(Topic ID: 87473)
Linked Games
Earthshaker
Williams, 1989
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Quoted from dmacy:So far the new playfield seems to be decent but the dimpling on the bottom is way out in many places. No big deal but really pay attention to everything you install. You should anyway, but this, or at least this one, is pretty bad.
[quoted image]
I just got mine 6 weeks ago and it was the same. I marked and predrilled every hole and some were way off.
Quoted from joetechbob:How are you guys transferring hole patterns over? Large sheet of wax paper or something?
I have done that before yes with tracing paper but I do it free lance now. I get a better fit for everything and often better than the factory.
Quoted from joetechbob:How are you guys transferring hole patterns over? Large sheet of wax paper or something?
I lined everything up manually. Biggest PIA were the trough switches (but really not that bad), the slingshot switches, and the pop bumper spoon switch brackets. Everything else just falls into place.
Cool. Thanks! I finally took the plunge and ordered a CPR Gold from this latest run. Fingers crossed that the quality is ok.
Have you noticed any defects other than dimples? I've noticed in pics of some of their other playfields that colors were off (Corvette), text/labels were missing (Meteor), etc.
Quoted from dmacy:I noticed some registration off on the back right for the lock and extra ball insert.[quoted image]
Dang. At least it's tucked away.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Rebuilt female J7 to the back box GI and got one string lit, but white/green is still dim. Pulled the interconnect board to replace the male end and it’s been hacked to bypass a fuse or two… :/
[quoted image]
Sure enough, reversing this work, then doing some repairs to the board (that did indeed require jumpers, some leads were thrashed) got me close to 100%. The final mystery was a PF GI string that was out due to a rebuilt connector being totally mis-wired as well. Yeesh, some 90s operator was really outta his/her league! I just returned everything to stock and it’s perfect. I suspect the GI was blowing fuses just heating up or due to some incandescent bulb related issue but it’s gonna have LEDs until the end of time now so…
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Sure enough, reversing this work, then doing some repairs to the board (that did indeed require jumpers, some leads were thrashed) got me close to 100%. The final mystery was a PF GI string that was out due to a rebuilt connector being totally mis-wired as well.
Glad you got it sorted out! A few of the system 11 machines that I own all had previous issues in that area of the backside of the interconnect board (Radical, Banzai, ES). Some of the operators were hacks and would do anything to keep people putting money into the machine.
I have seen some doozys when it comes to burned up GI strings. A few years ago I helped a friend buy his first machine (another Radical) and when we showed up to get it, the entire 6v GI string had been completely rewired to run off of a car battery charger that was living in the bottom of the cabinet. It was a horror show. Everything got removed and the game is back to factory condition now.
817c01d86bf23646c10da365f3d22c9d5744d87b (resized).jpg
Northampton, MA
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Sure enough, reversing this work, then doing some repairs to the board (that did indeed require jumpers, some leads were thrashed) got me close to 100%. The final mystery was a PF GI string that was out due to a rebuilt connector being totally mis-wired as well. Yeesh, some 90s operator was really outta his/her league! I just returned everything to stock and it’s perfect. I suspect the GI was blowing fuses just heating up or due to some incandescent bulb related issue but it’s gonna have LEDs until the end of time now so…
Nice work.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Glad you got it sorted out! A few of the system 11 machines that I own all had previous issues in that area of the backside of the interconnect board (Radical, Banzai, ES). Some of the operators were hacks and would do anything to keep people putting money into the machine.
I have seen some doozys when it comes to burned up GI strings. A few years ago I helped a friend buy his first machine (another Radical) and when we showed up to get it, the entire 6v GI string had been completely rewired to run off of a car battery charger that was living in the bottom of the cabinet. It was a horror show. Everything got removed and the game is back to factory condition now.
[quoted image]
Did you notice the Bad Cats back box wood that was cut for the cabinet stabilizer bar next to the coin box?
Quoted from Jeffreyjonesbsme:Did you notice the Bad Cats back box wood that was cut for the cabinet stabilizer bar next to the coin box?
What!? No way...I never noticed that! I'll have to ask him for a better photo of that area and report back.
Quoted from DuffysArcade:What!? No way...I never noticed that! I'll have to ask him for a better photo of that area and report back.
It is in the picture you posted above. the cross piece is from a Bad Cats cabinet. This was common in those days. they'd use pieces of old or other cabinets in games. I've seen this more in arcade games, but it happened in pinball too.
badcatspiece (resized).png
London
Quoted from DuffysArcade:Glad you got it sorted out! A few of the system 11 machines that I own all had previous issues in that area of the backside of the interconnect board (Radical, Banzai, ES). Some of the operators were hacks and would do anything to keep people putting money into the machine.
I have seen some doozys when it comes to burned up GI strings. A few years ago I helped a friend buy his first machine (another Radical) and when we showed up to get it, the entire 6v GI string had been completely rewired to run off of a car battery charger that was living in the bottom of the cabinet. It was a horror show. Everything got removed and the game is back to factory condition now.
[quoted image]
PURE MADNESS
While re-populating the ES upper playfield I found that the previous owner made their own plastic with a flamingo which was mounted above the scoop. It confused me for a while because I couldn't find a new one in my Marcos plastics kit! Finally realized what is really supposed to go there. 
Does anyone recognize the flamingo and know which game that came from?
20220428_105252 (resized).jpg20220428_105319 (resized).jpgQuoted from DuffysArcade:Does anyone recognize the flamingo and know which game that came from?
I don’t want to admit how long it took for me to find this by sheer pinball detective work. I originally thought it was a “Rad 80s/90s” themed game, like a Caribbean Cruise, Surf n Safari, Hollywood Heat, Radical etc etc… nope. None.
Then on second look, I thought “That flamingo is giving Python vibes.” So I looked for it in Hurricane, Police Force, even Bugs Bunny Birthday Ball. Nope. Not there either.
Then, it hit me. It’s a plastic from Popeye! It was actually kinda fun trying to find it. Here it is in the context of the whole kit (bottom left corner):
1421AC43-F80B-4772-B14B-F50BD0FF910E (resized).jpegQuoted from mbaumle:I don’t want to admit how long it took for me to find this by sheer pinball detective work. I originally thought it was a “Rad 80s/90s” themed game, like a Caribbean Cruise, Surf n Safari, Hollywood Heat, Radical etc etc… nope. None.
Then on second look, I thought “That flamingo is giving Python vibes.” So I looked for it in Hurricane, Police Force, even Bugs Bunny Birthday Ball. Nope. Not there either.
Then, it hit me. It’s a plastic from Popeye! It was actually kinda fun trying to find it. Here it is in the context of the whole kit (bottom left corner):[quoted image]
Well done! I was also thinking an older Gottlieb game. Never occurred to me that it would be Popeye! A+ to you Mr. Holmes!
Chris
Quoted from Andypc:I occasionally get a ball stuck here when trying to lock the ball, which is really frustrating. What adjustments do I need to make to get this to more consistent and follow the channel to complete the lock.[quoted image]
First, you are missing the blue pad that the ball is supposed to hit against.
When mine started getting the ball stuck there, I found that the part that you adjust this point with under the playfield had come loose. Have you checked it?
If that’s ok, I would try adjusting how wide the opening is a little. Mine looks a little wider when it’s open. Adjust the opening one way a little, it it doesn’t help, go the other way a little. It shouldn’t need much of an adjustment though.
Wiener Neustadt
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Hot diggity! It’s here!!! I have to wait for help to get it in the basement
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, game seems to be in very nice condition
Quoted from harig:Wow, game seems to be in very nice condition
From the pics I got it sure is. I haven't unfolded it yet, but attached are some pics I had from the seller 
The cabinet has really good color on it. SOme touchups but I am beyond happy about it.
Quoted from jibmums:And a free quarter!
BONUS!!!!
Chris
IMG_0172 (resized).jpgIMG_0173 (resized).jpgIMG_0174 (resized).jpgIMG_0175 (resized).jpgIMG_0176 (resized).jpgIMG_0177 (resized).jpgIMG_0178 (resized).jpgIMG_0179 (resized).jpgIMG_0180 (resized).jpgQuoted from SilverUnicorn:Hot diggity! It’s here!!! I have to wait for help to get it in the basement
Congrats! Good lookin cab! Impressive if it's the original artwork... It definitely needs a deep shopout, and a new set of plastics... There aren't many plastics in there that aren't broken and/or damaged.
Just joined the club a couple of days ago! Needs a good cleaning and new rubbers, but overall good condition.
I do have a question as it has been years since I played an Earthshaker - In between the bottom flippers it looks like there was a post that had been there, but was removed. (See picture) The gap between the flippers is fairly large. Is there supposed to be a post there?
ES Pinball (resized).jpegpost (resized).jpegQuoted from TheOnlyest:Congrats! Good lookin cab! Impressive if it's the original artwork... It definitely needs a deep shopout, and a new set of plastics... There aren't many plastics in there that aren't broken and/or damaged.
Indeed. That's the fun part for me. Already have the CPR plastics set. Can't wait to dig into this one!
Chris
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:Just joined the club a couple of days ago! Needs a good cleaning and new rubbers, but overall good condition.
I do have a question as it has been years since I played an Earthshaker - In between the bottom flippers it looks like there was a post that had been there, but was removed. (See picture) The gap between the flippers is fairly large. Is there supposed to be a post there? [quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like a nice example for sure!
I believe there should be a post there.
Chris
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Looks like a nice example for sure!
I believe there should be a post there.
Chris
Yup there’s a post there, saw
It earlier today…
Now that the new pf has cured, it was time to get to work. First seven hours went by fast and good fun was had by all 
0B7DA666-18FC-4B54-86D9-C7E0D42F1326 (resized).jpeg4D5A2E40-678A-46E9-9995-C650A3123023 (resized).jpeg4ED010AF-E1B9-4F93-A3C3-2A08A166024F (resized).jpeg4F8EEC37-444A-4CA6-8016-3F1803681AF7 (resized).jpeg571B5F46-4B1E-40A7-B66D-F3F2C2195C6B (resized).jpeg6757F0CE-8962-41E1-90C8-C7F75E5BD4D2 (resized).jpeg80F8A056-83E6-49AC-84FB-9C989F3A4FB3 (resized).jpeg8C49D985-1284-4AF6-9509-4C0E07B1BC45 (resized).jpegEC1CE94C-D82E-4364-82D5-6B7CDC67F63E (resized).jpegQuoted from ClarkGriswold:In between the bottom flippers it looks like there was a post that had been there, but was removed. (See picture) The gap between the flippers is fairly large. Is there supposed to be a post there?
The hole doesn't look centered correctly, but yeah, there's supposed to be a metal mini-post there.
Well, after a playfield swap, all new plastics, and all new ramps...I feel like I've probably spent too much on this game...but it sure looks beautiful IMO. Happy to have Lawlor's #2 machine which will go right next to Banzai Run as soon as I feel like rearranging the arcade.
After the PF swap I was lucky to have basically no issues other than LEDs which needed adjusting in their sockets. I reflowed all headers on the MPU & interconnect board. I'll recap and work through the PS in the coming weeks...but for now it is working fine.
The entire restoration is documented here in case anyone would like to see what was involved:
20220506_210711 (resized).jpg20220506_210700 (resized).jpg20220506_210728 (resized).jpg20220506_210756 (resized).jpg20220506_210621 (resized).jpg20220506_210646 (resized).jpg20220506_210801 (resized).jpg20220502_104727 (resized).jpgGot it all set up thanks to help from 
EagleTG
IMG_6237 (resized).jpgIMG_6238 (resized).jpgIMG_6239 (resized).jpgIMG_6240 (resized).jpgIMG_6241 (resized).jpgIMG_6242 (resized).jpgIMG_6243 (resized).jpgIMG_6245 (resized).jpgQuoted from mozach:Does anyone have the diagram showing the rubber locations? I see the list in the manual, but not where they go.
EarthShakerRingLocation.pdfSo I was playing my new (to me) Earthshaker last night. Everything seems to be working well EXCEPT for the fault assembly.
The mechanism separates but then immediately pops back. SO basically California clicks left, then returns immediately and you can't lock a ball via the fault if that makes sense.
Anything simple to look for here?
Chris
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:The mechanism separates but then immediately pops back. SO basically California clicks left, then returns immediately and you can't lock a ball via the fault if that makes sense.
Anything simple to look for here?
Only if the spring fell off the fault assembly. Usually it's the little cam piece that moves back and forth (it's the same as the fireplug on fire IIRC, or at least similar). These wear.
The biggest issue is where it is on the ES playfield.... all the way all the top, way down in the cab. Everything down there is a real PITA to work on.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:So I was playing my new (to me) Earthshaker last night. Everything seems to be working well EXCEPT for the fault assembly.
The mechanism separates but then immediately pops back. SO basically California clicks left, then returns immediately and you can't lock a ball via the fault if that makes sense.
Anything simple to look for here?
Chris
slochar is dead on about what is wrong and the PITA to work on. Would be easier to unsolder the coil and unscrew mech and switch off and go through it. I just did one and it needed welded but was working. Just sloppy as the pivot pin was loose. Worth rebuilding and cleaning out any dried out grease in it. The 3 I’ve worked on had it. I use a light application of Super Lube in that cam.
Pics to give you an idea what to look for.
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Quoted from slochar:Everything down there is a real PITA to work on.
I'm new to the club and foolishly thought I could take off the upper back left (skillshot) ramp without removing the playfield. I wanted to clean back there and swap out GI bulbs while awaiting a new rubber kit for the game. I quickly realized that it doesn't seem possible to do a shop out of the back of the playfield without actually pulling the playfield. Anyone out there ever do it without removing the playfield?
Also curious if anyone has any advise on what to use to place the playfield on after it is removed? I do not have a playfield "rotisserie" or much space for one, so looking for ideas.
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:I'm new to the club and foolishly thought I could take off the upper back left (skillshot) ramp without removing the playfield. I wanted to clean back there and swap out GI bulbs while awaiting a new rubber kit for the game. I quickly realized that it doesn't seem possible to do a shop out of the back of the playfield without actually pulling the playfield. Anyone out there ever do it without removing the playfield?
Also curious if anyone has any advise on what to use to place the playfield on after it is removed? I do not have a playfield "rotisserie" or much space for one, so looking for ideas.
I was successful at clamping my PF onto a table while it was sitting on its side. I have a rotisserie but I couldn't install the rear panel and some parts at the back while it was attached to it. Sitting the PF on its side and having someone hold it while you secure it with a few straps or clamps will work in a pinch...at least to do a small amount of work.
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:I'm new to the club and foolishly thought I could take off the upper back left (skillshot) ramp without removing the playfield. I wanted to clean back there and swap out GI bulbs while awaiting a new rubber kit for the game. I quickly realized that it doesn't seem possible to do a shop out of the back of the playfield without actually pulling the playfield. Anyone out there ever do it without removing the playfield?
Also curious if anyone has any advise on what to use to place the playfield on after it is removed? I do not have a playfield "rotisserie" or much space for one, so looking for ideas.
Its hard to explain in words, but...
Tilt the pf all the way up, lift the pf pivot brackets up and off the pivot bolts, move the pf slightly forward and rest the pivot bolts on the back of the pivot brackets, lower the pf carefully back down. The pf is now resting on the pivot bolts, you can VERY SLOWLY and carefully slide the pf forward several inches to access the bits you're wanting... Don't force it, there may be under-pf bits that hit the pivot brackets and stop it from sliding further... That's as far as you go!
This can be much easier with 2 people, one on each side to lift the pf off and back onto the pivot bolts. When I have to do this by myself (99% of the time), I have to stand inside the cab to do it... Its actually very quick and easy. This method is especially useful if you have to work on your Diner coffee cup!!
-Have the game turned OFF before doing this, and dont turn on power until the pf is back in its proper position.
-Dont slide the pf farther forward than needed, you risk the pf moving past the pivot bolts... This will cause your pf to dump into the cab, back first, significant damage will result!!
-The front of the pf will end up positioned about where the flipper coils will be over the lockbar receiver. roll a large towel and put it between to avoid damage to under-pf bits.
To return the pf to its proper position, repeat steps above in exact reverse!
You're probably feeling more confused than helped, but I tried....
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:I'm new to the club and foolishly thought I could take off the upper back left (skillshot) ramp without removing the playfield. I wanted to clean back there and swap out GI bulbs while awaiting a new rubber kit for the game. I quickly realized that it doesn't seem possible to do a shop out of the back of the playfield without actually pulling the playfield. Anyone out there ever do it without removing the playfield?
Also curious if anyone has any advise on what to use to place the playfield on after it is removed? I do not have a playfield "rotisserie" or much space for one, so looking for ideas.
I don't recommend doing this, but i took the rear legs off my game and just had my playfield leaning up against a wall. For months. But sometimes I'd wakeup at night worrying the whole thing would crash. Thankfully that never happened.
Quoted from rmillman:Finally putting boards back into the game after multiple years. Of course, I didn't take pictures. Can someone please take pictures of the backbox showing which connectors go to each board?
Thanks
This may be overkill, but you can never have enough photos.
100_3883 (resized).JPG100_3884 (resized).JPG100_3885 (resized).JPG100_3886 (resized).JPG100_3887 (resized).JPG100_3888 (resized).JPG100_3890 (resized).JPG100_3894 (resized).JPG100_3895 (resized).JPG100_3896 (resized).JPG100_3897 (resized).JPG100_3902 (resized).JPG100_3903 (resized).JPG
100_3939 (resized).JPG100_3943 (resized).JPG100_3940 (resized).JPG100_3944 (resized).JPG100_3938 (resized).JPG100_3937 (resized).JPG100_3941 (resized).JPG100_3942 (resized).JPGQuoted from roffels:I don't recommend doing this, but i took the rear legs off my game and just had my playfield leaning up against a wall. For months. But sometimes I'd wakeup at night worrying the whole thing would crash. Thankfully that never happened.
Yeah... That sounds WAY easier than what me (and most other techs) do... 
For the record, I learned that trick at Williams factory tech certification training, at Williams HQ in Chicago... But what do they know...
This practice inspired the pf slides that were finally developed and released in 1992, I believe Getaway was the first.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:The front of the pf will end up positioned about where the flipper coils will be over the lockbar receiver. roll a large towel and put it between to avoid damage to under-pf bits.
That's what I thought the sling brackets were for 
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