws too much and should be replaced?

889076C6-9210-4031-B7C5-7458FA8F7A31 (resized).jpeg
Added 35 days ago:

Well, here’s an instance it is just a fuse. We’ll sort of. I checked the HV board again testing diode, resistor and TIP36C. Still fine.

So staring at the new aux power board from Dumbass (BTW, if you haven’t heard of him, check out his stuff! Works great with lots of improvements.) I noticed he silkscreens the different values of certain games that use different values. Of course F3 says should be 5a likely due to shaker. Swapped out the 2.5a for 5a and voila!

#1391 36 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

[quoted image]

Freaking love the chromed out legs, lockbar and rails. Did u buy them that way or get the old parts chromed?

#1392 36 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

Freaking love the chromed out legs, lockbar and rails. Did u buy them that way or get the old parts chromed?

The owner like the chromed out TAF I did for him and wanted them on this one too. The blue and chrome really does pop!

I get my chrome parts which he usually has stock from Chris at Hot Rod Arcade:

https://pinballplating.com/new-parts?category=Side+Rails

#1393 36 days ago
Quoted from DuffysArcade:

ES is like Twilight Zone...when you turn on attract sounds you will only hear it if a game has been played. If you turn on the machine and don't start a game the attract sounds will never play.

I tried a few different ways but never could get the attack sounds to work. Had the machine on for over 12 hours today and it got played a bunch. ‍♂️ I’ll have to research it some. I may have a ROM issue but seems all the sound during gameplay works as it should.

#1394 36 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I disconnect the shaker and no problems. Safe to assume the motor draws too much and should be replaced?

Do you have a new high current driver board too? If it’s the original, check the TIP37C and associated diode on the board.

If that all checks out, then ohm out the motor, but I’d be really surprised if the motor is bad.

#1395 35 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Do you have a new high current driver board too? If it’s the original, check the TIP37C and associated diode on the board.
If that all checks out, then ohm out the motor, but I’d be really surprised if the motor is bad.

Thanks, yes it is good too. While I generally agree, we have motors meg out bad at work for same reasons.

#1396 35 days ago

Anyone ever notice on the documentation in the lamp matrix table there are 4 jet bumpers?

  • Jet Bumper Center (Column 1, Row 8 )
  • Top Jet Bumper (Column 6, Row 1 )
  • Left Jet Bumper (Column 6, Row 2 )
  • Right Jet Bumper (Column 6, Row 3 )
#1397 35 days ago

nope, there's one lamp for each pop, and then the center insert.

#1398 35 days ago

Got a replacement plastic set the other day. This plastic was included and I can’t find it on my game. Any idea where it’s supposed to go? It’s about an inch long

21BC0952-9440-4FBC-A644-19832AC41DEB (resized).jpeg
#1399 35 days ago
Quoted from mozach:

Got a replacement plastic set the other day. This plastic was included and I can’t find it on my game. Any idea where it’s supposed to go? It’s about an inch long
[quoted image]

I don't recall seeing that one in my tear down. Only black plastic I remember was under the spiral ramp between the inlanes, but that one had rounded edges and two screw holes.

#1400 35 days ago
Quoted from roffels:

I don't recall seeing that one in my tear down. Only black plastic I remember was under the spiral ramp between the inlanes, but that one had rounded edges and two screw holes.

Thanks. That other black plastic is included. This one is just a mystery. It’s definitely not in my game. I guess it really doesn’t matter though

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